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Author Topic: Mwar's '73 196  (Read 2265 times)

March 16, 2020, 05:46:37 AM
Reply #15

RickK

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2020, 05:46:37 AM »
If you don't see delamination where the stringer bottoms meet the hull I would be very gentle with the stringers.  Personally I would cut the top of the stringers off for 3 or 4 feet and then leave a "strap" across the stringer about 34" wide. Then cut 3-4' out and leave another  "strap".  This will give you access to get the foam out but yet keep the shape of the stringers intact so when you re-foam they will not deform. Plus they'll be easy to glass over.  If you don't have any plans for the area where the engine mounts are I'd leave it in.  One thing I would plan is adding a partial (not full depth) bulkhead across the stringers in that area to support the decking.
Are you planning on recoring the transom? If so, you'll be cutting about the last 18" of the stringers out to give you access.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 16, 2020, 06:14:09 AM
Reply #16

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2020, 06:14:09 AM »
Yeah definitely doing a new transom, that’s why I was thinking the engine mount needs to be removed all together. Plus I’m thinking with thru hulls, bilge and livewell pumps, it’ll be crowded back there. Seems to be a likely spot for them.
The only delam I saw was on top of the stringer aft where it slopes for floor trough, but that’s going to be cutout for transom repair. So should I just cut the tops off with all the putty and remaining floor leaving 3-4” strips every so often? OR “gently”  grind everything off then cut top?
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 16, 2020, 09:53:59 AM
Reply #17

RickK

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2020, 09:53:59 AM »
Grind to the top of the stringers and hen start cutting.
One of our members did a comparison of grinding tools here https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15284.msg149476#msg149476
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 22, 2020, 04:08:10 PM
Reply #18

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #18 on: March 22, 2020, 04:08:10 PM »
Got a few hrs in this weekend. Fuel tank is out and stringers are almost ground flat, about 6 more feet. Next will be removing the casting deck. Seems to be going pretty quick so far, nothing too bad.
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 23, 2020, 11:20:29 AM
Reply #19

McAllgeyver

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #19 on: March 23, 2020, 11:20:29 AM »
Oh yeah!  Looks good.  Ready to cut tops off and chisel out foam! 
Sean A.

1975 Banana River Skiff - rebuilt - SOLD
1973 19-6 Osprey - rebuilt

March 23, 2020, 02:05:52 PM
Reply #20

RickK

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #20 on: March 23, 2020, 02:05:52 PM »
Everything looks in such great shape, it's a shame you have to cut into it.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 23, 2020, 06:53:08 PM
Reply #21

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #21 on: March 23, 2020, 06:53:08 PM »
There’s a few spots of question. The center keel/stringer is spongy along the sides, like its cored or delaminated. Then there’s some weird almost chase like piece of roven inside the starboard stringer. I’ll download some pics after dinner.

Sean, how’d your project turn out? I’ve been reading all the 196 rebuilds and yours got my attention, but then died,
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 23, 2020, 07:58:28 PM
Reply #22

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #22 on: March 23, 2020, 07:58:28 PM »
 This is the piece of roven inside the stringer, I’m figuring it’ll be removed

It only goes forward to the fuel line recess
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 23, 2020, 08:04:11 PM
Reply #23

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #23 on: March 23, 2020, 08:04:11 PM »
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 28, 2020, 09:00:04 PM
Reply #24

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #24 on: March 28, 2020, 09:00:04 PM »
Got to grinding out the center stringer today, well at least the balsa core along the sides. Here’s my question, does this core get replaced or will a few New layers of 1708 suffice?
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 28, 2020, 10:38:34 PM
Reply #25

msteelman

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #25 on: March 28, 2020, 10:38:34 PM »
when I did redid my 222 I just added 2 layers of 1708, didn't want to have to worry about boat getting water logged

March 29, 2020, 07:57:04 AM
Reply #26

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2020, 07:57:04 AM »
That was my thought, just lay a few extra layers of glass there. Can’t believe anyone ever thought Balsa core was 👍
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 29, 2020, 09:31:45 AM
Reply #27

mshugg

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #27 on: March 29, 2020, 09:31:45 AM »
Are you sure the center stringer core isn’t rotten plywood or softwood?  It would have been highly unlikely and more  expensive for a AS to use balsa there.

March 29, 2020, 09:59:32 AM
Reply #28

Mwar410

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2020, 09:59:32 AM »
The center stringer is probably softwood, only ground a small area of it so not sure what it is. But the balsa core is a 6” strip on either side of the stringer, possibly to give the keel more strength? But with the shotty layer of Roven, not sure how much strength it would’ve given. 
1978 "170" 91' Yamaha 90hp
1973 “196” (just getting started)
Mike

March 30, 2020, 09:22:14 AM
Reply #29

McAllgeyver

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Re: Mwar's 196
« Reply #29 on: March 30, 2020, 09:22:14 AM »
Thought my 19-6 center stringer was wood. However, With the relatively flat bottom, 12 deg, these hulls need a good center stringer. I started grinding out the center stringer from the transom fwd until it was clean and rot free which ended up to be 4 feet. Shaped and glued down a 4 foot x 1"wide x 1.5"tall piece of Hairex foam to fort of mimic the original stringer shape and then stacked some carbon and e-glass along the ENTIRE center stringer.  Lamination schedule was 6 carbon uni, one biax, 9 uni, one biax, 6 uni, two triax. The carbon unidirectional was 2" wide, the biax was +-45 deg 6" wide, and the two triax were +45/-45/90 and 8" wide and the layers were about 17 feet long. Needless to say, I feel comfortable about the strength of the keel now. :)
Sean A.

1975 Banana River Skiff - rebuilt - SOLD
1973 19-6 Osprey - rebuilt

 

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