Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 196 Rebuilds => Topic started by: McAllgeyver on June 11, 2017, 07:02:47 PM
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So I've been working slowly on this for a while and now am going to kick it in high gear and thought I would share.
The past two years this is what I've done.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image352.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12150&title=2773-19-6-about-to-bring-it-home&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image369.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12485&title=ready-to-demo&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image368.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=12484&title=1973-19-6-restore&cat=500)
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Lots more pics to come
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image69.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13647&title=water-line&cat=500)
Transom had about an 1-1/2" flex with the F115 on it. And it moved when I would lift up on the lower unit.
Removed all the black rotten wood. Probably one of the harder things Ive had to do so far. Fit two 3/4" Okoume sheets and vacuumed bagged them in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image4.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13102&title=transom-skin&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image3.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13101&title=image3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image5.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13114&title=vacuum-bagged-transom&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image6.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13115&title=image6&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image7.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13116&title=image7&cat=500)
Came out real nice. Then put the glass and vacuum bagged that.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image9.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13155&title=image9&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image10.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13187&title=image10&cat=500)
Then bagged the Carbon uni @ 90 on top. Super strong.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image11.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13188&title=image11&cat=500)
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The original drain hole was not quite centered. I think the arch is just a sharpie marker? Yes two layer of triax @ 0 inside and two outside. 6 layers carbon on top edge.
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Nice work!!
Before you go much farther, realize that you have just changed the lowest point in the boat. It used to be the drain plug in the back of the boat. Now you've moved it 12" forward - the lams you added changed that.
I think you can salvage it by drilling a long low angled hole from the original drain hole so that the lowest part of the hole in front of the transom is the low point of the boat.
May seem weird that I say this but on my rebuild my new lowest point became 12" in front of the finished transom so that now I can not drain all the water from my bilge. :-( Here is an explanation:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
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I understand the idea. Unfortunately it is too late. :021: I've already used bilge coat on the interior. There might be some out there but I really don't know of any boat that drains every bit of water that's inside the bilge. I did try my best to cut the drain hole as low as possible. I already backfilled a large hole and cut the smaller drain hole inside of that and it sits pretty darn low.
Thanks
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So I did the stringers next. Cut the tops off, chunked out the foam. Removed and replaced the center stringer. Removed what looked like an optional inboard engine mounting support system. Removed the wood coring on the inside walls of the stringer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image8.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13152&title=image8&cat=500)
Replaced the center stringer with Harex, six carbon uni @0, one Weft triax @0, 6 carbon uni, one Weft triax @0
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image12.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13205&title=image12&cat=500)
Added small ramp up to transom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image14.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13209&title=image14&cat=500)
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Then the port and starboard stringers. Cut off the tops, trimmed off all the bad parts and sanded down the inside and where the old foam that didn't chunk up easy. There was for sure plywood along the interior walls of the stringers. It was not bonded real well. Needless to say I removed all the plywood from the stringers and replaced the walls with 1" Airex c7075. Glued and glassed that in. I left the core a little tall cause I'm raising the floor an inch or two. The extra height also allowed for more repeated attempts to get the stringers flat and level. :embar:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0074.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15955&title=stringers3&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_00871.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15956&title=stringers4&cat=500)
Replaced the original bulkhead too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0039.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15960&title=stringer-glass3&cat=500)
Mix up some two part 2lb, i think, foam and poured it in. This stuff is crazy and made me :twirl1: out with the fumes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0102.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15957&title=stringers5&cat=500)
One side flushed off using a very long sawzall blade.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_00231.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15959&title=stringers6&cat=500)
Got it all flat and level, then glued down the top using some heavy landscape pavers. Used 3/4" Airex again.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_00412.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15953&title=stringers1&cat=500)
Then rounded the edges over and laid some glass down. Went pretty smooth.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0077.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15962&title=stringer-glass4&cat=500)
Added 5 gas tank supports. Going to use the Pascoe method for glueing the tank down.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_00421.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15961&title=gas-tank-supports&cat=500)
Its nice to see things slowly take shape.
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Looks good. :thumleft:
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Looks solidly constructed and well engineered.
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Your work looks great. (Slowly taking shape) haha
Looks like you are flying.
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Thank guys! It looks like i'm flying but, I started this project two years ago and just haven't posted any of the pics till now. The boat is not done but is probably few months till completion. I am slowly adding some pics each day until I am all caught up.
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Done with the hull for the time being. Onto the front casting deck. I scrapped the original casting deck and thought of a way to get a few more inches out the hatch openings.
Here are my recessed gutter plugs for the casting deck. Im going to make the dec just as long as the original but raise it 2 inches. The plug material is sanded down 2"x3"x8ft(actually is 1.5x2.5). It was hard to get enough pieces of good wood that were straight with minimal blemishes. I ripped them down to measure 1.5"x2" and filled in any knots or blemishes with putty. Cut them to the right size and screwed them together. Filled in the seams with putty and sanded smooth. Ran a router to round the corners over and then clear taped it completely. Resin, at least epoxy, releases from the clear tape, so it should be relatively easy to remove after glassed over. Hot glued down the wood plug to the table. Put a few coats of liquid mold release on the table and used modeling clay in the corners for a small radius.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3333.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14539&title=casting-deck&cat=500)
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So I was up against the clock here. I was lucky to have a helping hand during this but forgot to take pics during the glassing. Schedule was 6 oz, Biax, triax, 3/4" Airex, triax, peelpy, bleeder, breather, and vacuum bag. All in one shot. Came out great.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3337.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14540&title=casting-deck-2&cat=500)
After it cured I popped it off and started to pry out the wood gutters. Some were easier than others but all in all it was better than I expected.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_33751.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14541&title=casting-deck-3&cat=500)
You can see the hinge plug I made out of rubber bathroom floor kick material in the pic above. I have already removed them in this pic.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_3380.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14542&title=hatch-gutters&cat=500)
All the gutter plugs and hinge plugs removed. Still have to trim it up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_33811.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14543&title=casting-deck-4&cat=500)
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Very nice. I need to do more vacuum bagging to get better at it. I bought the gear to do my deck and haven't done anything else since.
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Next was the floor. Its about the same layup as the casting deck: Schedule was 6 oz, Biax, triax, 3/4" Airex, and some Okume wood inlay where I thought stuff would bolt to, triax, peelpy, bleeder, breather, and vacuum bag. All in one shot as well. Came out great also. Sorry for no before glass and during glass pictures. This pic is after part cured, and bagged pulled off. Still upside down and not released from table.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4304.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14895&title=floor-built&cat=500)
This pic shows the floor released from table and flipped over. Just like the casting deck gutters, I used 2"x3" wood for the floor hatch gutters. I was difficult determining where exactly the six hatches went in relation to the stringers and console and sides of boat. I think it took a freakin week just make a decision where I wanted them . And then to get them straight and even with one another and glued down... :a0002:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_4305.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14898&title=19-6-floor&cat=500)
Removed the wood gutter plugs, the rubber hinge recess plugs, and the bilge sump foam plug. Trimmed up the hatch openings and fit the floor first and then the casting deck. Oh yeah, I trashed the liner walls cause it just was extra weight and realized I will be glassing up the sides and that will need fairing putty. So my initial idea of using the liner sides to help with less fairing didn't seem to pan out in my head.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_00681.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15210&title=test-fit&cat=500)
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Epic!
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that is a heap of Airex. what supplier did you get it from? Did you buy it in bulk?
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Very clean work - sweet!!
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I am working on my boat in a shop in Melbourne, Fl. They do buy it in bulk, but not sure of their distributer.
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Made a huge fish box for the center hatch in the casting deck. This will support the casting deck between the hatches. I think the box around 54" long, 20" wide, 24" deep in back and about 10" deep in front. Hopefully some Tuna, Cobia, and Wahoo can fit. and some ice and beer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0053.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15146&title=fish-box&cat=500)
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I am working on my boat in a shop in Melbourne, Fl. They do buy it in bulk, but not sure of their distributer.
Do you think they would sell a few sheets??
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All I can do is ask:)
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Fish box glued and glassed to hull. Casting deck fit to lay on top. Added sump box to transom and will double as support. Right now fish box drain is piped to rear bilge. Not sure if I really want a through hull for it. Plan to just drain it while on trailer after a fishing trip with bilge drain open too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0937.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15716&title=bilge-ready-for-a-coat-it-paint&cat=500)
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I can say I do enjoy my 170's fish box draining outside the boat. I can imagine the fish smell going to a bilge, getting hot and the residue on a summer day would get funky
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Youre right. It would smell in bilge. I'm trying to find a way to drain out of transom with a seacock. I plan to plug the fish box from the inside when ice and fish are in there. I just really wanted huge box. I can actually put my boat cooler inside if it's not a long trip.
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Worked on a mini splash well design. Built a mold out of the usual, 3/4'" melamine. Then laid glass, core, glass, and vacuumed it down on the table. Came out good. Lamed up a simple splash well floor and got to fitting the two with the hull. When I visit the bahamas, and see all the Albury's and their functional splash well,...I had to have one. It seems to be a give and take however, with taking up minimal space in back but allowing for some water to come over the back but drain right back out quickly. The small well and low transom still keeps the boat's ability for people to enter and exit the water easily.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image159.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14915&title=floor&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image160.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14916&title=splash-well&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_0018.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15991&title=splash-well&cat=500)
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Looks good Sean! How easy will a loose fish (or anything for that matter) be to get from under there?
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I just picked up a 19-6 from your area with plans to rebuild. Love what you did here.
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Ha! A loose fish, dropped pliers, hooks, what ever will be able to be pluck out from under there somewhat easily once on the knees and bent over.
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Thanks. I hope the 19-6's are good boats in the water. I have never been out in one but I have heard mostly good things.
Are you going to work on it around the melbourne area? or did you take it back home where ever it may be?
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I hauled it back up to Jacksonville where it will start a new life on the St Johns River. Maybe a few times a year outside Mayport
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Hey Sean, I'm in Brevard (Titusville) too and I just picked up a 1987 Osprey 200 that I'm in the process of changing the floor out. This post is helping me along, thanks for the great detail and you're doing amazing work!
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Glad to hear. These hot days ( and nights) are wonderful!!! :thumbdown: Just kidding. It's been slow for me but work about once a week on it.
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It’s been a year! Well boats upside down. Spayed a guide coat on to see what’s going on , filled many nicks and scratches and put SlickSand primer on. Half is sanded and is coming out nicely.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/C0D58CCE-5D93-4EB4-A15D-2B11CF7F54D7.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17425&title=c0d58cce-5d93-4eb4-a15d-2b11cf7f54d7&cat=500)
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/5473DA45-9479-4F6B-AE7A-6EF02BADA24B.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17424&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/DE360647-B990-4478-8019-863F338F9429.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17426&title=de360647-b990-4478-8019-863f338f9429&cat=500)
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Good to see you back at it - it's amazing how everything can get in the way of a rebuild.
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Yep. Life and death sure does that. The highs and lows. The crests and troughs.
Thanks
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Just came across this build. Awesome work so far! I'll be following along.
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Thanks TBMike. Never thought it would take this long but didn’t know then how involved I would make it. Should be nice when done!!
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Prepped the hull for Dark Blue Awlcraft2000.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CEAEB7ED-82F9-4CE2-9E20-00727E57275F.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18223&title=ceaeb7ed-82f9-4ce2-9e20-00727e57275f&cat=500)
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One huge tarp and two beers later...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/5D8190D7-41E2-4936-AEE0-EE3AD42031CB.png) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18220&title=5d8190d7-41e2-4936-aee0-ee3ad42031cb&cat=500)
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Taped off the dark blue to make a stripe or what not and painted the sides Stark White awlcraft2000 last night!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/690972B3-9C4F-4FD8-8173-7BB7D64D2A7A.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18221&title=690972b3-9c4f-4fd8-8173-7bb7d64d2a7a&cat=500)
Next is to magically flip over and paint inside. Whew, one more step completed.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/7778BF15-1080-45E2-806F-050D2A3A8922.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18222&title=7778bf15-1080-45e2-806f-050d2a3a8922&cat=500)
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Paint looks great. Nice colors.
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A SWEET job!! Congrats man, she looks great.
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Thanks guys. About time I finished that step!
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:great02:
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Amazing paint job!
Great work! :thumleft:
//Lars
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This is some awesome work!! Great Job. Looking forward to seeing it progress further. :))
Thanks for sharing!
Ulysses
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Thanks so much. Life’s made this dream project take sooo long. But family is still young and will be ready to enjoy boating and fishing real soon. Just have primer left to sand inside then... rig it!!! Oh and get a motor. 👍
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Still at it. Seems like it’s taking a lifetime! Oh well I ended up spraying the awlcraft 2000 smooth surfaces and the taping off and rolling the nonskid. Got the wife to help roll on nonskid and she seems more onboard now Than ever before.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/FC94BE58-B784-4F76-A28C-29AAF115BCD9.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21504&title=front-deck&cat=500)
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Looks like you did a great job (and so did she).
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You have almost the same dream I have got my 1972 196. I have some questions.. my first one being is how did you find your water line? i plan on painting almost the same as you.
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That's almost too pretty to get fish blood on. :thumleft:
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Oh no. Fish blood I welcome. Thanks too.
Houston S, I don’t know the where the new water line is going to be. I picked the boot stripe thing with a guess, but really just followed the chine. We will see where she sits soon. Thanks
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Merc 150. Well hung to say the least. :72:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/6E11298B-78F0-42AA-ACA1-57DCE3D245B9.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22159&title=motor-hung&cat=500)
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She'll run great - congrats.
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:great02:
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Very Nice! Another 19’6 saved and looking great! Going to last another 48 years! Congrats
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Steering lines in and purged. Had to learn the hard way there are two different sea star helm plugs. One that’s vented and one not vented. I was missing a rear plug on my used baystar steering helm. I guess the guy had used the helm as a second station. Anyhow, I though I could just pick up another helm vent plug as it fit in the rear of the help pump. Well wouldn’t you know the vent plug is just that a vented plug. Not a plug for the vent. And so it was slowly leaking when a would turn the motor. Finally found the right non vented plug and repurged the system and was then good to go.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/7CD5ACF0-42B7-4689-BF01-D02FE7ACBFE1.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22209&title=7cd5acf0-42b7-4689-bf01-d02fe7acbfe1&cat=500)
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Next were the 12x12 Bennett bolt tabs. Pretty easy install but would recommend two people as it was hard getting the tab marked out it in the recommended positions. About 1/4” above surface. Lots of screws in transom and a 3m. Then a small hole for each actuator in transom for wire to pass through.
Run cable to console and connect to trim switch There is a transducer cable next to tab that I installed temporary and so I need to redo it permanently with a hole in transom with clamshell I think is the way I’m heading.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/5C8457BC-EC38-460E-ACB6-9E4007FB0F8D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22208&title=5c8457bc-ec38-460e-acb6-9e4007fb0f8d&cat=500)
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Taco Nav lights installed. Yet more holes in boat! :?: fixed sooo many holes just to put more in.
Oh well.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/E10E1E60-5869-4D71-B2C7-CDB322E5ABE2.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22220&title=e10e1e60-5869-4d71-b2c7-cdb322e5abe2&cat=500)
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After five million screws, bolts, washers, nuts and hinges it seemed like I was done with hatches, cleats, gas fill, Bimini hardware, and grab bar.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/9E58737F-5082-4362-98EC-C2E76D24F74D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22219&title=9e58737f-5082-4362-98ec-c2e76d24f74d&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2CBF0E7F-4F1D-49AF-91EF-85748EF4E4FE.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22217&title=2cbf0e7f-4f1d-49af-91ef-85748ef4e4fe&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/61C58857-C682-4E07-B790-0780C755DC75.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22214&title=61c58857-c682-4e07-b790-0780c755dc75&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/831121F4-21F4-48E0-823A-A443DBBDAA70.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22215&title=831121f4-21f4-48e0-823a-a443dbbdaa70&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/9AF4775A-67C2-47FE-A89D-EB5414177A08.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22216&title=9af4775a-67c2-47fe-a89d-eb5414177a08&cat=500)
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Sure looks nice - great job!!
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Just when you thought you were done spending money. 🤑 Getting close
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It's only money. You can't eat it.
Looks good! :great02:
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I like that anchor locker, any more info on that? I thought I’d have to make the bow area on the cap larger but that looks like you made it fit.
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Looking fantastic!
Lars
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Thanks guys. Means a lot coming from an awesome group of guys we have here!
As far as the abhor locker, it’s awesome. But I really had to plan it out. A standard 12 or 13 lbs Danforth was the size I wanted for my 196 yet wouldn’t fit with the curve of the ow without a notch in the deckhand bulkhead.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/D7FB0DC5-E509-4E5F-B5D3-A6EEBBC2EB4E.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22248&title=anchor-locker&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/27BB9AA0-8550-495E-83AB-5D93646CA98B.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22244&title=anchor-locker&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/6B9883A5-05E6-4F81-B427-9DE0C0C3261A.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22245&title=anchor-locker&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/80380566-3D7D-40A9-9189-C4D5A40C964F.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22246&title=anchor-locker&cat=500)
Made a mold for the anchor stock to rest in that as glued to the underside of the deck.
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:coolth:
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That looks pretty tight. I’m not planning on putting the casting deck back in, so I might have a little more room to work with. Thanks for the pics.
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Broke the in boat in down in the key at Bahia Honda. Runs great. Love it. Floats good. Just nice all around. Few things to finish wiring up but mostly complete.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/37503B26-87BD-41F2-8A1E-BACE1EBEFE6F.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22250&title=1st-dunked&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/4783489A-B653-4221-A939-0CFD86B2A39D.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22251&title=maiden-voyage&cat=500)
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Looks good. :thumleft: Looks pretty shallow, hard to tell if it's sitting on the engine skeg or not, so I don't know if it is fully floating. The 196 is the perfect size boat IMO.
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It looks great. Congrats on getting it wet!
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Just the right size for the Keys.
Congrats!
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That’s awesome!! I have fond memories of camping at Bahia Honda as a kid each summer with the family. Haven’t been there in over a decade. Do they still have the marina area by the waterfront spots where you can keep your boat while you camp and stand overnight?
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Yes! About 6 boats slips maybe. It’s a cool protected area. Will be making more memories down there for sure!
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I know this project has been going on for a while but in the first pictures of the thread the front of the front fish box had a hole cut into it. Do you remember if this hole gave easy direct access to the back of the bow eye? My 1972 196 bow eye recently snapped on one leg of the eye and needs to be replaced. I saw a thread about someone putting cutting a hole in that same spot and installing a pie plate to access the back of the eye but this thread is more active and shows a similar setup.
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It sure does,go for it. Center your hole too if you want on that front vertical wall of the fish box and the bow eye is right there. Sorry I do not have a pic. My 72 19’6 is all wrapped up for winter. It!s colder than a witches (you know what) up North today! Cheers T
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Thanks Fish Head. Yep. Like he said, it has a square hole with no cover to access the bow eye. I would have cut a circular hole out that would of course fit a pie plate access if I had done that.
Also, when redoing my bow eye, I had to chisel/cut /grind out the old wood “v” backing plate if you will, as it was totally rotted. That might have been a reason the eye broke if water soaked wood rusted out the legs of the eye.
I added quite a few layers of glass in the area to strengthen it and did not replace the wood.
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Thanks for the replies. Hopefully that backing wood is not rotten; my bow eye actually broke on the outside of the boat right at the beginning of the threads where there is an external nut and plate. Once hunting season is over and the boat is out of the water I will start on some repair and changes. Repair the bow eye and install a smaller center console. McAllgeyver I saw that your build had an open hatch for the bilge. I am thinking about installing a pie plate in the rear to gain access to the bilge area as well.
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Yep. Bilge access never hurts!
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So I made a transducer spray deflector this holiday weekend. Of course I forgot to take pictures as I went going but I’ll give you guys the gist.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/38DD124B-B394-42D1-B211-39B94582559F.png) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22423&title=spray-deflector&cat=500)
Used This that I got from Lowe’s. Got my grinder and cut to shape. Filed the sharp edges. Cut a small 1/4” slice down the back of it for the transducer cable to slide through. Found a grommet that was thick and fit the transducer cable.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/A5AF4FDE-74B5-42BA-B0FF-ED3746B2897E.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22424&title=spray-deflector&cat=500)
Forgot to mention I added a DIY transom saver. I did screw it into the transom with 5200. After that was dry I screwed in the transducer with the spray shield behind it.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/014C838E-73CB-41CE-867C-E175ED9DD8AE.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22422&title=spray-deflector&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/268B8F33-F724-40DA-965C-675A4D589A5A.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=22417&title=transducer-spray-shield&cat=500)
It worked pretty good. I do need to move my transducer down just a little bit so it reads the bottom better at speed. Worked great. We’ll see how long the stainless lasts!
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Hey all. I know this is an older thread but seems like the best thread to post on for this issue. I have a 1972 196 that has a small soft area where the deck meets the transom. I tried posting pictures but they were all too large. . My question is since there is nothing permanently supporting it underneath in the bilge area. If I cut that section out and replace it what is the best way to support the new section. I plan on glassing it into the section of deck that is solid and the transom, which is solid. Will that be enough support once the glass is set up and how should I support in in the mean time while the glass is setting up? I’ve checked all the usual places, google and YouTube, but can only find full deck replacements or areas supported from below. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Thinking about your soft spot. One suggestion I thought you could do would be maybe remove the top layer of glass. Grind out the core material, which might be three-quarter inch plywood. Try to leave the inside layer of glass. That will be your “table” where you’d add some new glass. Then fit in some foam core and glue down. After dry, sand down flush with surrounding area and glass a few layers on top.
The key will be to try and not grind through the bottom layer of glass when grinding out the wood.
Hope it helps and you’ve got a great boat i our hands.