Yet another drain tube project..

[dburr]

I just had one of the deck drain tubes come out with startling ease, the outboard end correded off...  I was surprised to see it was 1 1/4 copper not marine brass/bronze.  I thought that  brass was OEM..

Is there any info/knowledge about whether this is original?

It would be easy to replace with 1 1/4 copper I have that in the shop but have not figured out yet how likly it is to last.  If one needs to be replaced, they all will get replaced. This job I a only want to do once.. On a positive note, the transom is dry at the holes...

Any input is appreciated  

[dirtwheelsfl]

lets see the wakeboard!

[wingtime]

Are you talking about the drain tube going thru the transom?   If so I would think it would have to be some sort of a brass... probably a soft brass so it can be pressed in place....  of course who knows if a PO replaced it.

[dburr]

Sorry, the wakeboard has taken the back burner, I like the Skurfer more instead .. The nephew has gone the way of most 17yo guys and is chasing GIRLs so I am in no hurry.. If I find an old picture I'll put it up

Wing (Bruce?) the copper is really workable and will flare nicely, it came from the two deck drains that are above the waterline in the stern. (maybe that says it right there...ABOVE the waterline...)  I am just worried about galvanic corrosion cause there is stainless, aluminum and heaven knows what else to make a battery.. Still looking into it, I was curious to know if the "brain trust" had previous knowledge

[kraw2]

Copper will work fine. I would use type "K" or "L" at the least. Type M is too thin.

[seabob4]

A little trick I learned many moons ago at Wellcraft as to how to get the proper length of the tube so it flares nicely on each end without cracking the rollover.

Insert the length of tube into the hole, wedge it in place with a thin shim so it doesn't move, then lay a pencil on it's side and scribe a line around the tube, both ends.  Cut on these lines, the tube will flare damn near about perfectly...

Thanks to my good friend Antonio Fernandez, best engine man ever!!  

[kraw2]

Thanks Bob,

Good tip to know..!

[seabob4]

Forgot, de-burr before flaring...

[dburr]

Checked with a local heating man who works with pipe for a living.. He was surprised that brass was used because he thought it was to hard/brittle to flare. Copper it will be and just because, I am going to anneal before I put it in.  Good tip too about the pencil line, that and a slight radius on the glass and a little 4200 should make for a good seal..

Thanks to all!  

[saltfly]

Hey Bob where are you guys getting your flaring tool? I was going to make one before I retired. But as usual I never got around to it.

[seabob4]

Hey Bob where are you guys getting your flaring tool? I was going to make one before I retired. But as usual I never got around to it.

Good question Walt, I haven't installed a brass splashwell scupper since my days at Wellcraft, we had our own tool there.  I would think a plumbing supply shop would be a good place to start...

[dburr]

The plan is to drill a practice hole in scrap and tryout this tool:

 http://www.reel-time.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61261

If it works I am in business, if not then it's down to the local shop that did my whaler to arrange to "borrow" the tool..

[saltfly]

Thanks Bob. I use one years ago, a mechanic friend had. But he couldn’t remember where he got his. that’s why I was going to make one. That one dburr has a site for. I don’t think will work. The one I used , had two .25 inch thick washers. That had a round bottom grove cut around the face surface on both . This forced the tube to roll over. Forming a half round bead. This bead, would keep a sealant, like 4200 or 5200 under it. I think I’m going to try and make one here at the house. I would had preferred to make it on a milling machine. But I don’t have access to one today. But their has to be away to cut that grove.

[Mikerodrig27]

You don't want to use anything brass on a boat. Brass is an alloy mainly composed of two metals. Zinc and Copper. When introduced into a marine environment, the zinc sacrifices itself to the copper through galvanic corrosion (Zinc anode, Copper Cathode). This process is called dezincification. You'll want to use either copper (in certain situations) or brass. Brass is composed of Tin and Copper. They are two metals that are closer galvanically so you will see less of a degradation of the alloying elements.

[seabob4]

Think you meant bronze, Mike.  And I've never seen scupper drain tubes made of bronze...

BTW, just looked at that link.  Posted by Dale H...he runs Classic Parker.  That dude is a pistol, and don't disagree with him, he don't like that...