aquasport 17" 1970

[aqua70]

I am at the point of the project to begin planning out where everything is going to go. I had to make sure the hull, transome and stringers were ok.
The make up of the stringers system really throws a monkey wrench into what you can do and can not do without disrupting the integrity of the entire boat, especially a 1970 boat.
     Fuel tanks in the floor creates a problem. The weight of the fuel would have to be used evenly or the boat would lean to one side. Ask any clam boat or dragger. The use a little from each tank using a switch.
     The original fuel tank was under the console, I am not really in favor of putting the battery next to the fuel tank. What do you think?
I  am trying to keep it as simple as possible. I have the other boat for all day excursions to the ocean.
     Another question maybe someone can answer. Should I put a bilge pump in the very bottom, actually under the floor?  I know that no water should ever get under there but what if?   Thanks RG

[JimCt]

Suggest putting the bilge pump in the bilge at the stern under a good watertight deck hatch.  Bilge pumps need regular maintenance to keep debris out of the intake screen.  Same location for the float switch which also need regular inspection.

[RickK]

I don't think that weight problem should be a problem if both free-flow simultaneously.  Something to think about - figure out a way to make it work so you don't have a switch.  Free up the space under the console.
Speaking of space - look at my signature - I have a '71 170 and know all about the vast space in your boat.
Look familiar, before you pulled the sole - or "this is what it could look like":

I know about the tank above the deck and under the console too:

What a waste of space. What I would give for a little more storage space on my 170.  They're great boats, I've owned it now going on 20 years.
You have a chance to improve what you have now that it is opened up - think about it.

As for the bilge - originally my floor had an access plate in the aft into the bilge - when I redid my floor and rebuilt the damaged stringers, I never put one back in figuring that no water should ever get in being the deck/sole is sealed from the hull/bilge, like you said.  
I re-opened an old crack in the hull and started taking on some water recently - a bilge pump coming on would have surely alerted me to this problem, as usually there was no water that ever came out of the bottom drain (or like teaspoon full).  I was tempted to cut an access back into the bilge when I couldn't find the source of the leak. Now that I found the source and am going to repair it, am I going to put an access plate in? Jury is still out.

[RickK]

I thought about it a little more and I think I would also figure out a way to put a bilge pump in and route the exhaust hose through the stringers to the side of the boat attached to a thru-hull.  Then you're covered.  I don't have that option unless I want to pull the floor again, which I don't.
Options are plenty when the sole is out.  Suggestions and opinions are also plentiful and cheap  

[aqua70]

The motor picture is exact...  The second bilge, we were going to install a hatch cover alittle bigger than the 6 in original. Big enough to get to the plug with out being  Houdini, and also access to the bilge area and plug. The console is exact as well.  
     That boat must scream with a 115 on it.  I fell a 70 will push it along pretty well and be economical.
    Todays question? The trough that runs along the starboard side for the steering and controls.  What is the best way to design that ?  Do I need it?
Can I run the controls from the center console under the floor, down the starboard freeboard and out the side to the motor?   The jury is still out on this. I have pros and cons on this one.  

I want to thank you two guys for helping me out.  RG

[RickK]

I get just at 40 with the 115.  Probably best cruisin at 30-33.  Jim had a 70 and topped out at 32 (I think).
Bilge pump - I would seriously think of a way to put the exhaust tube from the bilge pump through the stringer and up the inside of the liner and to a thruhull near the back.  Otherwise how you going to get the water out?  That's what I didn't put one back in.  I do carry one in a bucket though.
Trough - do you still have the old one, hopefully you didn't carve it up.  It is a convenient way to run all cables to the back and still have a watertight sole.

[aqua70]

I will have some pictures. We are installing the new floor. Marine Plywood, and we will glass her in like new.
     I just realized that you can not get to the plug from the inside of the boat. It is in the middle of a stringer. We are still going to put a small bilge in there just in case. The sole will be water tight when finished.
     Storage.. How much can you do ?  I think you are limited.  When we first got the boat, I was trying to figure out where to keep the oar!!
     Also have you ever heard of a company called Marine Connection Liquidators?  They seem to have alot of what I need.
        THANKS RG

[RickK]

Did you figure out the trough?  Do you still have the "lid" that fit the old trough?

[aqua70]

We still have the old trough. We are in the process of reconstructing it to insure a water tight sole. I will post some pictures this week. Thanks RG

[RickK]

8)

[Miguel]

I was able to squeeze my digicam below the floor of my boat.  You can see the hoses from both bilge pumps go thru a smll cutout between the sole and the stringer.  The discharges are side by side very high on the satrboard side of the boat.  Sorry about my dirty bilge.......


By the way, i have separately wired pumps.  One is an automatic 1500gph and the other is 800gph with a switch on the console.  I like to turn it on from time to time to see if any water is in there and the float switch has failed.

[RickK]

You should be ashamed of yourself having a dirty bilge   (still looks cleaner than the one in my 230 and I can get to that one).

[aqua70]

How much water do you get below the sole? On our boat the plug is not accessable from the inside, that was the reason for the watertight hatch and an auxilary bilge pump like you have to pump it out. What does everyone else do?
     We started the construction of the new floor today and I will post some new updated/ progress pictures soon..... Thanks RG

[Miguel]

On my boat, some water is bound to enter the bilge.  Once I removed the fuel tanks and opened a drain on the under sole coffin for the tank, where there was none.  Any water that sneaks its way into the coffin ends up on the bilge.  I think that the anchor locker also drains to the bilge....  
Anyway, I like the idea of having a pump to let me know if a large amount of water has gotten in there.  In that case, the auto pump will go on and it will become a tell tale sign of trouble.  Also, it is hard to get a bucket under the sole.

[aqua70]

Redid the floor in our 17" Aqua 1970. Do I need to GEL COAT it?
Some say yes some say no.  I hot coated it, layed 1 layer of mat, let it set, recoated it and layed a layer of CLOTH. I was going to sand and finish it, prime it and coat it with Interlux Boat Floor paint.
ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANKS RG