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Author Topic: aquasport 17" 1970  (Read 2951 times)

February 08, 2007, 04:15:03 PM
Reply #15

JimCt

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« Reply #15 on: February 08, 2007, 04:15:03 PM »
Only wood in the boat is in the deck core (unfortunately) and in the transom (unfortunately).  Stringers are foam-filled glass.  Browse around in the gallery and rebuilds forum and you'll see pictures of the exposed stringers.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 08, 2007, 11:20:27 PM
Reply #16

aqua70

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follow up pictures
« Reply #16 on: February 08, 2007, 11:20:27 PM »


February 08, 2007, 11:22:02 PM
Reply #17

aqua70

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aqua 70 stringers?
« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2007, 11:22:02 PM »





1970 stringers look pretty good. I think alittle bit of fiberglassing to tighten them up will do the job. I think most damage came when we pulled the flooring up.
Anyone with any comments would be appreciated. Thanks RG

February 09, 2007, 07:59:45 AM
Reply #18

JimCt

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« Reply #18 on: February 09, 2007, 07:59:45 AM »
From the pictures it looks like a fair length of that port side stringer delam'ed from the hull.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 09, 2007, 08:44:56 AM
Reply #19

Shine

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« Reply #19 on: February 09, 2007, 08:44:56 AM »
Quote from: "JimCt"
From the pictures it looks like a fair length of that port side stringer delam'ed from the hull.


Yeah, and the top of the one stringer must have come off with the sole?

As long as the stringers are not water logged and the glass doesn't seem to be "rotten", then I would keep them in place and basically re-glass them with biax and epoxy.  

Grind the entire surface of the stringer, and down to the hull - just enough to clean it up.  Completely remove any of the glass that has pull off (delaminated).  Cover the entire stringer with new glass overlapping at the hull bottom by at least 3"

There is already some structure there with the old glass, so I would not be too concerned with building up thickness.  I would use a couple later of 17 oz Biaxial 45/45 with no mat (mat just adds weight and you dont need to build thickenss) and epoxy resin.

Joel

February 09, 2007, 09:59:03 AM
Reply #20

aqua70

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aqua 70
« Reply #20 on: February 09, 2007, 09:59:03 AM »
Thanks for the advice.  I plan on grinding and cutting the detached glass from the port stringer, sanding/grind down and re glassing the entire stringer to the hull bottm. Kinda reattaching it.
     The foam in all the stringers is fine. The port one with the hole in the side we did. ( I was looking for a wooden stringer like in my Grady)
I figure I can re pack the foam and reglass the entire stinger .
     There was a couple other small IFFY spots that could use some help towards the stern. I tore out all the foam from between stringers and for 37 year old foam it was remarkably dry and in good shape.
     There were two small pvc pipes running from the bow to stern. They were  1/2 in.  I wanted to replace them with 2 in. And foam over them.
     Question? what is 17 oz biaxial 45/45.
Also I truely appreciate the help everyone has been giving.
                                        THANKS RG

February 09, 2007, 10:21:39 AM
Reply #21

JimCt

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« Reply #21 on: February 09, 2007, 10:21:39 AM »
RG,  suggest you post to a single thread so your progress & pictures are all in a single place.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 09, 2007, 06:13:41 PM
Reply #22

RickK

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« Reply #22 on: February 09, 2007, 06:13:41 PM »
What does "rotten" glass look like?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 09, 2007, 09:31:26 PM
Reply #23

JimCt

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« Reply #23 on: February 09, 2007, 09:31:26 PM »
Rotten glass I've seen looks fine but the internal laminations have broken due to stress and/or resin starvation.  You can rip a "rotten" glass panel in half with your hands like a piece of cardboard.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 10, 2007, 05:31:32 AM
Reply #24

RickK

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« Reply #24 on: February 10, 2007, 05:31:32 AM »
Reason I ask, is the guy I bought the materials for at Fiberglass Services, told me any "black" needed to be ground out.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 10, 2007, 09:08:46 AM
Reply #25

JimCt

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« Reply #25 on: February 10, 2007, 09:08:46 AM »
The black is dirt/debris which has wicked into delam'ed areas or voids.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

February 12, 2007, 02:45:16 PM
Reply #26

aqua70

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aqua 70
« Reply #26 on: February 12, 2007, 02:45:16 PM »
Progress over the weekend on our 17' Aquasport. Cut away all the delaminated fiberglass, Refoamed a few of the stringers, where it needed it. Sanded and ground down the bad spots. WE are ready to fiberglass the stringers. I will send some updated pictures asap. Rg

February 17, 2007, 12:27:58 AM
Reply #27

aqua70

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Aqua70 Friday Update
« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2007, 12:27:58 AM »





Getting it together. I refoamed  and fiberglassed the port stringer back in. removed all delaminated glass and refiberglassed. Everything seems real solid and strong.
     The transom was sanded and refiberglassed, just to reinforce her.
Foam and flooring are next.  Am I on the right course? Any SUGGESTIONS?   RG

February 17, 2007, 06:03:37 AM
Reply #28

RickK

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« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2007, 06:03:37 AM »
If I had to do my floor over again (did it long ago), I think I would have to figure out a way to get the tank below the floor.  These 170 just have no storage space and just to be able to get the batteries under the console would free up a lot of room in the back.  Maybe there is a way to put in 2 separate gas tanks in the spaces between the stringers and join them together by hose.  This way you don't hurt the integrity of the stringers.  I would think you would only need one fill hose (but maybe 2 vents) as they would equalize and then put one pickup/sending unit in close to where you join them.  Maybe fill and vents toward the bow, join them at the aft by hose drilled through the stringer (and protected from chafing), sending unit/pickup at the aft.
Anyone have any ideas on this before he gets at the sole replacement?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 17, 2007, 09:39:24 AM
Reply #29

JimCt

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« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2007, 09:39:24 AM »
Progress looks great on the project!

Two custom-made tanks would work.  Think a single fill line might be a problem though because of possible uneven fill rates.  RickK is right about battery storage under the console.  Will free-up valuable deck space.

  One thing to check is whether the motor bracket obstructs the deck drain scuppers at the transom.  Mine did and caused the deck to drain very slowly.  Now'd be the time to move them if they are obstructed.  Might also be a good time to renew the brass thimbles in the scuppers.  Old ones are prone to leakage and can lead to a soaked transom core and then on to rot.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

 

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