Flatback Fireboat Rebuild

[CLM65]

Some of the things I've been working during the colder weather the past few weeks is the console and the electrical stuff (battery switches, ACR, fuse boxes, etc.).  I made an access door out of starboard for the front of the console that allows me to open the top half for normal access to battery switches and storage, and the bottom half for when I really need to get into the console, like when I replace batteries.  I plan to have a cooler/seat in front of the console, so this setup allows me normal access without having to move the cooler.





I didn't want to squeeze myself into the console to install all of the electrical components, so I mounted them on a piece of 1/2" starboard, which I will then install in the console when it is fully assembled.  I put it in temporarily to see how it will look.


I still need to add a latch to the door, and screw a piece of starboard to the top/back of the bottom door to keep it closed when the top is closed, etc., but I must say it feels good to actually see a little progress once in a while!

[Aswaff400]

looks awesome craig! wish my console had a big door on the front like that but no way with the tower cross bar there, can you believe i was able to squeeze myself in there to do a lot of the rigging... i can tell you even only being 25, my knees still felt it after being crammed in that hole for so long

[CLM65]

Thanks Aaron!  I remember you telling me that you fit in there...I'm about twice your age, and quite a bit heftier than you, so there is no way I'm fitting in, even with the big door.  My 205 Osprey is a real PITA to do any work in the bilge, and the console's not too pleasant either.  So I'm trying to make this boat a little more maintenance and old people friendly.

[RickK]

Looks great Craig   Nice big access.
You're making quite an investment in Starboard - last I priced it, it was very pricey
You have a private dealer with great prices that you want to share?  
Hell, the prices at Marine surplus for a 1 foot piece (1/2 or 3/4) is crazy.

[CLM65]

Thanks Rick!  Actually, the local Home Depot started carrying starboard last year.  They only have 1/2" x 2' x 4' sheets, and they run about $55 each.  That's less than $7/sq ft - not too bad if you ask me.  It took one sheet to do the door, and one sheet to do the electrical rigging panel and its twin for the other side of the console (where I'll mount the battery charger, NMEA 2K backbone, etc.), with a little left over.  I do like working with starboard!

[RickK]

One thing to think about, and why I added a seat to my console, is the gap that will be created by the difference between the angles of the console and the cooler.  Maybe you can plan a nice fat back cushion to fill it other wise the person on the cooler will not be comfortable if they lean back onto the console.  My cooler/console angles left a 6"+ gap at the seat level

[CLM65]

That's a very good point, Rick.  I do plan on mounting a cushion on the upper door section, but that will only help so much.  Eyeballing it, I think I will have about a 4" gap.  So with the cushion, it will probably still be about 2".  I'm not going to worry about it now, but if it does become a problem, maybe I'll try building a cooler with an appropriately sloped back side.

[Martin t]

My console isn't in great shape anywhere to get knew one

[Aswaff400]

My console isn't in great shape anywhere to get knew one

the console craig, corey(florida196), and myself are using a console from Panga marine. we used the one without the seat built into the front, http://boatconsolesandbaitwells.com/?product=guide-model-without-seat this is the one with the seat http://boatconsolesandbaitwells.com/?product=guide-model-console-with-seat  give Rob or Tom a call and mention me, Aaron from The Harborage Marina with the Aquasport

couple pics of mine, the small footprint makes the inside of the boat feel much bigger.

[CLM65]

A little progress lately.  The hull has a hook in it, like many of these old boats do.  When I first eyeballed it, it didn't strike me as too bad, so I was leaning towards not worrying about it.  Besides, I really want to get this thing finished before my kids go off to college in 4 or 5 years, so if I can avoid some extra "unnecessary" work, all the better.  But then I saw Rick tackling his, and it gave me a little inspiration.  So I laid a 4' straight edge along the hull bottom, and whoa, quite a bit more of a hook than I thought.  The widest gap was about 3/8".  I used the straight edge and some shims to map out some contour lines, cut some 1.5 oz mat, and built the areas up.  Today I checked again and there are a few low spots still, so I did the same process.  Now I think it is pretty close to where it needs to be. 

A couple of pics. This is after the first attempt at filling the hook, and before the final attempt.  The contour lines are visible from both attempts.   Starboard side:



Port side:

[CLM65]

I have opened all the craze cracks with the dremel and filled them with a VE/milled fiber/micro balloon mix and sanded them flush.  But I am still worried about them re-appearing in a year or two.  So I sanded down most of the areas on the sides where cracks existed to bare glass.  On the entire bottom of the hull, from chine to chine, I plan to add a layer of 3/4 oz mat usng VE resin.  Then I will use Arjay 7121 VE fairing compound to get the hull fair, followed by Duratec VE fairing primer. 

[CLM65]

OK, last update for today.  I think I have finally figured out what I am going to do for the deck drains and scuppers.  I got this little guy from Gemlux:





It is a duckbill insert, and fits inside their 1-1/2" forged thru hulls.  I bought the insert first so that I could see how it is made and get a feel for how it may work.  I think it will work great.  It takes extremely little effort to open it, and closes very easily as well.  So next week I will probably order the rest of the parts (thru hulls, hose adapters, and deck drains).  I just need to decide if I'm going to go out the transom or out the sides.  I'm leaning toward transom, as that would still give me the option of ping pong scupper covers if these don't work as well as I hope.  Any opinions?  It will still be a while before I am ready to install them, but I like to buy bits and pieces along the way, rather than getting hit with a lot of expenses in a short amount of time.  In other words, it's easier to hide what I'm spending from my wife if I do it in small bites 

[GoneFission]

The duckbills work pretty well - just have to watch out for trash getting stuck in them.  Trash will allow them to backflow. 

[CLM65]

The little feedback I've seen on the duckbills have been favorable, but I agree that trapped debris could be a problem.  That is why I bought a single insert before committing to the rest of the components (I've got enough things I'm not going to use).  I was afraid it would take a little force to open it, which would make it more likely to catch debris.  But it really does open extremely easily, so it shouldn't take much flow to clear it out.  Plus the deck drain will have a perforated cover, so it will filter the larger trash like leaves and twigs.

I've waffled so much on the deck drain setup, I just need to pick something and go with it.  I think this is a reasonable option.

[RickK]

A little progress lately.  The hull has a hook in it, like many of these old boats do.  When I first eyeballed it, it didn't strike me as too bad, so I was leaning towards not worrying about it.  Besides, I really want to get this thing finished before my kids go off to college in 4 or 5 years, so if I can avoid some extra "unnecessary" work, all the better.  But then I saw Rick tackling his, and it gave me a little inspiration.  So I laid a 4' straight edge along the hull bottom, and whoa, quite a bit more of a hook than I thought.  The widest gap was about 3/8".  I used the straight edge and some shims to map out some contour lines, cut some 1.5 oz mat, and built the areas up.  Today I checked again and there are a few low spots still, so I did the same process.  Now I think it is pretty close to where it needs to be. 

A couple of pics. This is after the first attempt at filling the hook, and before the final attempt.  The contour lines are visible from both attempts.   Starboard side:



Port side:

A little progress lately.  The hull has a hook in it, like many of these old boats do.  When I first eyeballed it, it didn't strike me as too bad, so I was leaning towards not worrying about it.  Besides, I really want to get this thing finished before my kids go off to college in 4 or 5 years, so if I can avoid some extra "unnecessary" work, all the better.  But then I saw Rick tackling his, and it gave me a little inspiration.  So I laid a 4' straight edge along the hull bottom, and whoa, quite a bit more of a hook than I thought.  The widest gap was about 3/8".  I used the straight edge and some shims to map out some contour lines, cut some 1.5 oz mat, and built the areas up.  Today I checked again and there are a few low spots still, so I did the same process.  Now I think it is pretty close to where it needs to be. 

A couple of pics. This is after the first attempt at filling the hook, and before the final attempt.  The contour lines are visible from both attempts.   Starboard side:



Port side:

That didn't seem to take too long, looks good Craig.