Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[Fletch170]

Hey everyone!

I've spent a few days scouring the forum for information, and I've learned a ton, but I do have a few outstanding questions. Hopefully you all can help me out here.

1. The title says the boat is a 1976, the VIN ends in 74. What?????

2. The floors are soft and I will be replacing, what thickness plywood is appropriate for the 17, and what oz mat should I be using for the floor.

3. I've read that it is common that the seam where the cap meets the transom will crack over time. This has happened on my boat. The transom shows no signs of fatigue from inside the boat. I scraped out a small amount of wood from a motor mount hole, and it is tan. This leads be to believe that the transom isn't rotten, it's just uglier than all hell. She feels solid when I hit it with a rubber mallet. Also, there are quite a few nickel to quater size blisters on the transom. The question being, from the pictures, do you believe I can simply grind down the damaged areas and wrap glass over the cam and down the transom?

CHECK THE PICTURES HERE:  http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[pete]

welcome to the forum! sounds like you have a project in you future!

[Fletch170]

Sure do! I'm hoping I can get some advice from some boaters who have done this before.

[pete]

try using the search feature,

[Capt Matt]

Cool looking boat.
If you are set on using wood for the floor the norm is probably  3/4inch ply with 1.5oz mat on both sides and two layers on the deck side. This is the most cost effective way to go, if you want more strength use  a layer of 1708 bixial on the top side before laying one layer of 1.5oz mat. Nidacore, and coosa are your more expensive composite options for flooring.
Until you get the floor out your not going to know what condition your stringers are in
Good look with your project.
Capt Matt

[Capt. Bob]

1. The title says the boat is a 1976, the VIN ends in 74. What?????

This makes it clear as mud.
HIN for boats VIN for vehicles
viewtopic.php?p=20962#p20962

[Fletch170]

Thanks Capt Bob! So the boat is a 74, and we'll just chald it up to the state of New Jersey being well.....New Jersey.

Capt Matt, I'm assuming if you use a heavier mat, you will see print through? West Marine is selling 6 and 7 oz mat, where is a good place to buy fiberglass?

Does anyone have any opinnions, or best practices for repairing the transom?

Thanks for everyones help so far. I put up some new pictures!

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[slvrlng]

Try uscomposites .com  they are really good with pricing and quality of materials!

Also you can try  bateau2.com,  Joel is a member here and they have a really good internet support forum for Q & A.

[Fletch170]

Hey guys, any thoughts on the transom?

[seabob4]

Hey guys, any thoughts on the transom?

The old saying...if it ain't broke, don't fix it...

Tilt the motor all the way up.  Get on the skeg and jump up and down on it, while observing for flex in the transom.  See any?  Time to replace.  Don't see any?  Move on to next project...

But...if the transom needs attention, 3 layers of 3/4" Coosa Bluewater 20 will do just fine...

[GoneFission]

The original decks are 1/2" marine ply glassed on both sides.  You might want to think twice about going thicker than 1/2" - that weight adds up quickly and a 170 does not like being overweight.  

Bounce the motor on the transom to see if the transom flexes.  If it's solid - don't fix what ain't broke.  A re-deck job will be plenty for you to take on.  Look around the forum and you can find plenty of similar projects with pics and lots of good lessons.  Some used plywood and some used composites, so check out the other boats and projects, learn from them, and make your decision.  

Good luck!

[Fletch170]

Awesome advice guys, but I have a small problem.......don't have a motor yet. I guess it's a decent transom, I guess we'll find out when it falls off and takes my new motor to the bottom. Maybe i'll try a steel rod through the mounting holes.

The transom does have some blisters, is this normal? Right now I'm planning on grinding them out and filling.

As far as the decking goes, I was thinking of using the 3/4 plywood with resin on the bottom, 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat on the top. My biggest concern is having the deck sit too high and blending it with the existing coffin box, and the remaining liner edge. If you recall, the 17 has a rigging trough that runs on the starboard side, from midships back, and I would like to keep this. Should I just stick with the 1/2 inch ply?

I plan on reducing the weight by installing a smaller fuel tank.

Also, I'll be raising the scuppers....as I understand your feet will get wet standing in the back of the boat.

PS, anyone have a good way to getting all the roam residue off the coffin box?

[gran398]

Fletch, re the foam, you will need to cut it out. A machete will do the job nicely.

[c master]

Hey Fletch -

I have a '75 170, and there are many other 170 owners on this site.  Regarding your comment about 'raising the scuppers":  It's true that water will occasionally come in through the original locations, but unless you also raise the floor, I would not recommend raising the scuppers.  You want water to run out down to the surface of the floor...with higher drains that won't happen.

There are some nifty "valves" that fit right over the original drain holes.  They are marketed under a number of brands now, but essentially they consisit of a captive ping pong ball that keeps water out when the 'scuppers' are under water.

This is just "one man's opinion', so I'd be interested to have some others chime in here...

[Fletch170]

gran398,

I have the foam out, but there is a 1/4 inch skin I can't even chip off with a putty knife. Looks like I'll be grinding it out.

C master, I'm not sure if your boat is like mine, but the scuppers sit well below the deck in a trough in the rear of the boat. When I put the new deck in, I will be eliminating the trough anyway, which by default, I would need to raise them. So, unless there is a serious design flaw with these boats, if I don't change the slope or height of the deck, water should still drain toward the aft, right?

However, I see your point with the ball scuppers, and I have had luck with them in the past.