1987 222 Osprey rebuild (complete!!!)

[kedd]

Hi All,

I'm somewhat new here, but all the rebuild threads have finally motivated me.

I have the boat stripped and ready to cut the flooring out.
I plan on replacing the floor with marine plywood but would like to keep the same height or close.
I will also be doing stringers that have lifted and transom that is wet.
I guess the first question I have is how close to the edge should I cut the floor?
Second would be does the 222 Osprey have an outer stringer?
I'm sure I'll have plenty more.

Would like as much input and as many ideas as possible.

Thanks in advance!

Kedd


Here are a couple of pics

[slvrlng]

Not sure about the stringer setup but make sure you support the gunwales if you go farther and start pulling the stringers out. The sides can become very floppy once the cap is off. This can make it difficult to get it back on if it flexes. I would think around a 2" lip would be plenty as long as your going to tab it up the liner anyway.

[gran398]

Hi Kedd, and welcome,

I don't have all of the answers, but will tell you that have researched the forthcoming rebuild pretty hard. The pros tell me the following. And this is not to dismiss, but rather uphold, all of the hard work and advice of the past.

Floor (cockpit sole): It has been recommended to use a Skilsaw set at floor depth (we'll use 1/2" per example) and leave 1 to 2 inches as outer rim intact, and cut the rest (inboard portion) out. The reasoning is to have something to rest/adhere to on the outside edge on the rebuild, and additionally raise the floor height to promote easier self-bailing.

A professional builder in Tampa, Florida, specializing in Aquasport rebuilds does not recommend this. First, we're rebuilding to a plywood base, ie, rot potential. Secondly, he maintains that most Aquasport hull failures/delams occur on the chines, therefore, structural strength was lacking there initially.

This may generate comments, but now his next advice: In place of the remaining plywood floor strip, cut it ALL out, and use structural foam as an outside stringer on each chine. He advises to use 4 lb. density closed-cell foam, cut with a band-saw to hull curvature, and glassed in. Basically a full length "cleat" per each outboard side, upon which the floor will rest.

Stringers: We plan on cutting off the tops of the existing reverse "U" stringers, digging out the wet foam, refilling with closed cell foam, and re-glassing the tops. Will re-tab for strength. If they existing stringers are shot, will install a box system: a recent high-quality example is shown here on the board.

Floor. Nida-core, glued with Plexus. Tests show has much greater tensile/sheer strength than poly-adhesive. No screws...weighted down to adhere/set-up with about 40 cinder blocks. When finished with the cinder blocks...sell them.

Transom: Coosa Board.

He also advised that with quality work, you don't necessarily need to go high-tech as discussed. Just depends on how long you would like it to last. More spent initially, longer her life, and higher the resale value. We are all aware of a recent quality rebuild here in classifieds for 50K ask.

My thinking is, I'd like it right. Shopping around is imperative. Wish we're younger, had more energy, would do it here in the back yard....and get a good job. May take twice as long, but would get a good job. But at my age, am better off staying at work, and trying for a nickel. And pay the pro to do a good job, with his work/reputation/guarantee on the line.

 You can't beat a man at his own game.

The plan so far....hope its of help.

[Jon]

Well stated. I admire anyone willing to this job and it seems alot of the reason for this site. But, obvious to us (even though I am an imposter with a proline flatback) people want these boats. If you can get into the project at the right price its worth the cost of a pro, or atleast going rotproof. But the nice thing about opinions is they are just opinions. My biggest issue is mine was rebuilt three years ago, used wood, and the previous owner installed everything after the floors were completed, and now they are rotting away. Even if he had sealed everything properly, those materials breakdown eventually. He had 25k into it. Had to ask 17k t get phone calls and I walked away with it for a few grand less, and a huge job to deal with. But, thats the love of te game. Could've bought a traditional bay boat but now I have a peice of Florida history and a much more functional boat.

The pro I know that has been doing it longer than Aquasport has been around refuses to use anything else but 3/4 marine grade ply. Not my choice, but how do you argue the point with a guy like that.

[kedd]

Hi All,

Thanks for all the input, this site has been very helpful with all the rebuild threads and advise.
It's great to see the different ways people are going about their projects and use a bit from each.

Well I think if budget allows I will be using a coosa board on the floor and transom.
I only want to do this once.

I got a bit done today, now for all the clean up and really see what is there.
The STBD side was very wet and also the stringer was lifting which is why I started this.
The port side was fairly dry and casting deck area is dry.
I'll know more once I pull the wood off the transom and remove foam from the rest of the boat

Couple of pics






Kedd

[kedd]

Finally got the transome poured yesterday.
Came up about 2 gallons short but the pour was farily easy.
I can say I'm very glad I spent the time in prep and made the forms overkill.
I still had a small leak on one outside edges and had to fire in a screw, oh well.
I waiting now for the other few gallons before I pull the form.
Here are a few pics.

Kedd

[slvrlng]

Looking good! Which material did you use? Will the adhesion be okay between the old pour and the new? I have heard of guys that had to add more and drilled several vertical holes into the old pour so they would be structurally held together. They wallowed out the bottom of the holes so it looked like a cone with the small end at the top. This locked the two pours together. Just my .02!

[MarshMarlowe196]

Looking good! Which material did you use? Will the adhesion be okay between the old pour and the new? I have heard of guys that had to add more and drilled several vertical holes into the old pour so they would be structurally held together. They wallowed out the bottom of the holes so it looked like a cone with the small end at the top. This locked the two pours together. Just my .02!

   Good idea.

[Circle Hooked]

Good job so far kedd,I'm looking to get a 17 in the hopefully near future,and with my budget it will be one that will need to be redone so I'll be watching your progress and maybe i can learn something.

Thanks for sharing with us.

[pete]

Nice work.kedd keep it up,nice pics,thanks for the update

[kedd]

Thanks all.

Slvrlng,
I used Arjay 6011 it was fairly easy to work with.
Talked to them today, they say no prep and the bond will be just as strong.
I'm going the extra step and preping the surface and drilling holes with ^ shape at the bottom.
I may use your idea and wallow the bottom out, I'll get insired.
I will end up all in at 27.5 gallons at 2" thick not including 1/2" outer skin.
 
 

I have to say I'm glad I glassed the inside form in.
The recomended method of braces and duct tape would never have held.
At least not in my case.
There was some crowning starting to happen on the outside.
Boards, straps and some scrambling reeled it back in though.

Kedd

[kedd]

A little more progress.
The transom is poured and came out great.
I'm 4 degrees off of being flush, but I will machine a small shim for the Porta Bracket.

The stringers are almost repaired, and then I'll glass the entire inside hull in 1708 and epoxy.
Im still waiting in my vacume film and other supplies for the transom so I can tie the stringers in, shoud be here in a day or two.


Kedd

[gran398]

Kedd,

REALLY nice work. Could you tell us a bit more about the Arjay? Ease of use, working temp, etc.?

Thanks!

[GoneFission]

Hi All,
I guess the first question I have is how close to the edge should I cut the floor?
Second would be does the 222 Osprey have an outer stringer?

1.  Most people cut with a circular saw and run the saw around the edge - so the "lip" winds up being about 1" to 1 1/2"  - this is adequate for the new deck boards to bond and sit on, and raises the deck up about 3/4" from standard - which is a good thing from a deck drainage standpoint.  You can fill the space between the stringers and the deck with high density foam, pieces of decking material, bondo, or other filler material.

2.  Aquasports have 2 stringers - one on each side - usually about 12" in from the deck edge.  There is no "outer" stringer.  

Hope this helps - good luck and keep posting pics!!  

[kedd]

Gran398
The Arjay was very easy to work with, it poured very well.
There was a very little shrinkage and cure time is 24 hours.
The second pour is where I lost a few degrees as I had to clamp the forms a bit more.
The manufacturer said I didn't need to prep before the second pour but I did anyway.
I drilled an X pattern of holes and sanded the surface.
The working temp I was in was 70 degrees but 65 in minimum.
It self leveled very well and I had plenty of working time with 2 people.
As far as strengh, I guess Ill see in a month or two.
The spec sheet looks good, and I will say drilling it was no joke.

Gonefission
Thanks for the input and I did leave about 1.5-2.0" around the edge for the new floof support.

Kedd