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240 Rebuilds / Re: 1974' Aquasport 240 CC Rebuild
« Last post by Ulysses485 on Today at 08:16:55 AM »
:thumleft:
That's a unique t-top the way it has 2 levels. Are you going to make the console taller so you can utilize the rear attachment points? Unfortunately the rigging tubes you noted that go to the storage box in the top are not in line with the console so I will have to raise the console about 4-5 inches to make it work. I thought about raising just the helm section so I don't increase the overall height of the console but it would be much more work so I have to ponder on that. I was always into puzzles as a kid but this is next level.

The Top style is actually commonly used on Gause Built Boats (not sure if they come out of the same mold but they surely look identical) which I discovered in the process of making the decision to purchase. The top was marketed as a takeoff from a Young 24. It has a fiberglass hardtop so it makes for a usable platform. I really like the look and think it will compliment the eyebrow on the cap well. I know most like a flatcap but I like the classic look of the brow and its functionality to shed water.



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Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics / Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Last post by RickK on Today at 05:31:40 AM »
Rick, I am having Pic issues. Do you want to discuss via email?
We can - rickk@classicaquasport.com
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240 Rebuilds / Re: 1974' Aquasport 240 CC Rebuild
« Last post by RickK on Today at 05:29:02 AM »
 :thumleft:
That's a unique t-top the way it has 2 levels. Are you going to make the console taller so you can utilize the rear attachment points?
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240 Rebuilds / Re: 1974' Aquasport 240 CC Rebuild
« Last post by Ulysses485 on May 02, 2024, 04:59:59 PM »
Got around to measuring up and cutting the console down to fit the new T-Top. Need to grab a couple of sheets of Melamine to use as mold backer to build it back. I cant wait to get a deck built and start mocking stuff up!!



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240 Rebuilds / Re: 1974' Aquasport 240 CC Rebuild
« Last post by Ulysses485 on May 02, 2024, 04:57:09 PM »
Got the bottom of the hull gel coated underneath the fuel tank subfloor and subfloor glassed in. I used some cut up glass panels from another project as a "Mold backer" and it worked out great for the purpose. Getting close to putting foam back in the stringers.








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Electronics / Re: Primer Solenoid
« Last post by Capt. Bob on May 02, 2024, 01:20:03 PM »
Very good. Now enjoy!
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Engines & engine woes / Re: 2003 215 Explorer With Johnson 175 no s/n plate
« Last post by Capt. Bob on May 02, 2024, 01:03:40 PM »


You are looking for the model 175 you have. Something like "J175PXST" correct?

You may be able to back in to the model (fairly close anyway) by reviewing the OMC model letters with what you have i.e. shaft length, electric start, etc.

If so, start here: https://marinepartssource.com/blog/identifying-evinrude-johnson-outboard-motors
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Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics / Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Last post by dbiscayne on May 02, 2024, 09:52:25 AM »
Other than Coosa or similarly priced materials or plywood, what other decking materials work.

I've had good luck with Nida Core (Plascore) using it for deck core, used 5/8" and 3/4" but it has its drawbacks.
Two versions available, with a scrim and without. Just a thin covering on the surface to help attach fiberglass. Get the scrim.
My layup for each side was a light coat of resin onto the scrim, then 1 layer 1708, and 1 layer of woven 12 oz., all wet on wet. Panels are reasonably light & stiff as long as you're not having to span a long distance without supports, 2 foot x 4 foot area was no problem.
The edges are the most work. If you've got an opening for a hatch and need to fill the sides of the honeycomb it takes some time but not a deal breaker. You also can't put a screw into it without prep, filling in the honeycombs, I added Divinicell as a backer where I knew I'd have screws.
It's cheaper than structural foam core.
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Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics / Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
« Last post by Duffy1470 on May 02, 2024, 08:16:07 AM »
Rick, I am having Pic issues. Do you want to discuss via email?
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Fiberglass and Materials Corner / Re: Cabin Ceiling
« Last post by RickK on May 01, 2024, 05:14:15 PM »
Do you have access to a fiberglass store? You might look for a small piece of Plascore or other honeycomb composite.  They're very easy to work with and when it's glassed on both sides, it's stiff.
On the bare hatch glass I would grind it down and if the sliding hatch is already stiff (can't twist it), then add some 3 oz CSM (chopped fiberglass) and roll on the resin (I assume poly).  If it's not already stiff then I would add a layer of 1708 CSM side out on top of the CSM added as the first layer. That will stiffen it up.  Then cut your composite (you could use plywood, 1/2 or even 3/8" with glass on both sides is beefy enough. Trowel on thickened resin on the hatch, as Fishhead mentioned, lay in the core and you can wedge a 2x4 up against it to press it into the resin. If you're going to top coat it with a layer of glass then you might want to bevel the edge of whatever core you decide to use - 1708 doesn't like to traverse corners.
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