1973 222 rebuild

[kidd277]

I’ve got the 2 3/4” cutouts clamped now, just don’t have pictures. Basically I did a layer of 1.5oz and 1708 with a little more resin then usual (not thickened). I then placed the other cutout on top and placed lots of weight on top. It’s been siting about 2 days while I’ve been at work. The plan is to wrap 1708 around the edges, then on both sides and clamp it into the boat with thickened resin. I will then wrap that with a layer or two of 1708. Hopefully I’m on the right track with my plans???

[Aquasport Commodore]

May I make a suggestion prior to installing that transom since you are using wood. Cut a large 1/2 hole where the drain plug will be installed. Install the transom then go back and fill with Epoxy to where it is level with the surface of the transom core. Once that is cured, drill the epoxy and install your transom/bilge drain tube. This way there will be no water absorption later as the wood will wick it up like a candle wick. Sort of the same as over drilling engine mount holes and filling with epoxy and redrilling for permanent install. Much easier to do while out of the boat then trying to drill it when in the boat.

Here is a picture explaining what I described

[kidd277]

May I make a suggestion prior to installing that transom since you are using wood. Cut a large 1/2 hole where the drain plug will be installed. Install the transom then go back and fill with Epoxy to where it is level with the surface of the transom core. Once that is cured, drill the epoxy and install your transom/bilge drain tube. This way there will be no water absorption later as the wood will wick it up like a candle wick. Sort of the same as over drilling engine mount holes and filling with epoxy and redrilling for permanent install. Much easier to do while out of the boat then trying to drill it when in the boat.

Thanks for the input. Makes perfect sense. One question, you are saying to use epoxy? Is this for the water proof properties of epoxy. Due to the fact I will be using  poly could I use thickened poly instead? How will the poly drill? Also I am planning on painting the bilge bottom portion on transom, and underside of deck with an epoxy based bilge paint.

[Aquasport Commodore]

I would do the cut and fill the edges with the Poly. Do the complete install and have everything done. Once installed and all glass work done, then use the thicken Epoxy and fill it up. Same goes for the engine mount holes as well. Most bilge paint is Epoxy I think so there wont be an issue with adhesion. Epoxy is waterproof and easy to work with in my opinion. (And you know what they say about opinions )

I am also not a big fan of garboard plugs, I am old fashion tubes with rubber plugs type of guy. If you get water in the bilge and the pump fails, gravity never does and a moving boat with plug pulled will drain just as well. (Back up) And try to undo a garboard plug and get the water out of the bilge while underway, I'd love to watch that  

[RickK]

One question, you are saying to use epoxy? Is this for the water proof properties of epoxy. Due to the fact I will be using  poly could I use thickened poly instead? How will the poly drill? Also I am planning on painting the bilge bottom portion on transom, and underside of deck with an epoxy based bilge paint.

I think a good approach is anything structural use epoxy - the bond is crazy strong compared to poly.  Poly is very brittle IMO - I overdrilled some holes and filled with thickened poly and they all cracked as they hardened.  I dug that out and refilled with thickened epoxy and they hardened perfect and drilled perfect.
On my rebuild I have done everything under the sole with epoxy to include painting the bilge area in Ebond epoxy paint.  Now that I am above the sole I am using poly - anywhere I can still use epoxy I will but I know that the finished product must be poly so I can gelcoat.  
It's a challenge but for strength think epoxy.

[kidd277]

So in the past two days I’ve made some progress, yet I’ve also ran into/ created a possible issue!
I took the weight from the transom core and beveled the edge with a router.  Then wrapped the side to be glued into the transom skin and also glassed the edges.





I then made my clamps to fix core onto the boat.

[kidd277]

I then confirmed the fit, prepared both surfaces, and began to mix my thickened resin. I spread the “peanut butter” on the transom core and also around the edge of the new ”skin”. I placed the clamps and added scrap 2x4’s to evenly distribute the pressure.






Clamped the heck out of them, being sure to have keep the pressure consistent throughout. I had peanut butter  squeezing out of the top.

[kidd277]

Good to go right?? Well…after 24 hours and removing the clamps and I see through the skin that only the edges and top of the core got a good bond. I’m guessing I didn’t use enough of thickened resin. I didn’t get a picture due to the dark. But can see clearly that there is around  1/64” of a gap in about 75% of the transom. What to do???what to do???
Also I ended up taking Kevin’s suggestion, I cut a half round hole and glassed the edge, late to be epoxy filled and drilled for drain tube.  Thanks Kevin!!


So before continuing with the transom I figured it was time to pull the front deck. In order to do so I decided against cutting the deck itself and glassing it back later. Instead I decided to pull the top cap and remove the front deck in one piece cutting  the liner aft of  the deck. I figured it would be less work later to glass the liner on each side then to have to try to hold the deck in place and glass all the way around it.
So the plan was to lift the cap and remove the deck and set the cap back on all in one night  (last night) , but by the time I got the cap lifted it was too late to fire up the grinder and cut the liner. Since its back to work today for me the cap is currently hanging above the boat. Which again wait till you see the “rigging” I did to lift the cap. It looks risky but I promise its secure.




And also my new toy!!! I just couldn’t post without sharing!

[Aquasport Commodore]

You will learn to hate that grinder when it's all said and done  

[kidd277]

I'm going to a 7" grinder from a 4" so it's a love/hate relationship!

[RickK]

I've burned up 2 of each size on my rebuild, so far, and umpteen flap sanding wheels - so don't fall in love with the grinder    
You're right though, the 7" will take care of business but you'll need the 4" for detail grinding.  Maybe a purchase of a multitool for some of the weird stuff - Harbor Freight is the best deal on disposable tools.  The glass dust will tear up the best tools in the same time frame.

[kidd277]

I bought that one over a harbor freight model with that hope that if that one burns up within 3 years I can get it replaced.... and any suggestions on the transom core having a gap?

[RickK]

Are you talking about 1/64" of distance between the new skin on the inside of the transom and the wood? Did you use a tile trowel to spread the thickened resin?
I would say it is what it is now - do you feel like it got a good bond? Meaning that there is a bond all around, just not as tight as you'd like?

[kidd277]

Yes... I used a putty knife with grooves in it similar to a trowel. I think it just wasn't enough resin. And it is solid around the edge for sure. About 75% has the small air gap that can be seen and if run your nails across it you can hear it's hollow. When you push on it it flexes in between 1/64" to 1/32" ... could it be drilled and injected with resin??

[CLM65]

When you push on it it flexes in between 1/64" to 1/32" ... could it be drilled and injected with resin??

I had the same thing happen to me.  I ended up drilling an array of 1/8" relief holes from the top of the void to a few inches above the bottom of the void.  I also drilled a few 1/4" holes along the bottom of the void.  I bought a handful of empty caulking tubes from FGCI, and filled them with epoxy thickened with cabosil - not peanut butter consistency in this case, more like a thick syrup.  I started injecting in one of the 1/4" holes.  As the epoxy started oozing from each relief hole, I put a screw in it.  Then continued injecting and plugging holes until the void was filled.  I can't say for sure that it is 100% filled, but it is very solid.  Just make sure you don't pressurize the cavity and cause it to bow out.  And this job definitely goes smoother with an extra set of hands.