Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 165/170/175 Rebuilds => Topic started by: CTsalt12 on January 25, 2021, 04:49:45 PM
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Hi All,
I'm finally getting around to replacing a fuel tank on my 175 which has caused me a lot of issues.
While I'm at it, I will re-paint the non skid, and make some console / dashboard modifications.
Other considerations:
-widening rigging channel deck hole, and adding a flange to keep any drips out.
-cutting hatch aft of console in the well documented open space these boats have.
-potentially re glassing coffin hatch, if need be (need some help making decision here)
Posting here as there are a ton of 170 rebuilds, but maybe not so many 175's. I've also got a few unique things on my boat I'd like to share.
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And one pic of the console. I am thinking about moving a few things around.
First off, move the ignition key to the right side to streamline wiring and console organization, so ignition can follow the throttle cables and gauges into the rigging channel.
Secondly, I will be removing the hardwood on the top of console and adding large flush cupholders with drains, to hold not only beverages but also spare lures or 'plugs' as us striper fisherman call them. This way they're not bouncing around in the trough below the gauges.
Third-potentially move my switches from the port side to the current location of engine gauges, and put gauges under steering wheel. The gauges tend to get switched by accident now. I will be replacing with a new panel from New Wire Marine. I can also re-purpose that rectangular area with a glovebox for phones etc.
Lastly, new hatch from Boat Outfitters as mine is broken and the design is kind of silly. If I have time, I'd like to replace the dashboard material from the fugly worn plastic material...
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That's a unique "shim" for the tank :think:
When you move the ignition switch, make sure you keep it on the vertical side of console. Mine was on the same pane as the switches on your console and twice I had the switch short out from water, of course while I was on the water and now stranded.
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Thanks Rick. Idea with the ignition being that on the vertical plane it's less likely to have contact with water leaks?
And yeah, the Previous owner did a few things wrong with the tank install. The shim is one of them, to make the tank fit in too long a space. The tank was also too high and did not have a 90 degree fitting, which caused it to warp downwards-one of the reasons I was getting water in the tank. The unusual shape is one of the reasons I'm going with a custom aluminum. Old tank held about 20 gallons, new one should hold 35 which I'm pretty pumped about. I do a lot of long-ish runs for a boat this size.
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On my boat I didn't leave the key in the ignition and rain would get into the slot where the key would go and shorted out the electrical somehow. Keeping the ignition on the vertical has stopped that. Maybe I could have left the key, which has a plastic cover that shields the slot, in the ignition?
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Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting.
1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin. You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage. I'm not going to. All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case). You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.
2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin. There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow. Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter. You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.
3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft. I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.
Any recommended methods for #3? I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started. I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.
I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way? I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.
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The attached images show what I am going for. Going to cut shims/buffer for the console to rest on, made of PVC strips. Is there any reason to buy marine starboard over this PVC material? Seems like a great cheaper widely available alternative..
The reason I'm doing all this is I have a very leaky console. The console flange is chipped and uneven, deck surface is uneven and worn down. it makes a tight seal near impossible. I'm hoping this creates a nice dry seal and helps keep water out of my fuel coffin as well.
Thinking I will drill the PVC into the deck and seal with silicone or 5200... Then drill the console into the PVC strips only.
Any thoughts about my direction here?
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I think its a good idea. I made my console so it sat flush on the deck and I caulked it down and later found out it was leaking when it rained. I opened it and I had an inch of water in the bottom. I used a sawzall and laid the blade so it's side was flat on the deck and forced it through the caulking at the rear of the console in the 2 corners and and inch or two toward the center. All the water came out quickly and now I know it'll drain. The thing I would think about if you set it up with too much gap is that you'll have some visitors move into your console. Down here in FL we have a lot of paper and mud dauber wasps that will squeeze into anything they can and make a home. I saw a couple wasps disappearing into the 1/4" gap I have under the built-in seat on the console - yup, a nest or two found. I also have a 1/8" gap where the back of the seat closes on the console and inside I found some 3" nests.
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Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting.
1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin. You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage. I'm not going to. All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case). You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.
2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin. There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow. Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter. You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.
3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft. I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.
Any recommended methods for #3? I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started. I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.
I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way? I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.
Do you have the trough from console to the aft, on your boat? There was a recent thread where the member had a hole from a PO drilled into the end of the trough and they routed fuel line and other wiring through that hole into the fuel coffin. If you have the trough, can you take a better pic of the end near the console and that hole you're talking about please? We were trying to figure out how the factory routed that stuff originally. Looks like you have the answer.
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Folks may find some of my findings from this refurb interesting.
1. Orange circled area in picture-This is an empty space in the deck, fore of the fuel coffin. You could in theory add a hatch here for more storage. I'm not going to. All that is in there is the fuel vent and fill lines that pass through, plus bow light wires (and trolling motor wires in my case). You could easily use it for life jackets, possibly a battery, tackle, etc.
2. Yellow line on starboard side of coffin. There is a channel here where bow light wires (and trolling motor wires) in my case can go, en route to the bow. Its a major pain to rig this because the hole inside the deck where the wires can go is about as wide as a quarter. You might not know this without taking it all apart and I haven't seem many 175's deconstructed.
3. This is the standard opening for all the rigging to go both fore and aft. I want to widen the opening as I've added a lot of stuff (speaker in stern, livewell, transducer) that makes it crowded, and there's a good chance that trim tabs are on the way for me.
Any recommended methods for #3? I am thinking just use jigsaw, with some pre-drilled holes to get started. I will make it wider on the starboard side, away from fuel coffin.
I'd also like to maybe make a flange to keep any potential dripping out, if there's an easy way? I won't spend much time on it (Famous last words). I was thinking cut a few inches of 6 inch PVC tube and epoxy to the deck? Something like that.
Do you have the trough from console to the aft, on your boat? There was a recent thread where the member had a hole from a PO drilled into the end of the trough and they routed fuel line and other wiring through that hole into the fuel coffin. If you have the trough, can you take a better pic of the end near the console and that hole you're talking about please? We were trying to figure out how the factory routed that stuff originally. Looks like you have the answer.
Not the trough per se with the removable cover, but I have a rigging channel with a gap in the stringers for everything to pass through. The fuel line leaves the coffin in the stern and via this hole, see pic, and meets the fuel water separator in the starboard
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/647706C0-0C47-4222-9BEB-1CB5F92A9075.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21540&title=647706c0-0c47-4222-9beb-1cb5f92a9075&cat=500)
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Oh, so you don't have the trough.
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I've got a 1994 175 also and was wondering if you could tell me if the coffin has a drain hole in the aft for any water that leaks into it? And did your tank have a fuel leak? I'm hoping to just clean and refurbish mine through access covers. Thanks.
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Sure thing. There is a drain in the center stern lowest point of the fuel coffin. There’s also sort of inadvertent drains where the tank holding mounts (don’t know what these are called) go into the coffin. My tank was leaking through the sender and it could not be repaired. Poly tank and the bolts where the sender screws screw into were rotted. Post your tank situation and I’ll see if I can help. (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/4876E9A6-5CD6-4D5D-AA23-F14CF7E8BDB8.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21542&title=4876e9a6-5cd6-4d5d-aa23-f14cf7e8bdb8&cat=500)
Any reason I should replace my tank mounts? (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/ACDB009F-E739-4128-8241-2AC352A4B27E.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21543&title=acdb009f-e739-4128-8241-2ac352a4b27e&cat=500)
I made some progress cleaning the coffin, getting silicone off the coffin cover and epoxying old holes I won’t use anymore. Also widened the hole to the rigging Channel (not the dreaded trough) to make my life easier. It was a little sketchy with the jigsaw but managed to not damage any wires.
Picking up new tank from Phil at Alloy metal works tomorrow. Excited to get to work!
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/1D7E3F7E-D897-406F-B9E8-9317898798EA.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21541&title=1d7e3f7e-d897-406f-b9e8-9317898798ea&cat=500)
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/5120257B-2AA0-494B-9BBA-5740328ADC27.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21544&title=5120257b-2aa0-494b-9bba-5740328adc27&cat=500)
I am tossing around the idea of replacing my dashboard (PO installed cheap black plastic). So I’m looking at my steering wheel. Read many threads on how to get these off. I’ve never seen anything like this . The back of the bolt that attaches to the steering wheel (and turns when I turn the wheel) has this flange and what looks like a removable cap. Before I go and rip this off, should I?? Anyone seen this before?
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Don’t think the flange has to be removed unless you’re replacing just the shaft? The steering wheel comes off and the entire mechanism drops out through the inside of the console. Hope this helps
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/thumbs/2D16A645-625D-4E25-92DF-C3EB2A075201.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21545&title=2d16a645-625d-4e25-92df-c3eb2a075201&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/5F0EFCCA-6674-4EE8-A530-387A35B33678.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21546&title=5f0efcca-6674-4ee8-a530-387a35b33678&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/14B6CDCA-AC79-4C00-B384-EBA45A11EEC9.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21547&title=14b6cdca-ac79-4c00-b384-eba45a11eec9&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/2D16A645-625D-4E25-92DF-C3EB2A075201.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21545&title=2d16a645-625d-4e25-92df-c3eb2a075201&cat=500)
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To remove the front panel below the helm, you will need to take the wheel off from the front. There is a nut that you remove, then you will probably need to use a puller to get the wheel off unless it wasn’t really tightened. There is a small chock that goes in the column - shaped like a “D”, make sure this doesn’t get lost!
Once the wheel is off, there is a metal frame that has three bolts that anchor it to the console from the front. You can see the back of these bolts in your photo. This frame holds the whole assembly in place.
Once that is off, the whole steering assembly will drop down inside the console and you will be free to replace the front panel.
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Thank you wingnut and Brad.... I think I got it now. Hoping I don’t need a puller but I’ll get one if needed.
Got the new tank today from Alloy metal works. Phil is a stand up guy I think. He sells a lot of tanks to Aquasport owners, he knows about this forum, and in fact he had just shipped a tank to an AS owner in Oregon. He was explaining to me how his aluminum tanks have baffles which standard moellers do not. On a big boat with a lot of gas sloshing around that can really rock the boat. Also the way the plastic tanks tend to warp leads to leaks. I certainly experienced that. I am sold on aluminum as the way to go to.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/24A78C62-E88C-460D-9183-614307CF7D55.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21548&title=24a78c62-e88c-460d-9183-614307cf7d55&cat=500)
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I’m around the corner from you so a meetup for the puller is a no brainer.... don’t buy for a once-off.
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Thanks Brad-may take you up on that depending how it goes. Back to the fuel tank.. going to use a semi-Pascoe method and affix some PVC strips to the bottom of the tank going horizontally (east to west). I think I’ll use the existing straps that are on the boat now. Unless someone can convince me otherwise? For some reason this pascoe fella says to not use rubber around the aluminum tanks, so I’ll need to use an alternate material between the stainless straps and the aluminum tank. Any ideas here?
Got some chipped areas of the coffin I will epoxy too.
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Alright so... think I’ve figured out how I’ll do this.
1. Cut PVC strips just about an 1/8 inch short of the tank edges. 1 foot apart, 1/4 inch from ends of tank (from pascoe literature.
2. Roughed up tank and PVC surfaces.
3. Will 5200 to tanks leaving no gaps between PVC and tank.
4. I will use the existing tie down fasteners to keep tank secure, but replace the rubber buffer material with vinyl hose materiel a cut open.
5. Gasoila on fuel pickup threads and standard sender/ground installations all heat shrunken.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/44331C56-B408-4832-9ED3-90EE27D0E1EB.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21557&title=44331c56-b408-4832-9ed3-90ee27d0e1eb&cat=500)
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Progress has been slow since it got cold again and I have been consumed with “honey do” projects. But, getting there.
Fuel fill vent and feed lines are routed. Along with ground wires. Not an easy job with a 6 inch pie plate, I got some bloody knuckles. Easier to push than pull.
Tank coffin is Just about cleaned up, almost all silicone off. You’ll see some areas of the tank are really banged up and fiberglass is worn through. I plan to drill all new holes and patch up these damaged areas with thickened epoxy.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/6480B305-7AD4-41FA-AF4D-9FC0025341C0.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21604&title=6480b305-7ad4-41fa-af4d-9fc0025341c0&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/CA60D94D-ACE6-48A9-86DB-DEE9499149F4.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21605&title=ca60d94d-ace6-48a9-86db-dee9499149f4&cat=500)
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I should add, I had to cut my fuel fill cap neck a bit, just so I could mount the 1.5 inch hose to it with two hose clamps. Ridiculous how little space there is in there. The angle of the fill neck leaves about no space between neck and the hull of the boat. By grinding off a bit, the hose and 2 reverse clamps still have plenty of purchase on the neck, and no pressure on the hull. Not ideal but whatever.
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Yep, that fill line is NOT fun to thread up through the hull. Not a lot of space through the access hatch to get a hand in either.
I had to replace my livewell through hull, using that 4” hatch... literally got my arm trapped past the elbow inside the hull! Took 5-10 minutes of contortionist maneuvers to get free. Not my finest hour.
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Coming along good. Remember to ground the fuel fill neck. Probably easiest to feed the ground wire along the fuel fill hose then couple it with your fuel sender wiring to terminal block.
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Ah yes In those pictures I had actually forgotten to feed the green ground wire, so I had the pleasure of routing it twice, bundled the ground with the fill or vent, I forget. 10 gauge green wire to a tab on the tank.
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Alright tank is In with plumbing and strapped down. sender + ground wires are connected at the tank end.
I think I got it right? Love to hear anyone’s thoughts on things I missed or could Improve before I seal the coffin Down. You’ll note I could not find pink wire (West marine doesn’t carry it) so had to improvise with red that I will tape over and mark where it exits the rigging channel.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/FD801DCA-ABB4-4DA9-ADBD-E4E2175EB797.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21667&title=fd801dca-abb4-4da9-adbd-e4e2175eb797&cat=651)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/BE5F9C20-6CB4-48FF-A0BE-5F8EAECDFA56.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21666&title=be5f9c20-6cb4-48ff-a0be-5f8eaecdfa56&cat=651)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/21A41CEF-FE99-4635-B5F3-ADCE2B1F8B91.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21665&title=21a41cef-fe99-4635-b5f3-adce2b1f8b91&cat=651)
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Looks good!!
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(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/B568899B-3E95-4022-8F62-D35C885D528B.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21679&title=tank-straps&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/BDE0015E-CA31-48E4-8769-7F666B3A2672.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21680&title=tank-straps&cat=500)
Hey Ctsalt, I am also in the same stage of installing the tank. I added/5200’d on plastic shims (dollar store cutting boards cut & heat formed to shape) for extra protection for straps to tank contact in case of any unforeseen rubbing on the tank. I once had a loose driver side wheel well plastic housing rub a pin hole over time in the transmission housing on my vehicle. The transmission housing wall thickness had to be 3/8. Not sure what the vinyl hose could do. In my tank pic it shows 4 beefy brackets I had the tank guy add that I secure to bulk heads. 2 (1/4-20) bolts on each bracket to take care of up/down and side to side movement.Also have 3/8in clearance available at the front of tank for expansion. Straps are extra insurance. Just curious are you just relying on the straps or are you foaming your tank in place also?Cheers T
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Hey Fish Head. Your tank and deck looks great. To answer your question I am not planning on adding any other methods of securing the tank. There really is not much room for the tank to move north/south or east/west. On top of the tank the fuel lines will be making contact with the coffin lid (for better or worse). There’s a little room north south maybe an inch, but I figure the straps + weight of fuel it’s not going anywhere. East/west the coffin is wider at the deck than it is in the bottom. At the bottom there really isn’t much room at all so I think I am good.
One thing that did bother me a bit is that the bottom of the coffin is not cored. The holes where the straps pass through had some significant spider cracks and signs of stress.
Is that a 170 in your picture? I like the wood and raised area on the floor where the console will sit. Did you build that? If you read earlier in my thread you’ll see I’m trying to do something similar but nowhere near as sexy. Just simple PVC board shims to keep water out.
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I am my father’s son, and we used to call my Dad “Mr. Safety”!! :D I am thinking the straps my not be enough when your jumping 2 or 3 footers once in awhile. Maybe I have been watching to many Haulover inlet videos on YouTube. The Pascoe method also had pvc brackets/boards 5200’d to the tank top for support. Another idea( I might add a couple to the sides) is too add like 2inch thick pieces of insulation foam board maybe 4 per side to limit movement. I’ts PE closed cell foam. Maybe just 2 fore/aft. Not that much surface area against the tank but limits the fore/aft - side to side movement.
Thanks for the compliment on the deck. Actually that is PVC boards on the deck and Mahogany from a big box store.lol Biscuit jointed together glued and screwed to the deck and SS T- nuts attached from the bottom that will hold down the console. Wanted to keep console serviceable. Teak was out of the budget. Used teak stain and about 5 layers of UV Spar varnish. When console sits on top just about 3/4in shows. I know I will have to maintain the wood but I like the gaudy high glossy wood accents. Wait till you see my console when finished, looks like a Buick!! Ha
Hull is a 1972 19’6.
Keep your greasy side down, Cheers
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Why did you add the shims below the console for your 196? Water seeping in? Curious how it’s worked. Silicones / 4200 and screwed down to deck?
I like your idea to use SS T nuts, I’m going to do the same. No wood for me though, although it looks awesome I have too many projects this year and need to get this boat in about a month.
I’d love to see more pics of your boat.
As for securing fuel tank, so what you’ve got to do. I am more paranoid about water getting into my fuel coffin than movement, and mines a tight squeeze as mentioned. That said there’s definitely something to be said about hundreds of pounds shifting around below deck, so I get the safety issue. The baffles should help the movement too...
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Looks great Fish Head!
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Thanks Rick!
Original teak shims were completely rotted out. Just thought it would be good idea to keep wood off the deck. They are also bolted to deck and 3M’d down. Clear Silicone between wood and PVC. Going too add water proof weather stripping and silicone between console and wood shim. Also rubber washer on the console bolts. Of course a dab of silicone in each hole with a t- nut before fastening.
I think you would be ok screwing pvc shims into your deck along with adhesive around each hole and perimeter of board. Make sure you use course grit on the deck where your shims will sit and the shims themselves, best bond wanted.
“For me” as far as your tank goes with straps only I would want minimum 2” insulation foam board wedges around the perimeter to lessen any movement Did you notice the size of the brackets on my tank.lol Maybe some of the expert builders on this site will weigh in. Just trying to save you a head ache later. As long as you are not completely foaming in and have a drain hole water should not be a issue for you at all.
I stink as far as not having a rebuild thread. It was just supposed to be a transom only fix and than I found this site of awesome builds and info and 3 years later...ahh yup.....but this is the year I finish!
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Beautiful work! :thumleft:
//Lars
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Tried my hand at fiberglass for the first time. Closes up old inspection hatch and cut a new one to for the tank so I have access to all hoses fittings and electrical ground/sender. Painted first layer on coffin lid. Jamestown distributors brand non skid (gray) and topcoat (white). Paint didn’t stick to the hardened resin to good. And topcoat didn’t stick to what used to be non skid. I didn’t see a need to use non skid paint on an area that will be completely Under my console. Guess I should have used primer to fix the first issue. Oh well, not an area that gets a lot of visibility.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/4512C2DA-F929-4324-9E9E-94BF54A5390E.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21703&title=4512c2da-f929-4324-9e9e-94bf54a5390e&cat=651)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/2C298494-FACF-40FE-BE5E-DB2EF84D0DBC.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21702&title=2c298494-facf-40fe-be5e-db2ef84d0dbc&cat=651)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/82DA4757-2A31-4482-AE00-91A8E5F9101A.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21705&title=82da4757-2a31-4482-ae00-91a8e5f9101a&cat=651)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/651/7FBF0EBD-DC62-4B22-B91F-D444A57D4A3F.jpeg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21704&title=7fbf0ebd-dc62-4b22-b91f-d444a57d4a3f&cat=651)
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Lots of progress. Console is painted and mounted, most wiring is done with new switch panel cuholders gauges etc. deck is all painted and tank coffin lid is in and sealed.
One area where I am stuck is connecting the fuel gauge. Right now I have the pink wire from fuel sender going to the fuel gauge, a ground black wire going to my bus bar, then my gauge. Last I need a wire (purple?) from the ignition switch to the gauge and I can’t seem to locate It. Help will be much appreciated. I will have many and more pictures to share soon, not that anyone wants to see my hack job.
Big thanks to fellow CAS member Brad C for lending a hand to help me remove the steering wheel!