2000 Aquasport Osprey 250 Gas Tank Replacement

[Blue Agave]

"We're on a mission from God"

[81walkaround]

ive always been kinda partial to "top gun" and "the professional".. no homo...  

[Circle Hooked]

81 i want to thank you for this topic,it hits close to home for many of us,i can't tell you how many times i looked at that tank hatch and wonderd what the heck i would do if i had to get that tank out.

[81walkaround]

you're welcome!

although... i cant say that i'm happy to be the one to have to answer the question for us.. LOL..

 :eye:

[pete]

81 i want to thank you for this topic,it hits close to home for many of us,i can't tell you how many times i looked at that tank hatch and wonderd what the heck i would do if i had to get that tank out.

X2,glad you brought the thread over from THT,keep us posted

[Capt. Bob]

I got a question.

Can water flow from the bow section (think front compartment/bilge) through the tank coffin and into the rear bilge?

Another question.
Does the tank sit on a raised section (think wood/fiberglass shelf)?

Answer yes to these and I'll add more.

Thanks.

[81walkaround]

GREAT QUESTIONS.

Can water flow from the bow section (think front compartment/bilge) through the tank coffin and into the rear bilge?

YES.. but ONLY if the drain hole in the tank coffin area is NOT PLUGGED.. mine was.. there was some dried glue-type-gunk that was broken into chunks blocking the drain.  Im convinced this contributed to the demise of my tank.

Another question.  Does the tank sit on a raised section (think wood/fiberglass shelf)?

its supposed to, mine didnt.  it was one a couple of measly rubber strips.. tiny, measly rubber pieces.

i plan on 5200'ing some 3/4" high plastic blocks on the bottom of the tank that will run the length of the whole tank (think bow to stern).  I plan on running two strips so i can leave a channel in the middle between them.  This way, water can flow around the outside of the tank, and down through the middle beneath it.  I plan on putting rubber strips under these plastic blocks for shock absorption.  this way, the tank itself does not sit on water and is not in constant contact with moisture on the bottom.  This new tank and installation method *should* outlast this boat.  There's also the braces above the tank that hold it in place as well.

[seabob4]

The PROPER way to build the boat, any boat, is to have a sub-floor in the fuel tank compartment that allows the fore compartments to drain underneath to the aft compartments.  The tank compartment itself would have a separate drain aft...

Apparently, the higher ups at AS/WC didn't think that was necessary at that time, as they allowed drainage from the fore compartments to run through the tank compartment, and any loose foam or debris that could cause a blockage would basically allow the tank to swim in water... :x  :x  :x

Sorry guys, I just built them...

[81walkaround]

seabob, what do you think about the high end boats like Contenders that foam their tanks in?... and of course, dont provide access hatches for them..

[81walkaround]

Received plastic pieces and rubber strips that the gas tank  will sit on.

once the gas tank gets here, i can 5200 the plastic strips to  the gas tank.

this will create  some distance between the floor and the tank as well as create a channel water can run beneath the tank

the plastic does not absorb moisture so there is less chance of "crevice corrosion".  

[DOCREED]

My 89 250CCP does have that hatch. So I would not have to cut it the way you did.

My Neighbor has a 29 Prosport. I was checking his house one day during the summer and noticed gas dripping out of the stern drain.

He had no deck hatch either.  They had to take the entire deck/ttop off to replace the tank.  It coast him 6K if i remember correctly.

[81walkaround]

It coast him 6K if i remember correctly.

do you remember if his tank was poly or alum?  also, what size?

so far, I'm into this project:

$1400 = tank (alum ~130 gals)

$100   = parts (plastic, rubber strips, shop supplies, etc)

I still haven't purchased:

1) the new SS Hardware I'll be using yet when i put everything back together
2) the fiberglass/resin/gelcoat
3) shipping for the tank

I'll try to post a total of costs when I'm done.

[flfisher]

My rebuild talks about the same thing with the drain holes plugged by glue or foam, causing damage to the deck. this seems to be an ongoing issue with the aquasport. We looked at another 225 just like mine where they had to cut the deck out like I am doing. If you have these models I would check those drains down in the hull to stop any type of damage this could cause. good luck with the rebuild.

[seabob4]

seabob, what do you think about the high end boats like Contenders that foam their tanks in?... and of course, dont provide access hatches for them..

My take on foaming in tanks.  While foaming will certainly ensure a secure install, the problem lies in keeping ANY kind of water out of the tank compartment.  Water has an insidious way of getting in between the foam and the tank, where it is trapped, and thus just sits there and starts to work it's corrosive magic on the tank, as well as degrading the foam until it gets to this point...



This was on an older Mako 224, where the foam had turned to jelly, and there was also evidence of a tank leak (smell).  Now, granted, today's foams are a lot better from a physical characteristic standpoint as opposed to foams used 15-20 years ago.  Nonetheless, keeping water out of the tank compartment is paramount.

Contender is not the only builder that foams in their tanks.  That's their call.  Myself?  I'd use a poly tank, build the tank compartment properly (totally separate from any other compartment, with it's own drainage), and install truly waterproof inspection hatches over the fill/vent fittings and the sender/pickup area.

Just the way I would do it...

[saltfly]

Bob what hatches would you use, to be truly water proof?