More AS history found

[JimCt]

In consultation & advice from steved, I have obtained about 2 pounds of old literature, specs., price & option lists, articles and sales brochures dating back as far as 1966.  Once logistics have been worked out about how best to do it, I hope to have hi-rez scans of everything available for download.  How soon, I don't know.

I've just started glancing through the materials but have already learned answers to quite a few of the questions which have been raised on the board concerning the concept, design & construction of the boats.

Examples:
 
Meet the designer & his boat:




Anyone have this option?



Factory picture of a 170 liner:



Another of the hull.  Good view of the stringer layout:

Along with these pictures is a description of the glass layup sequence, gelcoat specs. and other technical data.

Goes without saying it'll be a big project to get everything catalogued, scanned and made available to everyone.  Hopefully you'll find this material of interest and maybe will answer some questions about your boat.

[Mark Sr]

Capt Jim,
 Do you have any info on a 1976 24' side console with an I/O
 I'm looking for specs such as engine sizes and hp configurations,and any
 pictures with original equipment.
 Thanks

[RickK]

Jackpot!!
Looks like some good stuff - already learned some from them.  Where'd you find this treasure chest?

[JimCt]

Hi Mark Sr,

In with the stack of stuff is a 1971(?) brochure for the side console 240 Sea Hunter showing options.  I also have an undated price sheet itemizing std. equipment and optional equipment. Lastly, there's a dated 1971 two page brochure devoted to the side console.  Hopefully downloadable scans will be available once logistics are settled.

To answer some of your questions, the power options, at least in '71 were a 155 OMC for $7795, a 215 OMC for $8195, a 140 Mercruiser for 7595 and a 165 Mercruiser for $7795.  The undated and, I presume, later brochure lists a 225 OMC @ 40mph, a 188Mercruiser @ 36 mph, a 165 mercruiser @ 34 mph and a 155 OMC @ 32 mph.

You'll have to wait for the scans to see the original equipment, but in text form there was standard: nav lights, deck hardware, bow rail, bilge blower, rope deck pipe, 74g aluminum tank, S.S. towing eye, battery & box, carpeted cabin sides(?), teak step pads & cutting board, 2 transom boxes for live bait w/overboard drain, insulated fish box w/drain, non-skid decks, private head, teak rod racks, f'glass helm chair w/cushions, direct reading fuel gauge and semi-rigid vinyl guard rail.

Options were marine head, Rule bilge pump, pedestal fishing chair, bow & stern lifting gear, night cockpit lighting, extra 40g fuel tank, springline cleats, pair rod holders, 15' outriggers, full length cockpit cover, sun top w/boot, fwd shelter top, clear windshield, rear drop curtain w/zipper door & screen, console cover, aft cockpit upholstery, engine box cushion, various cushions, teak cabin doors & f'glass hatch in substitution for vinyl zipper door, teak grid insert between seat lockers to form level casting platform or full width berth, cushion to fit grid for use as berth, mini-tower, dual controls installed w/tower.

Brochure pictures show happy 1971-style family enjoying their new (optioned-out) boat and some 1971 fishermen fishing.  Some good views of the canvaswork offered.

There's likely more here about your boat but that's what I find so far.

BTW, I'm just crew.  Captain is the captain.

[JimCt]

Rick,

Before I answer your question, DID YOU GO SEE THE FLATBACK?

[JimCt]

Rick,

One tid-bit.  Your console is original. You have a first-generation 170.

[Seadog]

Great find!

Your the man, Jim!

[RickK]

Rick,

Before I answer your question, DID YOU GO SEE THE FLATBACK?

The guy hasn't responded to my email.  I posted the question of where to see it twice. He has responded to someone asking to part it out though. :cry:  I'm in Chicago right now anyway (would love to go see it - it's cold up here), be home this weekend.

One tid-bit. Your console is original. You have a first-generation 170.

So back then, a seat/livewell/cooler in front of it was not standard.  They thought seats are for sissy's I guess (thats what I tell my wife anyway). What about my windshield? Thanks bud.

[JimCt]

Console with the seat in front was an option.  170 deck space is at a premium and, since these were conceived for fishing, max. walk-around space was a priority.  Coburn also offered a factory option of locating the console where the customer wanted it.  Aft cleats on the first generation boats were mounted like yours.

In looking over the factory construction sequence, I'm beginning to wonder about another way to replace the floor plywood and the transom core.  The 170 inner liner is attached to the hull with 1" S.S. screws 6" on center and the rub-rail secured with 1.5" screws 6" o.c. staggered 3" from the first screws.  Screws land in a hardwood gunwale flange glassed to the hull.  You can see the wood flange in the picture I posted above.  Transom area where there is no rub-rail looks possibly to have been simply glass taped; article wasn't clear about that though.  Would it not be easier to simply reverse the assembly sequence and unscrew the liner from the hull & grind off the transom tape?  From that point the liner could be lifted off, flipped over and stripped of the old ply.  With the liner off the transom ply core, which is glassed to the hull, would be exposed.  With this rebuild method the liner would be kept intact & glass work reduced to a minimum.  Maybe someone's tried this method already...?

Something else I didn't know. The three stringers were molded as a one piece unit and glassed to the hull as such.

[RickK]

The 170 inner liner is attached to the hull with 1" S.S. screws 6" on center and the rub-rail secured with 1.5" screws 6" o.c. staggered 3" from the first screws.  Screws land in a hardwood gunwale flange glassed to the hull.  You can see the wood flange in the picture I posted above.  Transom area where there is no rub-rail looks possibly to have been simply glass taped; article wasn't clear about that though.  Would it not be easier to simply reverse the assembly sequence and unscrew the liner from the hull & grind off the transom tape?  From that point the liner could be lifted off, flipped over and stripped of the old ply.  With the liner off the transom ply core, which is glassed to the hull, would be exposed.  With this rebuild method the liner would be kept intact & glass work reduced to a minimum.  Maybe someone's tried this method already...?

I remember all those screws when I replaced that "dirty" rubrail.  I thought about removing the liner but didn't know how - so I cut out the floor instead.

Something else I didn't know. The three stringers were molded as a one piece unit and glassed to the hull as such.

I remember this and it was not glassed in everywhere - was loose in places.  I don't remember the center stringer going all the way to the transom though.  I had an inspection plate about center, if I remember correctly, dead center into a tiny bilge.
This is good stuff Jim.
What about my windshield?

[JimCt]

Your windshield remains a mystery.  None of the literature I've reviewed so far shows anything similar to what you've got.  Are there any other old filled screw holes in the consile which might indicate a previous windshield?  It appears that Coburn was making constant changes all along so it may be that he built some boats with your setup.

[warthog5]

It slaves me how they chop a big section out of the stringer's like that. My Mako is the same way. From a engineering stand point, they have weakend the hell out of the stringer.

It's much, much stronger to use a holesaw and cut a hole thru it's middle. then install a tube in the hole.

[JimCt]

The trough in the liner isn't nearly that deep... at least in my boat.  Maybe the stringer mold for later boats corrected this weakness.

[Mark Sr]

Thanks for getting back to me.The boat is a Sea Hunter from what I've seen from a picture in one of the brochures on this site. The valve covers say 235hp on them but I can't tell what year or cube the motor is because we can't see the numbers.It has an OMC stringer outdrive with the electric shift. The motor runs but has a valve tap in it. If I replace the motor I'd like to keep it original.Any pics or more info would be helpful.Thanks

[JimCt]

Mark Sr,

Found a bit more info. in the form of an article recounting a shakedown cruise down the Keys Coburn & three other guys took in two 24's. One boat had an OMC outdrive, the other twin outboards.  Haven't had a chance to read thoroughly but more info. may lurk there.   Both boats were fresh out of the factory so they were likely representative of stock configs.  Don't know yet if the article has the type of data you're looking for.

I'm thinking the fastest way to get this stack of literature out to the group is to get a scanner & put everything on a CD.  From there maybe some way can be worked out to get the scans online. Gonna be lots of big files though... Failing an online solution, I could make CD copies & make them available.

Concerning your engine, try to find the model and S/N plate if you can.  One resource I've had good luck with for dating engines based on this info. is www.themarinedoctor.com There is an outboards and sterndrives section on his board.  If you send what information you have perhaps he can track down the year of the motor for you.  He is a certified Merc. Tech.