'79 200cc Rebuild

[NewGuy55]

Hello all, new member & first post here on the forum. Currently living in Tampa, Florida. I've become a fan of the Aquasport brand for a while & decided to pull the trigger on a "project" boat about 2 months ago. I ended up purchasing a '79 Aquasport 200cc. It was powered by a Johnson 200 that seemed a little shabby & sure enough on the day of purchase the previous owner couldn't get it started. I instead purchased from another seller a '93 Yamaha 200hp 2-Stroke for the repower that sounded great, shifted smooth & had good compression, 115-120 in all cylinders.

The boat was in fair condition, knew it would require some work but as I dug into things a bit I realized it needed more than I had planned for. Not a big deal, I wanted a project & have no timetable as to when I want this finished, I just want it done right. Not only will I have satisfaction of doing the majority of the work to bring this bad boy back to life myself, but with it being my first boat - I find a lot of comfort knowing that I'll know everything about this boat from the ground up if some problems should arise, & I'm certain they will.

So, as it stands right now I've cut out the whole floor & plan to lay a new one with some marine ply. I've already had a new aluminum tank fabricated (70-75 Gall) as the one in the floor was pitted & not in usable condition. Stringers are in good shape structurally, foam in them is dry but there was some delamination in sections that I've already addressed.

At the moment, I'm in the process of removing the rotted coring of the transom (working from the inside). I'm hoping that by getting the majority of that dirty work done on my own, I could get a fair price from a shop for a transom rebuild. I'm liking the idea of going coosa for that & willing to pay the extra on materials to do so. I've searched this forum along with others & have been in contact with shops on estimates but I'm still open to hearing about others if anyone has recommendations.

I'm back to work & limited on time to work on taking out the rotted coring of the transom. I'll probably be chipping away at it for a little while before I get it into a shop for a rebuild but aside from that I'm kind of at a standstill - can't lay the deck until the transom is done.

Anyhow, I just wanted to introduce myself on the board, fill you guys in on the project & look forward to learning even more than I already have from you guys for my build.

[dbiscayne]

nice little boat for a project. Before you get too far along with the demo figure out a way to measure exactly where the top of the transom is so that when you rebuild you know it's at the right height.
When I tore out my transom I also left the outer skin intact. Lots of cuts with a circular saw just be careful with blade depth, also used a sawzall near the edges. By making lots of cuts and creating workable squares that I could pry out with a crowbar most of the wood came out pretty quick.  Then get nasty with a grinder.
You'll also have to remove several inches of the stringers where they butt up to the transom, again the sawzall makes quick work of this. My original wood cored transom was glassed AFTER the stringers were placed in the hull, so the foam in the stringers ends up against raw wood thats where most of my rot was.
If you can handle some glass work I'd add fillets to all the corners of the inner transom then glass from the transom to the hull sides & bottom - before you hand over the boat for someone else to do the main transom work.
When done with the transom it's pretty easy to form & glass the replacement section of stringers.
Does yours have boxed stringers along the chines in addition to the two main stringers? Just curious if they still did this in '79.

[NewGuy55]

dbiscayne - I appreciate the tips & can report back that that has been the plan as I've been working through gutting this transom. I've used a combination of a circular saw, an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc & a good ol' weighted hammer/ chisel. I've already cut back the stringers & did so with a sawzall type of tool (reciprocating blade).I made some good progress this past week & I'm probably about 40% through the task.

The plan is to have the transom closed off entirely &  put a jack plate or outboard motor bracket. Nonetheless I know that the top portion of this original design is exactly 25" from the bottom. Also, can report that there are no stringers along the chines, just the 2 long ones that run stern to bow.

For whatever reason I'm struggling to figure out how to add pictures here but will work on figuring that out.

[mshugg]

Is it a CCP!  I’m guessing because it’s a 79 and you’re calling it a 20 that it is, because the Osprey was badged as a 196 in those days.  I rebuilt a 200CCP With Armstrong bracket that hit the water a year ago.  It’s performing great with a Merc four stroke 150.  Good luck on your rebuild.  Gotta get so me pictures up.

[NewGuy55]

mshugg - Yes, its a ccp - 20 feet, 2 inches I believe is what it says on the title.

Any tricks on adding pictures? Every time it says the file is too large

[mshugg]

mshugg - Yes, its a ccp - 20 feet, 2 inches I believe is what it says on the title.

Any tricks on adding pictures? Every time it says the file is too large

Rick or a Bob will probably chime in with directions for posting pictures, but it’s really easy.  The first thing you need to do is upload your pictures into the Gallery then copy and paste a link.  The CAS Gallery is by far, the easiest photo hosting I’ve ever used.

[RickK]

If you want to post a pic when you talk about your boat, which you should, follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0  - don't attach them - you are limited by file size. Uploading them into your "member gallery" is better for viewing.
Spend a few minutes to absorb the instructions. It's really easy. Remember if using a phone to take pics, to hold the phone horizontal with the lens to the left.

[NewGuy55]

RickK - appreciate the help! Hope this works!

The below are pictures when I first purchased it.











Below are some pictures from the fuel tank & hatch restore - new fuel tank was custom made by Scotts Quality Welding in Homossasa - made some skis out of starboard











Below are just a few pictures once I got under the floor & started working on stringers, cut out some of the rear consoles & began gutting the core of the transom.









I'll add more as I make some actual significant process - I'm short on time to work on gutting the transom at the moment & it's definitely not the quickest of jobs!

[RickK]

Wow, lots of progress!!!
I think I would use a Sterling blade on a jig saw and cut the splashwell out carefully so you can get to the transom. You can glass it back together later. Get good measurements across the hull before the cut and attach a 2x2 or 2x4 across the gunwale tops at rear above the transom. It doesn't look like the factory ran the core across the entire transom, that's strange. Personally I would run the new core across the entire transom and tie it into the hullsides and bottom. My $.02
BTW, was that trough to the starboard aft from the console a factory install? I've not seen that in all the years I've been on this site.

[NewGuy55]

Wow, lots of progress!!!
I think I would use a Sterling blade on a jig saw and cut the splashwell out carefully so you can get to the transom. You can glass it back together later. Get good measurements across the hull before the cut and attach a 2x2 or 2x4 across the gunwale tops at rear above the transom. It doesn't look like the factory ran the core across the entire transom, that's strange. Personally I would run the new core across the entire transom and tie it into the hullsides and bottom. My $.02
BTW, was that trough to the starboard aft from the console a factory install? I've not seen that in all the years I've been on this site.

RickK - I bought it mid June & the majority of the work was done until mid July. For a first-timer,  I'm happy at the progress that I did make but wish I had just a little longer before I headed back to work. I'll take your advice on cutting out that splashwell carefully. My intentions at the moment are not for me to build the transom but gut it so that I can hand it off to someone with more experience to do it. I've debated doing it myself but for such an important part of the boat thats going to take time, energy & money... I would prefer having someone experienced & reputable doing that work. The person I've talked to but has not committed to doing the work yet because I havent received a quote is planning to use coosa. As I had said earlier, he's reputable & has glowing reviews from people on this board & others.  With that, I want him to close it off too. As for the trough, I can't speak from too much experience but it does look like that was factory. It's pretty functional & I'll likely use a similar setup for the rigging, just havent decided if its going to stay right there.

A question for everyone & I know so much of this varies - how much would you expect this transom job to cost? I've done my research and know many people will say that 4-6k range is likely, especially using coosa... but what if I'm doing the gutting of it & all I'm paying for is basically for it to be built back up. Yes, thats materials + labor but what would be the price mark most of you would be comfortable paying after doing the "hard work" of gutting the core.

Appreciate all & any feedback/information.

[mshugg]

NewGuy your boat looks really clean. It looks like it was never painted, bottom or otherwise.  That should save you lots of time and money.  My 1979 200 CCP had a similar trough, but since it is glassed to the floor and lacks the screwed down cover (like 170/196), it’s not obvious.  I cut mine up and threw it away with my rotted deck.

I have no idea about what to expect to pay for a transom rebuild.  I suspect there is a lot of variation depending on where you’re located.  You may be able to get an idea by costing out materials, and estimating 15 to 20 hours labor at whatever shop rates are in you’re area.

[NewGuy55]

NewGuy your boat looks really clean. It looks like it was never painted, bottom or otherwise.  That should save you lots of time and money.  My 1979 200 CCP had a similar trough, but since it is glassed to the floor and lacks the screwed down cover (like 170/196), it’s not obvious.  I cut mine up and threw it away with my rotted deck.

I have no idea about what to expect to pay for a transom rebuild.  I suspect there is a lot of variation depending on where you’re located.  You may be able to get an idea by costing out materials, and estimating 15 to 20 hours labor at whatever shop rates are in you’re area.

mshugg - When I initially bought it I knew some work had to be done, but didn't anticipate doing the stringers, floor & transom. But hey, the more I dug the more I saw things weren't perfect & I've got the rest of my life to enjoy the boat, so taking the time to do the work right now just seemed right. I haven't got too far into even thinking about paint, one thing at a time as I'm very much still learning as I go. That said, I think a good buff/wax & I should get some shine out of it. Once this transom is repaired & I lay the floor down, I'll start thinking about paint & what I want to do aesthetically.

Another general question - I'm going to re-foam where I initially took out. I was told by the guy down at FGCI that the 2lb would work fine, do you find that to be accurate? Additionally, when you actually pour the foam, would you do so after the floor is in to have good adhesion to the floor and some possible support from the bottom? I planned on doing it that way but cutting out some smaller holes than resealing, but I've seen some videos on youtube of people pouring it first, leveling it off & then laying the floor over it.

[mshugg]

2 pound foam is perfect for flotation foam  if you need to re-foam inside your stringers, 4;pound is better there. That’s how she left the factory. 

If you foam after the floor is down, you’ll have holes to fill in the deck, plus you’re likely to have voids.  It’s probably better to pour the foam before you lay the floor, level it, and if you’re cautious seal it prior to seating the deck.  The bond between deck and stringers and the sides is much more important than the foam bonding to underside of deck.

[NewGuy55]

2 pound foam is perfect for flotation foam  if you need to re-foam inside your stringers, 4;pound is better there. That’s how she left the factory. 

If you foam after the floor is down, you’ll have holes to fill in the deck, plus you’re likely to have voids.  It’s probably better to pour the foam before you lay the floor, level it, and if you’re cautious seal it prior to seating the deck.  The bond between deck and stringers and the sides is much more important than the foam bonding to underside of deck.

Mshugg- got it, glad the 2lb will work since I bought it already. Foam inside the stringers are dry so I lucked out without having to re-do that. I just realized which project is yours and I have to say your boat is a big inspiration to what I'm trying to do! Actually, if I could get mine half as nice as yours then I'll be VERY happy!

[NewGuy55]

It's been a while- I'm back to work & have been waiting on someone to take on my transom rebuild. He's been busy, so I'm being patient. About two weeks ago I believe I got completed my portion of removing the coring & getting the transom down to the fiberglass. I do plan on hitting it with my sander a tad bit more before I bring it in but I think I'm pretty much done with it. Apologies for not being able to get better pictures, my cell phone was dying & a thunder storm was coming & I wanted to pack up all the tools before they got wet!