22 ff rebuild

[Fishhead]

Finally after fruit season done time to start the boat rebuild from New York. Fuel tank sender turned to powder, tank looks nasty replace in order with new hoses. Please tell me the bracing behind the tank wasn’t a factory option. Tag on tank is 86 gallon. Deck is coming out for soft spots and fill in IO hole in deck.

[Fishhead]

Opening up the deck tomarrow

[Fishhead]

Check out the tub that housed the stern drive engine that’s above the bilge to trap drainage water below it. That will need fixing.

[RickK]

Looks like it had a small bracket on it?

[Fishhead]

Hi rick, yes just a single bracket, looks like I’ll be into the transom next. I will have my try at Coosa.
I see all the rebuilds take out the foam between stringer and gunnel do they put it back in or do without? I see if water gets in that area it would never drain with foam.

[Fishhead]

One more question, do you hole saw  random test holes half way down stringers to check the foam, and what is normal Coosa board thickness you use? Thanks guys

[RickK]

Ahhh, so the boat was never an i/o, just had the liner for it. Are you going to cut that out?
You can use a hole saw to drill exploratory holes in the stringers.  I think you'll find only a little bit of the foam wet in the aft, if any, unless the boat was sunk.  I would guess the foam in the outboard side of the stringers was for sound deadening and flotation.  If you're going to remove it I would drill holes and glass in some pvc pipe in the aft end of the stringers so water can get to the bilge. I think I would put foam back in the stringers and the outboard side again. 4lb in the stingers and 2 lb for flotation.
Did you get the gas tank coffin with the boat?

[Fishhead]

Yea it was a IO, I brought it back from S.C. the Owner took off the 150 merc 2 stroke controls etc.
 Don’t know the year the IO was pulled and bracket installed but I’m sure the transom was bad at that time.Looks like the inner liner on the transom is all tied into the tub and tub tabbed to stringers and deck. Tub is on the way out tomorrow, not serving any purpose. After transom I’ll build some knees.

[RickK]

Sounds like a plan.

[Fishhead]

Well making some progress but slowed down with the 100 plus weather, transom was a rotten mess. Cut out prior hack job on outer skin glasswork, don’t look like they feathered out and laid glass, or why made hole so big. What is the white stuff they used to bed the glass under the tub,and is a chipping hammer the best thing to use? I’m about ready to break out my #15 chipping hammer stuff is tough.

[RickK]

It's probably the same bonding putty that was used everywhere to stick the liner down.  The transom inner liner and engine tub was part the total liner that was lowered into the hull into that bonding putty. Any progress is good progress.

Don't forget that it is easier to upload pics to your member gallery (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=290) - that way you don't have to manually size them because the gallery automatically sizes them for best viewing.  There is also no size limit like there is if you attach the pics. .
Follow the instructions here http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0

[Fishhead]

I noticed a horizontal crack above drain plug, not sure if I damaged it removing wood or not. Should I  v it out and fill with epoxy and glass or just cut along crack and make hole lower?


I have more grinding to do, I want to lay 3 layers of 1708 down inside of transom , is it best to melamine on inside over hole and do my repair on outside first, then pull melamine and lay the 3 layers on the inside then the core? I’m thinking that way I only have to fair one side? What do you guys think is the best route. Thanks

[RickK]

Couple questions:
Are you going back with the bracket the PO had on it?
What is the general overall condition of the outside transom skin?
What are you going to use for coring on the transom?
Have you thought about the drain holes going out the sides of the hull?  I think you'll end up covering them as you do the 4/8/12" overlaps of the first 3 layers of 1708, plus the coring, plus the next 2-3 layers of 1708 as you build a strong transom.
Are you planning to cut the stringers back some more to allow the overlap room - you should allow 18" of work room.

Crack:  I would lightly grind the outside to remove the bottom paint and take a look at the crack.

As I think about filling the i/o hole I think, after you clean up the inside of the transom to get to bare glass, I would bevel the inside of the hole down to about a 2-3" bevel all around.  Then I would put some melamine across the outside of the hole and patch the hole with increasingly bigger patches of 1708, wet on wet - probably going to need 4-6 layers to build it up to the thickness of the current transom skin. This will also fill in the current center drain plug.

I'll let you think about this.....

[Fishhead]

Thanks Rick  1 yes going back with original bracket
                    2 outer transom skin look good
                     3 I have 2 sheets 3/4 marine ply for core and 3 sheets for deck already
                       4  I will cover up and plug the side Drains hoping the deck coming up a inch I can
                            still do the same as before but above the waterline still using a sump like before
                          5  yea I need to cut stringers back more.
                              Sounds like a good plan filling the hole from inside first I will go that route
                               Again thanks to you and the site a wealth of information to go on

[RickK]

What were the holes in the side(s) used for, the i/o raw water in/out? If I had to do my redeck design over again I would plan a 3" deep, maybe 2 inch across gutter across transom with the scupper holes deep in the gutter. Even if the scuppers are under water a bit, you have 3" to handle the water in and out.
What I ended up with was level with the deck and there is always stuff in the corners, etc. I designed it, I have to live with it.
Since you're adding knees to the transom I assume you're adding a fascade across the back to hide all that.  Have to figure out how you're going to drain the blood off your deck efficiently.

Also plan for a change in the low point in your boat:
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262