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Author Topic: Transom Rebuild  (Read 5634 times)

June 03, 2006, 03:15:49 PM
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Scotta1973

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Transom Rebuild
« on: June 03, 2006, 03:15:49 PM »
Does anyone see any major issues with this approach to transom replacement?

http://www.boatbuilding.net/article.pl? ... ode=thread  

Thanks for the feedback!

Scott

June 04, 2006, 08:17:50 AM
Reply #1

RickK

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« Reply #1 on: June 04, 2006, 08:17:50 AM »
He kept referring to a "boat shown here" but I couldn't see one - would have been better to see pics of what he was doing.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

June 05, 2006, 07:22:31 AM
Reply #2

Scotta1973

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« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2006, 07:22:31 AM »
it basically looked like this



[/img]

With a little more old transome showing around the cap edge

June 06, 2006, 05:37:44 AM
Reply #3

RickK

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« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2006, 05:37:44 AM »
So he was proposing doing it from the outside instead of the inside.  I thought the idea was that you did it from the inside to preserve the factory "skin" of gelcoat so it still looks factory?  This way looks like it requires more finishing expertise.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

June 06, 2006, 09:57:27 AM
Reply #4

Scotta1973

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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2006, 09:57:27 AM »
But he is also suggesting keeping the "skin" so that you can simply put that back on and then tape the seams so it will be less finishing I guess.

June 06, 2006, 06:32:15 PM
Reply #5

RickK

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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2006, 06:32:15 PM »
I think the people here using the inside out approach have the right idea myself.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

June 06, 2006, 09:16:55 PM
Reply #6

LilRichard

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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2006, 09:16:55 PM »
Isn't the problem with an inside out process that you have to cut out some of the floor?

June 06, 2006, 09:35:51 PM
Reply #7

JimCt

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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2006, 09:35:51 PM »
Pros & cons both ways.  Then there is the third way by pulling the liner.  Seems to me, whatever way the job is done it should be fine, assuming the work is done properly.  

From the looks of the ply in the pictured transom, it doesn't appear all that bad.  When they're really gone the ply is mostly black.
JimCT
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\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

June 07, 2006, 09:14:34 AM
Reply #8

Scotta1973

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« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2006, 09:14:34 AM »
That is the picture of my boat and the reason it doesn't look black in the picture is because the wood (except that in the "lip") has already been removed. What you are seeing is the grain of the plywood in the fiberglass. If you look around the edges you can see a decent amount of black especially around the bottom edge.

This is a more recent picture with the edges "ground back" I was just wondering if the approach in the above mentioned article seemed a reasonable one. I will be painting the entire boat so I am comfortable that I will be able to get the 'look' right.


June 08, 2006, 05:44:30 AM
Reply #9

RickK

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« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2006, 05:44:30 AM »
Wow, I never caught that - that the wood had already been removed - the grain in the fiberglass fooled my eyes.
On the lower picture it looks like you've already replaced the wood to me - optical illusion again?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

June 08, 2006, 09:11:10 AM
Reply #10

Scotta1973

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« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2006, 09:11:10 AM »
That is what 30 years in the hull will do I guess.

I am just hoping the approach in the link is a good one because I would hate to lose a motor to an ill-concieved approach, but the link was originally from the Jamestown Distr. website and I think they are pretty solid on the technical side.

June 15, 2006, 01:24:18 PM
Reply #11

Resurrection812

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« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2006, 01:24:18 PM »
Instead of going with two sheets of 3/4 marine ply, I chose to replace it with 3 sheets of 1/2 glass together with a 2 oz mat inbetween.  I also believe that leaving the outer skin is the way to go.  This allows you cut the splash well out and raise it to the deck level.  Then you can raise the drains.  I am currently doing this to a 86 22-2 and will try to get pics up first thing monday.  Good luck.

June 16, 2006, 09:10:16 AM
Reply #12

Scotta1973

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« Reply #12 on: June 16, 2006, 09:10:16 AM »
Interestingly there wasn't an engine well on this and the deck was already raised.

As you can see from the pictures I have also removed the deck so the new deck will be a bit higher, I am actually progressing very nicely and may have the new deck on by the end of the weekend. I have also pretty much finished up on the transom, I will post new pictures on Monday.


Scott

June 16, 2006, 10:10:48 AM
Reply #13

JimCt

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« Reply #13 on: June 16, 2006, 10:10:48 AM »
Are you saying the deck was already raised as a result of a previous rebuild?  How will you lay the new deck... over the remaining shelf of the other?
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

June 17, 2006, 04:49:12 PM
Reply #14

Scotta1973

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« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2006, 04:49:12 PM »
The deck was not already raised; I am laying the new deck over the shelf of the old deck and building up the stringers to accommodate the increase in height.

 

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