Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter => Controls, Steering, and Trim Tabs => Topic started by: 225Explor on June 07, 2011, 06:13:10 PM
-
what is a good trim tab setup for 225 Aqua WA ? Thanks, as you may notice, I am new here and just purchased a 95 225 Explorer WA, so I am asking lots of questions.
-
I have a set od 12x12 lenco's for sale. Let me know if you are interested.
-
Bennetts are the old favorite and have some of the best customer service you will find. The Volvo QL series are a newer design that is getting some good reviews.
-
I have a set od 12x12 lenco's for sale. Let me know if you are interested.
What are you looking to get for them and what is included ?Thanks for the reply.
Mike R
-
Mike,
Remember, your Explorer has trim tab pockets, make sure the 12 X 12s fit in those pockets. I think we used Bennett 12 X 9s...
-
These guys are steering you right - Bennett tabs are the best from a service perspective. Lencos are fine too - I used them in my rebuild because they save space... but probably would have gone Bennett otherwise.
-
Also, if you go with the Bennett's....we have great troubleshooting help right here the board through the Bennett rep, a great CA member :thumright:
-
i put a set of Bennett 12x9 sport tabs on my boat, they made a helluva difference.
lenco's just dont last as long as Bennett's... i see them quit working all the time at my work, and 90% of the time they get stuck in the DOWN position, and boats with the recessed tab pockets or extended platforms, we wont know they're down till you hear that famous "pop-crunch" sound when hauling the boat out of the water
go with Bennett!
heres the link to my tab thread:
http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/ ... f=5&t=6615 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6615)
-
i put a set of Bennett 12x9 sport tabs on my boat, they made a helluva difference.
lenco's just dont last as long as Bennett's... i see them quit working all the time at my work, and 90% of the time they get stuck in the DOWN position, and boats with the recessed tab pockets or extended platforms, we wont know they're down till you hear that famous "pop-crunch" sound when hauling the boat out of the water
go with Bennett!
heres the link to my tab thread:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6615 (http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6615)
Exactly!
Check the quick support from Tabman...doesn't get any better!
-
These guys are steering you right - Bennett tabs are the best from a service perspective. Lencos are fine too - I used them in my rebuild because they save space... but probably would have gone Bennett otherwise.
I have to agree,unless space is an issue which it won't be on that boat,go with Bennett,i have the 12x9 on my boat and they work great.
-
Thanks for the info everyone............my 225 does have the trim tab pockets, Tabman suggested the 12x10 M120's but I see others here are using 12x9's Are the M120's made for limited space ???
-
Thanks for the info everyone............my 225 does have the trim tab pockets, Tabman suggested the 12x10 M120's but I see others here are using 12x9's Are the M120's made for limited space ???
Measure the width at he bottom of the tab pocket, this will be your guide as to what will fit...
And there is no better in the business than Tom (Tabman)... :thumleft: :thumleft:
-
For what ever it's worth i went out and measured mine and they are 12 x 8 :scratch:
-
Thanks for the info everyone............my 225 does have the trim tab pockets, Tabman suggested the 12x10 M120's but I see others here are using 12x9's Are the M120's made for limited space ???
225 Explor,
Is there any way I can get a picture of the pockets with some measurements? I'd like to see what would fit best.
Tom McGow
Bennett Marine
-
Do the pockets look like this?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n109/tlmcgow/aquasport-225-explorer-48.jpg)
The Trim Tab in the photo is a 12 x 9. If it were my boat I would put the M120s in the same place, but just a bit further inboard so the Trim Tab starts where the chine flat ends.
Tom
Bennett Marine
-
Gee, Tom, who needs a pic when you have them all? :wink: That would be the Explorer/Osprey bottom... :thumleft:
-
Gee, Tom, who needs a pic when you have them all? :wink: That would be the Explorer/Osprey bottom... :thumleft:
Google is my best friend 8)
-
Tom, yes that appears to be the same type of tab pocket on my 225 Explor........I will measure my pockets and give you those numbers as soon as I get to my boat......Is that a 225 Explor in the picture ??
Thanks for everyones help so far, just making sure I get the correct size.
-
I am pretty sure it's a 225, that's what the info said!
If it looks anything like this, based on the 12 x 9 that is in the picture, the M120s will fit just great.
Tom
Bennett Marine
-
Yeah, Tom, you just googled further than I did... :shock:
The 225 and the 245/250 have the same pockets, so the tabs will be the same. God knows I installed enough of them, it was just that the last set I installed on an Osprey/Explorer was probably 13 years ago...
-
Do the pockets look like this?
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n109/tlmcgow/aquasport-225-explorer-48.jpg)
The Trim Tab in the photo is a 12 x 9. If it were my boat I would put the M120s in the same place, but just a bit further inboard so the Trim Tab starts where the chine flat ends.
Tom
Bennett Marine
That looks like my setup,problem is you can't move the tab farther inboard because that pocket gets smaller and you couldn't mount the acuator without bending it back out ward.
-
The M120 is 10" on the transom vs. the 12" on the one in the picture, plus the actuator (ram) is 2" shorter so it should fit right at the chine flat.
Tom
Bennett Marine
-
I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well. What size would work for my boat? And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor? What amperage does the motor pull? And does the count include the main power wire? When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!
-
I am pretty sure it's a 225, that's what the info said!
If it looks anything like this, based on the 12 x 9 that is in the picture, the M120s will fit just great.
Tom
Bennett Marine
Thanks Tom, looking forward to getting my M120's
Mike R
-
The M120 is 10" on the transom vs. the 12" on the one in the picture, plus the actuator (ram) is 2" shorter so it should fit right at the chine flat.
Tom
Bennett Marine
Oh ok,that would work,i thought i might be missing something,thanks Tom.
-
For those that keep their boats in the water, do you paint(bottom paint) your tabs and actuators.......does it affect their performance or functions ??
-
I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well. What size would work for my boat? And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor? What amperage does the motor pull? And does the count include the main power wire? When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!
This is the way Bennett tabs are wired...
The HPU (pump) has a 4-pin flat connector coming off it, as well a 16GA ground wire off the back side of the pump. If the pump is to mounted at the transom, ground that either to a ground bus or the batt. The Bennett kit comes with about a 25' harness that simply plugs into the 4-pin off the HPU. Run that forward to the helm, where it plugs into a mating connector off the switch. The switch has an orange power wire protected by a 20A fuse, I wire it to a switched source.
Simple as that. Fill the reservoir in the pump on the bench before you install it (makes spills that much easier to deal with), standard ATF will do. Connect your hoses, starboard to the "S" fitting on the pump, port to "P". Cycle the tabs a couple of times, check your fluid level at the pump, top off to the line, you're good to go...
-
For those that keep their boats in the water, do you paint(bottom paint) your tabs and actuators.......does it affect their performance or functions ??
Paint the tab, you can paint the actuator as it won't hurt it, but it doesn't need paint, the actuators are a Nylon composite material, non-reactive in any kind of water.
If you have zincs on your tabs, DO NOT paint them!
-
A little trick on installing the pump bracket. On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight. The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose. The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...
Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this... :wink:
-
I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well. What size would work for my boat? And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor? What amperage does the motor pull? And does the count include the main power wire? When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!
Seabob nailed most of your questions.
The motor is fused at 20 amps and draws maybe 15-16 amps Tops in-rush current. I would choose the M120s for your 200cp. I had the M120s on my old Aquasport 20 WA and they were perfect.
Tom
Bennett Marine
-
A little trick on installing the pump bracket. On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight. The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose. The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...
Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this... :wink:
No problems with that Bob :D As log as the pump is snug in the bracket that's fine!
Tom
-
A little trick on installing the pump bracket. On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight. The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose. The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...
Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this... :wink:
No problems with that Bob :D As log as the pump is snug in the bracket that's fine!
Tom
Ahh, you know that little "trick"... :salut:
-
For those that keep their boats in the water, do you paint(bottom paint) your tabs and actuators.......does it affect their performance or functions ??
Paint the tab, you can paint the actuator as it won't hurt it, but it doesn't need paint, the actuators are a Nylon composite material, non-reactive in any kind of water.
If you have zincs on your tabs, DO NOT paint them!
A little clarification; don't paint the zincs and make sure not to paint under them as well. The zinc must contact the bare stainless of the Trim Tab to make a good electrical connection in order to protect it.
It is OK to paint the actuator to keep stuff from growing in it, just abrade it with a "scrubbie" and apply bottom paint. You can extend the shaft and pain that as well since the seal is made on the piston face up inside the cylinder body.
When you bottom paint the stainless Trim Tabs check with the manufacturer of your bottom paint for the appropriate primer and follow their instructions (remember to mask off where the zinc will be).
Tom
Bennett Marine
-
A little trick on installing the pump bracket. On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight. The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose. The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...
Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this... :wink:
No problems with that Bob :D As log as the pump is snug in the bracket that's fine!
Tom
Ahh, you know that little "trick"... :salut:
Yes sir! 15 years with Bennett has taught me to listen to guys like you who install them by the hundreds!
Tom
-
Yes sir! 15 years with Bennett has taught me to listen to guys like you who install them by the hundreds!
Tom
Kinda funny, wherever I went, everybody knew the same routine!
I have a Ranger 168 Phantom at the house right now with an older Power Pole, uses a Bennett HPU with dual solenoids...I mounted the pump the same way...
Sorry but it has Lencos...have a new control box on it's way, and, no, it didn't catch fire! :shock: :shock:
-
Is there a recommended vendor for the tabs?
-
great advice you guys are giving me on painting the TT's :thumleft: :thumleft:
-
Is there a recommended vendor for the tabs?
Mike, Jim at BOE Marine is unbeatable most of the time with superior customer service and lightning fast shipping.
-
BOE is definitely up there when it comes to all around service, pricing, etc. Plus Jim's a pretty cool guy... :thumright:
-
Thanks for the heads up on boe, I ended up with northern marine electronics out of nj, treated me real well, $583 for the m120's with the eic kit. Arrived at home yesterday!
-
Thanks for the heads up on boe, I ended up with northern marine electronics out of nj, treated me real well, $583 for the m120's with the eic kit. Arrived at home yesterday!
Pretty straightforward install, but a couple of tips to make it go easier...
1) Fill the pump on your bench before you install it. You'll probably leak some fluid, it's a whole lot easier to clean up with it in front of you instead of down in the bilge.
2) If you got the double-rocker switch, use a 2 1/2" hole saw, rather than the template that is supplied. Cut a hole in cardboard to test the fit if you don't believe me...
Other than that, have at it! :cheers:
-
Sea bob, thinks for the info, I ended up with the eic system with the auto retract, one less thing for me to think about.
-
Mike,
With the EIC switch, you'll only need a 1" hole for the plug to the switch to fit through. Other than that, mount the "box" close to the pump, you'll be good to go...
-
A little trick on installing the pump bracket. On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight. The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose. The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...
Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this... :wink:
Thanks for that tip Bob :salut: :salut:
-
Bob or Tabman, What size hole is needed to drill for the Bennet Auto Tab Control ?? I have it on order, should be here this friday and I want to be sure I have the correct hole saw size for the day it arrives. Thanks.
-
Seek and ye shall find.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/inst ... _final.pdf (http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/instIcon/AC3000_instructions_final.pdf)
3/4"
PS..... see pg. 15
First one's always free. :mrgreen:
-
You need a 3/4" hole saw for the cable and a 3/16" bit for the mounting studs.I installed one in my boat last year it is a nice addition to all the other toys. The install is pretty straight forward it should take a couple of hours.
-
Seek and ye shall find.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/inst ... _final.pdf (http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/pdf/instIcon/AC3000_instructions_final.pdf)
3/4"
PS..... see pg. 15
First one's always free. :mrgreen:
lol, thanks for the freebi :bball: :bball: