Spring install

[Capt. Bob]

I don't post too often to this forum but since I did some trailer work I figured what the heck.  

I installed new leaf springs on my WAC trailer. I've never done this before so it was an educational process for sure.
It's not for every DIY type but then again I completed it so it ain't that hard.

A couple of pics of the finished product.







Most of the job is straight forward. Two floor jacks on wheels would give a little better feeling than a bottle jack with a slight lean.
Drive the bolts through the shackles first rather than try and pull them through with the fiber lock nut. I used a 4 x 4 post I had with a 9/16 hole drilled through it. The section of the bolt closes to the head is knurled (?).
Don't over tighten the shackle bolts or the spring holder U bolts. If you bend the bottom plate, you're showin" off. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet though I know many like an impact wrench.
Use jack stands
Common sense stuff and of course the second side went much easier than the first.

A California Merlot works fine.


Edit:
I started thinking about the rear axle. Should it be straight up and down or does it matter? Or does it "rotate back and forth when you hit bumps/potholes?

[Circle Hooked]

Nice job Bob,having done it to many times,a month ago was the last,i know what you went thru,once you get the wheels back on and get it off the jacks everything should level out just fine.

[flounderpounder225]

That's just sick looking, and with a glass of wine sitting there   I had 10 Lbs of rust, 4 lbs of melted nuts and bolts, and some blood stains on my concrete when done...  
Marc

[RickK]

Good Job CB  
I'm no expert on this for sure - on my 230, if the load is not level the connector between the springs tries to compensate.  If I get the trailer level, the connector is level.

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks Gentlemen,

I went out last night after I posted and looked at the CCP. She sits on fairly level ground out back and the rear (both really) axle was "straight" so this morning I got up early and installed the hubs and wheels and it leveled out fairly well.

[Capt. Bob]

 I had 10 Lbs of rust, 4 lbs of melted nuts and bolts
Marc

First load


Still have a handful of bolts out back where I did the first run and I swept up a bag full of 'droppings" from the concrete. I'll fire up the blower when I get home tonight in hopes of keeping the rust stains down on the drive.

[RickK]

Those springs look like they have another year or two on them...

[icemanbryan]

Mine look like the old ones.
I am doing Disc Brakes on my Trailer this month, guess I should do the springs too

[Circle Hooked]

Good idea,they tend to snap at the worst times,been there.

[pete]

nice job CB,I see that project in my future! any ideas on whats good to coat the springs with to slow down the rust?

[GoneFission]

The wine glass is a nice touch!    

[Circle Hooked]

Pete convert to torsion axles if you can,forget the springs  

Cold galvanize is a good coating.

[c master]

I have to say, I just bought a new single axel trailer with torsion.  What a difference!

[Capt. Bob]

I sprayed mine with an undercoat type paint but it's impossible to get into the spaces between the springs unless you disassemble them. A member (or two) posted on coating with a petroleum product (I can't recall what) every so often and that probably will work better than the paint.

What works the best is fresh water launching.
I have been launching in the Wakulla River up here and so you get a reduced salt content. It also allows the engine to enjoy a decent flush on the way in from the Gulf.

[kchaudha]

Install doesn't look bad but how long does it take to remove the old rusted components?  Also curious on what methods you guys used.  Is penetrating oil and a breaker bar enough or did you have to use a torch and heat up the nuts?  Or did you even have to cut some bolts?

I just did my brakes recently and the most time consuming and annoying part was removing the old rusted components so that's why I ask!