1972 196 deck hatches and console shelf advice

[Ng03]

Hi guys,

Looking for some build advice. My 196 front hatches always end up full of water and I would like to build a new shelf in my console. The initial shelf was set by the previous owner and fell middle of last season. The wood shelf was very temporary solution to keep me going last year. I know I could fiberglass a new shelf in there but curious of any faster simpler solutions. Thanks

[Ng03]

Here are some pics of what I'm referring too...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Lv8JPx_8EpN1xa-9uB5ZbDY_q8tHUzF2?usp=share_link

Thanks guys

[McAllgeyver]

Hi. Nice 19-6 dude.
For the hatches, a few things. If the boat leans forward, any water, rain, washing it, etc.  will find its way to the front gutter and spill over the small hatch gutters easily.
Keep the bow high when it on the trailer. Can help it though when towing with truck without trailer mods and lowering/ angling bunks maybe.
If none of that works for you, I suggest letting the water drain on to the bilge via drilling hole.

The console hatch I made in my 19-6 is removable and the batteries are under it. I put a divider from between the seat storage area and directly under the console. This leaves the area under the sat complete empty for my dry goods and towels and such.

Will post pics when I find them in my gallery.

[tkcogs]

Replacing the wood core of the Fuel Coffin Deck Lid on a 1974 19-6......what thickness marine plywood should I use.  Plan on laminating it to the top and bottom fiberglass skin with polyester resin and a sheet of 1708 glass, top and bottom.   

[RickK]

1/2" plywood or 5/8 should be all you need. Make sure you figure out a way to keep the hatch lid flat before you pull the original core out of it. Then pry the coring out and grind the remnants until you get to fresh glass. 
I would then rough cut the 1708 to fit, cutting pleats to make the corners fit then cut the plywood to fit leaving 3/4" all around to make it easy to laminate cloth across the top and down onto the lid. Cut the plywood edge on a 45 degree to allow the 1708 to make the bends.
Next mix/roll resin on the hatch and lay/roll the 1708 into place adding more resin to the top. Use a resin roller to get the bubbles out and let it kick. That should stiffen up the lid. While you're waiting that out, mix resin and resin coat every inch of the plywood, especially on the edges and let that kick on a flat surface.

After it has kicked for a while, lightly scruff grind the inside of the lid and all parts of the plywood. Set the plywood in the lid, mark the access hole and cut it out. Set it back in and mark the perimeter of the plywood onto the lid. Cut/pleat the next layer of 1708 and make sure it transitions down the 45 degree wood edge and up the lid edge and then roll it up and set aside. Remove the core. Time to glue the core in place. Mix up thickened resin and trowel (1/4" notch) it onto the lid within the outline you marked, now set the core into the glue and weigh it down with cinder blocks or whatever you have to press it into the glue. Leave it until it kicks. Then blow off the lid, mix resin and roll onto the plywood and the inside of the lid up the edge. Lay the cloth, roll resin to saturate and resin roll it to remove the bubbles. Let kick and admire your work. Clean up anything that needs it.

[RickK]

Here is an example - posts 696 through 704
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10101.msg118567#msg118567

[tkcogs]

Slow start but making progress.   Coffin lid core size checkup before glassing

[RickK]

I recommend that you cut the whole edge of the wood on a 45, not just the top edge. Cloth doesn't like traversing edges so it will leave air gaps and pull away along the entire edge. Also, you might want to grind a little deeper along the edge of the lid, glass will adhere better. Are you going to lam a layer of cloth on the lid to stiffen it up?

[tkcogs]

So to clarify my understanding….the edge of the wood core should be basically rounded?  Am following your instructions above….so planned to glass re-inforce the lid….then polyester resin the wood core, then resin the core to the lid, then glass over the core and the lid….  With this plan, i don’t think Ill have a sharp corner on the core top that will be resined to the lid?

[RickK]

If you look at the attachment, bottom drawing, I drew the hatch lid and the core. The circles represent the shape that the cloth is going to try to follow as you try to bend it to conform to an edge. Looking at the bottom drawing, you lay the cloth on the top and then try to follow the sharp edge and the cloth will look like it is conforming but the back pressure from the corner at the bottom of the core, where it meets the lid, will push backwards and you'll get an air pocket at both corners as it is pressed backwards. The edge of the lid will do the same thing.

Middle drawing - You put a slight bevel on the core but as you see, the radius is still too sharp and you'll still get air pockets at the corners. Notice the bottom edge of the core is still where it was on the square edge core, so it's still strong.

Top drawing - you cut the core on a 45 on the 4 top corners and also make it a little less wide to allow for the cloth to transition the corners down to the lid. The corners are very slight now. You won't get air bubbles now and the lamination will be strong. The bottom edge of the core is still wide to keep it strong.

Anyway, something to think about. It's easier to recut the core now then regret it later.

[Ulysses485]

Checkout the thread on my '81 where i go over this starting on post 23....
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=15249.0

The closer the edge is to laying flat, the better the glass will lay down and prevent voids (BAD) and air pockets.