epoxy injection?

[Menner]

Hello all
I have read a couple of times about epoxy injection for reinforcing soft spots in floors I searched for a thread about it but could not find any info as to how to and what products you used my 19-1 has a couple of soft spots in the floor but over all it is solid and I would like to try this out on one of the spots in my floor. any info you be greatly appreciated

[pete]

here is some info I was able to google   http://www.boatingforumz.com/Resin-Inje ... 15768.html
basicly you thin some epoxy with acetone so it will wick its way in,drill some holes and inject it in.would depend on the size of the soft spot and how much of it is there,maybe you could put in a pie plate to get to it?if its the gas tank hatch,remove it and recore,good luck

[Menner]

Thanks opinions very on the effectiveness of it  think I will give it a try though may get  me a couple of seasons before the tear down rebuild if anybody has done this and has a list of the products used and any pics of the procedure it would be much appr.

[Woodinator]

I always feel like the red-headed stepchild when i talk about this subject, but I HATE tearing out original factory construction unless it's absolutely necessary, and I'm a not-so financially enabled government scientist so I have to use the most cost-effective solutions I can find for things.  I've used the epoxy injection several times and have been happy with the results each time.  It obviously doesn't solve the actual problem, and probably does break down over time, but the oldest project I've done was more than 5 years old and still holding together perfectly when I sold my last boat.  Procedure is pretty simple.  you will need to get the open ended caulking tubes from your local fiberglass shop.  I used an epoxy called Rot-Stop from Fiberglass Coatings which cures effectively even in the presence of moisture.  Just mix 50/50, fill a caulk tube, drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of your soft spot (drill thru the top layer and the core, but DO NOT drill thru the bottom layer of fiberglass), cut the tip off the caulk tube so the diameter just fits inside the quarter inch hole you drilled, press down and squeeze away. Works best when your deck or subfloor layers have separated or delaminated from the wood core so the epoxy can more easily travel throughout the soft area.  Get a small package of modeling clay to plug the hole when you're done so the epoxy doesn't squeeze back out.  If the area to be repaired is large, then start your injection at the lowest end and work up from there.  Multiple holes may be necessary depending on the size of the area.  I've never had to thin with acetone, but it probably just depends on the epoxy you use.  If the epoxy doesn't penetrate under the pressure of the tube, then the floor probably isn't delaminated or rotted enough for the technique to work...try drilling one or two other holes nearby to see if it makes a difference, but otherwise assume the floor still has too much integrity for the epoxy to do spread throughout the area and do its job.

[Menner]

Thanks that is just the info I was looking for I am storing the boat indoors this winter I was thinking ( always dangerous for me ) that I would let it set over the winter so the floor would dry really well then have a go at the epoxy injection the floor is not so bad that I am afraid to use the boat. I am self employed and still have one son left at home so I am looking for the most cost effective way to keep me fishing while I stash away some money to start the rebuild in a couple of years
Thanks again

[Woodinator]

Anytime.  Also wouldn't even bother waiting for winter.  Pretty sure any rotted wood in your floor will stay wet no matter how long you wait.  There's just not enough air flow in between the glass layers and wood core for anything to dry out significantly unless it spent 5 years in the Sahara desert baking in 120 degrees and 0% humidity.  That's why you need to make sure you use an epoxy that cures properly in the presence of moisture.  Go ahead and do the work so you can enjoy the rest of the summer.  and try to find the openings that got the floor wet in the first place.  Usually console screws or pedestal mount screws.

[kaptainkoz]

It ddnt work well for me. I used gitrot. I think my wood was too wet. Nothing beats redoing a floor i believe, I would love to be proven wrong. Here are the steps I took.... its in this post staring on page 2.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3858&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=kaptainkoz&start=15

my floor is springy-soft. I guess it may work if you have an isolated spot or two but they are soft because they are wet and most of the epoxies need the wood to be dry. If the wood is dry and the epoxy can adhere to it I think you would be okay.

I went through hell to try to avoid tearing out the floor but that seems like thats going to be the only way to go. I havent done it yet. Basically I will do it when I put my foot through the floor!

[naytep]

I used git-rot on a wellcraft 248 sportsman. Did a series of small holes 3/16 around the soft area  drilling through the skin and into the plywood but not through the back side. I also just used the container supplied with git-rot. Filled the holes with marine tec after git-rot cured. I later gel coated whole deck. Looked great and was stable. At the same time I re-cored the hatch for the fish box. It was completly delaminated and an easy enough job. I am planning on doing the git-rot job again in 1 spot on my 196 FF. As well as doing the transome. I have the comman crack across the top. So I will nject with git-rot and patch in the crack before gel coating. I will post some pics when I do the job. Just moved the rig indoors last night. Want to let it dry up a bit before attempting anything.