1986 222 CCP repairs/upgrades

[jdupree]

Thought I would start a thread for repairs and upgrades that I plan to do over time as soon as weather will permit

First order of business is the transom.  Towed it to my best friends house yesterday to see what we had going on with the transom.  Pulled the motor and the stainless steel cap off and found that the cap has seperated from the transom most of the way accross   Upon further inspection of the transom, we don't think that the transom is rotten by any means.  We probed around the engine mounting bolt holes in the transom.  A little wet but hard and no soft areas.  No doubt where the cap has seperated has caused some water intrusion.  One could only assume that the slight "bow" in the transom was caused by the cap seperation.  

My best friend Mike is having a stainless steel cap designed to go over the transom and under the motor where it won't be visible.  This should remove the "bow" and strengthen the whole area.  The cap will be 44" wide and extend down over the transom just to the stripe.

Just looking for suggestions for re-sealing the cap back to the transom.  I would assume glassing it back together would be the best option.  The cap that we are having made should provide the strength.  Sorry about the pictures, had to use the good ole blackberry.

Should be able to see the cap seperation




Here is the template Mike has designed

[GoneFission]

I would run the cap outboard as far as possible.  Spread the load over a greater area.  Put a couple layers of glass over the top to seal it and make it more structurally sound.  Should last a while, but you are eventually looking at a transom fix of some sort...

[LilRichard]

If you are suggesting that you would grind the transom, add new glass and then cap with stainless, I think it is a good idea.  

The transom caps on a lot of these older boats comes apart at the top like that.  When you reglass it, I would suggest using 45deg fabric so the strands cross over the gap to increase strength.

[gran398]

Good plan...go with the wider cap

[gran398]

John called and said the crack was on the vertical portion below the top.

We smoked it over, grinder and glass time, then the stainless. Mike, good thinking on your end.

[thennutts]

Honestly, the motor is off already, thats the hard part. I would cut that bad boy out and re-do it. Why worry about it everytime you are out on the boat? my thought is motor is already off and you already plan on grinding and glassing, just get it done right the first time!  

[gran398]

thennutts, John says its not that bad. Transom is solid and dry. Not an extensive repair. Thinking the damage was caused at the outside top by running hard aground on something solid. Been there.

They have a good fix planned. A new transom in this liner boat, the quote is $3500 to $4200 from professional re-builders. The money comes in tying the transom to the liner, getting the job right, a good job, pretty job. Labor-intensive.

Good with the planned fix, as she's solid. Grind out the long crack, glass, then cover with the stainless. Stainless cap is  free, glass work at home. No need to spend a bunch of time on glass-pretty....will be covered at completion. And with a quality repair... could be set to go for years to come.

Just my half-cent worth...

[jdupree]

thennutts, John says its not that bad. Transom is solid and dry. Not an extensive repair. Thinking the damage was caused at the outside top by running hard aground on something solid. Been there.

They have a good fix planned. A new transom in this liner boat, the quote is $3500 to $4200, from professional re-builders. The money comes in tying the transom to the liner, getting the job right, pretty job. Labor-intensive.

Am good with the planned fix, as she's solid. Grind out the long crack, glass, then cover with the stainless. Stainless cap is  free from a friend, glass work at home. No need to spend a bunch of time on glass-pretty....will be covered at completion. And with a quality repair... could be set to go for years to come.

Just my half-cent worth...

Well said Scott and thanks

[Capt. Bob]

JD,
I don't know why, Aqua went to adding the metal strip along the length of the transom/liner seam other than to lower production cost. They seem to have a high incidence of separation under those seams but I believe is mostly due to the aging of the attaching material more than mishap.

My CCP does not have this strip but my WAC does. The CCP is glassed (it appears so to me) along this connection while the WAC is "glued" then the seam covered with a formed strip of plastic/vinyl. The mating at the Hialeah plant appears much better (on your boat) than on my Bradenton built craft. There is a decent size gap where the liner meets the hull that has been filled with something that kind of looks like the material used to bond the deck to the stringers.

Since my motor is still in place, I plan to grind out the filler/glue and replace it with a resin/cabosil mix and somehow fab a temporary seam cover (how bout duct tape ). Someday, I'll pull the motor and reseal/attach the other side and then glass the two together rather than using the cover.

Not replacing the transom at this time should be based on its condition, which you seemed to have pretty much figured out. I would (as I believe you said) glass that seam after you grind it out and re-attach. I would not put the seam strip back on. As far as the structual mounting plate..... couldn't hurt.

I'm using the resin mix on mine, What do you guys think you'll use on yours to fill/re-attach?

Good luck.

[jdupree]

Thanks for the input Bob   I do know that the older Aquasports had a problem with the cap seperating from the transom.  I do know that the factory stainless steel cap is the culprit for the water intrusion.  Several screws were missing and broke off.  On my 200 CCP, you can start to see an "indention" where the cap and transom meet and I know that transom is solid.

Not quite sure how we will handle the "glass" part?  The transom does have the one place where I assume was weak from the seperation where it "bows" out slightly.  Don't get me wrong, there is some water intrusion and the transom has some wet areas.  But at this point I think our plan will work.  The problem we are going to have is to get the stainless steel cap over the "bow" to straighten it back out.  I think this is going to take some "banging"   However we glass it won't have to look pretty since the stainless cap will cover it anyway.  I am open to all suggestions but I feel like some matting and some resin would do the job but the real strength will come from the special made cap.

I could be wrong and the transom could fail tomorrow, but I feel like we have caught it just in time.  Only time will tell.  One thing is for sure, already have a good transom guy on standby and the money in a special fund

[Mcdiver]

Sorry it's taken so long to chime in.  I caught some nasty bug that is putting me out of commission.

Anyway,

We are making the brace out of 1/4" stainless, The plan is to have the upper motor mount bolts go thru the brace and transom, then thru the brace on the other side.  With the brace being 45" long, we are adding 2 bolts on either side of the motor as well to sandwich the transom and hold it together.  The lower motor mount bolts will go thru the brace, transom and then we are making a stainless plate to put inside the live well to spread the load out and sandwich the transom.  

This was one time that my engineering almost degree came into good use.  The only problem I have is that with 1/4" stainless, it takes a large break to bend it, and with that size of a break, we cannot do both bends on the same piece.  So, we will have to make the rear piece and weld it to the bracket.  I am not worried about this for strength, just looks.

pretty sure with the lack of rot in the transom that it will be extremely solid once the bracket is in place and bolted on.

we will take lots of pictures for posting!

[gran398]

[jdupree]

Sorry it's taken so long to chime in.  I caught some nasty bug that is putting me out of commission.

Anyway,

We are making the brace out of 1/4" stainless, The plan is to have the upper motor mount bolts go thru the brace and transom, then thru the brace on the other side.  With the brace being 45" long, we are adding 2 bolts on either side of the motor as well to sandwich the transom and hold it together.  The lower motor mount bolts will go thru the brace, transom and then we are making a stainless plate to put inside the live well to spread the load out and sandwich the transom.  

This was one time that my engineering almost degree came into good use.  The only problem I have is that with 1/4" stainless, it takes a large break to bend it, and with that size of a break, we cannot do both bends on the same piece.  So, we will have to make the rear piece and weld it to the bracket.  I am not worried about this for strength, just looks.

pretty sure with the lack of rot in the transom that it will be extremely solid once the bracket is in place and bolted on.

we will take lots of pictures for posting!

I guess it takes someone who knows what the plan is to explain it  

[smitty 1]

JD,
I have your older sister, she's an 85 222CCP. My Hull number is ASPA0539L385. When I looked at yours I saw my boat except my Teetop metal is painted black.

My transom seems fine and I do have that S/S top bent plate on the transom. Now I wonder if I should pull mine to check it. All my screws are intact and a good solid line of old 5200 showing from under the metal. I am very interested in your brace, please provide plenty of pictures please. Looks like you have a plan and I'm curious to see what it will look like.

best of luck on your repairs and upgrades

Smitty

[jdupree]

JD,
I have your older sister, she's an 85 222CCP. My Hull number is ASPA0539L385. When I looked at yours I saw my boat except my Teetop metal is painted black.

My transom seems fine and I do have that S/S top bent plate on the transom. Now I wonder if I should pull mine to check it. All my screws are intact and a good solid line of old 5200 showing from under the metal. I am very interested in your brace, please provide plenty of pictures please. Looks like you have a plan and I'm curious to see what it will look like.

best of luck on your repairs and upgrades

Smitty

I would just look down your transom from port to starboard and see if you have a straight line.  If you have any kind of "bow" anywhere you might want to remove the motor and check out.