1991 21 WAC

[Capt. Bob]

I'll bounce this thread back on topic with some work I've done over the last month.

First, this is the next step relating to an earlier post in this thread.
viewtopic.php?p=42564#p42564

I have filled in the gap between the cap and transom with two part epoxy resin.


Now I'm searching for some sort of material I can shape to cover the seam.
Taco makes a flexible vinyl but it isn't in the 90 degree shape I want. I'll find something.

I relocated the trim tabs from the CCP to the WAC.




I also fitted the Bimini from the CCP to the cockpit of the WAC.


Somewhat of a height difference but.....

I'm going to attempt to relocate the OEM helm Bimini forward about 6"-8" and I have room to slide the cockpit cover back about 12".  By moving the helm top forward, the height will also increase and I feel that I can get the two to line up both somewhat horizontally and vertically. Not truly custom but sorta custom.

Anyway, that's the plan followed by saving enough coin to get a new helm top in the same color and material as the cockpit.

They tell me it's good to have goals.

Three more to perpetuate the fantasy.

[Double Trouble]

I have filled in the gap between the cap and transom with two part epoxy resin.


Now I'm searching for some sort of material I can shape to cover the seam.
Taco makes a flexible vinyl but it isn't in the 90 degree shape I want. I'll find something.







Capt. I had a similar problem with the plastic trim on the cutout in the anchor pulpit.I made a template and brought it to stainless fabricator he made one from my template it fit perfectly and will outlast me.Cost was $80 buckscheck it out

[Capt. Bob]

I'm looking at the black trim above the anchor, correct?

[RickK]

Good to see you back at it CB  

[Capt. Bob]

Good to see you back at it CB  

It has been 16 months since that boat and trailer moved.

25 feet. Small steps but steps none the less.

The motor started as if it last ran the day before and so far, everything is working. Fresh gas in the new tank, helm steering component rebuilt (no leakee any more) but the rear cylinder still weeps so that's on the list.
The goal, weather permitting is to splash her mid April and shake everything down. Hopefully the new thru hull/sea cock won't leak and the trim tabs keep trimmin'.

If all goes well, then I'll do a "Lewis" on her and make her look new. He let the genie out of the bottle. Now I just have to put him to work.
Too bad the owner won't look anywhere as good as the boat.

[Double Trouble]

I'm looking at the black trim above the anchor, correct?

Yes CB it is not a good picture the black trim is actually stainless,it is bent ninty degrees up into the cutout I caulked it in and had holes drilled and countersunk for screws all around.I hope to get down to the boat this weekend if I do I will get better pictures.

[Double Trouble]

Here is a better picture excuse the crud I just took the shrink wrap off did not clean and wax the boat yet.You should be able to do a formed 90 degree angle to fit your transom.

[Capt. Bob]

OK so this is a little embarrassing   but I just flat missed it when I bought the boat.
Not the end of the world as we know it so...



What's the generic fix?

Gel coat patch/repair?
Poly/vinylester super duper two part mix?
Marine Tex? Two part epoxy?
Epoxy resin with cabosil?

I realize there are several ways to go and the area on each side is scratched also but after sitting for so long, I'd like to patch it and go.
The hull itself is fine and I'm only planning on compounding the boat. No paint in my future plus it's not in a high vis area so.....

I was kind of leaning toward the gel coat patch kits I've seen. I'm wondering if it will stay in place (not run) in that vertical position.
I've never use it before so any thoughts are appreciated.

[LilRichard]

Doesn't look like much more than cosmetic damage - so gelcoat patch should work.  Do the typical prep (sand, wipe with acetone, etc) and spray with some gelcoat.  Make sure you add wax to the gelcoat so it'll cure.

As an aside, we had a boat we used to beach all the time (lake boat, that's how you parked it) and we actually ended up using marinetex because it lasted longer.  Not as pretty, but much more durable.

[Capt. Bob]

As an aside, we had a boat we used to beach all the time (lake boat, that's how you parked it) and we actually ended up using marinetex because it lasted longer.  Not as pretty, but much more durable.

Thanks LR.

I was contemplating Marine Tex since if you held a gun to my head, I'd guess that same thing was a big cause of the damage. Gulf coast boats spend a lot of party/chill time on sand bars. Since I've never worked with gel, it might currently be my best option.

Still, a little experience in an out of the way spot, might be good for me.

EDIT:
I ordered the gel coat, hardener, wax and and off white tint from US Composites. Gentleman there stated I could add some Viagra (cabosil) to stiffen it up a bit for the vertical surface.
Like the trailer springs, this ought to be interesting.

[LilRichard]

If you plan on beaching it a lot, you'll find the gelcoat lasts about a season, then you're back to looking like that picture.  After two seasons, I stopped caring how pretty it was on the trailer and caked the marinetex on!

[Capt. Bob]

Well, after 2+ years of delay, I got around to installing the new seals in my hydraulic steering cylinder.

Model HC 5340-42 circa 1996 port side seal.


Support bracket removed, old seal on shaft


New seal (black) on left, old on right.


Alignment "tool" for positioning seal on shaft


New seal in place, support bracket shaft cleaned/greased


Support bracket in place


Final tightening/torqued


This wasn't a real difficult  undertaking. The seal kit came with the spanner/pin wrench and various o rings for the hose fittings. Starboard side is just a repeat of the procedure. Actual instructions can be found on the Teleflex/Seastar site.
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/wp-conten ... 20720F.pdf

 Just need to bleed and I should be good to go for another 15 years.

[RickK]

Nice job CB  
Momma ain't gonna be happy when she looks for that roast pan though  

[Capt. Bob]

Since I first purchase this hull, I always considered re-powering. Nine years later, I pulled the trigger and purchased a 150 in-line 4 Four stroker.A lot of research and soul searching went into my choice and hopefully it was a good decision. Time will tell.



My goals were a cruising speed of 27-28 mph and a fuel burn rate under 10.5 gals/hr.



I'm thinking my normal cruising rpm will be closer to 4300-4500 so that falls within my anticipated range. WOT rpm is 6000 at 39.3 mph. Again, all within my goals. The motor weights in at 500lbs making my testing weight 3680 lbs. It will be interesting to see if I have a noticeable reduction with my normal loads.



With the old Yamaha on back, the hull had a port list that required trim tab correction. Maybe it's the additional weight but whatever, the list is reduced to a degree that only a minimum use of the tab is necessary. Strange. I always felt the list was caused by a hook in the hull but only difference is the motor weight. Interesting.

I tried several prop combinations and received the above results using a Prop Tech 14.25 x 15 3 blade. This prop is basically a Yamaha Reliance clone.

[RickK]

Looking good CB. New gauges and all - no more sunburned displays.    Did you get fly-by-wire?