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Author Topic: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish  (Read 2315 times)

January 13, 2020, 05:36:42 PM
Reply #60

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #60 on: January 13, 2020, 05:36:42 PM »
Love the flowchart LOL
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 13, 2020, 07:04:16 PM
Reply #61

Tampa Bay Mike

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #61 on: January 13, 2020, 07:04:16 PM »
Nice to see you back at it

January 19, 2020, 04:05:29 PM
Reply #62

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #62 on: January 19, 2020, 04:05:29 PM »
18 degrees out, so why not start pulling the old plywood out of the transom.





Thinking about doing bench seats instead of a casting deck up front.  Anybody else done this?  Thinking some hinged tops on the benches with storage underneath.  I can't see a whole lot of benefit to having a fishbox, but see plenty for having extra deckroom to walk around.  I have lots of coolers, not sure I need one built in.

January 19, 2020, 05:07:24 PM
Reply #63

mshugg

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #63 on: January 19, 2020, 05:07:24 PM »
Eighteen degrees? That’s crazy.  Split bench would be very doable.  Keep going, soon you’ll be moving in a + direction.

January 19, 2020, 05:49:53 PM
Reply #64

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #64 on: January 19, 2020, 05:49:53 PM »
Super progress  :thumleft:  - looks like a new hammer too, nice!! I have so many new tools from my rebuild I really don't have room for them - maybe a yard sale is in the future.
As for the bench seats - you can easily mod the casting deck to meet your needs. Fiberglass work is really very easy if you have imagination and some basic woodworking skills. The lamination process we can teach you.

If you lay a straight 2x4 across the aft side of the transom is the transom skin flat or bowed?  Mine was bowed toward the inside of the boat 3/8" in the center. IIRC the bottom of the transom skin was flat. I needed to pull the skin aft while I layed up the first 3 lams of 1708.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 20, 2020, 08:56:24 PM
Reply #65

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #65 on: January 20, 2020, 08:56:24 PM »
West system advice... buy the 4.35 gallon jug or use the 1 gallon cans?  I have a couple sets of pumps for the cans, but do I need to be that accurate in measuring where i cant just do it in small paint buckets?

January 21, 2020, 06:18:32 AM
Reply #66

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #66 on: January 21, 2020, 06:18:32 AM »
I assume you've made your decision to go the epoxy route.  I started with the pumps but tossed them and went back to mixing cups  You do want to be accurate with the mix but it is too slow with the pumps when you're mixing good size batches.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 21, 2020, 07:28:05 AM
Reply #67

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #67 on: January 21, 2020, 07:28:05 AM »
My thought is to use West System on any place Im trying to bond to the original glass.  I will probably use polyester on the deck to save a little $.  Unless there is an overwhelming response on here that i shouldnt do that...

January 21, 2020, 07:35:12 AM
Reply #68

mshugg

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #68 on: January 21, 2020, 07:35:12 AM »
My thought is to use West System on any place Im trying to bond to the original glass.  I will probably use polyester on the deck to save a little $.  Unless there is an overwhelming response on here that i shouldnt do that...
Yes, this works really well.  You can use poly for anywhere that you’re making a part, and then use epoxy to tab the part in.  For example use poly to laminate your deck, and then tab it in with epoxy.  That way you’re using each resin to it’s best advantage, plus saving a bit of money.

I used both mixing cups and pumps for measuring.  I actually came to like the pumps.   The key for me was forget the small pumps.  Just use two full size pumps.  With my 2-1 resin it was2 pumps resin and 1 pump harder.  You may want to look into Raka epoxy.  It’s cheaper than West, a bit thinner and 0 blush.

January 21, 2020, 02:10:13 PM
Reply #69

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #69 on: January 21, 2020, 02:10:13 PM »
What I decided on in my rebuild was everything below the sole was epoxy, everything above to include the sole itself was done in poly, that way I could gelcoat it.  All the structural stuff was done in epoxy and like what Michael mentioned, I tabbed in the sole to the hull sides with epoxy (and then hid it behind liners).
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 21, 2020, 04:05:02 PM
Reply #70

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #70 on: January 21, 2020, 04:05:02 PM »
Hmm... I hadn't thought about tabbing the deck to the hull yet... am i going to have to cut the rest of liner out?  Whats the best way to do that and salvage it so I can reinstall?  Cut behind the gunwale support so its easier to hide if i F*$ck it up? :)

January 21, 2020, 04:33:55 PM
Reply #71

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #71 on: January 21, 2020, 04:33:55 PM »
You're going to be a good chess player by the time you're done with this ;-)

We need a pic of the inside of the boat from the aft now so we can see how to attach the sole to the hulsides.  I'm guessing that the easiest way is to pop the cap and liner loose, prop it up like you did at the aft and set/glue the sole in and then tab it in. You'll end up cutting about 3" from the bottom of the side liners since you're raising the floor 3". That's when you'll be happy that you took the time to draw the boat out and get a bunch of measurements. You'll be scribing the bottom to the sole, not an easy thing but having all those measurements will get you close for the rough-in.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 22, 2020, 07:18:01 AM
Reply #72

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #72 on: January 22, 2020, 07:18:01 AM »
I'm assuming you're fairly confident that the right thing I need to do is raise the deck 3" based on your response.  I've read on here that boats can be wet.  . What will need to be done to the stringers for that? I'll have to measure to see if this will allow me to put a larger fuel tank in.  My original thought was a below deck 28 gallon to replace the 28 gallon under the console with a small reserve tank under the console.  If i can put a larger tank below that might leave the under console area open.  Any benefit in building a small splash well around the OB.  I have a 20" shaft Evinrude I plan on installing. No plan to raise the transom at this point.


January 22, 2020, 02:19:24 PM
Reply #73

RickK

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #73 on: January 22, 2020, 02:19:24 PM »
I may be confusing your rebuild with another going on at the same time and that member was going to raise his deck 3" with sealed plywood.  That being said, usually everyone raises the deck a little - an inch or 2 anyway to keep the scuppers above the waterline due to heavier motors (and humans).
What was your plan?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (Rebuilding it now)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 22, 2020, 03:21:35 PM
Reply #74

umecheme

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Re: Mike B's 19-1 Refinish
« Reply #74 on: January 22, 2020, 03:21:35 PM »
At this point I'm open to suggestions. Haven't had the boat off the trailer so far and everyone has told me to expect wet feet.  I have a 91 Evinrude 120 looper off a lake boat in great shape that I'm planning on installing.  Weight on that is 365.  I'm ballparking that being 100lbs heavier than the 115's were back in 1971.  In my head i was contemplating raising the deck, but leaving a 1"deep channel around the outside, so I could Bond the new deck to the 3" lip of original deck without having to cut the liner, but still raise up the majority of the deck about an inch, maybe put a little crown in the deck so that water would channel to the outside and back, then out the scuppers.... but theres no need to be a trailbreaker if there is an easier route.