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Author Topic: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)  (Read 781 times)

December 09, 2018, 06:14:20 PM
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smccall

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Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« on: December 09, 2018, 06:14:20 PM »
Got a 20 Ft proline CC / T-Top with a 1.6 sea drive .Late 80s model I believe. Hasn’t ben wet for over 10 years. Ran good when it was put up. Serviced the aluminum I beam fast load trailer. Figured I start from the ground up. New hubs and bearings . New led lighting. Upgraded to aluminum cross braces. Aluminum bunk brackets and new 15 inch lift Fulton jack. Now need a plan for the sea drive. New water pump before I crank it? Could the old vanes break and get in the water passages? Clean the carbs. Have 2 carb kits on hand in case? Or just blow some gas out the carb drains and hook up a remote tank and hot battery and see what’s up? I think it’ll be a good runner but just seeing if this is the start to a decent plan. Thanks in advance.

December 09, 2018, 09:16:38 PM
Reply #1

theFunsmith

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2018, 09:16:38 PM »
In my experience, water pumps are cheap insurance. Even if you don't break a vein off, you will want good water flow. After sitting that long, its just a good idea. It sounds like you are on the right track.

December 10, 2018, 12:40:41 PM
Reply #2

wingtime

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2018, 12:40:41 PM »
I would absolutely service that entire engine before firing it up. I doubt a vane will break off but I'm sure they are hard as a rock and will do little if any pumping.  Also I'd get into the carbs and clean them.  Who knows what could be in there.  Trust me I have seen critters and bugs inside things that have sat for that long.  I'd pull the plugs and inspect the cylinder bores with an inspection camera or bore scope.  Does the motor spin over freely?  I'd squirt some two stroke oil into the cylinders and each section of the crank case.  I'm sure the bearings etc are dry or close to it after that long of a slumber.  Of course new spark plugs and a T-stats too. At the very least check the lower unit oil.. better yet change it. This way your up and running with a clean service sheet.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

December 10, 2018, 05:50:26 PM
Reply #3

fitz73222

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2018, 05:50:26 PM »
Everything Bruce said is exactly what I would do. It's 50/50 whether the powerhead is undamged from corrosion on bearing surfaces unless it was fogged which is something we don't do here in Florida. My additional advice would be run the engine on a remote tank with a 24-1 gas oil premix. Fire it up and DON'T rev it up. Just little sit there and idle for an hour and let it smoke and run and flood it full of oil. Because the SeaDrive is pretty much obsolete I would consider the long plan to convert to newer propulsion.
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

December 19, 2018, 08:25:50 PM
Reply #4

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #4 on: December 19, 2018, 08:25:50 PM »
Thanks Gentleman!  Can I assume two stroke oil in each cylinder will get oil in to each section of the crank case. That’s an easy one. So are spark plugs. I’ve done a water pump on a 90 hp evenrude  spl crossflow a couple of times with success. Pretty much same motor, longer drive shaft. T stats? Tried and failed on my 90 spl. Seems the choice is either pull the Power head or cut access hatches. I’ll clean the carbs prior to start up and use 25/1 mix on a remote tank. And I’ll get an impact screw driver for the lower unit just in case . Been meaning to buy one anyway.  Lastly, I’ll check to see if the l/u is holding a couple of pounds of pressure prior to start up. Thanks for helping me deliver a plan.

December 20, 2018, 11:35:24 AM
Reply #5

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #5 on: December 20, 2018, 11:35:24 AM »
16amrdgh
Just a follow up on this omc sea drive. The above is the model #. Trying to order parts.How ever, right across the model # is a “ void”. Don’t know what that means. Thanks in advance for your help. :acclaim01:

January 10, 2019, 02:25:46 PM
Reply #6

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2019, 02:25:46 PM »
After a long slumber, the sea drive opened one of her eyes. Went in to the starboard hatch and pulled the old battery out to install a new one. At first look at the old battery, I thought someone took a grinder to both top posts as they were gone. After further inspection, determined damage done by squirrels or rats. Unbelievable. Installed new battery and trimmed her up to remove l/u for water pump installation. I got a pump kit from Master Tech out of N. Florida housing not included. Here’s my question. Omc manual calls for four drops of sealant on the four ribs. What’s a good substitute I can get and from where? Thanks in advance fellows.

January 10, 2019, 02:51:08 PM
Reply #7

fitz73222

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2019, 02:51:08 PM »
What four ribs?
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

January 10, 2019, 11:49:51 PM
Reply #8

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2019, 11:49:51 PM »
Thanks for looking Fitz. It calls for omc adhesive M in the seal ring grove at each of the “four ribs” in the top of the water pump housing. Is that just sticky insurance so a little rubber  “o” ring doesn’t become distorted or dislodged?

January 11, 2019, 08:02:15 AM
Reply #9

fitz73222

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #9 on: January 11, 2019, 08:02:15 AM »
Type M is the sealant used to secure O rings in place prior to assembly. You can use any type for what you need. A dab of silicone RTV will work fine. It's just there to hold the O ring in place while you are assembling the housing to the plate.
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

January 11, 2019, 10:13:47 AM
Reply #10

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2019, 10:13:47 AM »
Thank you Sir. You smart guys do more than you ever know. Your knowledge allows skippers such as my self to afford to have a safe boat that allows their Family and Friends safe passage whether it out on the Gulf or small Lake and back to the boat ramp, safe and sound. Thanks for all you do.

January 13, 2019, 01:28:02 AM
Reply #11

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2019, 01:28:02 AM »
Had success on water pump replacement on the 1990 Seadrive. With difficulty but got through it. First was the shift shaft bolt. Had to get 1/4 drive ratchets, extensions, and swivel prior to the baby socket. Plus, I put a magnetic button inside said socket to keep bolt from dropping during extraction. All this was was done on starboard side of motor. I still haven’t connected the shift rod back. Since I still have to clean the carbs figured that might i might have better access when I take them off to clean. My question is will I have better access? Also since there’s just a common linkage arm between carbs will I have to do a carb synchronization? Thanks in advance good people. Hope you have good sounding motors, tight lines and following seas.

February 27, 2019, 12:52:26 AM
Reply #12

smccall

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Re: Getting it back in service ( or what would Farley do?)
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2019, 12:52:26 AM »
Got the carbs cleaned up and metering passages clear plus all new gaskets and hinge pins for the floats. But here’s my thoughts before I try to crank this sea drive. She’s been converted to a mix the oil with gas. That being said, the gas  fuel pump is part of the vro system that will be pulling pre-mixed gas. Should I be concerned that the fuel pump had residual gas in it that’s probably evaporated leaving some old two stoke oil behind. Should this be cleaned prior to startup? Also, the starter gear is engaged on the flywheel. Will this go back down after the motor fires? Or should I take it off and see what’s up and see if it’ll go down ? I guess during this time I could clean up the cable posts and nuts on the wire wheel and is it ok to grease that starter shaft before it’s remounted ? Just don’t want to mess anything up before it’s in service. Thanks for your help.

 

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