This spring started out late because life got in the way and the weather was really uncooperative.. When I finally went to uncover the Osprey the last weekend in June, I found that the plastic drain tube inserts that I had installed 2 seasons ago had been started out. I can only guess that water from tarp leaks or condensation collected and froze had worked its way under the inboard lip and worked the tube out of the transom about 1/8 of an inch.
So, enough was enough, this time brass was going in. It worked well for 23+ years, no reason for it not to work well again. I went on ebay and ponied up the $30 for the flaring tool, $13 for the tubes and we were off to the races.
The old plastic insert came out in pieces. I am no longer confident in them and if any of the Brethren are on the fence about using them, my vote is (and I know I don’t have one) is no.
I used 3M 4200 when I put them in knowing there was a strong chance that I would have to take them out. Hind sight bein g what it is, that was a wise choice. If you look closely in the picture you can see the 4200 skin is still intact and the wood core is still dry (enough).
The new tube (ordered a 3 ½”) slid in, and I used Bob’s buddies’ pencil trick to mark it, (see Bob, your fault again). I held the pencil in one spot and spun the tube to get a line.
The hardest part was cutting it to length. The tubing cutter wanted to crush the tube no matter how careful I was. Lesson learned on the first tube. The cutter crushed the tube to the point that I had to put a piece of 1” black iron pipe in and roll it on the steel top of the table saw to get it to the point where I could get the die in it. That is why you see the second one with a dowel and a piece of tin flashing in it. Before flaring I dressed the inside edge with a chainsaw file to get it de burred.
A note on the flaring tool.. The dies came really nicely machined and they both had square cut shoulders that go into the tube in a really nice tight fit. You booger the tube and you are SOL the fit is that good... The problem was easily solved by putting a spare bolt through one of the dies and putting the rig in a drill press and hitting it with a file for a 1/8” 45 degree chamfer.
So, the transom glass around the hole was chamfered a bit, my thinking was that would allow for more 4200 to act as a seal then the hole is slathered with enough 4200 to get EVERYWHERE and in goes the tube and flaring tool. I chose 4200 because if the transom needs to be done, that in itself will be enough of a chore, the last thing I want is to fight a tube out bedded in 5200..
The flare itself could not have been easier. I covered the flaring tool lightly with oil to ease the flare and with the hope that I would not glue the @#$! thing to the boat. So in the transom the whole works goes and I commenced to swinging on the wrench. The bolt in the tool has a fine thread and it all goes relatively easily for what you are doing. When the flare is done, you know it. The torque on the wrench changes noticeably and you are not going to turn it anymore unless you really grunt.
Then it is all done but for the cleanup. I put the original flappers back on, they do not stop water from coming in but then again, I don’t care about that.
As for having a tool laying around that I might not need again? Well, my buddies up here know I have it, if I didn’t have it, the yard bill would have been $300 to replace the tubes and the evil spirits would somehow make it necessary for the tubes to be changed again..
