Fuel Delivery Issues

[RickK]

I'll try one more photo sizing to show my pick-up....

Nope, still didn't work. The smallest I can make my photos are 640 pix wide by 480 huigh, and whenever I try to upload them here I get the above warning in red that reads "the image must be at least 0 pix wide, 0 pix high and at most 1100 pix wide and 100 pixels high." The smallest of my resize options when I email my photos to myself to be able to resize still has it at 480 high. Damn.

Dan, just upload the pix here to our gallery into your member gallery and the system will size them to 1024x768 max and you'll be fine to post then.  Don't attach file.

[kaptainkoz]

Hmmm, tough to see. Small picture. The anti syphon is sneaky small and looks like a standard barbed fitting. You would never know there is something inside of it from the outside. I would think that if you have a screwed in barbed fitting into that shut off that it may be the anti syphon. If it is you do not need to buy a new one. As I found out stuck an hour from the dock, the whole assembly is held together by a press fitted ring. All you have to do is use a punch ( a nail? an old phillips screwdriver? an allen key?) and insert it into the barbed end against the ball and hit the threaded end (gently with a piece of wood maybe to not disturb the threads) and the ball, spring and assembly ring will pop out, leaving you with a standard, screw in barb. I may have even held it in my hand and smashed the whole assembly on something to get the punch to pop it apart. It took me no time and we got up and running fast. It was clogged with what looked like wooden slivers which no one could understand. Not my boat so I didnt lose much sleep over it.

[daniel123]

Images of fuel tank pickup and sender and boat posted in my Daniel123 gallery, per Rick's advice.

[daniel123]

If anyone thinks they can help, please check out the photo on my gallery page I took of the two barbs I bought at WM this week to consider using to replace my OEM barb. One is a Racor with a square head that looks just like the one on the tank now, which we think might have a faulty AS valve and causing my fuel delivery problems. It's a complex fitting that may or may not have an AS feature or be right for my app. The other is a simple elbow fitting of brass, that I worry may not even be right for this application, but certainly doesn't have any AS valve inside.

I assume the fuel pickup line/hose attaches to the inside end of this fitting; would/should that need to be replaced too?

Dan

[TheKid]

Instead of copying from the gallery main page, go to the actual image and copy the URL.

[TheKid]

By the way, looks like a ball valve attached to the pickup, then a barb to your hose.

The next image could work to eliminate the ball valve, but would put the hose 90deg to actual position.

[TheKid]

Hard to tell, but that fuel looks weird or your filter is dirty.


I would replace all fuel lines and filters. They look old and don't like ethanol at all. If it doesn't solve this problem it certainly will solve future problems.

[daniel123]

Thanks for the looks and comments. I am planning to replace the fuel lines and primer ball and install a Sierra or Moeller canister filter/separator. I'm just not sure about pulling that tank fitting until I know it's what's causing the fuel problem, I have the right replacement, and what to expect and look for when I do, such as whether I need to get a new in-tank pick-up and filter, etc.

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks for the looks and comments. I am planning to replace the fuel lines and primer ball and install a Sierra or Moeller canister filter/separator. I'm just not sure about pulling that tank fitting until I know it's what's causing the fuel problem, I have the right replacement, and what to expect and look for when I do, such as whether I need to get a new in-tank pick-up and filter, etc.

OK Dan, a couple three things.

You're heading in the right direction. While it may be a PITA to complete, changing out the fuel lines for 'ethanol friendly" is needed. You also want to add the water separator type inline filter to help keep the fuel clean. Racor does make a good unit also. The fitting you purchased appears (with the additional elbow) to be OK but I'm not sure that's the route to take. As was stated earlier, it appears that you have a shut off valve coming off the pick up. I would want my fuel hose barb to attach at that point (remove shut off / add barb) eliminating additional 90 degree bends. There may be a restriction (crap trapped in the valve assembly) at that point also.
Looking at the existing filter, that kinda has all the makings of poor fuel flow.

Now, can the shut off be removed from the pick up or is it integrated into it?
Does the rear (in your pic) pick up have a "plug" that I can't see or is it a solid piece?
I would guess, that if you can't remove the shut off, you would need to remove the upper one first to allow clearance to remove the other.
Is this tank poly?

Lastly, you can see chafing on the existing fuel hose at those "pick up" fittings. When you do replace the hose, try to avoid that as much as possible.

Good luck.

[daniel123]

Bob,

Tx for the help. The fuel line replacement job doesn't look all that PITA in my instance. And it is a poly tank and that other fitting appears to have a plug. I assume it is to allow a fuel line for another/dual outboards?

I'm not sure how using the new fitting I bought and photo'd adds another 90 degree turn. Don't they all turn 90 degrees out of the top of the tank to lead to the fuel line to keep it straight? And a barb screwed direct there would still go in/off the same way at the shutoff fitting does.

What tank fitting do you recommend? What's the downside of having a shut-off there? As long as I am in there replacing the fitting, do I need to buy a new pick-up hose and filter for the inside of the tank too?

Thanks again for all....

Dan

[Capt. Bob]

Dan,
Yes, all pick up connections coming out of the tank have a 90 degree bend.
Well at least the one I saw did.  

I might be confused as to what you plan to do with the two fittings.
None the less, here's a link with something like what you may encounter.
Read the whole thread and notice about post #10 for removal instructions and the last couple of posts on replacement parts.

The crap in the middle about blowing ones self up is decent advice but the usual THT chatter, not unlike our Forum, so I been told.

This should help more than my humor.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... ickup.html

[daniel123]

Bob,

I bought the two fittings with the intent to choose just one, hopefully the right one, and not use them both. I have since gone ahead and ordered a new pick-up, fuel line with primer ball and canister filter from Moeller to replace the entire system. I think that is the best move on my part at this point!

That said: thank you (all) once again for all the assistance.

Dan

[Capt. Bob]

I have since gone ahead and ordered a new pick-up, fuel line with primer ball and canister filter from Moeller to replace the entire system. I think that is the best move on my part at this point! Dan

I concur.
With the fuel system under attack by the ravages of the evil ethanol and time itself, you're making all the right choices. Plus you'll know just what you're working with on the supply side.

Good luck.

[daniel123]

Guys,

I ran the boat yesterday to see if my blowing out the fuel fill vent did the trick. It did not. The 115 Johnson-powered boat ran for about a half mile at WOT before bogging down. Then I tested for venting by removing the fuel cap. Still bogged down at WOT. Next, between the primer ball and the outboard, I spliced in a new fuel line and primer bulb hooked to a portable tank with fresh fuel. Engine ran great; no bogging. So, it's a fuel delivery, and not an engine, issue, right?

I now have 12 feet of 3/8 line with primer bulb, fuel tank fitting with 24 inch long plastic pick-up tube, and water separator/filter from Moeller, which I plan to install soon. Question: can I bend the plastic pick-up tube to allow it to rest along the bottom of my 8-inch-deep tank or should I run it straight down and try to cut it at an angle at a length where the 'sharp' end of the angled cut is as close to the tank bottom as possible? Do I want a filter on that end or just count on the in-line canister filter to catch bad stuff, which I can clean without having to take the intake fitting/tube out of the tank to clean a filter there?

I need to look at the tank uptake fitting they sent with the tube attached to see if there is a ball in there that is the AS valve, right? If there is, should I remove it now or, because it's new, count on it not failing for a long while?

I welcome and value your input!

Dan

[Blue Agave]

I'm not clear if you already replaced the 90 degree fitting?  Could be the fuel tank