RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

Thanks Lars 
I fear my mind is going though - I fitted and drilled for my fire extinguisher not long ago and now that it is time to mount it, I'll be darned if I can't find it

[larsli68]

I hate when that happens...
One good way to find it, is to go buy a new one... Usually the first one appears out of nowhere...

Great work!

 

  //Lars

[RickK]

      You are so right!!

I found it - I need to find a label that says "Fire Extinguisher" inside.


Sanded, painted and mounted the helm station


Started running battery cables - ran wire hangers of different sizes around the top of the toe kick - perfect spot for it -  man that 2/0 is tough stuff to pull. I laid the portions that are going to the batteries loose on the toekick for the time being.


Rebuilt the powerpole pump


2awg to the trolling battery switch and a 60A CB on the way to the front of the boat.  I will connect the forward going cables later.


2/0 to the main battery switch - the portion going to the aft of the boat will be put in later and will lay across the top of the storage cabinet to the left - hanger already in place for it.  I can tell I have bent in too many unaccustomed ways today 


Another look at the PP pump area.  The wire hangers seem large but will quickly fill when I add 2/0 in them.  Right to the front of the PP pump is where everything goes under the sole on that side so there will be cables coming from the front and back of the console to that area.


Hope everyone had a nice Christmas - I know I did with my daughters and grand kids around.

[HawgLeg]

Great work Rick! I just got caught up on your thread. Looking good!

[CLM65]

Great progress Rick!

[RickK]

Thanks Craig!!
I took a break from the console while I wait for some more wire although I did get the stereo to amp wires done.  I also ordered some loom.

I worked on the hatches and got the edges ready for spray and then masked them off.  Then I will re-mask and get them ready for gelcoat non-skid - I will take a bunch of pics of that process so I can add it to the original non-skid topic in the resources forum.
New bilge hatch:


New front hatch:


Second from front hatch (the original):


The new hatch over the fuel tank


I took them all to the spray booth and just as the sun was starting to set (and the temp in the booth went down) I sprayed them and other parts and will leave them in there all night.  I peeked in there and they looked good.  Hopefully tomorrow I will get a few of them non-skid'd unless there is no wind and I'll be spraying the boat cap and liner.

[CLM65]

Looking forward to seeing the progress on the non skid.  Eventually I will get to that point.

[fitz73222]

Hey Rick,
Looking fantastic! One thing you may want to reconsider is putting the fire extinguisher mounted vertically. One good hit on a wake or steady pound and she is coming out of there. Those plastic latches are designed to hold it in place with the collar supported.

[RickK]

Thanks Farley,
I agree, I wish I could find a metal clasp type hanger. At least it'll be behind a door.
Getting closer....

[Levi]

Can't believe I read the whole thing ! Looks awesome Rick you've done some pretty neat stuff I hadn't thought of!

[RickK]

Thanks Levi!! I have done so many things on this rebuild, all for the first time, that I can't remember a lot of them - that's what the documentation is for - to help me remember and hopefully someone can learn from it.

Anyway, I sprayed the edges enough to build up some gelcoat and then I took the tape/paper off and sanded the lip down that was created by the gelcoat on the top and scruffed the edges one last time.  Then I shot a light coat of gelcoat on the edges without any masking.


The edges are looking good.  You can see some pinholes in the field of the hatch - that will be covered by the non-skid


I tried to fit the latches into the bilge holes and the gelcoat had made them too tight so I spent some time carefully grinding with a dremel until they fit again.  A little caulking and it'll be right.


I masked off the edges with one layer of tape and then set whatever hardware was to be installed in place to give me an idea of where I needed to tape and what edge I wanted on them


And then masked, marked and trimmed




And then you repeat with a second layer - a different color if you can. I'll explain the process later






I mixed and colored up some waxed gelcoat today and will use that as the second coat after the non-skid is applied. I'll waste a couple roller sleeves and pan liners to do the process on just the bilge hatch to make sure I like the color I mixed up.

Love bugs are definitely here now    Not sure if I stirred them up with my spraying or what.

Hope everyone has a safe and GREAT New Year celebration tonight.

[larsli68]

Happy New Year from Sweden!

Great work Rick!

Looks awesome!

 

//Lars

[RickK]

Thanks Lars!! Happy New Year to you too. Is the weather back to normal there yet? I heard the UK is getting buried in rain.

So this morning I started applying non-skid and the items you need after everything is taped off is some glass bead (not bubbles), a small mixing cup, some household screen and a strong rubber band.


You make the small cup into a bead shaker of sorts


You need a 1/4" nap roller sleeve to roll the base coat and the top coat of gelcoat.  You don't want to lay too thick of a base coat otherwise the bead will sink into it and disappear and you don't want too heavy a top coat or it'll smooth out the bead and you'll end up without non-skid.  Don't ask how I know that 
Roll out the areas evenly, making sure to coat part of the tape so you know you got to the edge


Then grab the shaker and start shaking even coats of bead on the areas, it doesn't hurt to overcoat it because you'll sweep that off later




Let the gelcoat kick - since I used non-waxed for the base coat I put plastic over everything to seal off the air so it could kick - and then take a soft hand brush and dustpan and sweep off the excess bead into the dustpan and then pour back into the shaker.  I used two 10 oz shakers and then swept back up 12 ounces, so you use just a little bead.  You can also lightly coat the areas with bead for a lighter non-skid.


Sweep off the excess bead and peel one layer of tape off


Now, using a 1/4" nap roller, lightly cover the areas - I mixed 6oz of gelcoat and it was barely enough to cover everything - nice light coat






Let the top coat start to kick and then peel off the last layer of tape.  I make sure that I pull it off so the tape is pulling away from the bead edge - take your time.








Not too shabby and the gray color I mixed up matches well IMO.

[CLM65]

Dang, Rick, that looks awesome!  One question for you...why do you cover the base coat with plastic?  Don't you want it to be tacky for the next coat?

[Levi]

Rick I LOVE the twin layers of tape trick! I did this same process on my Mako's nonskid but I only used the one layer of tape which  meant I had to re-tape and that's a TOTAL PITA.
I used this nonskid additive that soaked up the paint after you apply it so that as it wears it doesn't discolor like using the grit, sand or other additives came out pretty sweet. same process though roll a layer of paint, sprinkle with additive then recoat once it set.
Where'd you get the glass bead and what was the cost?