Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: perchman97 on October 06, 2018, 09:07:50 PM
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Finally bit the bullet and started my first rebuild this week. Boat has been rebuilt prior to me purchasing it but the quality was far from acceptable. After the tower pulled out of the deck and the continual headaches it was just a matter of time before it needed to be done. So far I’ve removed about 3/4 of the hardware/accessories, tower, some wiring etc. I’m hoping to get the console out this week and start to remove the deck. Planning to go composite on the floor/stringers. I’ll do my best to keep this updated with progress pics & questions. Any input is very helpful, as I said I’ve never done a rebuild before so it’ll be a long road till the end. FYI pics are what I started with, I’ll get some better ones of the work I’ve done to it soon.
Also wanting to extend the front deck and remove the first two hatches which will gain me 1.5-2 ft of lower deck space. I’ve seen one boat with the entire high deck removed but not sure I want to give up the large front fish box. Anyone have suggestions on this?
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Well, the pics won’t upload off my phone, the file size is too big.. I’ll upload them off the computer tomorrow.
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From your PC "upload" the pics into your free photo gallery here and the gallery will size them correctly - "attaching" pics is limited by file size.
Read through this topic on how to use your gallery. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/image191.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17808&title=tear-out-process&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/image211.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17809&title=tear-out-process&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/image311.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17810&title=tear-out-process&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/image410.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17811&title=tear-out-process&cat=2)
Heres the progress as of today, still needing to get the gas tank removed. Stringers have all been cut and im working on removing all of the foam.. not a fun process.
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Picture tip: When you take pics with your phone, hold it like a camera, with the lens to the left. Then they'll be oriented correctly when you upload them.
Yup that foam sure looks a little soggy.
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Wow thats some wet foam there. With the wet foam and all that weight on the stern the scuppers must have been WAY under water.! good luck with the build. You going to raise the floor height a bit?
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Floor was raised originally a few inches since this is now going to be the 3rd deck in the boat. Thinking to keep it at the 2” raised height and removing the front deck / hatches then installing in just one large hatch upfront. Guess I’ll cross that road once I get there, for now I’m on foam removal duty :shrug:
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Not sure what method youre using to get that foam out, but I used a "Drain Spade", basically a long thin shovel. I even sharpened the end with a grinder and it got the foam out easy. Good luck!
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I noticed in one of your pics you had a couple speakers mounted on the vertical wall that supports the casting deck and are facing rearward. Was that a good position for them? Seems like a great place as far as projecting sound across most of the whole boat? I am considering mounting a pair there. Interested in your opinion.
I used a small hand saw for wood to remove foam,worked well also.
Cheers T
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I noticed in one of your pics you had a couple speakers mounted on the vertical wall that supports the casting deck and are facing rearward. Was that a good position for them? Seems like a great place as far as projecting sound across most of the whole boat? I am considering mounting a pair there. Interested in your opinion.
I used a small hand saw for wood to remove foam,worked well also.
Cheers T
Yes those speakers there were nice & sounded great there. The only issue I had was items in the hatches bouncing around and pulling out the wires. If I do it again I’ll make some sort of barrier to prevent it.. the foam is 95% our so far, shovel did the trick.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/aaaa.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17820&title=aaaa&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/bb.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17822&title=bb&cat=2)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/b.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17821&title=b&cat=2)
Just some progress from yesterday, removed the majority of the foam from the stringers. Found some rotten wood on the little stringer that runs up the center of the boat.. Once I can get this gas tank removed I'll start on re-glassing the stringers and pouring foam. Nothing has been too bad so far during the tear out just time consuming. I'll also start taking horizontal photos so you everyone's not tilting their head sideways to see the boat. Still holding off on the front deck removal until I make up my mind if I want to fully eliminate it or not.
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Thanks for speaker recommendations. For me who uses my 19’6 mostly for fishing the casting deck was one of the main features why I bought the boat. I actually cast from the casting deck a lot...for small mouth and muskie! Great platform. Also works great jig fishing for walleye on the Detroit River with a bow mount motor. Seems like most of the new bay boat designs the bow is a after thought for fishing IMHO. Nobody really wants to sit in bow unless your slow cruising anyways. Maybe that’s what customers are asking for?? Good Luck
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Made some good progress this weekend on the boat, tear out is near completion as you can see in the pictures. The gas tank should be out today too then I can really get moving on it. I have finally decided to eliminate the front raised deck and go back with one level deck. Not too sure how I'll lower the liner sides to make it look normal but we'll cross that bridge when I get there. Any input is appreciated!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/312.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17834&title=312&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/117.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17832&title=117&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/216.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17833&title=216&cat=500)
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Good progress Perch.
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:great02:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/a.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17928&title=a&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/b.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17929&title=b&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/c.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17930&title=c&cat=500)
Haven't made too much progress these past weeks but with the cooler weather rolling in it will be a different story. Will hopefully get to the transom within the next week then start on the cap, stringers and bulkheads. Happy to be done sanding, that's for sure!
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Got her nice and clean! One thought would be to put small fiberglass straps across the stringers to keep the shape, every foot or so, so they don't distort when you pour in the foam.
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Getting it all sanded down is progress enough! I did most of that in August and it was brutal.
And X2 on what Rick said about the stringers. I clamped a 2x4 along the side of mine and it still managed to bulge it out a little. You would think the expanding foam would just go out the top but it tries to go everywhere.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/118.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17937&title=118&cat=500)
Started on the transom last night, getting the 4" existing floor ledge I left on is difficult since I'm dealing with 2 floors and a lot of fastened shims from the first dingus who rebuilt this boat. Thanks for the input on pouring the foam in the stringers, never really though about it moving them around.. Figured any excess would expand vertically.
Anyone think I should core and glass over those 4" sections that run down the center of the boat on both sides like there was originally? Or should I just roll with what I have and set a few layers of glass over it?
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What is your plan on the transom? Are you removing the core and replacing? You can use a sawzall on the ledge - you can lay the blade so it is flush with the transom and cut along the transom. Which 4" sections are you referring to? The ones left and right of the drains and thru-hulls?
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What is your plan on the transom? Are you removing the core and replacing? You can use a sawzall on the ledge - you can lay the blade so it is flush with the transom and cut along the transom. Which 4" sections are you referring to? The ones left and right of the drains and thru-hulls?
Yes, planning to remove the wood and replacing with coosa. The wood transom right now is pretty solid but I can’t see why I would rebuild a boat with all composite and leave a wood transom. The 4” sections are shown in prior pics, looks like a wood strip on each side running down the center from stern to bow. When I removed it, the wood was turned into dirt from rot and water intrusion. Looks like some boats have it and some don’t.
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ok, I agree - if you're this much into it, I'd replace the transom too. Easiest way to remove the core is to take a skill saw and make vertical cuts almost to the outer skin and then use an air chisel to peel back the material between cuts.
Ok, you're talking about the piece that is right down the middle. I see in one pic where you have pulled it out. Some people put scraps of composite material back in after they remove that piece and some even fill with resin and chopped glass strands. My 170 didn't have this piece.
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Well here is the progress from the transom today. Unfortunately I punched a good size hole though the top in one spot, the glass is unbelievably brittle. Looks like the one who build this previously enclosed it the easy way and left the exiting transom, then built it up. I'm happy I decided to do the transom since the wood on the top section was in rough shape and the wood in the lower section appears to be to soupy. Planning to do the stringers and transom once I get this tear out done & my fuel tank should be built within the next few weeks.
Any recommendations on tank size? I'm pulling the trigger Monday and don't want to make a costly mistake. My plan is to go with a 60 gallon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_21.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17972&title=transom-21&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_21.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17972&title=transom-21&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/transom32.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17973&title=transom32&cat=500)
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So what was the Honda sitting on? I saw the big piece of aluminum and assume that was holding the upper and lower portions together. Amazing that it lasted as long as it did.
Frankly, at this point, I think I would lay a 2x4 (or 1x4) across the cap about 2ft forward of the transom and secure it to the cap to hold the shape of the hull. Then I would take a saw (of your choice) and cut the transom totally out, leaving a 2" lip around the outer edge (and we have some rebuilds that don't leave anything). You have no idea how well any of the outer glass is attached based on what you mentioned. You'll save so much time doing it this way. You lay a sheet of melamine or formica covered wood against the open transom, secure it - you can screw from the inside out or glue blocks of wood along the outside of the hull and screw the wood into the blocks from the outside. Many ways to do this.
Make sure the sheet of wood you use is taller than the finished transom by at least a 3-4 inches so you can use the added height to clamp the layers of cloth and you can flip the layers out of the boat until you've trimmed them in and are ready to add the resin to them. Make sure you do a 4", 8" and 12" lamination overlap on the hull sides and hull bottom - that will make a nice outer glass thickness - around 3/16". After you add the core you will then repeat the lamination schedule and your transom will be part of the hull at that point. Don't forget to add a piece of PVC pipe at the beginning of the process so you can control the low point in the hull.I can give you a link that explains this.
You'll end up with a perfectly flat and solid transom this way.
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:iagree: I'm with Rick on this one. I left the outer piece of glass and added on to the inside but in hindsight it may have been easier to just cut it off and start fresh.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/G2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18001&title=g2&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/G1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18000&title=g1&cat=500)
Just got my gas tank in a few days ago, it's 59.5 gal. I ended up subbing my transom/stringers to someone locally and traded out the work. Getting those two things knocked off the list puts me a lot further ahead than originally anticipated. I will be going with a Coosa transom and a divinycell deck/cap.. Finally had to bite the bullet and order the materials.
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Welp so much for the original guy doing the transom & stringers but thankfully I've found someone else locally who can help me out. Since I have materials sitting in the garage and there's a console with 1,000 holes (looks like swiss cheese) I've been knocking a little out each night this week. Its slowly coming together but a learning process for sure. Getting a new console would make my life a little easier but I've fallen in love with the one I have and don't think I can due with something else.
Anyone have some suggestions on how to do to attach mounting surfaces to the inside of the console? I think it would stiffen it up which would be nice & give me a good place to mount some heavy electronics like amps, smart charger, etc.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_11.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18066&title=console-11&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Console_21.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18067&title=console-21&cat=500)
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I used 3/4" resin coated plywood.
I would lay some 1.5oz CSM all over the inside and after it hardens, scruff up where you want to mount the plywood. Mix up some thickened resin and trowel it onto the back of the plywood, press the plywood onto the spot and put a couple cinder blocks on top to weigh it down.
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Got the old transom out this weekend and started to get the stringers ready for foam. Before I took Rick's suggestion on removing the entire transom, I cut it completely out and checked the condition of the original transom glass. It surprisingly turned out to be in pretty good shape minus the few holes put in it during the removal stage, think I'm going to roll with it for now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Before_Stringers_getting_glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18076&title=before-stringers-getting-glassed&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Stringers_glassed.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18077&title=stringers-glassed&cat=500)
Threw a bulk head in at the back and put some extra 1.5" Coosa to use as my center stringer (which will also serve for a great for resting point on the fuel tank). The boat got real weak after the transom came out and I was getting a little worried. The glass over the stringers will be "sacrificial" in a sense. I figured the foam will have no room to expand vertically except for the holes I use to fill them with so there will be no voids. Once they're filled I"ll add foam to the tops where they sag slightly or just cut it out, top the foam off, cut it level with existing height, then re-glass the tops. This resin is kicking off pretty quick now with the higher temps!!
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom111.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18090&title=transom111&cat=500)
Got the two 3/4" sheets of Coosa cut out this weekend and bonded together, now I just need to glass them in. Since the existing transom isn't 100% straight and there's a little gap between it & the Coosa looking from the top down, whats the best method of making sure this gap gets closed? Also, do I need to run the glass up the back first then set the transom? Or can the transom glassed in from the front then I can glass in the back piece?
I have 6 10" pieces of all thread with lock nuts and washers I was planning to use on 2x8's & a ton of clamps but still think there will be little voids that are not visible. Any help is appreciated! :sign0104:
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Did you get a sheet of melamine to clamp across the back of the boat? If you want to build up a notched transom to a full transom it is better to build up the skin not only on the notch but also the inside of the transom. It is easier to build against a flat piece of melamine to build it up and tie it into the inside instead of building up the outside after the fact. Looking at the transom skin I think it's toast and should be cut out. The easiest is to leave a 2" lip around where you cut out and then you attach the melamine to the 2" lip and get it flat to the back of the hull. You'll be happier with the outcome.
After you get 3 layers of staggered cloth on the inside of the transom and a pipe in the bottom at the drain hole, you'll have a good foundation to glue the transom material in.
There are several rebuilds going on that did the exact thing you need to do. Hopefully they'll jump in and show you what they did - check Merkin's rebuild (https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13280.msg135457#msg135457) and Marcel's rebuild did exactly what I described (https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=14704.msg144541#msg144541)
You can also search for dirtwheelsFL and see how he does it.
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:iagree:
I'm with Rick. Get some melamine and it will give you something on the outside to work against and will make a nice flat surface when you're done. Check out pages 4 and 5 of my build, I just did this a few months ago. Also, not sure what size bolts you plan on using. I went with a bunch of 1/4" ones and some of them twisted off when I tried to remove them. I used epoxy and it didn't want to let go!
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Thanks for the input on this guys, coincidentally I just stumbled across a YouTube video from Marcel on how he did it too. Now I have a real good idea on the process. Need to swing by Home Depot to get a sheet of melamine & I have 1/2” bolts so I should be good. Going to spend all week thinking about ricks suggestion now. Arrrg.. decisions decisions...
If anyone’s reading this thread now or 10 years from now here’s the link to the video on glassing up the outer skin and fastening the melamine sheet.
https://youtu.be/rtbqUFsE4XY
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Got the outer skin on the transom laid up this weekend. Took Marcel's tip from his video and used deck screws then ground them off from the inside once the melamine was fastened. There's 1 layer of 1708 and 3 layers of mat for the outer skin and I plan to do the same lamination on the front side once the Coosa gets set in. What I did forget to do was install the PVC drain to the bottom, just thought about it when I got on the computer. Also added 2 layers of mat in the front between the stringers and 3 layers in front of the transom, this really beefed the hull up especially with the center stringer!!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/Outer_skin_glassed_4.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18136&title=outer-skin-glassed-4&cat=2)
Big thanks to Rick & Mike for the suggestions on ditching the old transom and starting fresh.. Boy what a hassle that would have been to reuse the old one.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/2/Glass_ready_on_transom_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18134&title=glass-ready-on-transom-2&cat=2)
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Looks good! Don't delay any longer to get that pipe in there, you're already moving the low point in the boat forward with each layer of glass.
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Looking nice. I'm not a fiberglass expert but I know a lot of people go with more 1708 and less mat. I don't know the strength difference but it may be something to double check before you get too much further.
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Anyone want to give some input on this? Guess I can add some more glass if need be.. don’t want to drop the Coosa in if it’s risky business :acclaim01:
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I just checked your lam schedule, and definitely think you need to add more structural glass, minimum of 3 layers 1708 inside and out.
Mat builds up thickness weight and bulk but offers little in the way of strength. You can test this by laminating up 3 or 4 layers of mat. Hit it with a hammer, and the hammer just punches through. In other words it is doing nothing to spread a load. The transom main job is to spread the load of the motor and transmit it to the hull. It’s best to think of mat as either a cosmetic (sacrificial for fairing) or as a way to increase bond between materials (that’s why 1708 incorporates a layer of mat.
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x2 on Michael's recommendation. I also think you're going to have to cut your cap back so that you have at least 18" of working room (stringers too). Use 5 minute epoxy to secure the pipe in now too (12" long, 1" pipe is enough).
To dry fit your cloth, lay a 1x2 across the hull sides a few inches above the transom and clamp it in place. Cut enough cloth so it hangs over the 1x2 and down into the hull extending out onto the hull side and bottom by 4" - secure this first layer to the 1x2 with a few spring clamps. Dry fit this first layer of 1708, cutting the cloth so the first layer extends past the corners onto the hull side and bottom by 4". Cut "darts" out of the cloth so the cloth lays flat in the corners where the transom, hull side and hull bottom meet. Measure, cut and hang the next layer of cloth so the 2nd layer extends past the corner onto the hull side and bottom by 8". Clamp this layer to the 1x2 using the spring clamps. Measure, cut and hang the 3rd layer so it extends past the corner onto the hull side and bottom by 12". Clamp this layer to the 1x2 using the spring clamp. So at this point you have 3 layers all trimmed in with the necessary darts. I use a sharpie and mark where each layer ends, so I know how far to roll the resin out. Now grab the ends of the cloth and flip them over the 1x2 and out of the boat.
BEFORE you start the laminating process you need to round out all the corners that the 1708 will traverse (or try to). You do that by mixing up some thickened resin (mix with chopped glass and cabosil) and when mixed, then add the hardener and use a wooden spoon or something rounded that you make (a good radius is that of a shot glass rim), and spread the thickened resin into the corners at hull side and hull bottom and drag the rounded object down the corner removing any excess so it becomes a rounded corner. You do this on the hull side and bottom. Let it start to harden - this helps the 1708 make the transition of the corner easier - 1708 doesn't like corners. These are called "fillets".
While the fillets are starting to harden, mix up your resin, remember, enough to do all 3 layers of cloth (you can try using the 2oz of resin per sqft of cloth approach - your cloth is 6 ft wide by 3 ft high, that 18sf x 2 oz = 36 oz of resin x 3 layers = 108 oz of resin). After the fillets are almost hard pour the resin into a pan and start rolling the resin out where the first layer of cloth fits. Now flip the first layer of cloth into the boat and roll that into the resin with the soft roller and a hard roller. Don't put too much pressure on the fillets so you don't squeeze them out. Roll more resin onto the first layer and flip the 2nd layer into the boat. Work that in and flip the 3rd layer into the boat working that into the resin and top coat it with resin until its sufficiently wetted out. You don't want to use too much resin or it will pool at the bottom of the transom in the hull. You also don't want to have a dry lamination either.
After the 3 lams harden, use a grinder with 80 grit pad and lightly scruff up the lamination and make sure it is all pretty smooth. Dry fit the core. When you're ready to set the core, mix up some more filleting material and do the corners again and then mix some thickened resin - enough to trowel onto the flat side of the transom and the side of the core that will lay against it. Then set and clamp the core in.
When the core has set and it's time to laminate 3 more layers of cloth onto the inside, start with the dry fitting of the cloth (use the 4,8,12" overlap), flip it out of the boat and over the 1x2. Depending on how you clamped the core in you may have holes to fill with thickened resin. You will also need to fill the gaps around the edges of the core where it meets the hull sides and hull bottom and also need a new fillet around those new corners before you start laminating in the cloth. Laminate the 3 layers of cloth like you did before. Now you have a very stout transom that is a part of the hull because you tied it into the hull sides and bottom.
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Long time no post, turkey seasons wrapped up and it's boat time again. Took everyone's input and now have a total of 7 layers of 1708 with a few sheets of 1.5 oz mat mixed in for the outer skin of the transom. Figured going a little overboard can't hurt. It's all set in place with vinylester putty and is rock hard, I'll be tackling the inner skin this weekend. I set my dimensions for the bulkheads and have them temp'd on with the putty as well, may add a few more to the outer stringer area if theres left over coosa. Yes, I was moving quick and didn't set the PVC in the transom again, I plan to take a barrel sander to the area and get it back to existing height.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkheads_in_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18279&title=bulkheads-in-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Clamped_in_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18280&title=transom-clamped-in-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Set_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18281&title=transom-set-1&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Bulkhead_in_1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18278&title=bulkhead-in-1&cat=500)
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Nice, I think you'll be glad you used the 1708.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Transom_Inner_skin1.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18326&title=transom-inner-skin1&cat=500)
Inner skins laid up, now its time for the foam, bulkheads, and floor!! Put 3 layers of 1708 and 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat.
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:thumleft:
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/bp.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20228&title=bp&cat=500)
Been some time but it's finally coming along. Just finishing up the electronics and wiring then hanging the motor this weekend.
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Coming along nicely!! But come on, MORE PHOTOS.. hehe..
What are you hanging on the back?
thanks for sharing.
Ulysses
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Nice, though maybe you gave up on it. What did you do for the floor?
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Wow, what a change - looks great.
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Thanks everyone, thought I gave up on it a few times myself too lol. Ended up using divinycell for the floor with a coosa sheet centered below the console in the event I put a tower back on it. Going to hang the old Honda till I find a good deal on a Suzuki later on down the road. I’ll get some more pics up this week on the interior. Deleted the front step up deck and ran the new one level across the board.