2005 ETEC 250 DPXSOC cooling updates/mods

[DanB]

Hello all,

I recently repowered to a 250 ETEC DPXSOC (2005). It runs great at idling but I had some overheating when under load on the water. New water pump, themostats, and checked the PRV. Removed the thermostats and put them in some boiling water to make sure they were working ok. Checked the EMM cavity and tubes for blockage. Checked the Vapor Separator and have to replace it because of a fuel leak at the top of the fuel pump. Tell tale does not work while flushing or with muffs but on the water was ok. After I get the updates done I will continue to trouble shoot with a pressure test and temperature check. I am tracking the temperature should be around 135 degrees at idle and no more then 160 at WOT. Anyone here with the same motor have picks of the recommended updates or info on the service bulletins? I have already looked on Enation and Etecownersgroup but pics of the updates would be great if anyone has done them. I don't believe I have any of the following recommended updates. Wingtime need your help if your around.

1. Recommended hole drilled near the top thermostat housing. (Bruce mentioned a 3/32 hole I believe on the ownersgroup). Any pics of where it should be drilled.

2. Updated Pressure Release Valve. Is it just because of the housing or the inner components as well? When I pulled it to inspect it look fine but I wondering if the spring was the culprit. I read a few places that the original spring was a number 10 spring but they were replaced number 7 springs so the valve would activate sooner.

3. I read something about upgrading to larger cooling tubes or ordering the adapter plate kit which is around $500.00 if there is existing damage to the plate. Have any advice on where I should be inspecting on the current plate to see if there is any damage/ cracks? Anyone have the part number for just the tube kit. I have the PN for the entire plate adapter kit.

4. There was mention of an additional cooling exhaust hose upgrade kit. Is this the same thing as above? Anyone have the part number. Any pics of  the additional hose and where it is plugged in to?

4. Any recommendations for thermostats? The service manual mentions thermostat should activate around 135 degrees. I generally order the direct part number replacement but wasn't sure if there is anything better within reason.

5. Lastly anyone have the PNs for the upgraded deflector pins and am I missing anything I should be paying attention to or looking for.

Thanks
Dan

[wingtime]

Hey Dan,

(1) If the mod has been done the the thermostat there should be a dot of white paint on the thermostat cap.  I know there is a relief hole that is drilled in there and 3/32 seems about right.  Mine were done so I don't know exactly.  Some online searching may turn up a copy of the SB.

(2) there are some updates to the PRV assembly.  Part of that has to do with the screw not being stainless. (they rust and allow the housing to leak and spray water on the stator/flywheel) I just switched out my bolts and nuts.  I know there is a slightly different shape to the plastic housing.  I believe I'm still running the original housing with no problems.

(3) There is an updated exhaust adapter plate. The main difference is it is thicker where the two exhaust bypass tubes come out.  Etec have VERY hot exhaust since they run so much leaner than other two strokes.  They tend to get a crack in this area.  The exhaust cooling hose upgrade kit helps by putting more water in the exhaust to cool it.  As you said it is about $500 plus you have to pull the power head to replace it.  I didn't bother with it.


(4) The exhaust cooling mod is easy.  There is a kit available that has all the necessary hardware.  If you are not running a N2K water pressure (or pressure gauge) sender then you just thread in a nipple into that hole on the back of the block.  Remove a pipe plug on the port side of the adapter plate and install a nipple there and connect the two with the included hose. If you have the N2K pressure sender and/or pressure gauge then you have to drill and tap an additional hole in the back of the block.  The hardest part is getting that pipe plug out.  You need to use a MAP torch to heat it up good and hot.

(5) I'd stick with what BRP suggest for thermostats.  Go on the BRP website and look up the current part number.  Then go to Dusky Online and order the parts from them.  Should save you $$$$ over dealer and direct BRP prices.

(6) The upgraded deflector pins are a tad longer to help keep soot and carbon build up off the spark plugs.  Also allows you to run the upgraded iridium spark plugs.

I have the part numbers for the exhaust hose kit and deflector pin kits.  I bought all of mine as NOS on Ebay.  I'll try to find them.

Your overheating alarm can be either engine temp OR EMM overheat.  What do you have for gauges?  Do you have the Diagnostics software?  If not Ebay again..  I bought mine with the cable from a guy in Croatia or something like that for $80.


The motor should absolutely pee on the muffs.  I would get a EMM overheat on a single sided round muffs.  I switched over to the muffs with a splitter that feeds water to both intake ports.

Also there are three or four different intake grills for the lower unit.  You want the upgraded ones that stick out more allowing them to scoop up more water.

[wingtime]

The deflector pin kit is part# 5007142
http://www.duskyonline.com/5007142.html


The exhaust/hub cooling kits is part #5007020

http://www.duskyonline.com/5007020-p-evinrude-johnson-parts.html

I also saw them listed on Ebay.

[DanB]

Thanks for the help Bruce! Thanks to the information you sent me I was able to verify I do have the thermostat housing modification and the the additional cooling hose modification. I guess I was just worried because I was not sure what to be looking for as far the mods. I have the service manual but it refers to original PNs only. Probably should order OEM thermostats and the deflector pin kit as well as the diagnostic software. The thermostats I put in there were part replacements but not OEM. Later have a shop run any software updates needed.


 

Dan

[wingtime]

With the proper copy of the diagnostics software, date cable and "bootstrap" you can do any of the EMM software updates yourself.

If the longer deflector pins were installed there should be a punch mark on the head on a flat boss area near each spark plug.

[DanB]

I ordered the software and bootstrap. Should be here next week some time. I did not see any punch marks but there is a yellow dot right next to the white dot on the thermostat housing. I can pull one of the deflector pins and measure it. The newer pins are supposed to be .861 inches according to SB 2006-02s.  When I first got the motor it did pee through the tell tale (pee hole) on one sided muffs, so I am thinking it may be clogged somewhere. I am going to pull the lower and make sure the water pump is good and check the water tube in the midsection for any kind of damage or blockage. I did get the Vapor Separator replaced and put in. The motor starts right up, just bad circulation. I do have dual muffs for it now as you recommended.

I ordered another set of back up thermostats just to be sure as well as the high flow intake screens. My trim tabs and transducer are over 18 inches from the bilge drain so I don't believe they are causing problems for the intake.  I honestly don't think it will be anything major. If i have to replace the midsection water tube it is only around $25 but I am wondering if somehow I did not fully seat the water pump out let back in the tube . I will find out soon. Bruce I really appreciate you taking the time to answer the questions. I  have done quite a bit of reading on both the ETEC owners group and Enation but most of the solutions they offer are bring it to a mechanic and your motor is old. I am not cheap but I am not rich either. I saw where you posted they wanted to charge almost 5k for repairs. The main thing for me is the more I put my hands on the motor and learn the better off I will be when on the water and something pops up. I will let you know what I find.

Thanks
Dan

[DanB]

Well Bruce I got the tell tale working again. Problem was with water pump liner. Somehow the liner cup shifted inside of the housing and was restricting the water flow as you can see in the pic. Not sure how it happened but know to make sure I pay closer attention in the future.  Glad I kept a spare housing from a previous water pump kit. Still plan on putting on the upgrade intakes and just going to keep an eye on it. I also blew out all of the hoses to make sure. 

Dan

[RickK]

I can't think how that could happen - the drive shaft goes through it and the cap is bolted down, so it is stable.  Maybe the cap was bad from the beginning? Maybe got hot and that allowed the cup to turn?

[DanB]

Rick,

 I think that is what probably happened as well. You can tell liner shifted by the way the plastic housing has a slight lip over the liner outlet. Seems to be running ok now. I have a pressure gauge but I am thinking about running a temp gauge as well so i can track the temp. Would make me feel better at least.

Dan

[wingtime]

Glad you found the problem. There is a tiny tab that keeps the cup from turning.

Not sure if you know but there is an amendmend procedure for installing the water pump impellor. Basically once you have the pump together you turn the drive shaft backwards just enough to unlock the impeller key then you pull up on the shaft and turn it forwards to relock the impeller key. This puts a preload on the impeller. Not sure if makes a differance or not.

Yeah the guys on the Etec forums can be a tad snobby and touchy.

Do you know what oil setting your motor is programmed for? If it is set for XD 100 you have to run that oil. Nice thing is with the software is you can set it yourself.

[DanB]

Bruce,

 Tracking on the little tab that holds liner in place. I used the same procedure for engaging the drive cam in place as well. For all I know the liner tab could have come out of place while tightening the bolts although it seemed to be seated. Either way glad is seems good now. I am running XD100 in the oil tank. I will check the setting when the software gets here but was originally told it was set for XD100. Should have the software this week. I noticed with both Evinrude and some of the other forums I found there are very few follow ups with what the problem/ fix was. The good thing is it all led to me learning about the previous cooling problems and ETEC SBs. With a lot your help of course. 
 
I want to use the NMEA connector from engine to a screen up front but realized my Raymarine Dragonfly 7 pro is a stand alone system. I did not know anything about NMEA when I purchased it. I read you can run tablets/PCs as well on the network but I still need to dome some more reading on the NMEA website.  Definitely going to add a temp gauge just for piece of mind. I am running the Faria Euro gauges right now. I bought them shortly after getting the boat. 


Thanks
Dan