1987 222 rebuild

[Ulysses485]

Brad, great progress! I am looking to start a project in a few years and looking forward to seeing this project.

[brad329]

ulysses awesome glad to have you following the build

[Ulysses485]

Any updates on progress? I know the weather has been all over the place. Not sure what your storage is like.

Looking forward to it.

Ulysses

[brad329]

Ok guys I know I know i got sidetracked and was working on my race car a lot so the boat took the side burner i also got engaged and she is planning the wedding you know what that means $$$$$$ my dad also passed in November But I am back On the boat now. I had to do a little  Work on the canopy it’s under today because of it had sinking in the ground. So I have my transom core cut out I plan on doing some final shaping this week and get it glassed in this weekend I’m hoping to get that done. I took a side job to do a ls swap on a Range Rover so that will take up my free time when I start that for a few weeks. After the transom I plan my on rebuilding my stringers I’m not going to remove my casting deck it’s solid and I want to save me some work.

My question is am I making a mistake by doing the work with the boat on the trailer if so I what’s the best way to go about it 

[mshugg]

My question is am I making a mistake by doing the work with the boat on the trailer if so I what’s the best way to go about it

On a properly adjusted bunk trailer with the bunks extending to, or a little past the transom, your boat is better supported than it would be on stands.  The only thing that could be more supportive would be custom stands.  Before you finish the transom, it would be a good idea to double check that your transom is square.  Measure corner to corner (outside chine diagonal to top corner).  I’d be inclined to snap lines from chine to chine, top corner to corner and center line too.  Before you finish the stringers use a strait edge to check for excessive hook or rocker in the aft hull bottom too.

[brad329]

OK I got my core material all shaped up and all my glass cut What is the best way to clamp the core material to the outer skin of the boat I was really trying not to drill holes but if that’s the only way without buying some extravagant clamp of some kind I guess that’s what I’ll do

[RickK]

You can buy landscape timber, all-thread and some washers and nuts and make your own clamps.

[mshugg]

Lots of ways to clampthe transom core in.  Some builders make omg clamps using 2x4s or even 4x4s and threaded rods for clamping mechanism(as above).  Some jam 2x4s against the stringers to create clamping pressure at the bottom.  Of course regular clamps work for the top   

I didn’t hesitate to use bolts, with backing blocks.  I wanted the peace of mind of knowing my core was in with no voids.  The holes fill easily enough.

[Capt.Joe]

Lots of ways to clampthe transom core in.  Some builders make omg clamps using 2x4s or even 4x4s and threaded rods for clamping mechanism(as above).  Some jam 2x4s against the stringers to create clamping pressure at the bottom.  Of course regular clamps work for the top   

I didn’t hesitate to use bolts, with backing blocks.  I wanted the peace of mind of knowing my core was in with no voids.  The holes fill easily enough.

I agree with mshugg. When I did mine I wanted to clamp it in. But having that piece of mind that my transom is COMPLETELY void of any weak spots outweighs the issue of filling in a few holes. The only thing I wish I did was wax my bolts so they were easier to get out.

Watching the air bubbles pop out of the sides until a nice thick bead of resin ensured a solid bond.

[Joe65x]

Hi guys just thought I’d update the thread. So I bought this boat from brad329 and plan to finish It lol. Brad and I work together and he bought a Hanson so I took this project over. Since you guys have seen it last we installed the transom and glassed it in. Then I brought it home and started on stringers and everything else it needs. I’m a auto tech and not the most experienced when it comes to boats lol so I’m sure I’ll have some questions for you all. I plan to upload some pictures tonight.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Cool, glad to see it being continued. Fire away with the questions!

[Joe65x]

So my first question, I see some people put the drain tubes for the stringers at an angle and then some are straight. I’m wondering what’s the difference and how would I go about figuring out where to put mine? I see most of them are about 6-10 inches off the transom. I’m not sure if I’m calling them by the correct name or not. Once I get home I’ll be able to post a picture.

[RickK]

I think you're talking about the pieces of PVC that allows any water that happens to get into the space on the outboard side of the stringer (usually filled with flotation foam) to drain into the bilge? They could be called limber pipes. Limber holes are drilled into bulkheads to allow water to get from one compartment to another. I drilled mine at an angle to follow the deadrise of the hull. Doesn't make sense to have them horizontal.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Are you talking about these guys in the bottom of the stringers at the back?

[Capt.Joe]

The first set of draining tubes I did were too far forward. I ended up going straight through and placing the pvc at the hulls lowest point so all of the water drains out. So mine are right near the transom.



They drain perfectly every time leaving the hull sides dry. Obviously they were cut flush and epoxied in.