Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Generic Aquasport Rebuilding Topics => Topic started by: CTsalt12 on December 24, 2019, 09:35:03 AM
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Hi All,
I am replacing the standard cooler seat on my 175 with a leaning post. Reason being, higher place to sit and lean on (can barely see above console while sitting on cooler seat), and the cooler seat / livewell kind of takes up a lot of space, I'd like to hear your opinions on the best way to fasten this to the deck.
Leaning post I've got eyes on: https://strykerttops.com/catalog/product/accessories/swing-back-leaning-post/
As far as I know there's a few methods.
1. Thru bolt. Which requires drilling new access plates (assuming the frame of leaning post is outside fuel coffin width.
2. 4200/5200 the screw holes and call it a day.
3. Epoxy method. Overdrill screw hole. Fill with epoxy. Drill screw hole within epoxy 'plug.' This is how I re-installed my cooler seat as the PO had a real shoddy installation with water getting into deck core.
Thoughts? This leaning post will be subject to a good amount of stress as it's one of the few things (along with console) to hold onto in rough seas.
Merry Xmas fellow AS owners!
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#3 has method has been rock solid for me. Best practice to put micro fibres in the epoxy and glass back over. I tapped threads for the bolts and sealed with 5200.
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Woodeneye is right about number three. However if the deck your installing it on is cored with wood and it’s in good shape(not wet or soft), option #2 will be fine, as there are 12 screws and 5200 holding it down! Call it a day and keep going. Nice leaning post btw
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When I installed my seat I over drilled and filled with thickened resin and then drilled and inserted these
https://www.zoro.com/e-z-lok-thread-insert-ss-10-24x1332-l-pk5-303-3/i/G1292785/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwtbEo7Tb5gIVc4NaBR26cgnqEAQYAiABEgL22vD_BwE
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Interesting idea Rick.
Is the insert so you can take the seat off and on without damaging the threads in the hardened epoxy? Or do you find it has a better grip than the screw threads?
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Gives you a better attachment point.
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if you go the glue and screw route - be sure the screws are not too long! I saw a guy put screws into his gas tank putting a leaning post in... :16:
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Also - will a typical cooler fit between the tubes on that leaning post? I think you would want that... :scratch:
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When I installed my seat I over drilled and filled with thickened resin and then drilled and inserted these
https://www.zoro.com/e-z-lok-thread-insert-ss-10-24x1332-l-pk5-303-3/i/G1292785/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwtbEo7Tb5gIVc4NaBR26cgnqEAQYAiABEgL22vD_BwE
Damn fine idea^
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Highly unlikely the leaning post flanges will be inside the width of the 2 stringers, which means you won’t have access to use thru bolts. Though thru bolts is always choice for permanence, it’s not a necessity here...like the need to secure a tower, for example.
Get an accurate measurement of the deck depth and subtract 1/4”. That’s your screw length. Get the widest screws the flanges will allow for the greatest screw/wood purchase (aka grip). Under drill deck holes. Dip screw threads in 5200. Drill gun halfway at most. Screw in by hand to finish. Don’t fill the pre drilled holes w/5200...screw will push out excess which will cause the underside of flange to bond w/deck.
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Also - will a typical cooler fit between the tubes on that leaning post? I think you would want that... :scratch:
It's not clear in the picture but the tubes are removable, so I'd remove one and add a strap, stick an igloo cooler in there.
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Highly unlikely the leaning post flanges will be inside the width of the 2 stringers, which means you won’t have access to use thru bolts. Though thru bolts is always choice for permanence, it’s not a necessity here...like the need to secure a tower, for example.
Get an accurate measurement of the deck depth and subtract 1/4”. That’s your screw length. Get the widest screws the flanges will allow for the greatest screw/wood purchase (aka grip). Under drill deck holes. Dip screw threads in 5200. Drill gun halfway at most. Screw in by hand to finish. Don’t fill the pre drilled holes w/5200...screw will push out excess which will cause the underside of flange to bond w/deck.
Good point re: stringers and space for thru bolting. Should I go screw and glue route, I will use this method. Right now I'm in a tricky spot with a lot of my boat work relying on temperatures above 50 degrees. Heat lamp helps though. I'll post pictures of the finished product which likely won't be for awhile.
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Argh. Leaning post mount are going to be very very close to the fuel tank coffin to deck seam. Makes it tricky. May not be able to mount dead center. Landed on a Dolphin brand leaning post with backrest and rod holders
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Argh. Leaning post mount are going to be very very close to the fuel tank coffin to deck seam. Makes it tricky. DMay not be able to mount dead center. Landed on a Dolphin brand leaning post with backrest and rod holders
Got the same one by the sounds of it ($499 ?) ... I'm planning to cut 6-8" out of the middle of it and the console to make it easier to move around the deck ... looking for a local Motorbike customizing place to to do the Alu welding but this Corona thing is complicating things :38:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image235.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19928&title=image235&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/image236.jpeg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19929&title=image236&cat=500)
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Brad that is the same one indeed. How does the quality feel in person?
Also, Could you do me a HUGE favor and send me somewhat precise measurements of the hole mounts for the leaning post? Like distance from the hole at the top of the triangular shaped mount, to the one on the opposite side? And possible the width of the holes on the 'legs' of the triangular shaped mount if possible?
I'd advise against cutting leaning post and console. That leaning post is on the more narrow side of ones I've found (28.5 I think?) If you need to go smaller, they're out there on the market.
re: console, I'm trying to find ways to make mine easier to walk around too. I figured out the grab rails add a lot of width. They protrude far outside of the console footprint. I'm going to have some welding buddies change the angle to be closer to the console, if that makes any sense at all.
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Brad that is the same one indeed. How does the quality feel in person?
Also, Could you do me a HUGE favor and send me somewhat precise measurements of the hole mounts for the leaning post? Like distance from the hole at the top of the triangular shaped mount, to the one on the opposite side? And possible the width of the holes on the 'legs' of the triangular shaped mount if possible?
I'd advise against cutting leaning post and console. That leaning post is on the more narrow side of ones I've found (28.5 I think?) If you need to go smaller, they're out there on the market.
re: console, I'm trying to find ways to make mine easier to walk around too. I figured out the grab rails add a lot of width. They protrude far outside of the console footprint. I'm going to have some welding buddies change the angle to be closer to the console, if that makes any sense at all.
Sent you a PM, let me know if you don't get it
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Leaning post has arrived and it's time to mount. I am conflicted on the 5200 method vs overdrilling with epoxy. Obviously one is way easier than the other. I need to check the wood quality with some pilot holes. Had to do a lot of deck injections in the general area from the previous owner using really poorly sealed deck holes. This leaning post will be mounted partially on the tank coffin top, and partially on the deck as you will see in a picture.
I measured 3/4 inch deck on my boat. That sound about right?
Should the west systems thickened epoxy do the trick if I go epoxy route? https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system--six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive--10287571?mrkgadid=3333352594&mrkgcl=481&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=pla&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-10287571&product_id=10287571&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&acctid=21700000001687315&dskeywordid=92700049312761900&dsproductgroupid=661702862768&product_id=10287571&merchid=2709845&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=%7bproduct_store_id%7d&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&locationid=%7bloc_phyiscal_ms%7d&creative=108421551244&targetid=aud-298625767083:pla-661702862768&campaignid=604141910&adgroupid=30686297164&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpqGpzOu16AIVBXiGCh37hQABEAQYASABEgJ2EvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system--six10-thickened-epoxy-adhesive--10287571?mrkgadid=3333352594&mrkgcl=481&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=pla&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-10287571&product_id=10287571&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&acctid=21700000001687315&dskeywordid=92700049312761900&dsproductgroupid=661702862768&product_id=10287571&merchid=2709845&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=%7bproduct_store_id%7d&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&locationid=%7bloc_phyiscal_ms%7d&creative=108421551244&targetid=aud-298625767083:pla-661702862768&campaignid=604141910&adgroupid=30686297164&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpqGpzOu16AIVBXiGCh37hQABEAQYASABEgJ2EvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
RickK-sounds like a silly question, but how did you manage to get the inserts in without getting epoxy inside the inserts and fouling the threads?
How essential would it be to tap threads and/or use an insert, As opposed to drilling into the epoxy? Same goes for glassing over, is that really necessary?
It will be a nice addition so be able to see over the console while driving and lean on the seat to get some weight off the dogs.
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Unfortunately I don't think the inserts will work for you in this situation. I was in an area on my boat that was flat, over my stringers, no seams to worry about - I could drill 1" holes, fill them with thickened resin and let them harden. Then mark and drill into the resin slug, thread in the inserts, thread in some all thread to protect the threads, gelcoat the area. You have some tough areas - edges of lids where the glass is pretty thin, seams that you are straddling, etc. Tough areas.
Here's my install:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1793.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15066&title=cimg1793&cat=646)
Set the seat carefully back in to make sure it mounts correctly - the all thread gave me a guide. I remove the all thread and have clean threads and can measure the depth for the real mounting bolts.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1791.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14607&title=cimg1791&cat=646)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1790.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14606&title=cimg1790&cat=646)
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You raise a good point.. The edges of the coffin is where the coring ends, not a strong mounting point... However if I'm right on the seam it can potentially drill through the coffin lid and into the edge of the coffin walls which are meant to hold coffin screws.. Hmm.
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Haven't read entire thread...assuming the leaning post's flanges are outside of stringers. If so, you're not gonna have access to allow for thru bolts (unlike the thread above yours where the owner positioned the thru bolts before laying the deck). Over-drilling/epoxy is overkill, in my opinion. As you already have determined the deck thickness, use the largest SS screw diameter the flanges will allow (prob 1/2") with the length 1/4" shorter than the deck thickness. Under-drill the pilot holes so to allow the screw as much purchase (grip) as possible. Dip screws threads into 5200 prior to inserting. Do not drill in screws....do by hand.
The photo below is mine, installed in the exact same manner as I described above. I've subjected my hull to all sorts of nasty weather, whereby excessive forces act against the purchase strength of the screws securing the leaning post flanges to the deck. It hasn't budged.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_8870_copy.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16246&title=img-8870-copy&cat=500)
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Yep. Change of plans for me. I am going to mount it off center so I have good material for the screws to grip , staying away from the tank coffin joints. I will be able to thru bolt one of the legs of the leaning post in the tank coffin, the rest I will make sure are going into cored fiberglass. The lip of the tank coffin isn't cored. It's still a more narrow footprint than my old cooler seat.
Stripers should be here in no time.
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:thumleft:
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What about mounting a board with a larger footprint secured to the deck and the leaning post mounted to the board, then you'll at least be centered albeit with permanently stubbed toes?
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Mounting a permanent board and then a semi-permanent leaning post is the way I think Im going. Not sure if it should be starboard of fiberglass plate sort of thing. This might be better than offsetting...
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Maybe another method could be to bolt a heavy piece of aluminum (1/8" or 3/16") to the leg bottoms, from the bottom up, that reach to where you need to attach in wood backed fiberglass? Looks like they would be 3-4" long and maybe wide?