Mike B's 19-1 Refinish

[RickK]

What have you decided on the transom? I think you are leaning toward leaving it notched. That's fine.
Raising the sole...can you do it and maintain the strength originally designed into the boat?
Think about how your boat was built at the factory... after the hull was created and before it was pulled from the mold the transom core was set into the hull and bonded in place, this helps the hull maintain it's shape. Next, the pre-made stringers were set, laminated in place and also laminated onto the transom core. Now the shape of the hull is set and can be removed from the mold. Sometimes the hulls were popped out of the mold prior to the stringers being set in place but the hull was set into cradles that held the shape.
Next the pre-made liner (sides, casting deck, floor to include the liner on the inside of the transom) was set in and bonded in place. Finally the pre-made cap was set and screwed in place. The strength originally came from the liner being one piece and bonded in many places (like that stuff you chipped and ground off the top of the stringers) in place. If you think about it, the way everything was bonded the parts became one - stringers bonded to the hull, the liner bonded to the stringers and hull sides/transom.
Now look at your hull as it is now - what do you have? How can you re-create the strength originally designed into the boat?
Since the liner is not all one piece anymore would it ever be as strong as it once was? Could you make it as strong again by glassing onto the sides or remaining 3" of the original floor? These are things that need to part of the big picture as you move through this rebuild. Strength comes from all the parts becoming one, even though you might have changed the height of the sole or have modified the casting deck.

[RickK]

Another thing to think about is the roller trailer you have. These type of trailers are great for the purpose designed but they are not great for the boats that sit on top of them.  Boats were not designed to sit on that type of trailer. The pressure points created by the rollers have been known to delaminate hulls. If you are going to keep the trailer I would beef up the contact places with more glass on the inside of the hull. You may not be able to get to every spot because the stringers are in the way.

[umecheme]

The rollers are pretty much shot... was thinking bunks...

[RickK]

One thing you can do is build a cradle a little off the ground, offload the boat into it and complete the inside rebuild.  The cradle being low to the ground saves a ton of climbing in/out of the boat. You can also decide what to do with the trailer or if it's cheaper to find a better one.  Where are you located? 18degrees tell me up north somewhere. If you're way up there maybe you do need a roller trailer to get the boat in/out of the water. A bunk trailer is great for gentle ramps that you can back the boat in and float the boat off.

[RickK]

Remember, take it one day at a time, think through and look ahead as best you can, and pick the brains of the members here. You're doing good 

[umecheme]

Downeast Maine.... 22 Foot average tides...   Lets hope it floats before the outboard is underwater...

[umecheme]

Wont even get the truck tires wet....

[Mwar410]

Haha, and they all say 20’ tides! You could Almost walk across Tampa Bay

[RickK]

I've been through there - Calais, Eastport, Lubeck, Machias - Bay of Fundy tides are extreme. Down here in FL we have 2' tides.

[umecheme]

95% of the wood is out of the transom....





A few posts ago I said the outter foot was not rotten.  Scratch that.  Very rotten. 

Also Rick,  looks like the transom bows out about 3/8 of an inch slowly towards the middle. 

[RickK]

I think that the skin can be pushed back in, maybe with a few 2x4 or x6 screwed to the floor of the garage and pressing in on the transom skin. Build something that is stable and stout so that you can maybe change pressure by backing the trailer against the 2x4 frame until the skin is flat?

[umecheme]

If I cut the liner out.... What would be the best method of regaining stiffness in the hull?  What have other people done?  Trying to think this through.  Tabbing to the hull sides would be a whole lot easier without it there, but i'm hesitant to take the whole cap off and risk losing the shape while trying to save the liner.  I'm assuming tabbing right to the hull would give some stiffness... and maybe glass in some gunnel supports rather than putting the teak ones back in?  How much stiffness would i gain with a layer of biaxial over the hull sides?  Sorry for the rambling... I'm sure someone elses trial and error could save me some pain.

[mshugg]

If I cut the liner out.... What would be the best method of regaining stiffness in the hull?  What have other people done?  Trying to think this through.  Tabbing to the hull sides would be a whole lot easier without it there, but i'm hesitant to take the whole cap off and risk losing the shape while trying to save the liner.  I'm assuming tabbing right to the hull would give some stiffness... and maybe glass in some gunnel supports rather than putting the teak ones back in?  How much stiffness would i gain with a layer of biaxial over the hull sides?  Sorry for the rambling... I'm sure someone elses trial and error could save me some pain.

I cut out the liner on my 200 CCP rebuild to make it three piece.  I added stiffeners to regain stiffness.  My hull is rock solid now.  If I were doing it now, I would add double cut foam core ing to the hull sides instead of the stiffness.  I would have saved a ton of fairing.

Simply adding a layer of glass does little to add stiffness, not that they’re aren’t other reasons to add glass to an old hull.

[RickK]

Mike, have you nailed down the finish on the inside? You mentioned using poly (gelcoat?) up top - the liners are poly. If you look at the liners they are actually just covers for unfinished raw glass. They drop the liner in, stick it to the stringers, transom and hullsides and wham - the ugly glass is hidden. If you pop the liners off and think through either cutting off the top or the bottom to fit after you have decided on the new deck height, you can tab the deck into the hullsides and then glue the liners back on to hide the raw glass. Now you have less to fair.
You can reattach the liner sections that you cut so far, back onto the liner.

[umecheme]

Alllmost got all the wood out....  Whats left at the bottom is a bear.  I think just because its frozen.  Working in 10 degree weather in the garage.  I decided not to waste valuable rebuild time installing the woodstove.  I have a 2 year old, my working time is whatever time she's napping on the weekends.





What grit on the flap wheel discs are people using.  Also, what would be the prescribed thickness of plywood for the transom.  Without looking at it now, i want to say it was 3, 1/2" layers.  I've seen some rebuilds on here with 2, 3/4" layers.  What are everyone's thoughts?