1976 22-2 rebuild, factory inboard to outboard conversion

[theFunsmith]

Thanks gents.

Mshugg, I used coosa bw26 for everything up to this point (transom, knees, bulkheads) and  I have coosa bw20 for the deck and cap core material.

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Looking great. It's nice to have someone just a few steps ahead of me to keep me motivated.

[theFunsmith]

Okay gents. Another amateur question for you. I am on the verge of reinstalling the casting deck. There are some pretty hefty gaps to close between the hull and where the edges of the casting deck previously transitioned to the liner sides. I was thinking of laying up some transitional radius pieces over some waxed PVC or something, and then glassing those into the transition. Does anybody here have a better method for attacking this spot?

[mshugg]

Maybe a picture or two of the casting Eckhart propped in place would help.  Are you keeping your liner?  Or is the gap the result of taking out the liner?

Two things though, if the PVC is staying in place, there’s no reason to wax it, and too large of radius may introduce more flex than you want.

[theFunsmith]

Here is the pic of the gap to be closed. What do you guys think?



I wasn't going to leave any pvc in place, I was just talking about using pvc as a mold for a fiberglass corner transition piece. I can make something out of MDF for a tighter radius if it is a better option. The deck should also provide some structural rigidity in this corner area, I don't see it flexing too much.

[mshugg]

Maybe Dirtwheels or someone with more experience will chime in.  Since you’re not useing the liner aft, I’d be inclined to remove the liner forward and add ledger boards (I’m sure you have lots of scrap Coosa) to the hull sides to sopprt the casting deck.  You will probably need to extend the deck outward a bit, but that’s just a little more Coosa and some glass work.

It seems to me that just creating a radius between the liner and hull would allow for a lot of flexing.

[RickK]

I guess I don't understand your intent with the front of the boat.  I kept the liner and cut the casting deck out early on.  When I reassembled everything, because I raised the floor 3 or so inches, that is the gap I had to fill on the sides of the casting deck to the liner.
Give us some idea on what you want to do.

[theFunsmith]

So my plan currently was to use the deck in its original position, and as it was originally installed attached at the top of the hull. I cut out the two storage boxes aft of the fish box because I wanted to increase the space under the hatches and make better access to the fish box plumbing. I plan to support the casting deck with a full width coosa bulkhead that doubles as the new front end of the storage boxes. I was going to run another coosa bulkhead straight down from the step of the casting deck to act as the stern end of the storage boxes. I may be over thinking this, but I just wanted to fill the gap to put a clean corner from the casting deck and left over liner, to the hull side, between the sole and the gunnel.

Please excuse the poorly hand drawn diagram, I don't know if it will help. Solid blue lines are supposed to be the main deck and new storage box bulkheads. Squiggles are where I planned on reattaching the old liner to the hull sides. Very technical, I know.

[theFunsmith]

Maybe Dirtwheels or someone with more experience will chime in.  Since you’re not useing the liner aft, I’d be inclined to remove the liner forward and add ledger boards (I’m sure you have lots of scrap Coosa) to the hull sides to sopprt the casting deck.  You will probably need to extend the deck outward a bit, but that’s just a little more Coosa and some glass work.

It seems to me that just creating a radius between the liner and hull would allow for a lot of flexing.

Maybe cutting the liner off above the casting deck, and adding some material all around is the way to go. Might look cleaner in the end as well.

[mshugg]

I think it would be cleaner.  That way you’d have the same finish from bow to stern on the hull sides.  The bulkheads you have planned should tie in the aft edge.

[theFunsmith]

Well then I guess I have some more cutting to do.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Lil late, but yea id just ditch the liner above the casting deck too...

This is my new favorite glass cutting blade by the way!

https://www.ebay.com/p/RIDGID-Mtl45-4-5-in-Metal-Cutting-Diamond-Blade/27016386663

[theFunsmith]

It isn't late at all. I was just mocking things up, nothing is glassed in yet. I intended to take it back out to do some fine tuning and to install the bulkheads anyway. Thank you guys for the replies. I'm going to get after it this evening. Dirt, that wheel looks mean.

[theFunsmith]

Got some more done this weekend. I got the casting deck trimmed up even further (thanks gents), I got the aft casting deck support bulkhead and some supports for the bow end installed. They allowed me to temporarily install the casting deck and draw a bunch more lines and take a pile more measurements. I now have the deck marked up, so I know where it has to grow and by how much. I am currently laying out the forward bulkhead under the deck, to box in the storage and making some access points for servicing the fish box plumbing.




After dark last night, I retreated to the garage to try my hand at my first deck hatch mold. I am not confident but I am hopeful. I'll separate it tonight and see how I did.

[RickK]

Another thing to think about is running your wiring forward from the console for lights and trolling motor and how you're going to do this - running PVC pipe forward and aft is ideal. You have to plan for the routing of this in advance. I spent days just staring at the hull mentally planning where I wanted to end up. It's ok to do that