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Author Topic: Perch's 222 rebuild  (Read 4023 times)

November 30, 2018, 02:51:11 PM
Reply #15

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2018, 02:51:11 PM »






Haven't made too much progress these past weeks but with the cooler weather rolling in it will be a different story. Will hopefully get to the transom within the next week then start on the cap, stringers and bulkheads. Happy to be done sanding, that's for sure!

November 30, 2018, 07:54:44 PM
Reply #16

RickK

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #16 on: November 30, 2018, 07:54:44 PM »
Got her nice and clean!  One thought would be to put small fiberglass straps across the stringers to keep the shape, every foot or so, so they don't distort when you pour in the foam.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

November 30, 2018, 08:25:37 PM
Reply #17

Tampa Bay Mike

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #17 on: November 30, 2018, 08:25:37 PM »
Getting it all sanded down is progress enough! I did most of that in August and it was brutal.

And X2 on what Rick said about the stringers. I clamped a 2x4 along the side of mine and it still managed to bulge it out a little. You would think the expanding foam would just go out the top but it tries to go everywhere.

December 04, 2018, 06:15:05 AM
Reply #18

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2018, 06:15:05 AM »


Started on the transom last night, getting the 4" existing floor ledge I left on is difficult since I'm dealing with 2 floors and a lot of fastened shims from the first dingus who rebuilt this boat. Thanks for the input on pouring the foam in the stringers, never really though about it moving them around.. Figured any excess would expand vertically.

Anyone think I should core and glass over those 4" sections that run down the center of the boat on both sides like there was originally? Or should I just roll with what I have and set a few layers of glass over it?

December 04, 2018, 06:41:01 AM
Reply #19

RickK

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2018, 06:41:01 AM »
What is your plan on the transom?  Are you removing the core and replacing? You can use a sawzall on the ledge - you can lay the blade so it is flush with the transom and cut along the transom. Which 4" sections are you referring to? The ones left and right of the drains and thru-hulls?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 04, 2018, 03:52:13 PM
Reply #20

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2018, 03:52:13 PM »
What is your plan on the transom?  Are you removing the core and replacing? You can use a sawzall on the ledge - you can lay the blade so it is flush with the transom and cut along the transom. Which 4" sections are you referring to? The ones left and right of the drains and thru-hulls?

Yes, planning to remove the wood and replacing with coosa. The wood transom right now is pretty solid but I can’t see why I would rebuild a boat with all composite and leave a wood transom. The 4” sections are shown in prior pics, looks like a wood strip on each side running down the center from stern to bow. When I removed it, the wood was turned into dirt from rot and water intrusion. Looks like some boats have it and some don’t.

December 04, 2018, 04:05:57 PM
Reply #21

RickK

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2018, 04:05:57 PM »
ok, I agree - if you're this much into it, I'd replace the transom too.  Easiest way to remove the core is to take a skill saw and make vertical cuts almost to the outer skin and then use an air chisel to peel back the material between cuts.

Ok, you're talking about the piece that is right down the middle.  I see in one pic where you have pulled it out. Some people put scraps of composite material back in after they remove that piece and some even fill with resin and chopped glass strands.  My 170 didn't have this piece.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 29, 2018, 04:39:54 PM
Reply #22

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #22 on: December 29, 2018, 04:39:54 PM »
Well here is the progress from the transom today. Unfortunately I punched a good size hole though the top in one spot, the glass is unbelievably brittle. Looks like the one who build this previously enclosed it the easy way and left the exiting transom, then built it up. I'm happy I decided to do the transom since the wood on the top section was in rough shape and the wood in the lower section appears to be to soupy. Planning to do the stringers and transom once I get this tear out done & my fuel tank should be built within the next few weeks.

Any recommendations on tank size? I'm pulling the trigger Monday and don't want to make a costly mistake. My plan is to go with a 60 gallon.






December 29, 2018, 06:48:30 PM
Reply #23

RickK

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #23 on: December 29, 2018, 06:48:30 PM »
So what was the Honda sitting on?  I saw the big piece of aluminum and assume that was holding the upper and lower portions together. Amazing that it lasted as long as it did.
Frankly, at this point, I think I would lay a 2x4 (or 1x4) across the cap about 2ft forward of the transom and secure it to the cap to hold the shape of the hull.  Then I would take a saw (of your choice) and cut the transom totally out, leaving a 2" lip around the outer edge (and we have some rebuilds that don't leave anything).  You have no idea how well any of the outer glass is attached based on what you mentioned.  You'll save so much time doing it this way.  You lay a sheet of melamine or formica covered wood against the open transom, secure it - you can screw from the inside out or glue blocks of wood along the outside of the hull and screw the wood into the blocks from the outside. Many ways to do this.
Make sure the sheet of wood you use is taller than the finished transom by at least a 3-4 inches so you can use the added height to clamp the layers of cloth and you can flip the layers out of the boat until you've trimmed them in and are ready to add the resin to them. Make sure you do a 4", 8" and 12" lamination overlap on the hull sides and hull bottom - that will make a nice outer glass thickness - around 3/16". After you add the core you will then repeat the lamination schedule and your transom will be part of the hull at that point. Don't forget to add a piece of PVC pipe at the beginning of the process so you can control the low point in the hull.I can give you a link that explains this.

You'll end up with a perfectly flat and solid transom this way.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 30, 2018, 08:17:24 AM
Reply #24

Tampa Bay Mike

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2018, 08:17:24 AM »
 :iagree: I'm with Rick on this one. I left the outer piece of glass and added on to the inside but in hindsight it may have been easier to just cut it off and start fresh.

January 13, 2019, 03:22:53 PM
Reply #25

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #25 on: January 13, 2019, 03:22:53 PM »




Just got my gas tank in a few days ago, it's 59.5 gal. I ended up subbing my transom/stringers to someone locally and traded out the work. Getting those two things knocked off the list puts me a lot further ahead than originally anticipated. I will be going with a Coosa transom and a divinycell deck/cap.. Finally had to bite the bullet and order the materials. 

January 30, 2019, 10:49:16 PM
Reply #26

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #26 on: January 30, 2019, 10:49:16 PM »
Welp so much for the original guy doing the transom & stringers but thankfully I've found someone else locally who can help me out. Since I have materials sitting in the garage and there's a console with 1,000 holes (looks like swiss cheese) I've been knocking a little out each night this week. Its slowly coming together but a learning process for sure. Getting a new console would make my life a little easier but I've fallen in love with the one I have and don't think I can due with something else.

Anyone have some suggestions on how to do to attach mounting surfaces to the inside of the console? I think it would stiffen it up which would be nice & give me a good place to mount some heavy electronics like amps, smart charger, etc.






January 31, 2019, 05:58:16 AM
Reply #27

RickK

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2019, 05:58:16 AM »
I used 3/4" resin coated plywood.
I would lay some 1.5oz CSM all over the inside and after it hardens, scruff up where you want to mount the plywood. Mix up some thickened resin and trowel it onto the back of the plywood, press the plywood onto the spot and put a couple cinder blocks on top to weigh it down.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

February 03, 2019, 08:41:53 PM
Reply #28

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2019, 08:41:53 PM »
Got the old transom out this weekend and started to get the stringers ready for foam. Before I took Rick's suggestion on removing the entire transom, I cut it completely out and checked the condition of the original transom glass. It surprisingly turned out to be in pretty good shape minus the few holes put in it during the removal stage, think I'm going to roll with it for now.





Threw a bulk head in at the back and put some extra 1.5" Coosa to use as my center stringer (which will also serve for a great for resting point on the fuel tank). The boat got real weak after the transom came out and I was getting a little worried. The glass over the stringers will be "sacrificial" in a sense. I figured the foam will have no room to expand vertically except for the holes I use to fill them with so there will be no voids. Once they're filled I"ll add foam to the tops where they sag slightly or just cut it out, top the foam off, cut it level with existing height, then re-glass the tops. This resin is kicking off pretty quick now with the higher temps!!

February 10, 2019, 05:38:01 PM
Reply #29

perchman97

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Re: Perch's 222 rebuild
« Reply #29 on: February 10, 2019, 05:38:01 PM »


Got the two 3/4" sheets of Coosa cut out this weekend and bonded together, now I just need to glass them in. Since the existing transom isn't 100% straight and there's a little gap between it & the Coosa looking from the top down, whats the best method of making sure this gap gets closed? Also, do I need to run the glass up the back first then set the transom? Or can the transom glassed in from the front then I can glass in the back piece?

I have 6 10" pieces of all thread with lock nuts and washers I was planning to use on 2x8's & a ton of clamps but still think there will be little voids that are not visible. Any help is appreciated! :sign0104:

 

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