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Author Topic: '76 22 Osprey re-build  (Read 19790 times)

December 02, 2014, 05:29:35 PM
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Que Pasa

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'76 22 Osprey re-build
« on: December 02, 2014, 05:29:35 PM »
Gonna, be rebuilding my 22 in the near future. Would like to get some opinions on the floor issue. I have been reading lots of rebuilds and would like to get some feedback on the best way to tie in the floor. I have seen it done both ways, tied into the liner and tied into the the shell sides. Question is, over the long haul which has held up better (ie:stress cracks at joints)? Like to get some feed back from those who have run with it like that for a while. Thanks.

December 02, 2014, 06:02:53 PM
Reply #1

RickK

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2014, 06:02:53 PM »
When I changed out the sole in my 170 the first time I cut the old sole out with a skill saw leaving a lip around the perimeter.  I then laid the new sole on top of the lip, glued, screwed and glassed in and it lasted 14 years. I got some delam from the underneath, decided to take it out and then for some reason, I went crazy on it ;-)
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 02, 2014, 06:36:52 PM
Reply #2

Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2014, 06:36:52 PM »
We need, require and mandate that there be a LARGE amount of boat PORN here :shock:



So where are the pics as this thread is useless without picture  :mrgreen:

December 02, 2014, 09:41:44 PM
Reply #3

Que Pasa

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2014, 09:41:44 PM »
The Boat is untouched from original. Getting my plan together before carnage. Can post pics of it, but they'd be pretty boring. Rick that seems to be the route most take? Trying to get a feel if that is the best option.

December 03, 2014, 05:18:55 AM
Reply #4

RickK

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2014, 05:18:55 AM »
Quote from: "Que Pasa"
Rick that seems to be the route most take? Trying to get a feel if that is the best option.
Does the boat still have the wiring trough?  If so, that is what I had on my 170 and left it and laid the new sole on top of it. I didn't see anything wrong with using the trough, some don't like the trough because water can run through there freely - maybe they are worried about water and wiring, but if the wiring is in good condition, with no splices in it, it will be fine.  Mine was for 30+ years.   Plus the trough kept the bilge water tight from the top of the boat.
On my new rebuild I decided to run rigging tubes - a lot of people do this.  Most close in the transom and have a good place to hide where the wiring come up. I did not close my transom so I needed to figure out how to bring the wiring up and protect the bilge.  You can see my solution by looking at my rebuild.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 03, 2014, 07:15:53 AM
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gran398

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2014, 07:15:53 AM »
You have a lot to chew on.

You'll first need to decide upon the transom configuration, open or closed, and work it backwards.Then HP, and how your power will mount. If the transom is closed, you can mount via a porta-bracket, or if you like to swim/dive, an Armstrong bracket. Makes entry/exit from the water a lot easier.

Then you'll need to decide the deck (floor, sole) height. If your transom is open and your engine weight low, you'll only need to raise the deck height an inch or thereabouts. So you can leave the former deck edges in and re-floor on top. If you do this you can leave the liner wall sides intact and tie-in there. The downside to this method is you're building on top of an edge which is cored with plywood 40+ years old.

There are a lot of great rebuilds here, everything from quick and easy to tunnel hulls to full-blown strips where the builder began with a fiberglass shell. They are all different. The good news is that there is so much history, the big mistakes can be avoided by research. So check them all out, especially the first portions, where you are now. Even if you don't have time to read the discussion, just scroll through the first few pages of pics.

Good luck sir, welcome to the fam! :cheers:

December 03, 2014, 10:07:37 AM
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Que Pasa

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2014, 10:07:37 AM »
Quote from: "gran398"
Then you'll need to decide the deck (floor, sole) height. If your transom is open and your engine weight low, you'll only need to raise the deck height an inch or thereabouts. So you can leave the former deck edges in and re-floor on top. If you do this you can leave the liner wall sides intact and tie-in there. The downside to this method is you're building on top of an edge which is cored with plywood 40+ years old

I will be closing the transom and using a porta bracket with a 150 Yam 2 stroke. And as you mention I am not keen on joining to 2 inches of 40 year old ply, sealed or not. I do want finished gunnels. So I was thinking of leaving the bottom skin of the floor all the way out to the middle of the stringer. Then removing the wet foam if it is wet. Then reinforcing the skin and laying glass all the way to the other stringer. Then use a thicker core to get some height and finishing the floor on top of that. This way I would keep the integrity of the liner.

December 03, 2014, 01:25:52 PM
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RickK

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2014, 01:25:52 PM »
Quote from: "Que Pasa"
I will be closing the transom and using a porta bracket with a 150 Yam 2 stroke. And as you mention I am not keen on joining to 2 inches of 40 year old ply, sealed or not. I do want finished gunnels. So I was thinking of leaving the bottom skin of the floor all the way out to the middle of the stringer. Then removing the wet foam if it is wet. Then reinforcing the skin and laying glass all the way to the other stringer. Then use a thicker core to get some height and finishing the floor on top of that. This way I would keep the integrity of the liner.
You may be making a bigger deal of this then it needs to be.  The way you want to do it is going to be very hard to do.  If you lay the new sole on top of the "lip" you are going to be gluing it to the lip and the stringers, adding a filet of putty and then tabbing into the liner sides a bit plus you'll be covering the entire sole with glass and tieing that to the liner sides.  Any way you go you'll be tieing into the liner.  Doing it your way you're already compromising the liner so don't bother, cut it out.
I would not hesitate tieing into the lip/liner/stringers as long as it all looks to be sound.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 03, 2014, 03:58:01 PM
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Que Pasa

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2014, 03:58:01 PM »
Gotcha, what do you recommend for coring. Was thinking of divinycell for the floor. The Transom was going to be marine ply. A

December 03, 2014, 04:07:20 PM
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gran398

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2014, 04:07:20 PM »
Agree with Rick. You'll want to raise the deck height with a closed transom a solid two inches to self-bail with the extra weight and COG change. ....if you go the route you're thinking, you'll have to add 1.5 inches of core.....overkill and way too much weight. Plus a chitload of unnecessary time, money, and trouble.

Cut it all out, clean out the stringers...tab the stringers inside and outside, refoam. Then add to the stringer tops as needed for your deck height. You can even add 1.5 inches higher as spray foam in the stringers, cut and trim, then wrap the tops fore to aft with glass. You'll have higher stringers with minimal weight gain.

If you want to leave in the liner side walls, that's fine. Shoot a bit of foam between the side walls and the vertical portion of the hull..push and work it/spread between the two parts before it kicks, will stiffen it up. Then deck to that.

December 03, 2014, 10:24:54 PM
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gran398

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2014, 10:24:54 PM »


Lars's 170...cleaning her up. Leaving the balance of the liner in place.

December 04, 2014, 07:52:56 AM
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Aquasport Commodore

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2014, 07:52:56 AM »
I like your questions which means your thinking. I like the Divinycell however for a 3/4" 4x8 sheet your looking around $235 a sheet and needing 5 sheets. If you look at Nidacore at $65 a sheet, your lighter and just as strong if not stronger, and ahead of the game in the wallet. Both will be handled the same way with glass on both sides. Just put a small section of Divinycell in the deck core for attaching a tower later if that's your plan. Since your going to use composite, why not use 1 sheet of Coosa Bluewater 26 1 1/2  for the transom. No rot issues ever, much less work with having to over drill, fill with epoxy, then redrill to keep the rot monster away and will be lighter than that ply.

Do you plan on keeping your hull liner or cutting it away? If you take it out, you could attach ledgers to the hull side or use fiberglass square tubes as a ledge then lay the floor on top of those. There are so many ways to do these boats, it's up to you to pick which method words for you. Last question, do you plan on using Epoxy, Vinyl or Poly for your rebuild?  Put up that photo of your boat so we can see your canvas.

December 04, 2014, 10:25:33 AM
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Que Pasa

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December 04, 2014, 10:31:50 AM
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gran398

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2014, 10:31:50 AM »





December 04, 2014, 10:51:04 AM
Reply #14

Que Pasa

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Re: 22 Future re-build
« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2014, 10:51:04 AM »
This is how she looked the day I bought her. Told ya it would be boring. I 'm try to post some more.








 

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