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Author Topic: WET FOAM IN THE STRINGERS??  (Read 1505 times)

July 01, 2005, 06:19:21 PM
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Foxhole

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WET FOAM IN THE STRINGERS??
« on: July 01, 2005, 06:19:21 PM »
I have a 1975 222 that will not self-bail. If the scupper plugs are out. You will go down with the ship!  Any one have any ideas on getting the foam out of the stringers with out chopping the boat up? I was able to get all the other foam out by installing 4" deck plates in the floor.  I wondered about cutting a small access hole maybe 3” in the transom and digging it out from the back. I am not sure if that will cause the transom to get week. All the wood {floor and transom} seem pretty dry.


Thanks

Foxhole
My 8 year old races dirt oval karts. It is all about the kids learning to drive and race safety.  

Foxhole MotorSports
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July 07, 2005, 09:08:47 PM
Reply #1

Radioshop

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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2005, 09:08:47 PM »
An old radio tech trick for removing foam insulation from RV walls is to use aresol brake cleaner.  I would think this method, given the ammount of foam you're talking about, isn't the most practical method.  Find a chemical that eats the foam.  Maybe lacquer thinner?  Pour in and reclaim at the end?  I'd punch two holes into the stringer ends through the transom, about the size of a garboard drain plug, then use a garboard drain plug to seal the hole.   You asked, about foam removal, but let me go on record as saying I don't think this is a good idea.
1973 22.2 Osprey - Sand Bar II
Miamuh, Florida

July 08, 2005, 12:03:44 AM
Reply #2

Foxhole

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WET FOAM IN THE STRINGERS??
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2005, 12:03:44 AM »
Radioshop
Thanks for the ideas. I was begening to think know one would reply. My idea is to get the waterlogged foam out and replace it. On some of the foam I have already taken out. I squeezed the water out like a wet sponge. If I can get some of the water weight out maybe it will self bail again? I assume aquasport intended these to be self-bailing scuppers????
I did try acetone on a piece of the foam in a cup on my workbench and it didn’t work. Your idea of trying to dissolve it is a good one. Brake cleaner might work. I will try it out on a sample piece and see what happens. I think I can dig it out from a hole in the transom. Do you think a 3” hole in the transom, Into the end of the stringer would cause structural problems?

Thanks for the ideas please keep them coming.

 Foxhole
My 8 year old races dirt oval karts. It is all about the kids learning to drive and race safety.  

Foxhole MotorSports
Proudly Sponsored by
www.Stitchesofoz.com
Dress shirts for us with beer bellies.

July 08, 2005, 08:29:27 AM
Reply #3

Argo

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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2005, 08:29:27 AM »
As long as you know how to fix it there should be no problem.  I have seen guys fill in the hole from a stern drive and have no problem with structure.

July 09, 2005, 04:04:12 PM
Reply #4

Radioshop

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« Reply #4 on: July 09, 2005, 04:04:12 PM »
I would be concerned that boring a 3" hole in the transom might be like opening a pandora's box, unless you really sealed it well.  An outdrive hole is a different animal because by definition, you have access to the backside, which allows for laying glass from the back to add support.  In your case, only being able to access it from the outside, I think you're looking for trouble, because the backside won't be bonded to the adjacent fibeglass.  It would also be difficult to waterproof the backside, unless you used epoxy putty, but then can you be sure the repair is flush and, bonded on the backside?  This is why I reccomended the garboard drain plug.  You can easily epoxy the 1" hole, then you have a brass receptacle that's basically designed to do the job, keep the water out or, allow for draining in the future.  Of course, the only way you'll be able to get the foam out of a 1" hole is if you can disolve it.  Lot's of 'ifs" here.
1973 22.2 Osprey - Sand Bar II
Miamuh, Florida

 

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