Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: MikeHall on January 10, 2019, 06:55:36 PM
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Well there are not too many of these boats for sale in project form so this was the best one for the price and sorta kind of local. I had been talking to the guy who had this one for sale and talked him down a bit but, I am not sure I talked him down enough. The boat was 5 hours away so I made the trip today to find it far more beat up than I would have liked it to be. The boat is a South Carolina boat and I know oyster beds are all over but goodness, it looks like they stayed in the oysters. The keel has some fairly extensive damage as well as the chines but nothing I would be able to fix. The floors are solid other than one little area beside the console. The transom seems to be solid but further inspection will come later. The floors have a very nice molded in texture that I would sure like to figure out how to keep somehow when the major rebuild starts. Plans would be for a complete rebuild like all these other rebuilds. I have on hand a case 1" nidacore ,a pile of coosa board and a full roll of 1708 already. I also have about 10 gallons of epoxy but I think for this project I am going just to use poly or maybe vinyl ester so I can work faster. Anyhow, first things I need to address is fixing the horrible repair work done to the bottom of the hull. I assume to do it correctly I would need to remove the floors and glass from the top and bottom? I really think the boat is solid enough to fish in the spring and I may re-power it with a good running 200 black max and start the major overhaul next winter.
Sorry for the horrible pictures but I just got it home right before dark.
Mike
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Welcome Mike, nice boat like you said these old AS are getting hard to find consider yourself lucky. Your looks like it will be a nice platform to rebuild and not much different than ive seen for its age, good luck and keep us in the loop on your rebuild.
David
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I pressure washed the boat out today, I think with some actual cleaner it may clean up decent. I have so many ideas of how I want to build this boat but I think I need to get it repowered and a few fiberglass and gelcoat issues fixed and go do some fishing in it this spring. Once I get the motors removed I will know more about the transom but it seems it is rock solid.
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I think a little bleach and a p-washer will show you her real colors and shape.
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Yep, I will make a trip to the dollar store and buy up a bunch of "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner which will removed almost all the stains even lighten up bad rust stains. I may also spend some time removing all the vinyl graphics and stripping the bottom paint this weekend. I assume the best way to strip the bottom paint is with paint stripper correct?
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I worked on removing all those cracked vinyl graphics today. I finished one side and sure not looking forward to the other side. I also stripped some of the bottom paint which was fairly easy with Citristrip and a stiff brush. Just brushed a light coat of Citristrip on, leave it about 15 minutes, then scrub is down with the stiff brush. I think the Gelcoat on this boat could be brought back out but with the damage on the chines I am going to just paint everything after the repairs are done. In the picture you can see the two large damaged areas which I am going to completly grind out and repair correctly. Someone just crammed some fiberglass in the damaged areas and called it a day.
I have been looking around for a Bracket and I am kind of shocked at how much they go for, even well used ones sell for over $1000.
Mike
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Yep, I will make a trip to the dollar store and buy up a bunch of "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner which will removed almost all the stains even lighten up bad rust stains. I may also spend some time removing all the vinyl graphics and stripping the bottom paint this weekend. I assume the best way to strip the bottom paint is with paint stripper correct?
Make sure you really do a good job of rinsing the bleach off everything - it's corrosive.
As for the bottom paint - it's not easy even with paint remover. I tried it with my 230 and gave up because of the stain embedded in the gelcoat - I ended up recoating the hull with a color of bottom paint that worked for me (white - it lives on a trailer).
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Welcome aboard, looks like a good platform to work on. I'm guessing since you have a bunch of nicacore and coosa laying around that you have some idea of what you're in for?
Looking forward to seeing your progress. Oh, and if you're using the gallery here for your pics, try clicking on the "linked image" instead of "linked thumb" and they will post full size.
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I haven't put any bleach on anything as of yet but thank you for the trip. The bottom paint on this boat comes off so easy maybe its not even bottom paint. It is thick almost like a latex house house paint and it comes off with Citristrip very easy. I want to get all the bottom pain off and start working on all the damaged areas to the bottom of the hull. I really wish I could flip the over for this work and I may try that after getting those motors removed. I am going to pull the center console as well and check out the fuel tank to see if its in good enough shape for a season or two of fishing before I tear this thing apart.
I have a 1991 black max 200 that I could put on this boat but I would really like to get a Yamaha Saltwater series or something. I have had a number of Yamaha powered boats and those motors were always rock solid. I was thinking about finding a nice clean 200hp but may settle on a 150hp.
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Welcome aboard, looks like a good platform to work on. I'm guessing since you have a bunch of nicacore and coosa laying around that you have some idea of what you're in for?
Looking forward to seeing your progress. Oh, and if you're using the gallery here for your pics, try clicking on the "linked image" instead of "linked thumb" and they will post full size.
You have no idea, I have had this nidacore and coosa for years and I have jumped from project to project until now I have found myself with this Aquasport. I started out wanting a go fast flats tunnel hull like a talon or one of those SBC boats and my idea was to take a Liberator 21 hull and fabricate my own flats boat. I then jumped to the idea that maybe I should just design and completely build my own tunnel hull flats boat so I purchased the Tunnel hull design software and the book and started my research and design. I worked up a nice looking design and started planning that project but shortly after I bought a house. Of course my house sucks in a lot of time and funds so that huge project has been stalled. I later still wanting to build some kind of flats boat bounced around with the idea of using some popular bass boat hulls to my last prospect was as 226 hurricane deck boat which I still have. I was going to fabricate a complete top cap for that hurricane and even that project was going to turn into a huge time hog. So i found this aquasport and after talking the guy down to $700 I made the trip to get it. I was ready to start tearing it down to do the rebuild but, I am positive it is solid enough for a season or two of fishing. One reason I really want to rebuild something is not ony because that is just what I like to do but also because I have all these thousands of dollars in supplies and even piles of new hardware such as flush hinges, pup up cleats, controls, Seastar steering and the list goes on. I need to use all this stuff or sell it. This 222 is going to fit the bill for what I want. I have outgrown the go fast idea and now I just want something that can fish the bays and flats with ease and have plenty or room for my kids and dog to enjoy our fishing trips.
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Yeah, before flipping that baby over with a fuel tank in her (you drained it?) and maybe hydraulics, this should drive serious thinking. Also, how are you going to support it once flipped? Something to think about. You need support on the inside (think floor/stringers) and cap. I built inside frames that the boat was lowered onto (upside down) to support the hull/stringers for the bottom finish.
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Yeah, before flipping that baby over with a fuel tank in her (you drained it?) and maybe hydraulics, this should drive serious thinking. Also, how are you going to support it once flipped? Something to think about. You need support on the inside (think floor/stringers) and cap. I built inside frames that the boat was lowered onto (upside down) to support the hull/stringers for the bottom finish.
I would build a wooden buck that rested on the floors and any other sturdy spot such as the transom. I would for sure remove the console, tank and the hydraulic system is already not hooked up so it would be removed with the console. I have flipped a few boats before but nothing quite this big.
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Sounds like you've got the boat building bug! You definitely have a good hull for doing what you want to do and it sounds like you have a lot of what you need already to make it great.
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Sounds like you've got the boat building bug! You definitely have a good hull for doing what you want to do and it sounds like you have a lot of what you need already to make it great.
I have had this bug ever sense I sold my Backcountry 201 many years ago. I am so glad I found a boat I am confident that will be what I want. I was not exactly sure how well that hurricane would do in some of the rougher water which you encounter when fishing in passes or what not but I bet this boat will do just fine. The last boat I had a 23ft V2380 Carolina skiff I purchase from an estate sale. It was huge which I liked but in anything other than light chop it would beat you to death while trying to drown you and there was no break from it no matter how you turned into the waves or wind. Although I hated the ride and how wet it was, I did like all the room and 5 guys could be fishing and not be anywhere close to getting in one another way.
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One thing I am noticing on most every rebuild is that the the floor is bonded directly the the sides of the hull. Will this cause any issues in the future with possible shrinkage and pulling in on the hull sides? Only reason I ask is yet another project I had years ago which was a old Skater 18 tunnel hull had an issue where you could see the line in the sides of the hull where the floor was glassed to it. It does seem like that hull was very thin on the sides and this 222 of mine seems rock solid on the sides. I was just curious if this could be a possible issues or not. My hull has acomplete inner liner so the floors, casting deck and all of that could possible be removed as a huge unit. This also means the floor is not attached to the hull sides.
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If the boat has a liner, I think that most people cut the floor out leaving a lip around the edge. The new floor is then bonded to the top of the lip. This requires raising thestringers a little, but gets the boat back together close to its original form without too mouth extra work.
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I spent the afternoon stripped all the decals off the other side today. The pictures sure make the boat look better than it really is but, its not a bad starting point at all. This week if I have time, I am going to remove the motors, console, fuel tank or at least drain it and start the process of flipping the hull on the trailer. The last boat I flipped was a 21ft Liberator tunnel hull but that hull was maybe 1200lbs where as this one is more like 2000lbs right? Either way, I will get it flipped this week "hopefully" and get started on the bottom repairs. The more I look at the boat I am thinking about going back with gray and dark blue. My truck is dark blue and silver but the original gray on the boat would be close enough. What are thoughts on re-gelcoating the bottom vs a good topside paint? I am not going to leave the boat in the water so I do not want to use bottom paint.
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I used VC Performance Epoxy paint on the bottom of my boat and wet sanded it down to 1200 grit - nice and hard and shiny. Here is a pic showing the shine on the bottom paint (boat is upside down on the trailer).
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG1527.JPG)
https://interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/antifouling/vc-performance-epoxy
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Thanks for sharing what paint you used. I had not thought about an epoxy paint for this project. That bottom sure looks slick.
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The last boat I flipped was a 21ft Liberator tunnel hull but that hull was maybe 1200lbs where as this one is more like 2000lbs right?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/574/68AS_all_models_86-6.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2861&title=as-all-models-86-6&cat=574)
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The last boat I flipped was a 21ft Liberator tunnel hull but that hull was maybe 1200lbs where as this one is more like 2000lbs right?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/574/68AS_all_models_86-6.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2861&title=as-all-models-86-6&cat=574)
I had seen the specs but I suspect that even as solid as this boat seems it has some water saturation in the foam which would for sure increase the weight. The stated weight is "dry" :mrgreen:
Just wondering, does the stated dry weight include power or just bare hull? I mean dry would mean with out fuel not without power right?
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Just wondering, does the stated dry weight include power or just bare hull? I mean dry would mean with out fuel not without power right?
Unless stated otherwise, I have always understood "dry weight" as listed by the boat manufacturer as a completed hull, no fluids (think fuel or any other fluids) as it leaves the factory and heads to the Dealer. The Dealer then installs the selected power. If manufacturer does the power install then yes it should include the motor/transmission/shaft and prop possibly but again without fluids.
Just the way I always have looked at these hull weights. :ScrChin:
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The old Johnsons are gone. I took a few pictures from inside the bilge and i was shocked at just how clean it was in there. Most of the time the bilge in an old boat is absolutely nasty but not this one.
I found a 2007 honda BF150 for a decent price. It seems like that would be a decent motor for this boat. Any thoughts on the Honda's and if a 150 would be satisfactory on this hull?
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I don't have any firsthand knowledge with Hondas but a 150 in general seems to be a popular choice.
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It won't be a speed demon - you might be happier with a 175 or 200.
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It won't be a speed demon - you might be happier with a 175 or 200.
I am kind of outgrowing the speed desire but I do think a little more go would be nice. The problem is a 200hp 4 stroke weights a 1/4 ton. haha I was looking around and a nice low time optimax 225 may be an option. I plan to either build a bracket or if I find one buy one. I have already priced the aluminum and I have someone that can waterjet the parts for me. I have always had a jack plate on my boats so I am not sure if I need to go with a 24" setback and a jack plate or just forget about the jack plate and go with a 30" setback. It seem no one uses a jack plate on these boats and for sure not with a bracket. I may be fooling myself to think this boat will get anywhere close to the same waters that I used to take my backcountry. I mean 12" of water was no problem drifting along with the motor up, that may not be the case with this boat. I am at some point going to move the fuel tank as far forward as I can and the bracket I build will have as much volume as possible to increase the flotation.
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I have not been able to do anything on the boat the last few days but I did do a little digging into the transom and I may better go ahead and replace it. It is mostly solid but the very center of the wood core seems to be very wet and soft. I could not see any flexing when trying to move the motors around but that does not mean its not flexing some. I sure wanted to wait until I did the whole restoration before I did the transom but I may have to split up the rebuild into stages. I want to fish this spring so I have a butt load to get done even without rebuilding the transom.
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I am just going to build my own bracket for this project. I have access to a water jet cutter so I went ahead and drew up a cad model of what I think I will build. I am going to eventually install trim tabs so I left plenty of room for them to be mounted. I added a bit of taper to the flotation part of the bracket so it did not too overly boxy. If my waterline remains the same on the boat there will be an additional water displacement of just shy of 20 gallons or 4610 cu" which would be around 170lbs extra buoyancy. The actual bracket looks like it would be about 100lbs although I may reduce the swim platform thickness from 1/4" down to 3/16 or maybe even 1/8" thick which would drop a lot of weight yet not really loose much strength for something like this. I just worked this up so there may be changes made before I build one.
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I've seen a few threads here saying the transom felt solid but once they dug into it they found it was soaked so planning to replace it is probably a safe bet.
That bracket looks great. It's always nice to have access to nice toys.
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I've seen a few threads here saying the transom felt solid but once they dug into it they found it was soaked so planning to replace it is probably a safe bet.
That bracket looks great. It's always nice to have access to nice toys.
I agree, It sure seems rock solid but its better to know than to hope so.
I have access to all kinds of fabrication toys and I myself have plenty to play with but nothing like a water jet or high powered laser. I am going to check with the guy that laser cuts as it may be faster and with better results than the water jet. The laser is a 5 Kilowatt fiber laser so it slices most all metals with ease and with a very nice finish. The biggest issue I will have is welding all this aluminum. I can weld aluminum decent with my tig welder but I will just find someone that knows exactly what they are doing to welding up the very thing that holds my motor on the boat. :lolG:
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I am going to eventually install trim tabs so I left plenty of room for them to be mounted.
You may wish to mount the platform flush with the original cut out. Would also add a little extra mounting height adjustment to the motor as well as tab actuator space though I believe they make shorter ones for a tight fit.
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You may wish to mount the platform flush with the original cut out. Would also add a little extra mounting height adjustment to the motor as well as tab actuator space though I believe they make shorter ones for a tight fit.
I was thinking about making the platform a little higher but then thought It would be nice if it was not too far above the water line to make boarding the boat potentially easier. I really drew this platform up to see how much material would be needed and honestly now I can see why they cost so much as they require a lot of aluminum to build. I am going to play around with a few ideas and maybe try to gain some additional buoyancy.
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Boarding (I'm guessing after a swim/dive) is best handled with a ladder. My B Bracket platform had a folding ladder that stowed away under the platform on the port side. Because of the angle that it folded down to in the water, it was (and still is) the easiest boarding ladder I've ever used. To deploy the ladder you reached under the platform and released a catch, let the ladder slide out parallel to the platform and then unfolded. The angle formed was like a stair rather than perpendicular to the platform. I miss that ladder (and the bracket).
Good luck.
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Boarding (I'm guessing after a swim/dive) is best handled with a ladder. My B Bracket platform had a folding ladder that stowed away under the platform on the port side. Because of the angle that it folded down to in the water, it was (and still is) the easiest boarding ladder I've ever used. To deploy the ladder you reached under the platform and released a catch, let the ladder slide out parallel to the platform and then unfolded. The angle formed was like a stair rather than perpendicular to the platform. I miss that ladder (and the bracket).
Good luck.
I was considering designing some kind of pull out ladder for the bracket. I was wanting to make it an actual part of the bracket that like you said pulled straight out then would hang while in use. It will not be too complicated to design something up and make it an integrated part of the platform. The only thing would be making sure locking mechanism is always secure with no chance or rattling open while under way but that shouldn't be too difficult to come up with.
Just to be sure, I had read that for every 12" offset you move the motor up 1" correct? I have a 24" offset so I move the motor mounting holes up 2". It may not be that important for my project as I will be using a jack plate as well but if the bracket turns out nice others may want one as well and I want the design to work for use with a jack plate or without.
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Well nothing new on the actual boat but, I did go buy a 2013 suzuki DF175. The problem is I bought it in boxes as it had a valve break and damaged a piston and the head. The cylinder walls look fine. I bought it so cheap that I figured that if I could not get it fixed I would just part it out. Motor only had 960hrs and was very well maintained. I have not been able to find a good used head so I may start searching for someone to weld up and rework this one. Only one valve seat was damaged so it may not be too serious of a repair job for a pro. If anyone here is a suzuki mechanic or knows one I would love to pick someones brain on this motor as I would want to make sure it is freshened up and put back together correctly.
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After unloading the motor from my truck and doing some more inspecting It looks like the cylinder wall does have some light scoring from chewing on the broke valve. the scoring my be galled aluminum which may clean off but if not I think I am going to go ahead and punch out all the cylinders to the oversize piston suzuki offers and rebuild this motor right. I have talked to a few different machine shops and the cylinder head can be repaired and I am guessing being labor alone is $400 I would end up with about $800 or so with parts needed to get it back to good condition. I am going to make a choice on who does the head first of the week and get that part of the engine back ready to bolt on.
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I'm no motorhead but that doesn't look good.....
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Oh its not good but very repairable. The key is to find out why the valve broke in the first place. I think possibly the "scaring" in the cylinder is actually aluminum which can be cleaned off and a light hone will have the cylinder in good shape. I have yet to confirm that the "scaring" is not int he cast iron sleeve but I think it is as you can see cross hatch under the "scaring" still. I am hoping it is just some galled aluminum on the cylinder wall. Whatever the case, I will expect to have less than $4000 in the motor and the good thing is I will know exactly what I have when buying used you can not be so sure.
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I pulled the console and fuel tank today. I think this hull is going to be in need of a rebuild right now. I am putting up a 18x30 temporary shelter over the boat then I am going to start cutting the floor and transom out. No point in trying to patch it up just to have to totally tear it back down later. The fuel tank is massive. I didn't recall that these boats had 80 gallon tanks but I guess they did. There is some corrosion where the straps were but I think it will be fine if I clean them and treat those areas with someone to keep the corrosion from continuing. I may even cut the tank down to about 60 gallons so it inst almost 8ft long anymore.
I should have a good used head and piston/rod on the big brown truck today. I am going to lightly hone the cylinder and double check my specs which are right now are well within suzuki's allowable range. I honestly have about 2 thousands to play with so even a good through hone job should still keep me well within the specs. I will update on this as this portion of the project progresses as well.
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With the onset of a full on rebuild I have a question about outboard brackets. First off being a complete transom rebuild is in order I was thinking about just building the transom bracket as part of the hull and tying into the stringer system. Would there be any reason to not run a transom bracket other than possible needing the boat as compact as possible? Would a correctly built in bracket devalue the boat or not really effect it at all? I think having an incorporated transom bracket would not only look nice but also be stronger and even more durable over time with the lack of possible entrapment of water between hardware and the bracket itself. My reasoning is if I am going to rebuild the transom I might as well rebuild it with the bracket incorporated into it and just be sure to tie the whole system into the stringer system. Honestly unless there is some reason this is a horrible idea I am going to go about it this route. Please give me your feedback... It will be a few weeks before I start hacking on things to get the floor and transom out so I am giving you plenty of time to talk me out of it. :lolG:
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A well designed and constructed integral bracket should not be a problem in terms of the value and function of the boat. It's probably best to put value aside. Rebuilds rarely sell for what we spend building them. Just build what you want, and will be happy with into the foreseeable future. Only downsides I see are: your design construction and engineering need to be up to the task, and your trading time for money.
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Design and engineering are my favorite things and this bracket will be easy breezy compared to previous projects. Of course something of this nature that is not ultra weight sensitive I would tend to way over engineer/build. I was going to build an aluminum bracket before I discoverer that the transom does have some rot even though it seems extremely solid. I think now with a complete rebuild in order I will build a nice mold for the bracket and kill two birds with one stone and honestly have a better outcome in the long run. I have not found any integrated brackets on these boats and i figured mostly because a lot of people go with this way over priced prota brackets. Anyone have any links to building an integrated bracket?
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I think there are a couple of Bertrams over on Bateau2 and a Seacract stretch on The Hull Truth. There’s at least one on this site, a 222 CCP,I think. I don’t think that one was finished though.
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I definitely don't think it's a horrible idea. I thought about doing it myself but ended up changing my mind because; first, there is a lot more to it on the engineering and structural side than I originally thought and I honestly just don't have that expertise. Second, I had already sealed up the transom before I thought about doing it and didn't want to cut it back open to tie it all together. And third, I knew that by the time I purchased enough extra glass, epoxy, and core that I would need to overbuild it enough to be comfortable with it, I would have almost as much into it as a comparably built bracket.
All that being said. If things were just a little different, I would be crazy enough to do it.
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I agree, if i did not have all the materials at my disposal then I may would go a different route as well. I have a butt pile of coosa in various thickness and density as well as a case of nidacore and a whole roll of 1780 along with all the different things to make faring putty and all of that. I have 7 gallons of epoxy but I need to check to make sure it is still good as I have had it almost 5 years. I contact the company last year and they said it would be fine as long as it didn't freeze which it hasn't. I am still going to test a few batches to make sure because non curing epoxy is a dang mess to deal with.. I am just exciting I can use up some of these materials on something as my boat projects have changed drastically over the years and I never got around to the actual build part which I am for sure going to make happen on this 222.
I am also with you on cutting open an already finished transom, I doubt I would do that either but being I am going to be starting from the beginning I might as well build it like i want to.
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Here's two.
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9164.75
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12744.msg128871#msg128871
Good Luck. :thumright:
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Well, I bought a fuel tank that cost me more than what I have in the actual boat itself. The aluminum tank was in decent shape but it did have some corrosion where the straps were. I figured I would not use the coffin box and lid and do like others are doing and install a permanent moeller tank. I came across the 70 gallon tank which has dimensions that look like they will be just about perfect for the 222. I sure hope removing the coffin box and raising the floor 2" gives me enough room which I think it will. I sure hope this is a well spent $500 on this tank. I was concerned about the pickup location but it seems that it has two locations one at the front and one at the rear or at least the bungs to swap out where the pickup tub is located.
Aside from the fuel tank purchase I ordered over $200 in sand paper and other consumables and I will be testing out my epoxy soon to see if it is still good after sitting in my office for over 5 years now. I talked to the company a few years back and they said as long as it didn't freeze the epoxy will be just fine. I sure hope it is as I have 7 gallons of it on hand at the moment. I am still working on a temp. shelter before I start cutting things up but when the cutting starts I hope to make quick work of it.
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I saw a restored 222 for sale that had this anchor hatch, I sure would like to find something like that to cut out of another boat and graft into my top cap. Surely they did not fabricate that whole setup or maybe some of the older 222 boats had these already?
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Give Mshugg's thread a look here:
https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13659.225
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It’s not too difficult to make a drop in anchor hanger. I made a melamine mold and used scrap glass. If I were doing it again, I would have made the hatch rim as part of the mold. It would have saved some finish time.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Mold.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15260&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Molded.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15261&title=anchor-locker-mold&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Anchor_Locker_Liner_Trimmed_2.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15322&title=anchor-locker-trimmed&cat=500)
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Thanks for the encouragement on the anchor locker build. The plug looks ultra simple for sure but getting glass to conform to those tight corners looks a bit daunting. I may have to get my hands on something other than 1708 for such areas of this project or do you think it would conform to the mold well? I agree, I will for sure make the hatch rim on the mold which would surely cut out a lot of finish work.
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I used 12 oz biax, no mat. And a layer of 1.5 oz csm for the inside layer. Vinylester resin, so the binder on the mat dissolved.
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Well, Here I go again. Changing plans or projects really. I found an early model Young 20 hull for sale which I am buying. The young is more my style boat and with the time and money about to be invested I might as well build exactly what suites me right? I am going to put this 222 up for sale. It now sites on a extremely nice aluminum dual axle trailer and I will include the new 70 gallon fuel tank which I just purchased for the project. With the trailer and fuel tank I will be needing to get $3500. The trailer is a 2011 EZ loader which has hydraulic disk brakes and the trailer is overall extremely nice. The trailer bunks have been adjusted sense this pictures to lower the boat a bit more so now it sits just about perfect. Try to ignore the hurricane deck boat in the background.
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Well, the deal feel through on the Young 20 I wanted to get due to lack of proper paper work and then I was working a deal on a Paramount 21 which also fell through. I am going to take both of those failed deals and consider maybe I just need to build this Aquasport. :mrgreen: I had a ton of interest in buying it but I think with everyone being from South FL it hindered anyone from coming to take a look at it which I am kind of glad of now.. So I have to get some concrete poured for the Shop addition I added (just for this boat project) and then I can park the boat under my shelter and get to work.
On another note, I have the Suzuki DF175 ready to put back together. I am torn on if I should go ahead and re-ring hone the engine cylinders while I have it torn down so I will make that choice soon so I can get this motor put back together. I tell you what, Suzuki is proud of their gasket kit for this motor..