New to Me 1979 20 CCP

[theFunsmith]

 Inspirational. Keep it up.

[wingtime]

Looking fantastic.  That thing is gonna be solid as a rock.

[RickK]

Very nice work 
How did the Methacrylate work?  Can you clean the gun? Do they give you a few nozzles?

[mshugg]

Very nice work 
How did the Methacrylate work?  Can you clean the gun? Do they give you a few nozzles?

The methacrylate was great.. easy to apply.  I was concerned that it would be difficult to squease it through the mixing tip, but it was easy.  The hatch rim is rock solid.  I plan to bond the hull/deck joint tomorrow.  No need to clean the gun.  It works like a caulking gun, only with two plungers.  The nozzles are easily replaceable.  No they don't give you any, but they're only about a buck each.  I bought spares.  The tubes have a threaded collar and a plug. As long as you don't mix things up , you can remove the nozzle, and reseal to use the tube.

[mshugg]

With the lip in and rock solid, I dropped in the anchor hanger, and did a first fit of the hatch for the anchor locker.  I'll leave the hanger loose until rigging is complete, then I'll probably just use 3M UV 4000 to bond it in.  That way, I could remove it, if necessary, in the future.

[RickK]

Very nice!

[mshugg]

First the good.  I took the time to measure out the cockpit sole and compare to the dimensions of the sole with liner in place.  I gained a lot of walk space.  The maximum width with liner was 70".  The max without liner is 79".  Even measured at the aft stiffeners, the max increased to 73". The measurement at the aft edge of the console even with the fuel chase stayed the same at 69", so it looks like i gained a lot of foot room. 



Now the not so good.  I must have made an error in measurements, so I have a gap at the shoe box hull/deck seam of nearly a half inch.  The gap tapers from 0 out to just under a 1/2" then back to 0 over a distance of 10', and with my newly recored cap, screws won't pull it in.  It's my first major screwup on the rebuild.

The forward half of the hull is permanently bonded so my options are limited.

Right now, the plan is to fabricate a tapered spacer to fill the gap, and finish bonding the cap to the hull.  Then depending on how it looks, I may need to build up the hull deck seam forward in order to create a fair curve bow to stern.  Everything is symmetrical and won't affect performance, but it will cost me an extra few days, plus some additional fairing.  One small plus may be that by increasing the width of the lip, it might knock down a bit more spray.

Am I missing anything?

[dirtwheelsfl]

Might be able to cut some reliefs in the cap and pinch it back?    Which would require beveling and glassing the reliefs after of course but might be less work than filling the gap?     

[mshugg]

Would be something like this, only I'd use a strip of glass.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oDwrV8X6uCs

[dirtwheelsfl]

Should work fine. Rubrail should cover the bulge, only you will know its there 

[Cyclops69]

Did you purchase the drop in anchor hanger? If so where did you get it?

[mshugg]

I made a mold out of Melamine covered particle board and glassed over it.

[mshugg]

Been chipping away at the CCP.  I added gussets forward to support the the wide gunwales.  Additionally I glassed the inside of the hull deck seam and filleted and tabbed in the forward and aft bulkheads.  The work took a while. Plus it was all the fun of doing glasswork upside down in tight spaces.  Yay, another few things checked off.

[RickK]

Any progress is good progress!! Looks stout.

[mshugg]

The saga of the hull/deck seam is in it's final chapter.  You may recall that my glassed and cored top cap was so rigid that I was left with a 6' long gap that tapered from 0 to 1/2" and back to 0 on the aft sides.  Filling the gap and bonding the cap to hull was no problem, but it gave me an un-fair curve along the sheer.  I probably could have found a rub rail that would have covered the problem, but I had already purchased a semi-rigid vinyl rail with stainless insert.  I still kick myself.  Had I just taken 2 more measurements. . . . 

I used PVC board to build out the hull side of the sheer and give me a level surface to work with.







Then I epoxied 3/4" by 2 1/4" strips of PVC to build out the sheer.  This was shaped out to a fair curve from bow to stern.   Then I built up the top of the strip to mimic the cap overlap, so my rub rail would sit level.







I added filets to create smooth transitions for glass.  A 4" filet forward into the hull gives the boat a bit more flare and should knock down a little more spray.



Finally, everything is glassed over with 12 oz Biax.  The new sheer is  little clunky, but its fair from bow to stern, and the look has grown on me.