Classic AquaSport
Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes => Osprey Style Hull Rebuilds => 22-2 Rebuilds => Topic started by: Tampa Bay Mike on July 09, 2018, 03:08:08 PM
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Well, here it is. After years of wanting and waiting I am finally able to take on a rebuild. First off, thank you to all of you who have taken the time to post your rebuilds. The amount of information available here is simply amazing and I couldn't do this without you.
The hull is a 1977 22-2 and I am pretty sure that it started its life with a cabin but that was already cut out when I got her. The plan is pretty standard, remove the rest of the sole and the front deck, clean up and reinforce the hull bottom, hopefully just retab and refoam the stringers, and replace the transom. I will then make a decision on what to do with the cap. Not sure if I want to try and tie something into the front liner or just scrap that and build a whole new ring style cap from scratch.
Anyways, lots of time to plan that. Here are a couple of pictures of how she sits now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180709_144009.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17309&title=20180709-144009&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180709_143943.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17308&title=20180709-143943&cat=500)
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The only thing in the 22-2 line, in that year, that had a cabin was the Family Fisherman (FF) line and that hull was different - it has a 19 degree deadrise, while this model has 12 degree.
I'm confused. Can we get pics of the inside front area? In the lower pic it does look like it has bunks and the foot well between them.
Ok, I found a FF that was called the "Modified Vee" version that was 12 degree. So that must be the model they tried to change.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/582/68AS_Family_Fisherman_Series_broch_9_c1978.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2761&title=as-family-fisherman-series-broch-9-c1978&cat=582)
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Yeah that looks like it. Here is an inside shot. You can see where the chairs were mounted and where the walkthrough was.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180709_180144.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17312&title=20180709-180144&cat=500)
It is definitely the modified V which is mainly what I was looking for. It also looks like the sole is a little higher than normal. There is not much of a step up onto the front deck. Works for me because I planned to raise it up a little anyways to help it drain.
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The sole looks to be original or at least looking at the fuel tank coffin edges, it was replaced very well.
You would step over the door ledge and then down into the cabin - that portion was removed with the top of the boat, along with the helm area.
With what you have right now, you could get creative and leave the cuddy (nice for the missus or if you're going to charter then a place for the clients to use the potty or use it for secure storage) or remove the liner and now you have a blank easel - draw what you want. The stringers will proceed forward on either side of the footwell in the cabin.
The beauty of this boat is that you can make it anything you want. Look at some of the rebuilds from dirtwheelsFL for some ideas on creativity.
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You would step over the door ledge and then down into the cabin
That makes sense now. I thought I was missing a hatch cover.
I actually just cut that step out yesterday while trying to figure out how to remove the rest of the sole. The front of the sole curved up and was screwed to the back of the cabin so it looked like one piece. As for the rest of the cabin, it was already cut out so no fixing that up. I may end up just removing the rest of it and starting with a blank slate. I think that will make it easier when I need to tie in whatever I end up doing for a cap on the sides.
As for the stringers, does anyone know how tall they are on the non-cabin models? These are 5 1/2 inches wide at the top and 14 inches tall under the sole and they step up to 18 under the front deck.
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I got most of the sole cut out tonight. Just cut around the stringers which look pretty good. Should be able to salvage them for sure. I'll get some more pics posted tomorrow, I ran out of daylight.
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As for the stringers, does anyone know how tall they are on the non-cabin models? These are 5 1/2 inches wide at the top and 14 inches tall under the sole and they step up to 18 under the front deck.
Assuming you are measuring on the side toward the center of the boat - those measurements sound about right. I scratch built my stringers and I think that 14 is the height I had.
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I measured them up by the front. They are 9" tall and 7" wide back by the transom which is more what I was expecting. Guess I just figured they would be the same height all the way.
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The bottom of the hull rises and that means the stringers must shrink. Did you mention that the stringers in the front "step" up? Could have been for the bunks in the cabin.
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Yeah, if you zoom in on the last picture you can see where they step up 4" in that open area between the front of the sole and the back of what was the cabin. I think I'm just going to remove that liner, leave the stringers as they are, and just have a small step up on the new floor.
I've almost got it all cleaned out so I will try to get a better picture of it tonight.
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Or you could raise the rear stringers to match that height. If you do it right you can use that 4" to route wires, etc.
Here is an example idea - take a 3" plastic hollow fence post and wrap it in 1708 several layers and then after it hardens, you tab that onto the top of the stringers. You've raised the sole now, so your boat will self bail better and you also have a chase to route stuff to the rear.
I didn't come up with the idea, another member did.
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That's a good idea too. I remember reading that trick in one of the old rebuild threads and it could work great in this case. I'll keep it in mind.
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Maybe you can find a rectangular downspout?
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Floor out and 95% of the foam from the sides cleaned out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180710_203329.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17318&title=20180710-203329&cat=500)
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Now does anyone have any tips on how to get the remainder of the cabin out in one piece or should I just break out the saw again? It is only being held in by the bonding agent on the stringers but that stuff is on there good.
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180711_200805.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17323&title=20180711-200805&cat=500)
Got it. A pry bar and a little sweat and it finally gave in. Now to just get the stringer tops cleaned off the rest of the way.
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Looking good. I picked up a 7-9” angle grinder when I was about where you are now. And it has been the best money I’ve spent on tools so far. I bought a pile of coarse sanding discs and an adaptor/backing unit and it’s been my go-to heavy glass removal instrument for the entirety of the project. It made quick work of the thickened epoxy on the tops of my stringers.
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Yup, harbor freight is the place to buy one. Look for a 7" flap sanding wheel in 24 grit - that will make short work out of most anything.
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For sure on the grinder. I actually got one and a new flap disk before I bought the boat because I knew I would need it!
So tonight's progress consisted of cutting the top off of the port stringer to inspect the foam. It is 99% dry! The only damp part looks to be where the stringers step up by the front where there was a little crack. And even that looks relatively new as the cabin covered most of it. I covered it with some plastic drop cloths weighed down with bricks while I figure out what to do next.
There are a bunch of voids where they got lazy or cheap (or both) at the factory and didn't fill them up completely. Is there anything wrong with getting a few quarts of 2 part foam and filling them the rest of the way up beforeI glass them back over?
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There are a bunch of voids where they got lazy or cheap (or both) at the factory and didn't fill them up completely. Is there anything wrong with getting a few quarts of 2 part foam and filling them the rest of the way up beforeI glass them back over?
Not a thing wrong with useing foam to refill the voids in the stringers. Generally, you want to use 4 lb density foam for structural applications like inside the stringers. You can use 2 lb foam for other areas, like if you’re foaming in the cavities outside of the stringers.
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I think I would pressure wash the inside of the hull so you can get a real good look at the bond of the stringers. I agree on the foam and that you should use 4 lb.
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Well, slight change of plan. Turns out that tiny crack on the top of the stringer managed to let in a decent amount of water that was all settled in the bottom. Since I hope to keep this for the long haul I spent a good chunk of the weekend digging it all out. Better to just do it once. Tomorrow I'll swing by FGCI and pick up some 4 lb foam and fill them back up. Anyone know offhand how much I'll need? 2 gallons enough?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180715_175817.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17343&title=20180715-175817&cat=500)
I also did a little shopping. I got about half a roll of 1708 and hit up marine surplus for some coosa. They had a great price on it and not a lot left so I wanted to grab it before it was gone. Got an inch and a half sheet for the transom and 5 sheets for the floor.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180714_103248.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17342&title=20180714-103248&cat=500)
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You will be happy you did that. Keep the shape of the stringers intact though. For your stringers one 2 part gallon kit is more than enough (that's a gal of part A and gal of Part B). I still have maybe a third of a gal of each left - if you want it. May not quite be enough though.
Take a real good look at the inside of the stringers and make sure the bond to the hull is good. Some people have tabbed the inside to the hull with laid some 1708. Have you decided if you are going to use epoxy, vinylester or poly? This might be a good time to choose epoxy for it's strength, at least for this part.
Looks good though.
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Cool, that'll save me a few bucks. I will start with one and give you a shout it it's not enough. The inside of the stringers looked really good as well as the outside glass. I was planning to re-tab the outsides of them anyways just for extra piece of mind. While I was as at marine surplus I grabbed a 6" roll of 1700 for like $20. They had a pallet of it and I figured it couldn't hurt.
I'm planning to use epoxy for anything under the sole like you did. I picked up a gallon kit the other day to get started. First of many I'm sure. I was planning to do any new lams with poly and anything that gets stuck to old glass with epoxy.
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Got the stringers refoamed all the way tonight. I started with two 2 gallon kits yesterday and ended up having to get three more kits today to finish them! A few bucks I didn't plan to spend today but it will be nice to know it's done right when I button it all back up.
I have about a gallon total leftover that I will use when I tab the back foot or so back on after doing the transom.
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That's amazing - as I said, I did all mine with one kit. Wonder what the difference in the materials are.
EDIT: I looked back through my build and I never mentioned how much I used, but I did use 2 lb foam, because I didn't need the structural help that 4lb would give, on my home-made stringers. It looks like I used at least 2 kits - I was getting 4 linear feet per a 2qt mix (1 qt of A and B) in the aft and 6 ft as the stringers shrunk in height. I think I used a gallon kit per stringer plus had enough left over for the bulkheads.
If you're using 4lb then that would explain the extra needed. Sorry for the confusion and misleading you.
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Ahh, gotcha, that makes more sense. I was cautiously optimistic that I would be able to get by with less but I had a feeling it wouldn't. Oh well, done now and they are solid and I'll hopefully never have to worry about them again.
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Grind grind grind. Spent a good chunk of the last few days grinding down the stringers, hull, and sides so I can get a fresh layer of glass down to work off of. Just a few small spots where there were bubbles. Otherwise everything looks good. Got the stringers sealed back up and will hopefully get the rest done this week.
I also removed the emblem off the side. The one on the starboard side is broken so I am gonna try to make a mold of the good one and see how that goes. Had my helper with me to take care of the mixing.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180722_195212.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17385&title=20180722-195212&cat=500)
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Also, what does everyone do with the center stringer? I am sure it is wet as well so I want to get it out. Can it just be cut down and filled with foam and glassed over or does it provide any real structural support? I've seen some use pvc pipe as well. Any real pros or cons to that?
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I’m curious to see how the mold will work out, that’s a cool idea. What will the emblem be made of?
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I'm trying epoxy with a touch of silica and a handful of chopped glass strands mixed in since I had it on hand. Just poured it tonight so I will see how it turns out tomorrow. If that doesn't work out well I can get some 2 part mold plastic from the same company that got the silicone from. I'll post a picture with the finished result.
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Here are the finished emblems. I made the first one with epoxy and it turned out ok but I over poured it and had to do a lot of trimming. Ended up pouring a few more out of poly so I can gelcoat them if I decide to later on. I'm pretty happy with them overall.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180726_190206.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17411&title=20180726-190206&cat=500)
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Looks good - make a few more and stash them because they break easily. I made a couple for my 170 and the bait bucket (I don't have a baitwell) banging up against it as we idled along, broke it.
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Good idea. I'll cast up a few more while I have it all out still.
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Those came out great. I have seen replacements for sale once or twice before but it is much cooler to see this recreated using the original from your own boat.
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Thanks Chris. I'm glad I was able to get a decent copy.
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Got a little more done between the rain.
Mulch removed from the center stringer.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180729_125719.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17427&title=20180729-125719&cat=500)
Refoamed with some leftover 4lb
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180729_153157.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17428&title=20180729-153157&cat=500)
And laid a strip of 1700 over the stringer tops, an extra layer over the tabs, and the chines.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180731_184653.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17429&title=20180731-184653&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180731_200321.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17430&title=20180731-200321&cat=500)
I am also going to try the fence post trick to raise the stringer tops. Ripped two 5 inch posts in half for the sole and got 4 inch posts for the casting deck so it's got a little more of a step up.
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Looks good!
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Looking great man, stringers are next for me. What is the fence post trick? Is them as forms to put glass on top off?
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Thanks Marcel. Yeah, that's the idea. You glass them down to the stringer tops which raises the deck a little while giving you somewhere to run wires, etc without having to glass in a separate chase tube.
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I ended up with a lot of bubbles in the center stringer. I've heard people say that glass doesn't like to go around bends very well and now I know what they mean. It seemed wrapped well when I left it but it pulled away in a few spots while it dried. I don't want any issues with water getting in there so I ended up cutting the top off again and filled all the voids up with resin. Lesson learned.
Also started to look at the transom tonight. Made a few exploratory cuts and pried back a few places. The sides have a good deal of rot but a lot of it is still pretty solid. I see a lot more grinding and chipping in my future...
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This is the bend of the fence post you're talking about? Maybe they needed to be roughed up really good?
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No, it was the center stringer. I wasn't planning to add pvc there, I just wanted to keep the water out of it so I filled it with foam and wrapped a 6in piece of 1700 around it.
I am holding off on glassing the pvc down on the main stringers until I finish the transom so I can run it all the way back. In hindsight I should have done the transom first but it is nice to be able to climb in and out of the boat without a stepladder for now.
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You may want to get some 12 oz biax tape. It’s available as cloth too. Conforms much better around outside radius.
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Thanks, I'll pick some of that up the next time I'm at FGCI.
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Old transom is out! I used the skilsaw to cut it into chunks which popped out relatively easily with a small crowbar. Chipping and grinding out the rest was by far the worst part so far. I'm glad to have the heavy grinding done for now. If anyone is considering doing this during the absolute hottest part of the year I would recommend against it..
Now the fun begins. Time to start building it back up!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180807_195223.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17449&title=20180807-195223&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180810_201310.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17450&title=20180810-201310&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180812_140537.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17451&title=20180812-140537&cat=500)
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Now I have a question about the new transom lam schedule. I want to use epoxy where I can for strength but also want to gelcoat the inside and outside. I was thinking I would clamp up and wax a piece of melamine and then do two layers of 1708 and however much csm I need to fill in the cutout (going full transom) with poly or vinylester, and then once that cures glue the 1 1/2" coosa in with epoxy and then do two or three more layers of 1708 on the inside, tabbed in at 6, 8, and 12 and then a final layer of csm all with poly or vinylester. How's that sound?
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Sounds pretty good to me, but I think it may take more than 2 layers of 1708 to match the thickness of the existing transom skin. Might be a good idea to have another piece or two cut in case you need them once things are wet.
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I think I would do 3 layers of 1708 on the transom and also 3 on the inside after the core. 3 at first will beef up the transom skin.
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When I closed in my transom, I used 2 pieces of 1703 to fill in open space, then 3 more large pieces tabbed in, then 2 more pieces to level out the open area. So basically, the area to fill in for my closed transom took 7 layers to match the rest of the skin that was already there.
You can watch some of my vids to see how I did mine.
Also, dont rule out gel coat over epoxy, check out these vids:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwS4YgoGFm8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHAbyglpp3M
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Thanks for the replies. Looks like at least one more layer is in order.
And thanks for the links Marcel. I have watched some of his videos but haven't seen that one yet. Good stuff to consider.
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Mike, please read these posts and add a piece of PVC in the hull bottom - I wish I would have thought of this before I did my transom.
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Mike, please read these posts and add a piece of PVC int he hull bottom - I wish I would have thought of this before I did my transom.
For sure Rick. I think I have read pretty much every rebuild thread here over the years and that is just one of the many great tips I've picked up.
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Back to it today after taking last weekend off to go see the big mouse. Started prepping the new transom to go in. Started out by making a template out of some ripped down 2x4s. Used a brad nailer and wood glue to tack them together.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180825_134515.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17569&title=20180825-134515&cat=500)
Then cut the 1 1/2" coosa core to fit. We started with the jig saw but the blade wondered around a bit so we ended up switching over to the skilsaw for a better edge.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180825_142352.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17570&title=20180825-142352&cat=500)
Then it was just a little rounding off of the outside edge and it set in place just about perfectly. I also went back and notched out a place for the drain.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180825_144552.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17571&title=20180825-144552&cat=500)
Next I'll use the template to get the 6 sheets of 1708 all cut to the right sizes and test fit them all. I also got a sheet of melamine and some 2x4s and bolts to clamp it all together. Now as soon as it looks like I'll get a day or two without rain I will glass down the drain pipe and start laying it up. Lots of prepping and planning for this part.
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Yup, this is the exciting part - so many things to do almost all at the same time.
Set up a board across the top of the transom above the work area and clamp the layers of cloth to the board. You don't have to use a template to cut the cloth (except to add 4" everywhere for the overlaps if you need to), use the board to drop one layer in and trim to fit, then roll the second layer in and trim and finally the third layer and trim. Then roll all the layers out of the boat, lay your fillets along all the corners, let them set a bit and then mix up the first batch of resin and coat the transom/melamine and roll the first layer into the boat and roll resin on it and then roll out the bubbles. Then repeat with the 2nd and third layers. This approach is compliments of dirtwheelsFL.
PS - get a buddy to mix the resin ahead of you.
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Thanks for the tips, Rick. Since it's been raining every night I went ahead and precut the six layers of 1708 in the garage using the same template that I used to cut the Coosa. I have them all numbered and added the appropriate overlaps to each one. (Going with 4, 8 and 12) I made sure to add an extra four inches to the top of each so I have a place to clamp them as well. I just need to cut two or three more smaller pieces to fill in the cutout where the motor used to hang. I set one in place this afternoon and it fit perfectly.
I also made a checklist to use for when mother nature gives me a break since there are so many things to do in a short amount of time. The last thing I want to do is miss something and have to grind everything back out.
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I re-read my earlier post about the pipe and see I forgot to add the links :embar: - sorry - here they are
Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124
Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556
Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262
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Thanks for sharing the links again. I do have one question. If you glue a 1" OD piece of PVC into the 1" drain hole, how do you then install the new garboard drain plug since the walls of the pipe make the hole less than an inch now? Do you have to drill out the pipe from the outside so it will fit?
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No. You lay the pipe (maybe even grind an angle on the end that mates up to transom) against the transom and glue it in maybe with some thickened resin. The garboard drain plug attaches to the outside of the transom - mine didn't have anything that went inside, just the plate and the plug. I didn't think of the pipe before I did my transom but I didn't want to drill into my new wood core so dirtwheelsfl told me about this method.
You take a 1" ID piece of pvc and one 2" ID piece of pvc and center the 1" inside the 2" and fill with thickened resin and let it harden. I then used a hole saw a 1/4" larger than the OD of the 2" down to the core (so just through the fiberglass)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0978.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8690&title=cimg0978&cat=646)
Then I cut the glued pipes to the thickness of the hole (or just a little less) and then glued it into the hole (thickened resin)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0979.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8691&title=cimg0979&cat=646)
And then fill in the gap with more thickened resin. Now when you mount the garboard plate with the screws, the screws will penetrate the thickened resin between the two pipes
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0980.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8692&title=cimg0980&cat=646)
I thought the design was genius.
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Ok, that is where I was confused. All the drains I have seen had a piece that went inside about an inch. I'll have to either look for one that doesn't or investigate Dirtwheels' method. Thanks!
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Even better would be to glue the core in, then drill out just the core leaving the outer skin intact, then glue that plug in from the inside before you do the inner skin. By the time the fillets and layers of glass are built up inside it might be level with the actual hole.
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That's a good idea. I already cut a notch out of the bottom of the Coosa thinking it would be easier to put it in with the pipe in place.
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Even better. Glue it all in at once, no drilling required. Except the final hole anyway...
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Make sure you add the pipe before you lam the transom skin up. Every layer of 1708 moves the lowest point in the boat forward and you'll have at least 6 layers of cloth on there when done.
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I'm hoping to get it done this weekend. One way or another I will make sure to get a pipe in there. Thanks for all the tips!
How long does the epoxy need to cure before it's safe to get wet? The plan is to do it in the morning so it has as long as possible to dry before the afternoon storms roll through. I've got it under a tarp but water still finds its way in and I don't want it causing issues. I'm using the 1:1 laminating epoxy from FGCI.
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In this heat it won't take too long to kick off - the winter time around here when it dips in the 40s you use slow hardening and it may take a week it seems.
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New transom is in and solid as a rock. It's great to see some real progress starting to happen.
Melamine dam clamped up and ready to go.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180901_111005.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17608&title=20180901-111005&cat=500)
Two layers of 1708 to fill in the opening and three more on top of that.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180901_140125.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17609&title=20180901-140125&cat=500)
Coosa clamped in.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180901_161013.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17610&title=20180901-161013&cat=500)
And there more layers on the inside.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180902_124011.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17611&title=20180902-124011&cat=500)
A few things to note for anyone getting ready to do this. First, make a checklist! This goes quick and you don't want to forget anything. It was very helpful to have something to reference when the epoxy was mixed and time was against you. Second, you'll use more silica then you think. And third, you will rip every bit of hair off of your knee when trying to get dried epoxy off.
Other than that, it couldn't have gone smoother. I am really happy with how it turned out
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A BIG milestone complete - congrats.
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Thanks, it was nice to get some time to work on it this weekend. I feel like I actually got something done.
Today I started working on getting the stringers tied back in. I made up a quick cardboard mold to keep them the full height all the way back and cut a notch out of the sides so the knees I build will fit right in. Pics to come one it gets back together
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Don't know if you have other plans but don't forget that you may need to run some rigging from outside of the stringers into the middle and or visa vesa so making the stringersfull height may be problematic for later rigging if you haven't planned for it.
We took some strips of pvc and epoxied them inside the stringers and then ran some screws through that to hold the removed pieces. Once it kicked I removed the screws and overlaid a couple layers of 1700.
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Good call, thanks. I'll do some planning for that before I glass them back in.
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I'm not sure if you're going to make small bulkheads from the stringers to the outer hull - if you do, make sure you have ways for water to get from the front to the aft of the boat and also from the outside of the stringers to the inside where the bilge pump will be - these are "limber holes". I drilled holes through my bulkheads and at the aft I glued some PVC pipe from outside to inside - just make sure they are sealed up real well or they'll allow water to leak into the foam.
You could do the same thing to allow routing wires or hoses, etc - best to plan it out and do it before you foam.
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I do plan on adding a few bulkheads, especially around where the floor seams will be. I will make sure to allow for drainage.
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This is what I'm thinking for the knees. I took the backs of the stringers that I removed to tab in the transom and cut 12" off the inside corners. I then made up a quick mold so I could wrap them in a layer of 1708 and cut them at the 12" mark so I can fold it down making a vertical section to tab the knee to. I plan to cut the knees out of the leftover Coosa and glass it all back together as one piece, then fill it all with 4lb foam.
Any thoughts or advice before I get too much further?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180903_154358.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17622&title=20180903-154358&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180906_101355.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17623&title=20180906-101355&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180905_193018.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17624&title=20180905-193018&cat=500)
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Thats the same thing I was thinking of doing. What do you plan on doing on the inside part of the closed in transom? Are you closing in the space and putting hatches on to access? I am going to do that, and my knees will also act as a bulkhead for the areas, so I can have dry storage on either side of the bildge. They will go up straight to the level of the gunnel of the transom. Hope Im making sense, its so hard to explain...lol
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I follow you. I am planning to make some sort of cabinet back there but I'm not going to use the knees as bulkheads mainly because of how much coosa it would use. ($$) I am able to cut these out of the side of the same piece I used for the transom and still have the entire bottom left for whatever else. I sat back there for a while trying to figure out a good way to tie them into that angle and my dad took one look at it and said "just cut off the side of the stringer". Seemed like a much better and easier way to go.
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Got the top of the transom smoothed off some and tacked the knees in with thickened epoxy. Also glued in some PVC drain pipes. Next I'll build up the back stringer shell with about 5 or 6 layers of 1708 and then tab everything in with at least 3 layers all around.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180908_133632.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17630&title=20180908-133632&cat=500)
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Looks great.
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Got the braces off and tabbed them in with 3 layers of 1708 and stuck a few layers down on the stringers.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180909_172535.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17639&title=20180909-172535&cat=500)
Next I'll add the foam and then a few more layers over the top to seal them up.
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Ran into my first "oh :*:" moment of the build tonight. When I glassed in the drain pipe through the stringer, I didn't think to glass in the entire length of the pipe, I just did the ends where it came through. Well of course this meant that any water going in could leak out inside of the stringer into the foam. It also meant that any 2 part foam poured into the top of the stringer could leak into the pipe and drain out all over the bilge area!
After a lot of cursing and plugging the drain hole with my finger to keep it clear, (yes that stuff gets hot!) I was able to scrape most of it up before it fully cured. So now I get to rethink my limber holes. In hindsite, I'm actually glad it happened now so I didn't end up with a bunch of soaked foam down the road. I hope you all get a good chuckle out of this and hopefully someone will read this and not make the same mistake!
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Ran into my first "oh :*:" moment of the build tonight. When I glassed in the drain pipe through the stringer, I didn't think to glass in the entire length of the pipe, I just did the ends where it came through. Well of course this meant that any water going in could leak out inside of the stringer into the foam. It also meant that any 2 part foam poured into the top of the stringer could leak into the pipe and drain out all over the bilge area!
After a lot of cursing and plugging the drain hole with my finger to keep it clear, (yes that stuff gets hot!) I was able to scrape most of it up before it fully cured. So now I get to rethink my limber holes. In hindsite, I'm actually glad it happened now so I didn't end up with a bunch of soaked foam down the road. I hope you all get a good chuckle out of this and hopefully someone will read this and not make the same mistake!
Not sure I understand. So you just glassed in two little pieces of PVC where the holes exited the stringers? Or a single pipe that passes all the way through the stringer?
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I ripped a 16" piece of pipe in half and layed it on the hull, then notched and set the stringer on top of it. Then I only glassed it down where it touched the stringer when I glassed it all back together. I should have glued the whole length of the pipe to seal it up..
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I see. So the water can seep into the foam between the hull and pvc. Hopefully, the fix isn’t too much work.
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I'm confused too. Are you talking about the pipes that are angled forward into the center at the aft of the boat? They look like complete pipes or maybe the picture angle hides something.
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Yeah, those are the ones. They look like whole pipes in the pic but they are ripped in half to fit flush on the hull bottom. Well, at least that was the idea...
Here's a pic of the aftermath. Luckily I was able to pry most of it up after it kicked.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180910_181523.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17654&title=20180910-181523&cat=500)
I think the plan now is to feed a slightly smaller pipe through the existing drain. If that doesn't work, I'll have to grind it all flush and glass it over and then drill a new drain hole. Hopefully I can make something with without too much trouble.
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That should work. Another option that would leave you with larger limber holes, would be to use a hole saw, and carefully drill through both sides the stringer. Then sharpen the end of a piece of PVC and use it to push out the foam between. That way, you can epoxy and glass in a full diameter tube. The tube would be fraction of an inch above the bottom wouldn’t matter.
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X2 on what Michael suggests. Then use some thickened resin to glue it in all around the pipe - keep the pipe short, just wide enough to get across the stringer. You can see what I did in this pic.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0959.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8659&title=cimg0959&cat=646)
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Problem solved, and it actually wasn't too bad. I decided to just grind down the first pipe flush with the stringer and drill another hole beside it for a new one. A little thickened epoxy and a few layers of 1708 and we are back in business. Tomorrow after everything is cured up I'll double check it all and pour the rest of the foam.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180911_195552.jpg) (http://http//www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17663&title=20180911-195552&cat=500)
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Glad it was an easy fix.
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Me too. If that's the biggest snag I run across during this rebuild I will be a happy camper.
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Oh I'm sure you'll have more challenges - you passed this little test but it'll keep offering more complex tests.
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Not a lot camera worthy this weekend but I did get a few hours in. Got reacquainted with the grinder and cleaned off the mulch from around the top lip.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180915_180628.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17680&title=20180915-180628&cat=500)
Then went back and started laying a layer of 1708 along with a strip of divinycell that I ripped down from a scrap sheet.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180916_181025.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17681&title=20180916-181025&cat=500)
I've ground down a lot so I want to add a layer of glass to the entire hull but I killed the first roll and I'm running low on resin. Looks like another trip to FGCI is in order.
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Chipping away an hour or so at a time each night after work. Starting to lose light in the evenings..
Almost done glassing up the PVC that I'll use to raise the stringers. Going with four layers of 1700 plus what I'll use to tab them down. I was jumping up and down on one today with only the first two layers and it didn't flinch at all so I think I'll be good with four.
Also did a bit of shopping this week. Picked up another roll of 1708, a 6 inch and 8 inch roll of 1700, and 6 gallons of resin. Also found a 55 gallon poly tank online for a good price so i picked that up too. Figure that should keep me busy for a couple of weeks.
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What are the dimensions on the poly tank and where did you find it? Im starting to shop around for one, and I need one to fit between my stock stringers. I was going to go to Ft Pierce this weekend to that Marine Outlet store to look around, but if I can find one online for a good price maybe I'll save myself 2.5 hours of driving.
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It's 59x23x9.5 and I found it on Craigslist. I was looking for something around 30-40 gal but for the price I couldn't pass it up. It's dirty on the outside from sitting in a shop but has never been used.
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I got mine at Marine Surplus in Bradenton. At the time they had a bunch of different sizes.
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Yeah I love that place but it's hit or miss. There was a perfect size tank there a month or two ago but it was gone last weekend when I went back. Lots of 70-100+ gal in stock now if anyone needs a bigger one.
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Putting in some work when I can. I picked up a 4ft LED shop light so I can work later in the evenings now that it's getting dark earlier.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181001_204649.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17732&title=20181001-204649&cat=500)
I also made another run to Marine Surplus and picked up a new console. They had three a few weeks ago but were down to one so I grabbed it before it was gone. Found a big hatch cover for the front deck for $35 laying around that I grabbed too. They also had a stack of 3/8" foam sheets that the guy said was similar to Corecell for $75 if anyone needs some. I checked online and it looks like they normally go for $200+.
As far as work, I got the inside hull bottom the rest of the way cleaned up with the grinder and put down a layer of glass over all of it both inside and outside of the stringers. Looks much cleaner now. Also added a few more layers to the back all around the knees.
I found a little trick when wrapping 1700 around corners to keep it from lifting back up. I used some wax paper and pulled it tight to force out the bubbles and then clamped it in place. Once it's fully dried, it pretty much peels right off. Maybe not the pro way of doing it but it works pretty good..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181001_204658.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17733&title=20181001-204658&cat=500)
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The wax paper trick is a good one. Make sure you clean any wax residue really well before adding additional lams or finish. Polyethylene sheeting does the same thing, or if you want to get fancy, peel ply.
Your rebuild is coming along nicely.
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Thanks for the tips. I needed to clamp something down the other day and didn't want to glue my clamp down so I gave it a shot and was surprised how easy it peeled back off. I figured it would've had to sand it off.. I need to make another trip to FGCI soon and I'll see what they have there that would work better.
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I used cheap painters plastic sheeting (9x12 drop cloths) for a lot of stuff I didn't want to stick to. I agree with Michael, your build is coming along nicely.
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Thanks, Rick.
Quick update. I started to tab the fence posts to the stringer tops last night. I think they are going to work nicely.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181002_204941.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17741&title=20181002-204941&cat=500)
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Finished tabbing the tops on last night. Used a 6" and 10" strip down each side. I was climbing all over them this morning and hopped from one side to the other and they did not budge. Should be good!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181004_215217.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17764&title=20181004-215217&cat=500)
And yes, those are footprints on the port side. I wanted to test them out after they had dried for an hour or two and apparently they were still a little tacky. :oops2:
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Looking good Mike! Are you going to have a tower or t-top on the boat?
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A tower would be nice but probably won't be in the budget right away. I may start with a t-top at least. Either way I know I'm gonna plan for some kind of backing. The console I bought is pretty narrow so the legs may not hit the stringers if I add one.
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Just getting you thinking about it in advance - it's real hard after the fact ;-)
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Next up will be building bulkheads and rigging tubes and anything else that needs to be done before I close it all up so I started planning the deck layout the other day to get ready for it. I dropped in the melamine sheet that I used to clamp up the transom and set in the console, livewell, gas tank, a cooler, and a fan that is about the same depth as a leaning post to get a feel for it all.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181009_131000.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17796&title=20181009-131000&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181009_130945.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17795&title=20181009-130945&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181009_130935.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17794&title=20181009-130935&cat=500)
I also sketched it out once I got everything where I think it will work well. It should be to scale lengthwise (each line is approx 1 ft) but not quite side to side. I set the tank to the side on the sketch because it will be partially under the console. I'm planning to put an access hatch under there so I can get to the sending unit if needed. I'm also debating whether I should make a large semi-permanent hatch in case I ever need to remove the entire tank.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181009_201615.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17797&title=20181009-201615&cat=500)
I am thinking this layout should give me plenty of room to walk around everything and keeps the tank slightly forward of center. If anyone has any thoughts I'm open to them.
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Adding a tank hatch is a Chevy/Ford thing. I wasn't going to have one but was persuaded to add one.
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I was talking with my dad again tonight, (who always seems to have the best ideas) and I think a good compromise may be to plan out where a hatch would be and tape off those lines in the non skid. Then I don't have to worry about keeping it sealed and if I ever do need to remove it, I know exactly where to cut.
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I took good dimensions of the tank area, in case it does ever need to be cut out. With access plates over the plumbing, and sender unit, the only reason I would need to access the poly tank is a total tank failure like a rupture, which I am hoping never occurs.
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Sounds like a plan.
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Hoping to get back to it after being out of town last week. I also had a workshop set up in the backyard so I have a place to work on things outside of the boat. I'm pretty excited about that!
So now my question is, do I need to make a new coffin for the fuel tank or can I just add supports to the bottom for it to rest on? It seems like that would be the most logical next step before moving on to the bulkheads, rigging tubes and floor layout.
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If you want to contain any fuel leaks, then a coffin would make sense, otherwise do what you want. I split 3" PVC in half, kinda, and rested my tank on three of the halves and put bulkheads fore and aft.
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Ok cool. Containing leaks was about the only consensus I could find while searching. I'll look into the PVC pipe as well. Cheaper than buying a sheet of PVC board. Thanks!
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Not being able to work on the boat for the past few weeks got me a little antcy, and I wanted to do something to give me a sense of accomplishment so I started cutting out the floor panels. I also wanted to get an idea of how much scrap Coosa I will have for bulkheads, etc so it worked out.
I thought about it for a bit and decided a good way to get accurate measurements would be to tape a sharpie to a straight 2x4, lay it across the stringers and then trace a line around the inside of the hull.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181026_141532.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17840&title=20181026-141532&cat=500)
I then marked it every 6 inches which I could use to get a set of measurements that would be easy to translate to a board in the shop.
I got the first one cut tonight and it laid right down in place with only a tiny bit of trimming with the Dremel.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181026_190835.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17841&title=20181026-190835&cat=500)
Hopefully I can get the rest cut and put a layer of glass on them this weekend. That raw Coosa is some itchy stuff!
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mike,
What’s the deal with that center stringer/keel? Mines rotted out and not sure if it’s worth cutting it out completely or glassing it back over with new core. I also have 4” wide x 1-2” plywood running down both sides of it glassed in. Don’t want to add extra weight and spend my time doing something that equates to nothing structural or needed. Let me know
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Hey Perchman. I just cut the top of it off while I was doing the other stringers and dug the wood out. It was pretty much completely rotted out so it only took a few mins. I've seen where some people just remove it completely but I didn't feel like grinding it out so I just refilled it with some 4 lb foam and glassed it back over.
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Got all the floor panels cut to size and cleaned up with the sander over the weekend. I found them at marine surplus for a great price but most of them had some remnants of paper and mat stuck to them that needed to be taken care of. (You can see it in the last picture) A little bit of dust later and they are all good as new.
I started glassing them up Sunday night and they are turning out nicely. I was thinking about doing one layer of 1708 on the bottom and one on the top for now and then adding another layer across all of them once they are in the boat. Thoughts?
I'm also loving the new workshop I had set up. It's so nice to have a dedicated place to work that you can just walk away from at night without having to lug everything back inside.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181029_204722.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17846&title=20181029-204722&cat=500)
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You sound like you’re on track with 1 layer on the bottom and an eventual 2 layers on top. That’s what I did on mine and it’s solid. The only downside to applying the final layer as a separate step is extra sanding between applications.
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True, I didn't consider that. Looks like I'll have a little more sanding in my future. What's a few more hours at this point, right?
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Have you tried Peel Ply? The stuff is AWESOME and leaves very little if any sanding needed between layers. I cant remember if you are using epoxy or another type of resin?
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No, I never thought about using it. How does it work?
I'm using poly for these and all the new laminates and epoxy for pretty much everything below the deck and anywhere that new things are stuck to old.
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It's usually used in vacuum bagging, but people use it without a vacuum as well. You lay it on top of your applied glass resin. Smooth it out with a roller let it dry and then you literally peel it off. What's left is a textured finish as opposed to a slick one. It also takes up that waxy coatng that you need to take off with epoxy. Here's a vid. It's pretty cheap compared to having to sand all the time.
https://youtu.be/y3FsxsISYIQ
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Cool. I'll check it out, thanks.
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I have been using “ripstop” from Joeann fabrics. $8 a yard, works the same and way cheaper. Almost free for you! Cheers T
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Not sure what the difference is between the blue and the white but it looks like I can get it for $4.61 a yard down here. I'll probably grab a few yards to try it out.
https://www.fgci.com/item/130501/Peel-Ply-White-60-100yd-Rl/
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Nice price! About the same with shipping as the Joeann fabrics price for me up in the North. I also noticed I get less pin holes when I use the fabric. Probably still a good idea to hit it with a light layer of resin anyways after you peel the fabric just incase.
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So, I know it's only temporary while I grab a few more measurements, but man does it feel nice to stand on a floor!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181107_175650.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17854&title=20181107-175650&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181107_175710.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17855&title=20181107-175710&cat=500)
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It certainly feels good startingt to see what the final shape will look like. It helps you plan the next steps out well too. Most rewarding day I’ve had so far on my build was sticking the deck down and walking on it. Sure made the sides feel shorter though.
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Mike,
Are you planning to put the liner back in or are you reinforcing the sides with a few layers of glass? Thinking about eliminating my liner, just not sure if if provides any structural / support value. From the looks of it, I can't see why I would keep it. thanks
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Depending on the liner, it may only cover the unfinished hull sides and give you a shiny surface or it may be a support mechanism for the cap (like it is on my 170). If you're using just a cap then you'll need to figure out a way to support it - could be part of the fuel fill hose cover or fishing rod holders, etc.
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Mike,
Are you planning to put the liner back in or are you reinforcing the sides with a few layers of glass? Thinking about eliminating my liner, just not sure if if provides any structural / support value. From the looks of it, I can't see why I would keep it. thanks
This hull started life as a family fisherman with a cabin so I don't have a liner to put back in. I'm not a big fan of how they take up room inside so that's fine with me.
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So for the last week or so I have been tinkering around with different odds and ends that need to get done before I can glue the floor down. Mainly planning out the bulkheads and other deck support peices. Nothing really photo worthy.
I also starting planning out where all the hatches will go. Since the plan is to have flush mounted hatches, I decided to try my hand at mold making so I can fabricate up some gutters. I used the same design that Shine did on his flatback rebuild from a few years back. A big thank you to him for posing all of it. It has been a great resource so far.
Mold glued up with a layer of epoxy over it all.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181112_160238.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17866&title=20181112-160238&cat=500)
Waxed and sprayed with PVA and then laid down two layers of 2oz mat and 2 layers of 1700.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181114_190833.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17867&title=20181114-190833&cat=500)
First one pulled off and ready to be trimmed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181114_203821.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17868&title=20181114-203821&cat=500)
I'm actually pretty happy with it for my first try. Now I just need to do it about a dozen more times!
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Slick! :great02:
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Very nice. In my mind the big thing is to give the hatch gutters a way to drain - I wish I had out more thought into mine.
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Nice! So many of Shines pictures will not show up for me, the early ones especially, not sure why.
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The original rebuild is over on Bateau2.com https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294
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This is the page I have bookmarked for his rebuild. I've referred to it several times already and I'm sure this won't be the last idea I borrow from him.
https://boatbuildercentral.wordpress.com/2015/10/29/an-in-depth-rebuild-of-a-classic-aquasport-22-flatback/
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Oh I didn't know that was the same dude. I read that post once many years ago and when I started thinking about getting it flatback. Awesome!
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Got a few hours in this weekend. Finished marking out everything I needed to while I had the floor in the boat and cut out the bulkheads.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181118_125459.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17905&title=20181118-125459&cat=500)
Then I pulled the panels back out, cleaned up the edges with the router, and set them all back in the shop so I can get ready to cut out the hatches and such.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181118_203056.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17906&title=20181118-203056&cat=500)
It looks like the layout I went with is going to work really well. Everything is kinda falling into place just right.
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Looking good! Man that is a huge livewell.
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Looking good! Man that is a huge livewell.
It must be the camera angle. It's actually only about 21 gallons. That's why I'm comfortable putting it so far back.
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Looking good, I was debating on the bait death row on transom or leaning post. Id like around 40g, so I'll go with a leaning post/well combo. Question, how have you decided to run your rigging tubes? That console looks very narrow, and Im imagining the tank will be underneath it? Im having difficulty planning on the best way to run my tubes.
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I still trying to figure out how he's going to secure that helm seat in the pic :57: :93:
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I still trying to figure out how he's going to secure that helm seat in the pic :57: :93:
How about a giant spring?
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Question, how have you decided to run your rigging tubes? That console looks very narrow, and Im imagining the tank will be underneath it? Im having difficulty planning on the best way to run my tubes.
I was planning the normal route of 3-4" pvc glassed to the inside of the stringers. I was also planning a small hatch inside the console to access the sending unit if need be, so I'll have to be pretty precise with where the tubes come up.
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I still trying to figure out how he's going to secure that helm seat in the pic :57: :93:
I can stick anything down with enough epoxy! :93:
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Curious, what do you fish for? One thing’s sure: you’ll have plenty of space.
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Curious, what do you fish for? One thing’s sure: you’ll have plenty of space.
The usual inshore stuff, snook reds and trout in the bays, and tarpon along the beaches, around the skyway and egmont. Plus I do a lot more sandbar hopping now with the family so space for all their stuff is important.
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Slowly but surely. Got the bulkheads glassed with a layer of 1708 on each side, stuck in place with some thickened epoxy and then taped down with 1700. I also glassed up a scrap piece of coosa and ripped it into 1" strips that I will glue to the top to use as cleats for the deck seams to rest on. I also ripped down a 3" piece of PVC that I epoxied down to set the tank on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181125_165621.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17908&title=20181125-165621&cat=500)
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Looking good & solid.
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Thanks!
I finished laying up the last of the gutters I should need for the hatches. I've been able to knock out one, maybe two a day when I get a chance to get out there. I have about 25 linear ft now. Just need to clean up the last three.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181128_205939.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17923&title=20181128-205939&cat=500)
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Deck cleats are all glued in place on the bulkheads and I made a few blocks out of some scrap coosa to wedge the tank into place. I picked up some of those tank tie down straps as well so that thing shouldn't go anywhere.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181208_193215.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17938&title=20181208-193215&cat=500)
I also tossed the floor back in to do a final dry fit and level. Even just sitting there loose it feels super solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181209_094636.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17939&title=20181209-094636&cat=500)
I think I am going to glue and glass it all up into the two big pieces instead of five before the final install just to make sure all the seams are perfectly aligned, etc. Still a lot to do before I get to that though..
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nice progress. I glassed mine on the garage floor - make sure you let it sit flat for a couple days to cure before you flip it to do the other side. I did 2 layers of 1708 on top and one on the bottom.
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Thanks for the tip, Rick. I'll make sure to plan for a few extra days.
Any tips on bonding the seams? Do I just need some thickened epoxy or should I add in some biscuits to make sure it's strong?
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Looking great!
Are you going to foam fill the square spacers supporting the casting deck?
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Thanks! And I wasn't planning to. I know how water has a tendancy to get into anything so I want to make sure it can get out as well. They are PVC fence posts wrapped in 4 layers of 1700 and then another two layers up the side to tape them down. They are crazy strong. I propped one up on a brick and jumped on it a few times and it didn't budge.
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Thanks for the tip, Rick. I'll make sure to plan for a few extra days.
Any tips on bonding the seams? Do I just need some thickened epoxy or should I add in some biscuits to make sure it's strong?
I think the main thing is to have a flat surface.
In the pic below you can see that the bottom of the deck is already lam'd. I used poly on the top of the deck and epoxy on the bottom (epoxy on all things below deck).
If I remember correctly I didn't tape the top seams (I would need to get my rebuild thread), just lam'd the 1708 and layed cheap painters plastic dropcloth on top of the seams and some cinder blocks just to keep it flat at the seams.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0868.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8108&title=cimg0868&cat=646)
Finished
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/646/CIMG0870.JPG) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=8110&title=cimg0870&cat=646)
BTW my wife was really happy with me using her side of the garage for this :hee20hee20hee:
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Hmm, I already have a layer of 1708 on the top and bottom of each. The original plan was to add a second layer to the top of the whole thing once it's in the boat and glued down. I may have messed up the best bet of glassing it all together by doing that.. Guess I'll just have to figure it out when I get to that point.
And btw, I used poly for both sides and planned to use epoxy to bond it down.
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Managed to get a little work in around Christmas. I started filling and fairing the holes in the transom. I made the mistake of not mixing the fairing putty well enough and parts of it were still soft a few days later when I went to sand it. (That stuff is stiff when it's cold out.) I decided to just grind it all off and start over to be on the safe side. Looking back I'm glad I did because I found a nice void behind a gel coat blister that I was able to open up and fix. You can see it on the bottom left. I filled it with thickened epoxy and 8 layers of 1708 to build it back up. I'll try my hand at fairing again soon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181222_162410.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17965&title=20181222-162410&cat=500)
I also made a little progress on the floor hatches. I got them cut out and started to dry fit the gutters. I have the week off so hopefully I can get them glued down and cleaned up in the next day or so.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181226_175649.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17966&title=20181226-175649&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181226_182549.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17967&title=20181226-182549&cat=500)
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Those hatch gutters are looking good. You may want to try storing your fairing mix inside. That way it will be warmer when you mix it, and it will have a head start on curing. I do the same with my epoxy when the nighttime temps start getting lower.
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Thanks, and I'll give that a try next time it cools down. Looks like we have some good weather for glass work on tap.
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Got the gutters glassed down today and they are nice and stiff. :thumleft: Next I need to figure out a drain for them. I also drilled the holes in the bulkheads for the rigging tube and skimmed on a layer of fairing compound on the transom. I mixed it up with an old spade bit so we should be good this time around. I'll give it a few days to fully cure before I sand it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181228_102046.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17970&title=20181228-102046&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181228_133425.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17968&title=20181228-133425&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181228_170348.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17969&title=20181228-170348&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20181228_134336.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17971&title=20181228-134336&cat=500)
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My work is no where near as clean mate. very impressive and quality work
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Looks good Mike.
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Picked up a late Christmas present the other day. Got a 01 200hp Suzuki with only 707 hours. Came with all the wiring, controls, gauges, and everything else it needs. It's not exactly what I was looking for but I just couldn't pass it up.
If I decide the run it, I may reconsider the livewell in the transom since it's a bit heavier than what I was originally planning for. I got it up on a stand in the shop for now so I will have my mechanic check it out in the next few weeks and make a decision.
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That's really exciting! How much more does that weigh than the zuke 175?
I got a livewell leaning post for that reason.
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I actually have no idea. It is a V6 so I figured it would weigh more than the 4 cylinder 150 Yamaha that I have been thinking about getting but it may not. I've been trying to find some more info on it but it's hard to come by. I was mistaken though that it's not an 01, the prefix on the tag said 20001 so at first glance I thought it was. It is a little older but that's ok with me. It is super clean for its age and the price was right. (Free ;-))
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You lucky dog! That's awesome.
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Your progress is looking great! Getting a motor anywhere near that price would be a blessing. Can't wait to see it rigged. Keep it up
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If you end up wanting to sell it let me know, I heard there's a guy down in Fort Myers looking for a motor with a torn apart 22-2 :a0003:
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Any updates Mike? Been following your rebuild like a crazy ex stalker as I appreciate your craftsmanship and documentation along the way.
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Any updates Mike? Been following your rebuild like a crazy ex stalker as I appreciate your craftsmanship and documentation along the way.
Umm, thanks I guess haha. Not too much progress in the last week or so. I picked up some thru hull fittings and hose so I can plumb the gutters. I also got some foam board and some 9 oz cloth to make some liners for inside the hatches. I figure if I'm going this far I may as well make it somewhat pretty when you open them vs just looking at the hull bottom. I started glassing them up this week and hope to have them cut out and formed up this weekend.
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Started on the hatch boxes over the weekend. They are turning out pretty nice. Will be better than looking at the hull when you open them up for sure. Just need to swing by the hardware store and pick up one of those locking angle finder tools so I can finish the end pieces. I had "borrowed" my dad's for a while but he saw it in the shop and took it back a few weeks ago. Trying to get all those angles just right is a PITA without the right tool..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190114_110352.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18003&title=20190114-110352&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190113_141119.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18002&title=20190113-141119&cat=500)
I also laid up the last few gutters I will need for the front casting deck hatch and started measuring the foam to make the box for that one. I'm going to go with one big hatch vs the normal three, plus a small anchor locker.
Question I have now is, what does everyone use for the deck drains and scuppers? I looked at a few different thru hulls but I haven't seen exactly what I'm looking for. Since I raised the floor, I would like to be able to go right out the back horizontally, but to do that it's almost like I would need a custom piece with a screen on the deck side and a scupper on the outside. It seems that the most common approach is to get a deck drain and also a transom thru hull and connect them with a hose but since I planned to put the drains close to the transom it seems like that may be a little tight. Does that make sense?
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If I were at the point where you're at now, I would use TH marines all purpose drain plugs. I'd try to seat them in the gutter of the hatch and run the hose either to the back of the boat into the bilge area or try to run the hose out of the boat above the waterline. I'd also use these plugs for the inside of the hatches and run them the same way.
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NADA Guides (www.nadaguides.com) will give you the dry weight plus value of pretty much any outboard on the market if you are still looking for that info. Cheers T
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Thanks for the info on the drains and engine values. I'll check those out.
This weekend I got back at it a little bit. Managed to finish the side hatch boxes and glassed up the front one. It is big enough to get inside of so I doubled up the foam on the bottom and have three layers of glass on it since I know my kids and they are bound to get in it...
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190121_183002.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18007&title=20190121-183002&cat=500)
I also got a wild hair up my ass and decided that I wanted to try making a leaning post. If it works out like I'm hoping I will inset my livewell into the back of it instead of putting it in the transom. I had a bunch of 2x6 decking planks laying around so I screwed up a quick frame and cut some thin MDF panels to go inside. Now I need to get something to round off all the corners (modeling clay?) and I can start laying it up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190121_183011.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18008&title=20190121-183011&cat=500)
This is what I'm going for. If anyone has any tips on the best way to round off the top part I'm open for suggestions on that too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/Screenshot_20190114-201414_Google.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18009&title=screenshot-20190114-201414-google&cat=500)
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For the curve, you can buy laminate sheets at a home improvement store. They’re similar to the melamine surface you’re using, but without the partial board. They take a bend pretty well.
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For the curve, you can buy laminate sheets at a home improvement store. They’re similar to the melamine surface you’re using, but without the partial board. They take a bend pretty well.
Ok cool, I'll check that out. I bought the 1/8" MDF hoping I could bend it enough but it just won't make it before it starts to crack.
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I managed to get the rest of the mold finished up the other night and got it laid up last night.
Rolled some gel first
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190123_174138.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18010&title=20190123-174138&cat=500)
Glass cut to fit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190123_181718.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18011&title=20190123-181718&cat=500)
2 layers of 1.5oz CSM and a layer of 1708
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190123_205727.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18012&title=20190123-205727&cat=500)
Popped out of the mold today.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190124_181656.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18014&title=20190124-181656&cat=500)
It's not the prettiest thing in the world by far but I can work with it. I made a few mistakes and learned a few lessons just like everything else so far in this build, mainly not letting the gelcoat fully cure which caused some bleed through and dimpling that I'll need to fill. The way I look at it I would have spent almost as much time trying to perfect the mold as I will cleaning it up. I think I am also going to add some core to the longer parts to keep the flexing to a minimum. In any case, one more thing almost checked off the list and I am ahead a few hundred more bucks.
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I didn't get a ton done this weekend but I did what I could. I tried to start fairing some of the imperfections on the leaning post but it was just too cool for fiberglassing, today especially. It was "Florida cold" and has been raining since before I woke up this morning around 6. Yuck!
So I switched gears and made a run down to marine surplus to pick up the rest of the fuel hoses and fitting I need to get the tank finished up and grabbed a piece of starboard to make some hatches for the front of the console and leaning post. I also ordered some cockpit drains and a few more latches from Gemlux. If anyone is looking, they have some great clearance deals on their website. Hinges for about $1-2, friction hinges for $5-6 and locking compression latches for around $20. Worth checking out if you're in the market.
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Had an hour or two this evening so I finished up the first starboard hatch that will go on the front of the leaning post so I can access the livewell plumbing. It honestly turned out better than I expected being that it was the first time I have ever worked with starboard. A few small hiccups on the corners where the router caught but not bad other than that.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190129_210803.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18040&title=20190129-210803&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190129_210819.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18041&title=20190129-210819&cat=500)
Now that the practice one is done, I can work on the big one for the console. I'm planning a barn door style that will let me open just the top if I want or I can move the cooler and open the whole thing up to access wiring, etc. more easily.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190129_211518.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18042&title=20190129-211518&cat=500)
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The hatch looks awesome! Did you use the cutout piece os starboard for the hatch cover?
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The hatch looks awesome! Did you use the cutout piece os starboard for the hatch cover?
Yeah, I started with one piece cut to size, marked out a 1 1/4" frame, drilled 1/4" holes in the corners so I could drop the router bit in, and then ran the router around it using a clamped down edge guide. A plunge router would have been a little better but I don't have one. Then I ran around it all with an 1/8" roundover bit to clean it up, and cut and screwed a few strips to the back for the door stop. Then it was just a matter of installing the hinge and latch.
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I think I'll use an 1/8" bit for the next one. 1/4" is just a bit too much of a gap for my liking but it works.
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Thanks looks great! I’d love to see pictures of your templates/guide.
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It was nothing fancy. Just a $20 aluminum straight edge from home depot that I clamped down. For the outside corners I used a 3/4" socket to trace the curve and then carefully rounded it off with the sander. I didn't use any kind of template either. Just went old school with a ruler and crayola marker to draw it all out first.
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You sound like you use the same techniques that I do.
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You sound like you use the same techniques that I do.
What's that? The ones that cost half as much but take three times longer? :93:
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ahhh, it's the doing it 3 times that takes the time - I'm guilty as charged - hell, I think I painted the bottom of my boat twice with primer and then twice with epoxy to get it right, oh and had to paint the hull sides twice too.... practice makes perfect :73:
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Hatches look sweet!!
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Hatches look sweet!!
Thanks! I priced having some made and it would have been over $450. I've never been a fan of the cheap plastic ones. I should end up with just over $100 in materials to make both of these and I'll still end up for a few feet of starboard leftover for down the road.
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Thanks! I priced having some made and it would have been over $450. I've never been a fan of the cheap plastic ones. I should end up with just over $100 in materials to make both of these and I'll still end up for a few feet of starboard leftover for down the road.
That’s the trade: money- v- time.
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I finished up the hatches the other day and did a little fairing on the new leaning post. I also got the holes cut out for the hatch and the livewell.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190202_103252.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18084&title=20190202-103252&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190204_191339.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18086&title=20190204-191339&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190204_191359.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18087&title=20190204-191359&cat=500)
I thickened some gelcoat for a final fair and spread it on which is why it still looks rough. I'll bought some brushable gelcoat and will give that a try once I get it perfect.
I also epoxied in a second rigging tube for the fuel lines, etc.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190203_132029.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18085&title=20190203-132029&cat=500)
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Hatches look good. Question about four rigging tubes, did you put in any kind of limber hole or dran? I always wonder about that when I see upturned elbows on both ends. Otherwise any water that makes it into the tube needs to evaporate or stay.
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I drilled a small hole in the back of each one for just that reason. If you look closely at the bigger one, there is a T fitting towards the end as well for the bilge and livewell pumps that should let any trapped water out too.
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Mike, the hatches look great.
On the rigging tube - are you using throttle and shift cables? If so, did you try sending the cables through the rigging tube to make sure that they can make it through the bends? Mine just barely made it through and I had 45 degree adapters to help.
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Hmm, I didn't try running anything yet. I'll have to double check that before I button everything up. Unfortunately I don't have any cables to try right now, (that "great deal" on that zuke didn't pan out like I was first told - long story. :tapedshut:)
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Yeah the rigid ends on the cables are pretty long. Glad I brought that up before you get too far.
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My crazy leaning post idea is starting to come together. Got some good fairing and sanding practice in the last few evenings and brushed on a coat of gel today. (Nice to do this on something that's not the hull) I used the brushable stuff and it worked ok but not as well as I was hoping. I'm sure a better quality brush and some more practice would have helped. It's ok though because I sanded down a bit on the seams and glassed the livewell in tonight so it'll need a final coat. I also glassed in some scrap coosa on the inside where I plan to put the rod holders and a grab bar, and I capped the back half of the well and added a strip of coosa for the lid hinges. All in all I'm happy with it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190206_172224.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18089&title=20190206-172224&cat=500)
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It's looking great! Putting out some good work.
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Thanks, Joe!
So I made some great progress this weekend. I decided to shelf the side projects and work on my list of things I need to do before the floor can go down.
One of the big ones was getting the front hatch cut out and the gutters glassed in. I left them long for now since they will drain right onto the main deck. I'll get them sanded flush when it's all in place.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190209_144755.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18091&title=20190209-144755&cat=500)
Then it was on to drilling and running fuel lines, glassing the hatch boxes in place, double checking all my measurements, and about a dozen other small things before finally doing a final dry fit!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190209_171051.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18093&title=20190209-171051&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190209_171004.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18092&title=20190209-171004&cat=500)
Had a few new spots to sand down thanks to the gutters so I'm glad I did this. All that's left to do now is paint the hatch boxes and bilge, add some cleats to the hull up front for the casting deck to rest on and get one more drain hose put in place. With any luck I will get it glued down next weekend!
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I'm going to pick up some bonding putty this week. Will a gallon be enough to get the floor down?
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I mixed thickened epoxy and put it in a gal zip lock with the corner cut off. I squeezed a "S" all along the stringers and bulkheads and then set the floor in. Then I set 10 cinder blocks all over it. She ain't coming out. I don't think I used a qt?
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Good to know, thanks. FGCI sells a bonding putty for about $43 a gallon so I'll just grab one. It's hard to gauge how much stuff you'll need sometimes!
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Rick was doing a 170. I made my own, but it took almost 2 gallons for my 200. You don’t want to run out half way through blueing the deck down.
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Rick was doing a 170. I made my own, but it took almost 2 gallons for my 200. You don’t want to run out half way through blueing the deck down.
Wow, big difference. I should probably pick up a second one just to be safe. Thanks.
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I think that when using bonding putty you put enough down that, when squished down, it covers the whole surface you are bonding to. With epoxy, I squeezed out a 1" "S" and hoped that it might cover the tops but didn't care if it didn't, epoxy is strong. I guess it's a Ford Chevy thing. The cost is about the same with epoxy and chopped glass (1 gal kit vs 2 gals of bonding putty) but which is stronger....
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I think that when using bonding putty you put enough down that, when squished down, it covers the whole surface you are bonding to. With epoxy, I squeezed out a 1" "S" and hoped that it might cover the tops but didn't care if it didn't, epoxy is strong. I guess it's a Ford Chevy thing. The cost is about the same with epoxy and chopped glass (1 gal kit vs 2 gals of bonding putty) but which is stronger....
Hmm, good point, Rick. So here's a question. If I go with the poly based bonding putty, is there any reason why I couldn't, or shouldn't, use it as well on the top side along the hull/deck seam and shape it into a fillet? I'm planning to use poly up top so it would be one less transition to worry about.
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What did you use to glass the floor panels? If you used epoxy you might have a bonding issue if you use a poly based putty, maybe not.
As for tying in the floor to the hull sides, are you going to have any liner to cover up the raw glass of the hullsides? On my 170 I tied the floor into the hull sides with tabs using epoxy BUT I hid that with the liner and used poly everywhere else, including tying in the liner to the floor. On the FBs they had a thin panel of glass which laid up against the hull sides to hide the raw glass. It gave the rebuilder a way to hide the connection point.
I don't think that using bonding putty to bond floor to hullside is a solid connection.
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I used poly to glass the floor panels and I used poly to wrap the PVC stringer tops. I did use epoxy to tab the stringer tops down but it was only on the sides so I shouldn't have a bonding issue either way on the tops. As for the sides, I still haven't worked that all the way out. I have some 6 and 10 in tabbing glass and was planning to add a layer or two over the seam as well. The putty would just save me from having to mix up a separate batch to make the fillet, and I figured it may be a touch stronger as well.
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I see where you're going now - since you used poly then you'll be fine. I think you could cut down some of the tape to 3" and 6" for tabbing the floor to hullsides - less to fill and fair but plenty strong.
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Good deal. I picked up two gallons at fgci today along with a few other things and the guy there said the same thing. Now to sand the heck out of it all so it can get a good bite.
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80 grit is fine - a light scruff as long as everything is flat.
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Install floor - Check :thumleft:
Two gallons was just enough to spread it on heavy and do the seams. Went back today and ran a strip of 1700 down the sides. Feels nice and solid now too.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190217_174933.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18112&title=20190217-174933&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190217_155907.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18111&title=20190217-155907&cat=500)
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:thumleft: Looks good Mike. A huge milestone. :8):
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:1rij: This is awesome! I am jealous of your persistence! I am slacking big time! Thanks for inspiration!
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:1rij: This is awesome! I am jealous of your persistence! I am slacking big time! Thanks for inspiration!
I've been wondering about you. Get back to it, you've got the hardest parts done!
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You just passed me. Looking good.
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Finished up Operation Ugly Duckling tonight. (My loving nickname for my first attempt at part molding) A lot of fairing and sanding later and it looks like a leaning post.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190219_193852.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18120&title=20190219-193852&cat=500)
Got the starboard access door bolted on as well.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190219_201257.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18121&title=20190219-201257&cat=500)
I have a cushion on the way for it and rod holders ready to bolt in soon.
I also cut the center console and installed the large access door while I was at it. Man it was nerve wracking cutting into a brand new console! Measure five times, cut once.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190218_213119.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18119&title=20190218-213119&cat=500)
I stole this idea from someone on here I believe. I wish I could remember who so I could give them credit for the idea but I just grabbed a screenshot of it and didn't copy the link. Whoever it was, thank you.
I am pretty happy with how both of them turned out.
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Man, your not going to put a bigger door on that leaning post to use it for more storage? That thing is huge, think of all the tackle you could store in it. :mrgreen: I am torn on building a live well leaning post and just putting a live well on the transom. I will have added flotation with the bracket I am going to build and I plan on moving my fuel tank as far forward as possible so a transom mount live well may be just fine. I am still in the planning stages for the leaning post and console so who knows how many times I will change my mind. I guess it depends on if I can find a good deal on an aluminum leaning post or not. :lolG:
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I may add some tilt out tackle trays to the sides. I haven't decided if I want to try and build some with the leftover starboard or just buy them. I also want to add some grab bars to it so I need to consider the placement for those too.
I understand changing your mind. I originally planned to put the livewell in the transom but I needed access to the thru hulls and I didn't have a leaning post yet so this just made more sense.
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Still plugging away little by little. Wanted to share a small update so y'all don't think I gave up.
I've spent a lot of my spare time finishing up the leaning post. I picked up a cushion for it and cut and installed an acrylic lid. I also got a slam latch and four ss rod holders that I still need to install, and then plumb a drain for them.
My oak trees finally decided that they were done exploding pollen so I started the second layer of glass on the deck this week too. Spent a little time with some 80 grit to clean it up and then laid the glass longways since the first layer went across. I'm not sure if it makes that much of a difference but it does feel very strong now either way.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190310_165349.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18155&title=20190310-165349&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190311_194221.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18156&title=20190311-194221&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190311_211837.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18157&title=20190311-211837&cat=500)
Next up is the second layer on the casting deck and hatches and then I can trim it all up and start on the cap.
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Coming along nicely.
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Question about building the cap. The plan right now is to do something similar to what Shine did on his flatback where I build a jig of some sort to rest the core on, glass the top, remove it and glass the bottom and then glass it in place. I was planning to use either 5/8" or 3/4" honeycomb and 1700 and/or 1708.
Question is, will it keep its shape with just the glass on the top, or should I plan to put a layer of melamine on the jig first so I can lay the first layer of glass before placing the core and lay it all up at once?
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I think the latter is probably best so you can "set" the shape - definitely wet on wet. Maybe Chris (dirtwheelsfl) is around and can offer his insight.
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Yeah, the more I consider it I think the convenience of laying it all up at once will outweigh the small extra cost of the MDF for the form.
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The cutting and glassing is the easier part, keeping everything nice and fair is the tricky part.
The shape really wont be locked in until the vertical coaming is glassed on. Id also say use some type of solid core, the honeycomb will be a pain with all the open cells to deal with.
Another way is to glass in some knees every few feet, cut a bit of crown in them relative side-to-side of the boat (2-3" crown is good for a boat this size) and use that as a sort of permanent jig (you will want a few knees under there anyway). Then take a fairing batten and draw a nice shape fore-aft on those knees and cut them vertically on your marks. Then put your coaming on first, and proceed with the top.
If youre using a "floppier" core you will need more beams in your jig to keep it nice and fair. Youve obviously gotta get rid of the jig to put the coaming on if you go the temporary jig route, so make sure its well supported somehow to keep shape.
Did one on a 25 Bert recently.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4850/39969011683_cf95636a98_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23TVCF6)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/23TVCF6) by dirtwheelsfl (https://www.flickr.com/photos/138621964@N06/), on Flickr
Theres a bunch of pics here
https://www.flickr.com/gp/138621964@N06/040xTq
Any questions just ask!
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Awesome, thanks for all the info. I never would have thought about doing the coaming first but it makes sense to help keep the shape. I will check out that link for sure.
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I went through a bunch of those pictures and you do awesome work. Thanks again for sharing that.
What did you use for the core on those?
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Got the leaning post 95% done last night as well. Just need to screw the rod holders down and add a catch for the slam latch.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190314_212047.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18166&title=20190314-212047&cat=500)
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I've been doing some more research on the cap and I'm about to get started on it. I decided to go with foam over the honeycomb and I picked up four sheets yesterday to get me started. I also made some cardboard templates of the support cleats that I transferred to some scrap coosa.
Before I start cutting and gluing, should I core the hullsides or do anything else to stiffen them up a little more? I added one new layer of 1708 months ago when I did the bottom and they got almost another full layer overlapped last week when I did the second layer on the floor. They don't necessarily feel flimsy but I can flex them by hand in the middle if I try. I have no idea how much stiffness the cap will add but I also don't want to have an issue if I bump a dock, etc.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190319_203506.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18180&title=20190319-203506&cat=500)
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With as high as you raised the deck, itll be plenty stiff without coring the hullsides...
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With as high as you raised the deck, itll be plenty stiff without coring the hullsides...
Good to hear, thanks. :thumleft:
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Getting started on the cap. Got the cleats taped in along with the front and rear bulkheads. Plan to get the coaming strip done next and then the top, but first another supply run. I've about killed a roll of 1708 and am running low on resin.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190330_185804.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18207&title=20190330-185804&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190330_185816.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18208&title=20190330-185816&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190330_185825.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18209&title=20190330-185825&cat=500)
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What material and size for the bulkheads? How far apart is the rear bulkhead from the transom? The boat looks great! I hope I’ll be able to make mine look half as good. Keep it up.
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What material and size for the bulkheads? How far apart is the rear bulkhead from the transom? The boat looks great! I hope I’ll be able to make mine look half as good. Keep it up.
Thanks, Joe! I used a 5/8" 4lb foam from FGCI. On paper it's comparable to Divinycell h60 but about a quarter of the price. It's 16-18" from the transom, don't remember exactly offhand. Enough to make three small compartments and leave access to the thru hulls and engine bolts.
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Man. That thing is looking amazing. You are moving right along.
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Man. That thing is looking amazing. You are moving right along.
Thanks! It's still a while away but I am starting to see the finish line on the horizon. Trying to stay on it.
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Great progress :thumleft:
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You are putting some serious labor into that, making great progress! Thanks for inspiration!!
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Those cleats look good, and it looks like your cap will have nice lines.
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Thanks, guys! I got the transom cabinet piece and about half of the gunnels glassed and cut out over the weekend before I ran out of glass and resin. Supply run on tap for today.
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Supply run, check. I've been busy and have a nice dent put in the cap. Lots of pics coming up!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190401_115247.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18256&title=20190401-115247&cat=500)
Front and back pieces getting laid up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190403_213910.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18257&title=20190403-213910&cat=500)
I added an extra support to the back deck. It's very solid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190404_093007.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18258&title=20190404-093007&cat=500)
First dry fit.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190404_120748.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18259&title=20190404-120748&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190404_173545.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18260&title=20190404-173545&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190405_160340.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18262&title=20190405-160340&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190405_160318.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18261&title=20190405-160318&cat=500)
Starting to get the coaming strips measured up and cut.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190406_131343.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18263&title=20190406-131343&cat=500)
Cleaning up the edges to get ready for glass. I wish I had done this a month ago. It's getting hot already!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190406_142648.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18264&title=20190406-142648&cat=500)
Glassing up the strips.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190406_211009.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18266&title=20190406-211009&cat=500)
Starting to look like a boat!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190406_184250.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18265&title=20190406-184250&cat=500)
I cut a bunch of 3/8" deep slits in one piece to help it make the curve around the front.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190407_104033.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18268&title=20190407-104033&cat=500)
Ran a 1/2" roundover bit around the sides and put the first piece of tape down on the bow. I made the mistake of laying it up on a flat surface so now I have to persuade it to bend around the crown in the bow. Nothing a few bricks can't fix.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190407_113801.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18267&title=20190407-113801&cat=500)
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Next up is to get the coaming strips trimmed to shaped and glassed on and then I can get the whole thing glassed to the hull.
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Great progress Mike - nice craftsmanship too.
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Looks like a clean easy to fish layout. Gonna put a tower on her?
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Thanks guys. No tower plans as of now, I would like one but I would rather put the extra funds into a new motor instead. I have it all mapped out though in case it happens down the road.
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Another milestone reached! :cheering2:
The cap has been glassed down. Short of a little trimming along the bottom of the coaming strip it is done. I walked around on it today and it is pretty darn solid. Now I guess I get to start thinking about all the fairing that will be in my future..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190412_184023.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18284&title=20190412-184023&cat=500)
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Congrats Mike - looks GREAT!!
I forget what I read earlier, you're using a poly based resin (something compatible with gelcoat)?
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Congrats Mike - looks GREAT!!
I forget what I read earlier, you're using a poly based resin (something compatible with gelcoat)?
Yeah, poly up top and on all the new lams. Epoxy on the transom, inside hull bottom and stringers. I will need to figure out the gelcoat on the outside of the transom but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
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Check out my non-skid application for your sole -very easy and durable.
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Got a little work done in the past few days. Nothing really exciting but I wanted to post an update. I added a core to the hatch covers using some leftover foam from the cap. It already had a layer of 1708 on each side and I glued and glassed it down with another layer of 1700. The small ones were fine but the big one up front had a little flex in it when you stood in the center. They are all really solid now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190416_203729.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18287&title=20190416-203729&cat=500)
I trimmed the cap with the cutoff wheel on the grinder the other day which left something to be desired so I went back over it with the straightedge and will clean it up with the sander soon.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190417_102840.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18288&title=20190417-102840&cat=500)
While I was down there I noticed that I completely overlooked the bottom seams on the cap. Maybe they would have been okay with some thickened resin only but I didn't want to leave it to chance so upside down I went. If you've ever glassed the bottom of something then you know how much it sucks. If you haven't, well I would advise against it ...because it sucks. Oh well, lesson learned and it is done now plus it was a good excuse to not start fairing!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190417_120319.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18289&title=20190417-120319&cat=500)
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Fairing has begun! I'm learning as I go like pretty much everything else on this build so excuse the streaks across the back. This stuff kicks a lot faster than normal resin does because of all the fillers. I think about half of the first quart I mixed up ended up in the trash. Started to get the hang of it pretty quickly though.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190425_213425.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18318&title=20190425-213425&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190425_213447.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18319&title=20190425-213447&cat=500)
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Your boat is looking great, and you seem to be flying the rebuild. Well done!
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Boats really coming together nicely l!! Cap cane out sweet
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Thanks guys. Not a lot of progress this weekend, just some sanding and prep for the next coat. Did manage to get out on the other boat for a few hours yesterday afternoon which was nice.
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Fair, sand, repeat. Getting closer every day.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190504_170455.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18359&title=20190504-170455&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190504_170509.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18360&title=20190504-170509&cat=500)
So question about fairing. How smooth is smooth enough being that I am going to gelcoat the inside? Is it better to get the surface 100% and then just sand the gelcoat enough to bring out the shine, or am I wasting a bunch of time trying to get it nice first?
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You need to get the substrate kinda close = gelcoat fills a "fair" amount of blemishes/
I hope you are going to spray the gelcoat with a 50/50 mix with Duratec - that'll save you a bunch of effort trying to get a shine. I would think that most of the deck is going to be covered in nonskid minus the water runs, so that leaves the inside hull sides, gunwale sides and maybe the gunwale top (I would add places with nonskid on the gunwale top also) to be shiny. So if you you use the duratec you shouldn't have anything to shine up.
Was this your plan?
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I'll check out the Duratec. I honestly haven't thought that far ahead yet. I guess I just figured I would roll it on and shine it up, but considering how long all this sanding takes it would definitely be worth a few extra bucks to save some time.
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Get a cheap Harbor freight spray gun (I bought more expensive and they didn't work as well), learn how to take it apart to clean it quickly and you'll be fine. The Duratec is some great stuff. Use it to spray your console too.
If you're going to have water runs (stripes in the deck for water to run off via) you want to spray them but the non-skid gelcoat is rolled on (I hope you use the nonskid approach I use - it is great result.
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So I got a little sidetracked from fairing today and ended up buying a t-top. I've been eyeing it for months down at marine surplus and finally decided to just do it before it disappeared. It fits my console almost perfectly and I think it's a good size for the boat.
I will have to modify the hatch on the front and will lose the top door but I think it'll be pretty easy since I still have the fiberglass I cut out of it. I'll probably end up using it for the anchor locker hatch so it should work out fine.
I also think I may try to build a hardtop for it instead of canvas. I like that look a lot more, just not the price.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190506_184758.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18365&title=20190506-184758&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190506_184750.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18364&title=20190506-184750&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190506_184810.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18366&title=20190506-184810&cat=500)
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Looks great. Wouldn't it be easier to cut and shut the support tubing? You must know someone that's a handy welder?
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It’s easy to get side tracked from fairing. Top looks great.
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Looks great. Wouldn't it be easier to cut and shut the support tubing? You must know someone that's a handy welder?
I did talk to a fabricator and it is doable of course, but we decided that repairing the fiberglass and modifying the hatch is the better way to go. Plus I do think those supports add to the overall look and will be helpful to hold onto when I add a cooler seat in the front. Oh, and the other big factor was that my spare time is worth a lot less than his.
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Well thankfully I kept the cutout when I built the hatch originally so it was a simple fix. I cut it to size, glassed it back in from the backside, did a tiny bit of filling and fairing, and rolled some gelcoat on it. In total it only took about two hours. I will need to wet sand the gelcoat tomorrow but that should only take a few minutes. As for the starboard, it was just a matter of unscrewing the top piece and then cutting the sides down and drilling a few new holes across the top.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190507_175227.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18367&title=20190507-175227&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190507_181140.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18368&title=20190507-181140&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190507_191719.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18369&title=20190507-191719&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190507_211305.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18370&title=20190507-211305&cat=500)
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And then there is that way - looks good Mike.
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Keeping the cutout? Genius.
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Keeping the cutout? Genius.
I think I have kept every scrap of glass, coosa and foam that I have cut lol. I could probably build a small skiff at this point out of all the crap laying around the shop.
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I've been doing a lot of sanding and fairing lately. Just need to do a little more work on the hullsides and I can get ready to spray. I hosed all the dust off so I could get a good look at it and I think I'm about there.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190518_172921.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18408&title=20190518-172921&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190518_173301.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18409&title=20190518-173301&cat=500)
HF has their spray guns on sale this week and I did some reading up on Duratech so it will hopefully go smoothly.
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Yup it will go smoothly if you prepare. One thing you should make sure you understand is how to take the gun apart to clean. Its a bummer when the gelcoat hardens in the gun (don't ask how I know). So learn how to take the needle out, and then the spray tip and dunk everything into a bucket of acetone. Use the included brush to clean everything in that front portion of the gun. Buy one that has a .18 tip or maybe .20.
For the gelcoat, mix it up 50/50 with Duratec and then add the hardener, mix and spray. Only make what the spray cup can holdMake sure you spray it all out of the gun and then quickly disassemble the gun and even remove the spray cup and clean it and the pathway down into the front part of the gun. It takes longer to clean the gun than to spray the product. Maybe buy a couple guns so you can break down one and soak it while you use the other? They're cheap enough when on sale.
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I picked up two of them to start while they were only about $10. I didn't see the bigger tips though and I think the one it comes with is only 1.4 so I'll have to figure that out before I spray. I'll probably do a few test sprays first for sure - maybe on the hatch covers. I started making my next shopping list as well and think I may have my colors all figured out. I've been pricing motors and rigging the past few days too. Getting close!
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Yeah, maybe the tips were 1.8 and 2.0, been a couple years. The gelcoat will be pretty thin after mixing the Duratec in. Definitely practice on something.
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Took a break from fairing and started molding up the hardtop. Still a ways to go but I'm happy with how it's coming along.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190522_164130.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18414&title=20190522-164130&cat=500)
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What layup are you using for the top? Are you worried about weight up high?
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Looks good Mike.
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What layup are you using for the top? Are you worried about weight up high?
I'm using 5/8" foam and some CSM to start. Once I've got the shape totally locked in I will take it off and add some cloth if needed. I haven't decided that yet. As for the weight, I'm hoping to keep it around 50 pounds so it shouldn't be a concern.
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That’s a nice looking hard top.
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Got a layer of glass on each side and set it back on the frame to finish curing. I'll do a little trimming and sanding and then decide if it needs another layer or not.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190525_193037.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18472&title=20190525-193037&cat=500)
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Very nice.
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So this rebuild would probably be moving along a lot faster if I would quit adding things on. While I was between fairing coats on the top, I took a hard look at the bow where I was planning to store the anchor and realized I didn't leave myself quite enough room to get it in and out easily, so I ended up building another hatch box. I will tell ya, it is hard to make that first cut into a brand new floor.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190603_204417.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18691&title=20190603-204417&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190603_210926.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18692&title=20190603-210926&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190603_211126.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18693&title=20190603-211126&cat=500)
I think it'll end up working really well though. I kept thinking that I was wasting a lot of storage under there, and I wished that I had added just a touch more support across that big span. It wasn't bad, but I could feel a tiny bit of flex if I jumped around up there so now I can add some scrap coosa to the underside while I have it opened up again to really shore it up.
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Here's the box before I trimmed it up the rest of the way while I was test fitting everything. I used some leftover foam and a few scrap pieces of coosa for the frame on top. Then gave it all a few layers of mat and 1700. Once it's ready to go in I will just epoxy it in from the bottom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190531_144330.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18694&title=20190531-144330&cat=500)
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Pretty good sized box. Not sure if you had to assemble it in the hole or what? Is pic2 above the box in the hole?
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Yeah, pic two is the box sitting in place. I tried to make it as big as I could to maximize storage but still small enough that I could fit it in at an angle and pull it up into place. Of course it turned out about two inches too big so I had to resort to slightly more drastic measures. :shhh:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190603_213048.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18695&title=20190603-213048&cat=500)
Should be plenty easy to fix once it is all glued up and it will also give me access to hook up a drain hose.
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Lookin' good TBM. :great02:
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Your box looks good. It’s amazing how much storage can be created along the centerline of tThe we boats.
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Yeah, pic two is the box sitting in place. I tried to make it as big as I could to maximize storage but still small enough that I could fit it in at an angle and pull it up into place. Of course it turned out about two inches too big so I had to resort to slightly more drastic measures. :shhh:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190603_213048.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18695&title=20190603-213048&cat=500)
Should be plenty easy to fix once it is all glued up and it will also give me access to hook up a drain hose.
Ahhh, slight of hand shenanigans - I didn't look closely at the tank area to see the liner was propped. :hee20hee20hee:
That's a good plan now that I see it in action :thumleft:
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Ahhh, slight of hand shenanigans - I didn't look closely at the tank area to see the liner was propped. :hee20hee20hee:
That's a good plan now that I see it in action :thumleft:
That is actually the other hatch up on the casting deck, not the tank hatch. The front deck is almost 8 feet long which will be awesome for fishing and when the kids are up there. Not sure if the stringers in the family fisherman model were different from the other models but I just followed where they stepped up.
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I got the anchor locker epoxied up into place the other night and glued in a drain. I put the lid back in and hopped up and down on it and it didn't budge. I was considering installing a drain hose with a thru hull right out the side but it would be pretty close to the waterline if not below it due to the depth of the box so I may just skip it. I can always just put a plug in when I don't want water draining straight into the bilge for now and install one later if I decide to. I'm going to add an access panel to the big hatch box before I fix it to make that easy to do.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190606_094506.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18702&title=20190606-094506&cat=500)
I also started playing with gelcoat a little bit. I shot one of the hatch covers with 50/50 gel and duratech, rolled one and sprayed pva on it, and rolled one with no pva. Plan is to see which way is the easiest to work with before I move onto the deck.
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Makes perfect sense now that I see it. I don't think anything is much easier than the gel/duratech.
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I feel like I have 20 things that are all half done so I'm trying to focus in on one or two to get them knocked out. I got some duratech and gelcoat about a week ago so I'm getting the hullsides cleaned up so I can get them sprayed. I've done a few test shots on the hatch covers and I'm getting the hang of it.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190613_164315.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18744&title=20190613-164315&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190613_164357.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18745&title=20190613-164357&cat=500)
I'm also getting closer with the hardtop. I am pretty happy with how it is turning out.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190613_122351.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18742&title=20190613-122351&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190613_122405.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18743&title=20190613-122405&cat=500)
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Looking good - what is on the hard top right now?
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I rolled on a thick layer of gelcoat with about 15% duratech. I'll let it cure for a few days while I work on the hull and then give it a good sanding and touch up. Then if I have enough of the hullside color leftover I will do the underside with that. If not I'll just use white because custom color tinted gel is not cheap!
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You don't mix it yourself? I started with white gel and a couple jars of coloring and a toothpick. If I wanted blueish color I dip the toothpick into the blue color and then stir it around in the gelcoat can - mix all the gelcoat at one time. Repeat until you get the color you desire, one toothpick at a time and stir with paint stick. The color that you add is very concentrated.
If you are trying to match the original color, disregard - you need a few different color jars, like red, yellow, blue and a lot of trial time. I agree, getting it mixed to match is expensive.
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No, I found a color that I really liked and just had them mix it up. I figured this way if I ever needed more I could get it made easily with the same code. Now, had I bothered to ask how much more it was I may have gone a different route. Oh well, it's only money and it will hopefully be the only one like it.
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For the layman it's trial and error. that translates into a lot of failures and wasted product. I haven't seen a mix chart for colors on gelcoat - there must be one somewhere. Meaning 2 parts green, 4 parts yellow and one part red for this color, etc.
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Had a friend come over this morning to help out and we got the hullsides sprayed. Used a 50/50 duratech mix in the ol HF gun and it laid out pretty nicely.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190615_131438.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18747&title=20190615-131438&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190615_111118.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18746&title=20190615-111118&cat=500)
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Sweet.
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The boat looks great! How many coats of gel coat do you plan on spraying? Will you be using non-wax gel on the base coats, then wax in the final spray?
Did you have any issues with spraying outdoors?
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Thanks Capt! I used duratech which let's it fully cure without PVA or a waxed layer on top. It also thinned it down really nice for spraying. It was expensive but worth it for me.
I sprayed one layer over the whole thing and then went back over some of the thinner looking spots before it fully cured. I honestly don't think it'll need more since the gelcoat underneath was still in really good shape so this was mainly just to add color. I am probably just going to do some buffing and touch it up if needed.
I lucked out with the weather too so spraying outside was good. I have a decent sized yard and the wind really laid down yesterday and was blowing away from anything important.
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Looks great! A friend who helps work on the boat is a friend indeed.
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Happy Independence Day everyone. I hope you are all enjoying the holiday. I've been out of town on summer vacation and then had to play catchup with the real world this week. It was nice to have a morning to do a few things on the boat. Not a lot got done but it was progress nonetheless.
My original plan for the transom cabinet was to cut out three smaller hatches but I ended up finding these nice starboard ones at Marine Surplus for sixty-something bucks each and couldn't pass them up. They are wide enough to let me reach to each side and still have plenty of access to the center.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190704_130041.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18800&title=20190704-130041&cat=500)
I also cut the hole for the sending unit access and test fit that hatch. It seems like every mass produced boat has almost zero access to that stuff! It's the only plastic hatch that will be in the boat but it'll be under the console so I won't see it. I'm really not a fan of the plastic ones..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190704_144445.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18801&title=20190704-144445&cat=500)
I also have the top 95% faired and sanded and hope to get a final coat of gel sprayed on it soon. I keep trying to talk myself into building an electronics box but for now I just want it out of the shop.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190704_155103.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18802&title=20190704-155103&cat=500)
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Good score on the doors. Boat is shaping up.
I have a Birdsall Marine aluminum electronics box that I’ve decided not to use. It’s 30” wide x 17 1/2 deep and 8” high. If you want it, I’ll sell for half price, $250.
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Thank you for the offer. It's really tempting but I think I would prefer a fiberglass one over aluminum.
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Yeah, I’d go with something a bit rounder to match the lines of your hard top.
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Still chipping away. Between the kids being on summer break, trips, the heat and rain, and life it's been slow going.
I was also delayed a bit by another oversight I made. When I trimmed the coaming strip to get it straight it left the foam exposed which was a weak spot.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190712_132155.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18891&title=20190712-132155&cat=500)
I learned my lesson on glassing upside down so I took a different approach that worked out well. I used a scrap piece of foam and rounded over the edges and screwed it to some wood. Then I covered it with some plastic and wetted out a 4" strip of 1700. Then I folded the plastic back over it and pinned it down with some more wood and bricks that were laying around.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190714_192110.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18892&title=20190714-192110&cat=500)
Once it kicked I peeled off the plastic and was left with a nice U channel.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190715_095751.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18893&title=20190715-095751&cat=500)
A little epoxy and some fairing later and it blended right in. Also feels much stronger now.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190720_160228.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18894&title=20190720-160228&cat=500)
I did manage to get a few steps forward too. Got a second coat sprayed on the hullsides which I wasn't sure I needed at first but I'm glad I did. If I have enough of the teal left I may try to get a third coat on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190718_144440.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18897&title=20190718-144440&cat=500)
And I finally finished up the hardtop and got it mounted. Found an electronics box and ran some wires while I could lay it down to work on it. It's not a mold quality finish but it is hard to tell from 10 ft away. Overall I am really happy with it for being my first attempt at anything like this.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190721_191810.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18896&title=20190721-191810&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190721_191757.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18895&title=20190721-191757&cat=500)
I also got a few more odds and ends taken care of and have been picking up things I will need when I find them on sale. I have a feeling that once I can get the inside gelled and non-skidded that things are gonna start coming together quickly.
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Good innovating Mike.
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Nice work on molding the channel. The electronics box looks good with the top, and scales well too the console.
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:great02:
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Picked up a gallon of patch booster and put a few more hours on the old harbor freight spray gun today to get the inside sprayed. it laid down really nice, actually a little better than I thought it would. I have a little touch up to do and then I'll start taping it off for non skid.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190727_101901.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18907&title=20190727-101901&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190727_133450.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18908&title=20190727-133450&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190727_133525.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18910&title=20190727-133525&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190727_133515.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=18909&title=20190727-133515&cat=500)
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Looking Good Mike.
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Awesome!
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man your boat looks awesome i cant wait to get to this part of my build been raining alot i havent got a chance to get much done
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Thanks guys. And yeah, this summer has been brutal with the rain, heat and mosquitoes. Add in the kids being home from school, trips, yardwork and just life in general and it's hard to find a lot of time to work on it.
I have managed to get in a few hours here and there lately to get prepped for putting down the non skid and will hopefully get that done this weekend. I've rolled out a few small test panels and I think I've just about got it how I want it. I marked out where the console and livewell will sit along with the cleats and rod holders so now I just need the weather to hold long enough to tape everything off and do it.
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I got the hatch covers, casting deck and the floor taped off and covered with non skid. I used the medium grit pumice from fgci and mixed it into the gel with a touch of patch booster and rolled it on with a foam cabinet roller. I was going to do the roll and shake method but I was actually able to get a more consistent pattern on my test panels when mixing it. I used some 9oz solo cups and poured it back and forth between two cups a few times to really mix it up and then spread it out before it could settle. Seemed to work well. I plan to add one more coat to the whole thing to seal it all up.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190810_151819.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19025&title=20190810-151819&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190810_164914.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19026&title=20190810-164914&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190811_093705.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19027&title=20190811-093705&cat=500)
I ran out of the the first rolls of tape and had to dig around for more :57:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190811_140125.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19028&title=20190811-140125&cat=500)
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Coming along nicely Mike.
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Yet another great rebuild. Must be something in the water :ScrChin:
:great02:
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Sweet rebuild! ALL-PRO!! Really like the hull color, making me re-think my plans for gloss black.
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Your boat is looking great, and your progress is impressive.
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Thank you guys.
It has been so wet out that I have hardly had a chance to work on the boat. Everytime I have had a few hours it's been raining. Well it finally dried out enough to get back out there and I was able to get the rest of the nonskid down.
Started on the bow and worked my way back.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_095513.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19087&title=20190822-095513&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_193213.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19090&title=20190822-193213&cat=500)
Decided to get a little creative in the back and bring some of the hull color into the boat.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_183228.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19088&title=20190822-183228&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_192705.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19089&title=20190822-192705&cat=500)
I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out.
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It has been straight up nasty here in Ocala as well. coming along nicely!
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Now that's a nice touch. :thumright:
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Looks great! You make that gelcoat thing look easy.
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I really like the tarpon addition.
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Thanks all! The inside was all white so this did a great job of bringing some color in.
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So this was my view for the day. Decided to tackle sanding the bottom while I was in gelcoat mode.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190825_120426.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19122&title=20190825-120426&cat=500)
Why do people beach their boats!!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190825_121511.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19123&title=20190825-121511&cat=500)
Luckily that was the extent of the damage. The rest of the hull looks great!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190825_145340.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19124&title=20190825-145340&cat=500)
Went over the whole thing with 240 to remove all the grime and tannic stains and then cleaned up the dings with some 80 and filled them back in with thickened epoxy. Luckily nothing was very far into the glass. It was pretty much all just gelcoat damage.
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That is looking really nice! What color for the bottom?
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That is looking really nice! What color for the bottom?
Thanks! I'm gonna stick with white. My dad stopped by yesterday when I was done and asked me if I was just going to leave it since it cleaned up so nice. If I didn't have a bunch of patches all over it now I might have.
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A better hurricane forecast for the west coast meant less storm prep and more work on the boat this weekend. On a side note, I feel so bad for those in the Bahamas right now and wish them all a speedy recovery.
I got the bottom taped off and sprayed.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190831_112804.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19142&title=20190831-112804&cat=500)
Then I got started installing hardware! Since the cap is foam I really didn't want to mess around with the cleats so I overdrilled all the holes and filled them with thickened epoxy. (Ok, fine it's Marine Tex, but I was out of silica and Ace was closer than FGCI :wink2: )
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190902_131253.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19143&title=20190902-131253&cat=500)
Then I cut a scrap piece of coosa that was already glassed into strips to use as backing plates.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190902_151155.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19144&title=20190902-151155&cat=500)
Which were then all thru bolted and sealed with 5200. If these suckers pull out then I am in trouble.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190903_184654.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19146&title=20190903-184654&cat=500)
Also got the two transom doors, the door on the bow and the hatch for the fuel tank cover installed and sealed down.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190903_161830.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19145&title=20190903-161830&cat=500)
Then I started working on the hinges and latches for all five floor hatches before I ran out of daylight. Once I finish all those I will probably move on to running the drain hoses and maybe get the livewell and pumps installed and then start wiring.
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Only had a few hours this weekend but I managed to get the rest of the deck hardware installed. 95% of it is from Gemlux that I have been collecting over the past year whenever I find good prices on it. All the hatches have friction hinges and compression latches to keep the rattling down, and I through bolted all of it as well. I also added a couple rod holders to the bow to and some cup holders in the rear.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190908_163715.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19177&title=20190908-163715&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190908_163728.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19178&title=20190908-163728&cat=500)
I also found a deal on a 30" bracket that I couldn't pass up. I'm gonna put a little time into cleaning it up and making sure it is as structurally sound as it appears to be. If so it could be the deal of the year.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190906_173218.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19175&title=20190906-173218&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190906_173224.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19176&title=20190906-173224&cat=500)
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Is that a change in motor support? The boat is looking great.
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Thank Rick. I didn't have anything yet. I've been keeping my eye out for something that would work - Porta bracket, Armstrong, big jack plate, I even considered building something, but this came up for sale just down the road from me and I couldn't pass it up for the price.
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Before I do any clean up work on the bracket I want to make sure it will work so I propped it up against the transom to take some measurements and such. So, now the $2500 question. What do you guys think? I don't know the first thing about mounting a bracket, but it looks like it may have a bit too much negative angle. (If that's even the right term?)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190911_193049.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19210&title=20190911-193049&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190911_193100.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19211&title=20190911-193100&cat=500)
At 24" out theres about a 2" drop. Should it be closer to 90° off the back?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190911_193718.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19212&title=20190911-193718&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190911_192755.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19213&title=20190911-192755&cat=500)
Thanks for any advice
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You’ll need to figure out the mounting height based on where you need your engine to mount. The rule of thumb is that the engine needs to be raised 1” for every 12”” of setback. So, a 30” setback bracket will require 2 1/2” of additional height 27 1/2” above the keel for a 25” shaft. How high will you need to mount the bracket to achieve that? Will the height still leave you with enough room for engine rigging coming out of the transom?
A second factor will be trim range. There’s no question you’ll have a lot of negative trim, but will the upper trim position allow you to trim the bow up enough? probably, but I’d check to be sure.
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I'll add my :2Cents:
If the use is to include getting in and out of the boat (think diving/swimming) then speaking from past experience, I would want a full length platform. You've done a fine job with the rebuild. Spending a little more on an aluminum platform/bracket would add a nice finish to the stern. However, if it is more of a fishing hull, a jack plate would give you more versitility in where you can go (skinny water) and performance tuning.
I loved my platform/bracket on the CCP. It made ingress/egress so much easier plus it added fishing area in the stern. I also mounted the livewell on the starboard side. Granted, not the most sleek look but extremely functional.
Good luck. :thumright:
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Thanks for the input guys. mshugg, I think I'll have enough room for the rigging while still being able to access the drain plug. For now I was more concerned with the transom angle than the height so I just used that box since it was sitting there. I cut out a cardboard template and mounted it about 27" from the bottom.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190911_183102.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19218&title=20190911-183102&cat=500)
I will have to double check the trim range though.
Bob, it will probably end up being a mix of a fishing and family boat so getting in and out will be a factor. Last time I was down at marine surplus they had a stack of the molded fiberglass swim platforms that I could mount on each side for a couple hundred bucks and I also have one of those three step ladders with the bracket laying in the shop that I could use. I agree that a new full width bracket would be ideal but it would be about 10x the cost of what I would have into this when it's done. I'm not saying it is completely ruled out but it would be nice to save the cash if I can make this one work.
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It actually looks like you’ll need to mount it higher because of the downward slope of the bracket. That will put the motor deeper in the water.
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just a thought, but won't you want to run some boards parallel with the bottom of the hull extended back behind the transom, use that to set the motor cavitation plate height (as posted earlier raised 1” for every 12”” of setback). Then figure out where the bracket needs to sit to hold the motor there.
At this point the transom angle vs. bracket angle is what it is, but don't measure perpendicular off the transom to set the motor height. Sorry if I interpreted your previous post wrong maybe thats what you're already doing?
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Ok, well if I do end up using it I am definitely going to find someone who knows what they are doing to mount it for me along with the engine. The last thing I want is a dozen or so holes to fill and re-drill..
So it looks like my main concerns will be the trim range and if I am happy with the slight downward angle. I will most likely end up adding swim platforms to each side which may hide some of it and solve the boarding issue. Or it may make it look sloppy and pieced together. I think I'm going to table it for a few weeks while I finish up the rest of the boat and think on it some more. Best case I end up with a bracket that works for next to nothing, and worst case I sell it cheap and find something else.
Thanks again guys
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you've come this far, get the right bracket.
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This is a long thread so forgive me if this has been covered already.....did you rule out a porta bracket? I mean, you've got this beautiful rebuilt hull and you're gonna install that big clunky bracket w/the only benefit of set back. If so and you fish shallow water, you'll also need a jack plate w/the angle of that bracket. And with how low it sits a 25" shaft will be too long.
I'm sure you're counting the dollars by now, but if ya got the extra I'd recommend the porta which acts as set back and jack plate in one. Not to mention it will look a heck of lot cleaner.
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My first choice would be a porta bracket but you are absolutely right, the dollar signs are starting to add up and I'm still looking at buying a motor and trailer. Adding another 3k on top of that is not the easiest pill to swallow.
If it fit a little better I would probably go with it but I just can't see myself being happy with it the way it is once everything is finally done.
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Erikhimmel new member, see you staring what looks like a great build. Look at my pics I just up loaded for some ideas.
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I don't see the images you uploaded?
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My first choice would be a porta bracket but you are absolutely right, the dollar signs are starting to add up and I'm still looking at buying a motor and trailer. Adding another 3k on top of that is not the easiest pill to swallow.
If it fit a little better I would probably go with it but I just can't see myself being happy with it the way it is once everything is finally done.
Unless you only run deep, I really think you'll need a jack plate if installing a transom bracket. The plate will run 2k, plus the cost of the bracket, plus your labor hours for installing the combo. Or a 3k porta bracket, make 1 installation, and get same benefits as the jack plate/transom bracket combo, with the bonus benefit of looking a heck of a lot cleaner.
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Float bracket you wont be sorry.
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Well I have hardly touched the boat in the last week or so, but I did make up my mind on the motor support and picked up this..
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190923_193728.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19286&title=20190923-193728&cat=500)
I listed the other bracket for sale cheap and have someone wanting to pick it up tomorrow. I know I will be much happier with this one. Now to just find a motor to put on it.
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I'm betting you will be a whole lot happier. The boat will certainly look better.
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I see some painting in the near future
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I see some painting in the near future
Yup, just a bit. Will be worth it though for the savings over a new one.
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So another busy weekend with not a lot of progress on the boat. My main focus when I have a few mins lately has been putting together a supply list for wiring, pumps, lights and anything else I can think that I'll need to finish up. It's about time to spend some more money.
I did however manage to get the bracket sandblasted down and sprayed a coat of primer on it. Once I settle on a motor I will get the matching color sprayed on.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190928_144945.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19353&title=20190928-144945&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190928_173211.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19354&title=20190928-173211&cat=500)
Looked almost new once I got all the old paint and silicone off of it.
Oh, I also still have the old fiberglass bracket if anyone has any use for it. Someone was supposed to come get it but never did. $200 and it's yours.
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Ordered a truckload of stuff last night that should keep me quite busy for a while. All the wiring, rubrail, lights, switches, and a bunch of other misc things. I will say I enjoy shopping for boat stuff more than grinding glass!
I also have an eye out for a motor and trailer if anyone has or knows of one. Thanks
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I find rigging the boats to be one of the most fun parts. It is a whole bunch of fun to order parts and then button up all systems that will become what makes the boat great. Lighting has always been fun for me, installation comes with the immediate gratification of knowing you got it right. Good luck on the motor and trailer hunt. Both of those things seem to be a whole bunch easier to acquire down there than up here.
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Ordered a truckload of stuff last night that should keep me quite busy for a while. All the wiring, rubrail, lights, switches, and a bunch of other misc things. I will say I enjoy shopping for boat stuff more than grinding glass!
I also have an eye out for a motor and trailer if anyone has or knows of one. Thanks
Mike,
What did you have in mind for power. I am finding myself scanning for all things these days and will keep an eye out if I see something that suits you.
Ulysses
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Ordered a truckload of stuff last night that should keep me quite busy for a while. All the wiring, rubrail, lights, switches, and a bunch of other misc things. I will say I enjoy shopping for boat stuff more than grinding glass!
I also have an eye out for a motor and trailer if anyone has or knows of one. Thanks
Mike,
What did you have in mind for power. I am finding myself scanning for all things these days and will keep an eye out if I see something that suits you.
Ulysses
My first choices right now are a Yamaha or Suzuki 150. I thought about going brand new but there are quite a few used ones around. Problem is most people seem to think they are still new when pricing them.. Thanks for looking out
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I find rigging the boats to be one of the most fun parts. It is a whole bunch of fun to order parts and then button up all systems that will become what makes the boat great. Lighting has always been fun for me, installation comes with the immediate gratification of knowing you got it right. Good luck on the motor and trailer hunt. Both of those things seem to be a whole bunch easier to acquire down there than up here.
It is exciting to see the end. Though I would be a little more motivated to get out there and work on it if we could get out of the 90s every day. I do love summertime but I'm about ready for a break
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Once you get it rigged and an engine on it, there are still plenty to do to be finished. I still have a few, like get my old cover modified to fit the new configuration of the boat (added 8" offset of the engine), badges, etc. I still need to buy a trolling motor that I built the support (both structural and electrical) into my rebuild. The one I planned is like $1800. now.
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For sure, Rick. I have a feeling that the punch out list is going to be pretty significant.
I did manage to get back out there a bit this weekend and got the console and leaning post installed. It only took a few hours but it was nice to be back on the boat, and it looks like I actually did something.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191006_160238.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19362&title=20191006-160238&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191006_160300.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19363&title=20191006-160300&cat=500)
The pile is growing by the day as well!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191006_163659.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19364&title=20191006-163659&cat=500)
About the only things that I have left to buy are the motor and trailer. I'm got a few in mind so hopefully that will be purchased soon as well.
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Some progress is still progress :thumleft:
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Mike, that last pic looks like a sale advertisement for West Marine. :mrgreen:
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Mike, that last pic looks like a sale advertisement for West Marine. :mrgreen:
Haha, I will say that some of it came from there. I've been keeping an eye on their clearance page for the last few months. I picked up a new garmin for half price there a few months ago. Overtons also had some good deals. That's where I found the switch panel and bilge pumps. It's one nice thing about taking so long on the rebuild, I have time to wait for deals.
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Sure looks good Mike. Was there a reason, as a guide, that you didn't go with popup cleats for a clean gunwale tops?
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Sure looks good Mike. Was there a reason, as a guide, that you didn't go with popup cleats for a clean gunwale tops?
No guiding for me, just a family boat. :8): There was a time when I thought about guiding but I didn't want to turn my hobby into a job.
And yeah, it was mostly the cost. I went with Gemlux for pretty much all of the deck hardware and picked up these for $10 on their clearance page vs $40 for the pop up ones.
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Well, I finally know what color I'm painting the porta bracket. One big purchase out of the way!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191012_185000.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19368&title=20191012-185000&cat=500)
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Congrats on the new motor. It won’t be long now.
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Looks like you’re almost water ready! Great rebuild and I can’t wait to see more pictures.
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SWEET!!!!!
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Well, I finally know what color I'm painting the porta bracket. One big purchase out of the way!
If you haven’t already, test motor under load before dropping that big dough. Running motor on muffs only confirms a running motor, not performance. Boat looks great!!
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Making progress!
Got the porta bracket stripped down and repainted.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191014_094108.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19394&title=20191014-094108&cat=500)
Started on the electrical while that tropical storm moved by and it was raining.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191018_202445.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19395&title=20191018-202445&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191018_202456.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19396&title=20191018-202456&cat=500)
And then I got started on the rigging. I have enough rubrail to wrap around the whole boat so I decided to extend the lip around the transom so I could do that. I started by glassing a layer of 1/4" divinycell that I had leftover and then epoxied it to the back.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191019_145416.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19397&title=20191019-145416&cat=500)
Then it was just a little shaping and fairing to blend it in and a coat of gel.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191020_101921.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19398&title=20191020-101921&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191020_172102.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19400&title=20191020-172102&cat=500)
While that was drying I started drilling out the through hulls for all the pumps and drains along with the bow and stern eyes.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191020_122418.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19399&title=20191020-122418&cat=500)
I've been trying to focus on the boat so I can get it done. I had a week of vaca to burn so I took the next week off and plan on spending a good deal of time on it to wrap things up so hopefully I will keep the updates coming.
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Got the rubrail installed, all the through hull fittings glued in place, bilge pumps and float switches screwed down and plumbed, and the bow and stern eyes installed today.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191023_131414.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19406&title=20191023-131414&cat=500)
The deliveries have also been pouring in today. The hydraulic steering, wheel and the start of the n2k network arrived. I'll hopefully get started on all that soon. :8):
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It’s coming together beautifully Mike! Great progress. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.
Ulysses
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All that bling is looking good :thumleft:
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Finally got it off the stands!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191027_123535.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19407&title=20191027-123535&cat=500)
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That’s super exciting :cheering2:
How many more steps are you looking at before she’s water ready?
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:thumleft:
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That’s super exciting :cheering2:
How many more steps are you looking at before she’s water ready?
Well let's see. I have to mount the t-top, run all the wiring, cut out all the openings in the console, install everything on that, run the engine and steering cables to the back, install the porta bracket and engine, drill the deck drain through hulls and install those, and then probably about a million other small things that I'm forgetting. Oh, and then I still have a ton of small touch up things to do that I am putting off until after I get it in the water.
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That’s super exciting :cheering2:
How many more steps are you looking at before she’s water ready?
Well let's see. I have to mount the t-top, run all the wiring, cut out all the openings in the console, install everything on that, run the engine and steering cables to the back, install the porta bracket and engine, drill the deck drain through hulls and install those, and then probably about a million other small things that I'm forgetting. Oh, and then I still have a ton of small touch up things to do that I am putting off until after I get it in the water.
Words of encouragement lol honestly though, it sounds like a great part of the rebuild process that I look forward getting to. My biggest pet peeve are scuppers at or below the waterline. Do you plan on running your drains to the stern or out of the sides of the hull?
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The plan is to go out the back. I think I am going to wait to drill them until after I splash it the first time so I can mark the water line and make sure they are high enough. I raised the floor 2 1/2" so hopefully they stay dry
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Mike, what are the two round holes in the floor at the aft of the boat? Are these where you are going to drain the deck?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_192705.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19089&title=20190822-192705&cat=500)
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Mike, what are the two round holes in the floor at the aft of the boat? Are these where you are going to drain the deck?
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20190822_192705.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19089&title=20190822-192705&cat=500)
Yup, exactly. I installed some Gemlux deck drains.
https://www.gemlux.com/89501
They do stick down a little in the floor which is why I'm waiting to drill the transom holes. I want to make sure they are above the water line before I do. Worst case scenario I will have to fill them and put in a horizontal drain tube that's more level with the deck but I think I'll be able to use them with how much I raised the floor
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One suggestion, if the drains don't have to be moved, is that you're going to have water pooling behind the drains, in the corners and along the inner wall where your rear hatches are. To avoid the pooling, you might consider building up and rounding out the corner and rear edge with thickened resin so that it forces the water back toward the drains. It won't take much but it'll keep you from going nuts trying to get that water out.
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One thing I wish I would have thought about before I put the floor down is to add an extra layer of coosa under them so I could recess the holes down a half inch or so, but now I have a bulkhead there so I can't get under it very easily.
I did notice some water pooling up while it was on the stands but now that it is on the trailer I can just keep it a little more level and any extra drains right out of the floor hatch drains so hopefully it won't be a big deal.
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Starting to come together! Got the badges riveted back on and put the t-top in. Right now it's just held down with one screw in each foot so I can shim up the front and side brackets. Then I will through bolt it in place permanently. I also started laying out the console.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191101_170244.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19434&title=20191101-170244&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191030_202702.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19435&title=20191030-202702&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191101_120550.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19436&title=20191101-120550&cat=500)
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Lookin' good Mike.
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Old School on the badges... :great02:
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Coming along nicely! Great Job. I'm sure you are ready to get it on the water.
Thanks for sharing!
Ulysses
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I am excited for you. She is beautiful.
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Thanks guys!
Had another productive weekend. The weather finally broke which made it so much nicer to be out there all day.
Finished up installing everything on the console last night and got the t-top shimmed up and bolted down.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191102_192806.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19439&title=20191102-192806&cat=500)
Then I decided to get the porta bracket installed. I called them the other day and they sent over a few PDFs with everything I needed to get it going. Super nice folks over there. I have an engineer in the family so I sent the mounting template over and had it plotted out full size. Made it so much easier than measuring by hand.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191103_103540.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19440&title=20191103-103540&cat=500)
Getting it up there by myself was another story but I made it work.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191103_105335.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19441&title=20191103-105335&cat=500)
It still works! Well, it goes up at least lol. I shorted out one of the solenoids while I was touching the wires directly to the battery to test it a week or so ago. I'll give them another call tomorrow and order a replacement.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191103_162451.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19442&title=20191103-162451&cat=500)
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This is about the only visible sign of my progress this week but I've gotten a good amount done.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191117_170849.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19447&title=20191117-170849&cat=500)
I probably have 90% of the rigging done. I got the engine harness, throttle cables, and hydraulic lines for the bracket and steering run. New battery cables run, battery switch hooked up, all the pumps and electronics going, and the N2K network wired up and powered. All I really have left is the lugs for the starting battery and to clean everything up a little more (before I post a pic of the wiring lol). Then it'll be time to hang the motor!
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Almost there, kicking butt!
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(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191130_165156.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19501&title=20191130-165156&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191130_170619.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19502&title=20191130-170619&cat=500)
So close! Got the motor hung today. Unfortunately I couldn't fire it up yet because I broke the plastic fuel filter housing and have to wait for the new one to show up :38:
While I'm in there I'm gonna go ahead and do a full service. Oil change, impeller, anodes, spark plugs, etc. Then I'll just need to hook up and bleed the hydraulic steering lines and get it wet!
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Sure looking good Mike. Congrats and all your hard work is showing.
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awesome job Mike !
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:great02:
Excellent rebuild thread!
Might look a tad better with a Yamaha on back. :mrgreen:
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:great02:
Excellent rebuild thread!
Might look a tad better with a Yamaha on back. :mrgreen:
I would have been happy with either. I actually looked at a boat with a Yamaha on it to use but when I got there with a fist full of cash, the offer I emailed him, and he agreed to, suddenly became "outrageous" so I walked. Funny the way things work out because a week later I found this one and ended up saving enough money to still get the trailer, porta bracket, brand new hydraulic steering system, digital gauge, and still had some money leftover.
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I got the steering hooked up and bled, and had my mechanic come over and help me do a full tune up today to get the motor back up and running. It felt so nice to hear it fire right up and watch the gauges light up like I was hoping they would.
I still have to install the transducer and swim platform, and do a handful of other small things, but after today I can at least finally say that she is finally ready to hit the water!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191204_141255.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19514&title=20191204-141255&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191204_141241.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19513&title=20191204-141241&cat=500)
Not sure exactly when the first launch will be as of now but I will keep you all posted.
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Nice!!
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:salut:
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awesome cant wait to see it in the water, it will be ready for Tarpon Season thats for sure.
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Very nice, I really like the console setup. What size wheel is that? I wanted to shrink my console 6"-8" in width but ran out of time before striper season. Will definitely be doing it in the 196
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Very nice, I really like the console setup. What size wheel is that? I wanted to shrink my console 6"-8" in width but ran out of time before striper season. Will definitely be doing it in the 196
Thanks! The wheel is 13 1/2". I never liked how wide the factory console was, especially if there's a liner as well. This console fit everything I needed perfectly and leaves plenty of room to walk by.
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Very nice, I really like the console setup. What size wheel is that? I wanted to shrink my console 6"-8" in width but ran out of time before striper season. Will definitely be doing it in the 196
Thanks! The wheel is 13 1/2". I never liked how wide the factory console was, especially if there's a liner as well. This console fit everything I needed perfectly and leaves plenty of room to walk by.
Looks really great Mike! I'm in the same boat with the console size - yours gives you everything you need and more room - also for seating infront of the console - a cooler is much more usable than a built in on this type of boat I think
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I spent today finishing up the last few things on the list and then gave her a nice scrubbing. I think it's safe to say at this point that the rebuild is finally DONE! :singing:
Thank you again to everyone here for the encouragement and help along the way. I really could not have done it without you.
Now, enough talking and more pics.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143327.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19530&title=20191207-143327&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143425.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19531&title=20191207-143425&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143458.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19532&title=20191207-143458&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143635.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19534&title=20191207-143635&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143540.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19533&title=20191207-143540&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_1436351.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19535&title=20191207-1436351&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191207_143717.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19536&title=20191207-143717&cat=500)
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Outstanding. Great weather here the next couple days so I’m assuming you’re gonna splash and run her! Looking forward to hearing the #s!
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Sweet boat! She’ll look even better on the water. Congrats on finishing your rebuild.
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She sure looks fine Mike - Congrats on finishing the rebuild. Have a splash date picked out yet?
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Really really solid! I’ll cover the fuel, beer and bait...when we goin fishing?
Just kidding...Enjoy!
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Wow. Congrats. What a rebuild!!
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Can't wait to see it on the water! Hopefully you won't be too pissed to see a very similar 196 around you.
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She floats!
Went out for a quick shakedown run and everything worked great! The scuppers stayed above water and the deck stayed dry. It also felt very solid, albeit there were only a few boat wakes to contend with. The only issue, which I realized pretty quickly, was she is very under-propped. I pulled the prop off when I got home and realized it was only a 16 pitch so I did a little research and ordered a 21 today. It should be here in a few days and if all goes well I will try to get out this weekend for a little longer.
I meant to take a few more pictures but I was so nervous about the whole thing that I forgot to. I'll try to get a few more once I get it dialed in a little better.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191209_125906.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19542&title=20191209-125906&cat=500)
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_64521.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19543&title=img-64521&cat=500)
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That is a thing of beauty. Well done.
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It's always a good sign when they float. :ScrChin:
Excellent work Mike and another super documented rebuild. :thumright:
Enjoy.
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Looks great mike. Definitely more pictures next time! Your boat is basically exactly what I hope to build some day. Congrats
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Got the new prop put on yesterday and went for another quick run. She ran a lot nicer all around. Topped out in the low 40s and cruised right around 30. Pretty much just what I was hoping for. It was a little breezy and choppy after the front so I'm sure I will be able to squeeze a little more on a calm day when I can really play with the porta bracket and trim. In any case, I am happy for sure!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191214_170101.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19557&title=20191214-170101&cat=500)
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She looks great, Mike! Congratulations on finishing your build and becoming a master rebuilder.
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so clean , lets get some fish blood splatter on that deck !
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Well I took some time today and added up the rebuild log I have been keeping since the beginning. I ended up with a grand total of 885 hours to go from this:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20180709_144009.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=17309&title=20180709-144009&cat=500)
To this:
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20191215_122904.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19558&title=20191215-122904&cat=500)
I have every single receipt which I added up today as well, but I'd rather not talk about that lol. Let's just say I found a lot of good deals along the way and ended up right around where I thought I would be.
I told my wife that I could probably do the next one in half the time and for half the price which got me quite an eye roll. Well see how that ends up..
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Based on a 40 hr. work week, that ain't bad. 22 weeks and a 1/2 day Saturday (no lunch) and your rebuild thread is a year and 5 months start to finish. No sir, not bad at all. :thumright:
I've seen a rebuild thread done here, in a pro shop, take way longer and it had a much higher "drama level" from its thread beginning to its end. :popcorn:
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So nice to see it finished. Love the color. And the numbers you’re running are great. What rpm’s are you getting at the top.? See you out there soon.
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So nice to see it finished. Love the color. And the numbers you’re running are great. What rpm’s are you getting at the top.? See you out there soon.
I am still playing with the porta bracket but with it down I'm getting to about 6000 rpms. When I start to bring it up it gets a little higher. I'm sure I will get it dialed in once I get a few more hours on it.
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Some days are better than others!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200105_143700.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19586&title=20200105-143700&cat=500)
She has officially been named
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I also added some supports to the back of the t top. It had a little bit of a wag in the back when I would hit waves and this stiffened it up a lot. I guess that's part of working with what you find versus having things custom built.
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200105_104809.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19585&title=20200105-104809&cat=500)
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Both look great Mike.
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Hey all. Well I've gotten a few hours behind the helm and so far so good. I've made a few small tweaks here and there and it is really getting dialed in now. I ended up changing props again this time to a 20 pitch four blade powertech and I think it's going to be the keeper. The other one was good but would slip a little more than I wanted especially around turns. This one has a little better bite and hole shot and actually added a few mph to the top end. I saw 42 on my first test run on a crappy cool day.
Took it out for the first real trial this weekend. Took advantage of the nice weather and ran from Bradenton down to Gasparilla. I averaged a 30-32 mph cruise at about 4700 rpms and 4.5 mpg with five people and 20-30 gallons of fuel.
Made it!
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200215_151729.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19851&title=20200215-151729&cat=500)
Sitting pretty, scuppers just above the waterline
(http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20200216_110718.jpg) (http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19852&title=20200216-110718&cat=500)
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Looks really nice Mike.
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Ah, commit that placid picture to memory as the deck becomes covered in blood, sweat and scales. :ScrChin:
Enjoy!
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Thought I might get an up close inspection of it on Sunday out at Passage key. But I realized as we got closer it was a Mako redone quite similar to yours.
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I've gone now gone through this whole thread piece-meal. Beautiful work Mike.
I'll be doing the transom on my 19-1 very similarly to how you did yours.
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Your boat looks great. Question: what did you use for rub rail and are you happy with it. It sure looks sharp.
Chuck
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Thank you, guys!
For the rubrail I went with the Taco V11-9811WCM70-2 and splurged for the matching flush mount lights. They were not cheap but I really like them both. The lights are really bright for how small they are and so far seem pretty durable. I kissed a plastic piling last week and actually had to remove one of the screws to get all the plastic out but it didn't hurt the light at all.
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I remember looking through this when I started my build. Very nice looking boat mike. I'm sure you have gotten some good use out of it. I cant wait to finish mine up. I didnt do nearly as much as you. Hows it been treating you? Any regrets or things you wish you would have done differently?
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Ah yes, I have definitely gotten some use out of it. So far I haven't had any real issues. Just some small stuff that was mostly to be expected as I dialed it in.
Luckily I don't have any real regrets. I mean of course I could have just spent a lot more money and made everything brand new and perfect, but I think given my abilities and resources it came out better than I expected.
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Money is the answer to most questions. At least with boats 😂. Glad to hear that.
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Hey guys! Well she's made it a year and is still kicking. There have been lots of family trips, a ton of scales on the deck and a few dings and scratches but overall has handled it well. Thankfully there have been no major issues, knock on wood. Last month I added a power pole, which is a game changer when fishing the flats, and last weekend I did a full service on the motor.
Here's to another great year :singing:
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20210221_112855.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21537&title=20210221-112855&cat=500)
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Looks great! Thank you for the motivation.
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:great02:
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Mike - when you went through the process of picking out your outboard bracket, did you come across any information that would suggest the porta bracket with the porta branded swim platform would make adding power poles more difficult. I know they've got the the adapters but just curious if you had any information on that. I havent seen any pictures that shows the porta with the swim platform & power poles.
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I don't think it would be an issue with the right adapter. I mounted mine out by the motor vs on the transom which should leave room for the swim platform. I wanted it back out of the way of the rigging plus this way I can drop down the bracket and get a little more anchoring depth if needed.
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20210201_112256.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21565&title=20210201-112256&cat=500)
(https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/data/500/20210121_154739.jpg) (https://classicaquasport.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21564&title=20210121-154739&cat=500)
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Thanks for the pictures & smart idea with being able to drop the bracket for more depth!