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Author Topic: 1980 200 CCP  (Read 6170 times)

July 25, 2011, 10:59:28 AM
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WannabeDeepSea

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1980 200 CCP
« on: July 25, 2011, 10:59:28 AM »
I bought a 1980 200 CCP on 7/14/11 and have proceeded to tear it apart in order to rebuild it again(the deck was rotted).  I will add pictures as soon as my wife will bring her camera back.  Anyway, I have removed all wiring and mechanical parts, removed console, cut out the deck(including the bath tub splashwell), removed the tops of the stringers and removed all foam in the boat(stringers and outside the stringers).  I say I have removed all, that is not fully accurate as I have run into a slight jam.  The last two feet or so(nearest the transom) is still there.  I wanted to ask if it was possible to access the foam here by removing the sides of the stringers?  From a strength standpoint, as long as I glass it back, it should not make a difference, correct?  The reason I want to go through th side is because there are transom supports attached to the top of them(and because the tops are halfway covered by the corner boxes of the cap).  I have been stalled for a couple of days wondering the best route to take.  Thanks for your help!

July 25, 2011, 11:54:14 AM
Reply #1

WannabeDeepSea

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2011, 11:54:14 AM »
I am also wondering a couple of other things:

Is there wood in the strip that runs along the inside of the keel?

Is it safe to pressure wash the entire inside bare hull?

Thanks!

July 25, 2011, 12:02:09 PM
Reply #2

gran398

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2011, 12:02:09 PM »
Don't see a problem going through one side in such a small area...just leave the tops on at that position.

 You definitely want it out tho, especially back there.

G'luck :thumright:

Yep, there is wood under the glass on that strip. There was in my '73. Put a grinder on it, make it go poof. Come back with something synthetic. Then 1708.

July 25, 2011, 12:44:23 PM
Reply #3

GoneFission

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2011, 12:44:23 PM »
Quote from: "WannabeDeepSea"
The last two feet or so(nearest the transom) is still there.  I wanted to ask if it was possible to access the foam here by removing the sides of the stringers?  

Use a long, narrow shovel and you can get that foam out.  You can use a paint stirrer on a drill to cut holes in the foam if you need to.  Then finish off getting the foam out with the power washer.
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


July 25, 2011, 09:14:45 PM
Reply #4

gran398

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2011, 09:14:45 PM »
If you do choose to use a power washer inside the stringers: tilt the trailer as high as possible to allow water flow to the stern. Use a shop vac to remove the residual trapped water. Then come back and spend some time inside the stringers with a leaf blower, moving moisture to the stern. Then vac again. Carefully place a heat lamp back there if necessary...move indoors to dry.

Prior to re-foaming/re-glassing...you want a bone-dry substrate.

The new encapsulated stringer system should go fifty years, if not pierced.

July 25, 2011, 09:29:15 PM
Reply #5

WannabeDeepSea

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2011, 09:29:15 PM »
I think I spent 16 hours removing closed cell foam.  I found some reinforcement plywood glassed inside the stringers when I cut the side of them at the transom.  If I had to guess only 2-5% of the foam was moist in the stringers.  The foam was difficult to remove.  I had to use a crow bar to pop little chunks out.  I think it was one of the most frustrating things I have done. Itchy too.  :scratch:

July 25, 2011, 11:38:25 PM
Reply #6

gran398

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Re: 1980 200 CCP- need help with foam removal
« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2011, 11:38:25 PM »
Well...that's good. Actually great. That you have un-soaked foam...you're in the top two to five percent. And not as a factor of soaked foam on the bottom as you describe...as a percentage of owners who do not have soaked foam.

Given that, would not introduce water inside the stringers. Keep her dry.

This good news may also be a function of CCP layup/construction. The CCP owners in the past haven't noted waterlogged stringers...more good news.

Keep posting. Let us know. Thanks.

August 13, 2011, 11:53:46 PM
Reply #7

WannabeDeepSea

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2011, 11:53:46 PM »
OK, I am in the middle of replacing the foam with 4lb us composites poly.  I plan to raise the stringers 3/4 to 1" and set the new core(greenwood plydek) on top of the lip I left.  I have started grinding(and itching) and am stuck wondering how many inches up do I need to grind in order to tape(tab) the new deck to the lip and cap.  

I am also wondering(and I need to attach some pics) about a "plug" the previous owner put in a thru hull. It is a full repair on the outer.  It appears to be a wooden plug(dowel?) used as a core on the inner.  The wood seems ok, but unsealed.  Should I grind it and glass over it?  

The thru hull for the scuppers and deck drain also have wood backing that is bare, should I grind these out and glass those spots as well?

I have a hundred(exaggerating a bit) of other questions but need to have a little patience(and of course some pics) before I ask any more.

Oh, one more question tonight, I sweat a lot.  Is there a respirator that works ok and doesn't clog with sweat?  "I am having a hell of a time trying to breathe through all of the moisture.

Thanks!

August 14, 2011, 01:29:31 AM
Reply #8

gran398

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #8 on: August 14, 2011, 01:29:31 AM »
The sweat thing sucks.

Fitz and I have discussed at great length the idea of cutting out a rotten deck, and leaving an inch and a half or so of the former deck as a ledge. Use the remains as support, and build the new deck on top of it.

That idea has been proffered here on Classic Aquasport rebuilds since day one.

We have mutually concluded that this is an easy but poor escape.

To the extent that we cut out the rotten floor for the rebuild/repair...what is left in that inch and a half on the ledge?

Nothing but more wet plywood rot.

JMHO... thanks.

August 14, 2011, 09:46:08 AM
Reply #9

WannabeDeepSea

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2011, 09:46:08 AM »
The ply around the lip(the very little that remains) is in good shape.  The wood that was wet was along the center line(console screws, two compartments did not have drains at all  :shock: and 3 access plates/ hatches that were not sealed).
Thanks!

August 14, 2011, 09:47:53 AM
Reply #10

saltfly

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2011, 09:47:53 AM »
I agree with gran. Never leave old rotted wood, it will bit you later. I’m going to rebuild my deck this winter. Since I did a core simple on my stringers at the transoms. I don’t have a problem their. So I ‘m going to try something different. I’m going to cut out the top glass and remove it as one piece. Then dig out the rotted wood. Which on my boat won’t be hard, since its all rotted. That will leave the under layer of glass. I then am going to sand that layer and  coat with epoxy to seal. Then resand and add a layer of glass. Then add what ever matl. I decide to use. Then add a layer of glass and the old top layer. That will leave me with original glass deck. Then I will only have to deal with the joint at the gunnels. Then paint. Which will give me the final seal. I see know reason why it won't work. But I have the time to try somthing different. That's what so great about being RETIRED. :thumright:

August 14, 2011, 10:20:36 AM
Reply #11

GoneFission

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2011, 10:20:36 AM »
Quote from: "WannabeDeepSea"
OK, I am in the middle of replacing the foam with 4lb us composites poly.  I plan to raise the stringers 3/4 to 1" and set the new core(greenwood plydek) on top of the lip I left.  I have started grinding(and itching) and am stuck wondering how many inches up do I need to grind in order to tape(tab) the new deck to the lip and cap.  

First, I would not replace the foam under the deck - leave that area open and you will be better off.  You can use if for stowage or whatever, but refoaming just traps moisture under the decking.  Actually, using a saw and putting the new deck on top of the old deck "tab" works pretty well on CCPs.  A CCP has a full liner and is different from the Osprey versions.  You will want to add enough spacer on top of the stringers to meet the new deck height.  Regardign greenwood - be careful with that!  Epoxy/resin will not bond with some treated or coated wood - you don't want a near term delam!

I am also wondering(and I need to attach some pics) about a "plug" the previous owner put in a thru hull. It is a full repair on the outer.  It appears to be a wooden plug(dowel?) used as a core on the inner.  The wood seems ok, but unsealed.  Should I grind it and glass over it?  

Yes, remove the plug and either put in a proper thru-hull or fill it and glass over it.  

The thru hull for the scuppers and deck drain also have wood backing that is bare, should I grind these out and glass those spots as well?

Good plan - get rid of bare wood anywhere you find it.  You only have access to some of these areas now - it will be a bugger later - so a little work now could save a ton of frustration later!

I have a hundred(exaggerating a bit) of other questions but need to have a little patience(and of course some pics) before I ask any more.

Oh, one more question tonight, I sweat a lot.  Is there a respirator that works ok and doesn't clog with sweat?  "I am having a hell of a time trying to breathe through all of the moisture.

What kind o respirator are you using?  For fiberglass dust you can use a cloth/fiber M95 thatwith a vent port that is pretty comfortable.  You don't need a plastic half-face unless you are using solvents.  
Thanks!
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


August 14, 2011, 10:24:00 AM
Reply #12

fitz73222

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #12 on: August 14, 2011, 10:24:00 AM »
Quote from: "saltfly"
I agree with gran. Never leave old rotted wood, it will bit you later. I’m going to rebuild my deck this winter. Since I did a core simple on my stringers at the transoms. I don’t have a problem their. So I ‘m going to try something different. I’m going to cut out the top glass and remove it as one piece. Then dig out the rotted wood. Which on my boat won’t be hard, since its all rotted. That will leave the under layer of glass. I then am going to sand that layer and  coat with epoxy to seal. Then resand and add a layer of glass. Then add what ever matl. I decide to use. Then add a layer of glass and the old top layer. That will leave me with original glass deck. Then I will only have to deal with the joint at the gunnels. Then paint. Which will give me the final seal. I see know reason why it won't work. But I have the time to try somthing different. That's what so great about being RETIRED. :thumright:

Hi Saltfly,
So do I understand that you are saying you are going to attempt to remove the entire original inner liner as an assembly; recore, reglass and reassemble basically the way it was built originally? If so, you are going to have to cut the adhesive line that bonded the floor to the top of the stringers to pull it out. Bravo! I've been waiting to see if this could be done!
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

August 14, 2011, 01:25:50 PM
Reply #13

saltfly

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #13 on: August 14, 2011, 01:25:50 PM »
No fitz, I’m going to cut the deck glass at the radius were it meets the gunnels. Once that top glass layer is removed. Their will be only rotted wood. Once that is removed. The under layer of glass which is bonded to the stringers will still be their and so will the inner liner from the gunnels up. Only the top glass of the deck part of the inner liner will be removed.

August 15, 2011, 10:29:44 AM
Reply #14

GoneFission

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Re: 1980 200 CCP
« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2011, 10:29:44 AM »
Quote from: "fitz73222"
Hi Saltfly,
So do I understand that you are saying you are going to attempt to remove the entire original inner liner as an assembly; recore, reglass and reassemble basically the way it was built originally? If so, you are going to have to cut the adhesive line that bonded the floor to the top of the stringers to pull it out. Bravo! I've been waiting to see if this could be done!

I've seen the liner separated from the hull and redone at least once, but taking the liner out is a bear.  Here's a shot of a 200CCP with the liner cut around the edges for a redeck:  
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


 

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