1971 19-1 Osprey Rebuild (any help is appreciated)

[avidskier]

Complete novice looking to rebuild his classic aquasport. Please forgive me in advance for the lack of correct terminology.
I purchased this boat last year and had it on the water a total of 4 times before I started tinkering with things. The boat now sits and waits for attention which I have finally decided to start doing.

This 1971 has a casting desk and a center console (will post photos). There are stress fractures in the deck and the floor, while seemingly solid, does have a few questionable spots. I did see, through one of the access ports, that the stringers are peeling and are going to need attention. The transom has cracks and some questionable spots as well.
The electrical also needs attention. I will also be re-wiring the whole boat once the floor and transom are complete. The center console will also need refinishing.
It has a 1993 V4-140 Looper that also runs. I have a newer (1996) midsection (with tilt and trim) that I will be updating this with.


I have seen and read quite a bit on glassing, epoxy and deck work to take on this project. It's going to be slow and steady because while I have the ability and mechanical inclination, I just don't have the funds to do it all at once.
I have some initial questions that I could use some advice on:
1. I'm going to start by cutting the casting deck. I know for sure the floor underneath the casting deck is rotted. As I'm cutting should I cut flush with the side of the boat or should I leave a lip so when the new deck goes on I have a guide?
2. Unless I have a jig or a brace I should do one thing at a time. i.e. stringers and then transom or vice versa, correct? I'm planning to leave the boat on the trailer and then later when I'm ready to sand and paint the hull, I will put it on blocks.
3. As I mentioned, funds are limited but I also don't want to go cheap on the rebuild. Any advice on where I can buy inexpensive but good fiberglass resin and fiberglass sheets?
4. Does anyone have any thoughts on the stringers? Will wood be the better choice? Is there a certain type?

I'm sure some additional questions will pop up and I really appreciate any feedback you aquasport pros may have for me.

[avidskier]

So, I wasn't able to post the photos on this thread as they were too large. I posted them in the photo gallery. Thanks

[Aquasport Commodore]

Complete novice looking to rebuild his classic aquasport. Please forgive me in advance for the lack of correct terminology.
I purchased this boat last year and had it on the water a total of 4 times before I started tinkering with things. The boat now sits and waits for attention which I have finally decided to start doing.

This 1971 has a casting desk and a center console (will post photos). There are stress fractures in the deck and the floor, while seemingly solid, does have a few questionable spots. I did see, through one of the access ports, that the stringers are peeling and are going to need attention. The transom has cracks and some questionable spots as well.
The electrical also needs attention. I will also be re-wiring the whole boat once the floor and transom are complete. The center console will also need refinishing.
It has a 1993 V4-140 Looper that also runs. I have a newer (1996) midsection (with tilt and trim) that I will be updating this with.


I have seen and read quite a bit on glassing, epoxy and deck work to take on this project. It's going to be slow and steady because while I have the ability and mechanical inclination, I just don't have the funds to do it all at once.
I have some initial questions that I could use some advice on:
1. I'm going to start by cutting the casting deck. I know for sure the floor underneath the casting deck is rotted. As I'm cutting should I cut flush with the side of the boat or should I leave a lip so when the new deck goes on I have a guide?
2. Unless I have a jig or a brace I should do one thing at a time. i.e. stringers and then transom or vice versa, correct? I'm planning to leave the boat on the trailer and then later when I'm ready to sand and paint the hull, I will put it on blocks.
3. As I mentioned, funds are limited but I also don't want to go cheap on the rebuild. Any advice on where I can buy inexpensive but good fiberglass resin and fiberglass sheets?
4. Does anyone have any thoughts on the stringers? Will wood be the better choice? Is there a certain type?

I'm sure some additional questions will pop up and I really appreciate any feedback you aquasport pros may have for me.

Hi and I will give you some info as I am also doing a 19-1. It would help alot by telling us where you are so we can point you in the right direction. There are so many ways to do things and none are right or wrong, just what works for us. I'll answer you questions in order.

1: You can leave the lip and lay the layer on top and use as a guide, or you can take the entire liner out when you take the floor out. Make your own sides where it will sit on the hull (easy to to by the way) and attach it to the hull sides (thats what I'm going to do on mine) or you can do like Grand did and put in square FRP tubes and attach to the top of those.

2: I would leave the casting deck and floor in for now. Make sure the hull is square on the trailer and level. Approx 18" in front of the transom, I would attach a 2x4 across the top then cut the cap ends off. Remove a 2' section of the deck an and the section of exposed stringers. Then remove the transom (many ways to do that) and replace the transom with Coosa bluewater 26 1 1/2" then cover with 4 layers of 1708db. Then when that is done, secure the hull where it is blocked on several locations and square with level, cut out remaining deck and casting deck. Break out the grinder and have fun removing the stringers and old glass.

3: Depends where you are. You can get an entire roll of 1708db 50" wide for around $425 which is around 180 yards give or take or pay $7.00 a yard (cheaper by the roll) from Marine Surplus in Sarasota (Bradenton), Resin and Epoxy I found from Us Composites is the cheapest. I am doing my entire hull inside with Epoxy. No delam issues with epoxy and adhears to the old glass much better. (The prior owner of my 19-1 used poly and did not prep will and the glass came up in full sheets with little effort. Prep is Key with poly on poly) I will build the deck and casting deck outside the boat with Poly and attach using epoxy as I will be a new fresh build on the deck and not a recover.

4: Why go backwards. The ones you have lasted for many years and with the new materials (4lb Pour closed cell foam from US Composites) and new glass that would be a no brainier. You don't have the use 4 or 5 stringers, just 2 with some bulkheads to support the hull joints to the hull side. Use Nida Core for the deck, Divinycell for the casting deck (easy to router and round over the edge to casting deck bulk head) and the front casting deck bulk head. Much lighter, no water retention and NO ROT The cost of the Nida is actually cheaper then ply and the Divinycell is the same way. You can also make your bulkheads for the hull deck with the pour foam and fiberglass and have it as one piece. When you get done, you will be close the same cost as using ply but you will have a boat that never will need to be rebuilt again and much lighter as well. (An example of weight savings using composites is this: A 3/4" in ply is around 60-70 lbs with no resin or glass, a .6" Nidecore with 4 layers of glass for a total height of .75'" will be around 30lbs)

May I make 1 suggestion, run your chases and wires prior to buttoning up the floor. Have everything terminated to their locations and then put the floor on. Also leave a string in the chase for future pulls. It is much easier to to that with the deck off then trying to make it fit later.

[Aquasport Commodore]

[Aquasport Commodore]

I like that Osprey    (Not a Gull due to center console and it not being up against the casting deck)
I think you are in Palm Beach, you have Marine Liquidators there and US Composites are in your neighborhood, so you don't have to ship, just order the day before and pick up. They do this now as I picked up my supplies 2 months ago. Great people.

[avidskier]

Kevin, thanks for the replies.
I'm in West Palm Beach, acreage. US composites is very close to me and looks like they will be able to take care of my glass, resin and foam needs. Very reasonably priced too!
Thanks for getting my photos on this post.
Where can I get my hands on the "Nida Core and  Divinycel" you mention? WOW, that bluewater coosa is super expensive! I know this would be ideal but can I get away with marine ply and glass and resin?
I have a stupid question. When cutting the 2' section you speak of, you mean the floor? I want to save as much as I can of the outer lip (photo #3 and #4) on top of the outer edged of the transom so I can glass and resin that in later, correct?
The bumper, you see me pulling on, will also come out which should facilitate the removal of that lip from the transom.
Man, I really hope you don't mind the novice questions.

Thanks in advance.

[Capt. Bob]

Thanks for getting my photos on this post.

You did the hard work though they view a little easier on old eyes now that they're separated.

Good luck with your rebuild.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Cut 2 foot from the transom in to the main part of the deck Will give you room to tab into the hull for the transom and remove the stringers from that section as well. Once that is done and the transom is in, then go forward. As for the Ply you can use that, just make sure the wood is sealed good and you oversize all holes and back fill with epoxy then drill again. This way no water gets into the ply. But by the time you price 2 3/4" ply, all the resin needed to encapsulate it, the the layers of glass before you even put it in the boat, you are at what the Coosa will be at and still have to deal with the rot issue if not done right. My thoughts are pay a little more now (not much more then when done with Ply) and no worries later.  Check your local boat builders in the area and see if they can get you a sheet at their price

As for the Nida:
Go to FGCI.com (which also has a store by you) then click on Online Store on tab at top of page, then click on Coring down left side, then click on Nida Core, then the 5lb section

The Divinicel is also stocked by Us Composites as well or just use Nida as well. As for where you are pulling the rubrail, yes remove that section of cap about a foot forward to help with transom access.

As for asking, we all did and learn from each other, just paying forward as was done for me.

Here is a good place for FRP square pipe for your deck to hull edge if you wish to remove http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm price is pretty good. As for the Divinicel for the hull sides should you choose, go to this site, much cheaper then FGCI http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... llfoam.php use the 1/8 in for the hull sides to help with fairing.

[gran398]

Greats posts Kevin!

[avidskier]

Phase 1 nearly complete.
1. Powerhead is nearly off my 140 Looper. It was a bitch of a time getting this thing off. All the bolts came off with the exception of one of the six long midsection bolts that broke. Had to drill into midsection. I do have a newer midsection to add to my motor complete with tilt and trim and lower unit so I wasn't too worried about destroying it.
2. Homemade engine hoist: 2 pine trees in my yard perfectly aligned. Nailed in 2x6 (no cost from neighbors garbage). Come along ($28.00 home depot). 3 metric stainless steel bolts ($.95 each at home depot) and a bed bolts or as you can see in photo, more or less eye bolt for $7.00 bucks (home depot which I will be returning. Finally a harmonic puller from Napa auto parts for $11.00. Total cost for home made wench after I return some items, $42.00. Much better than paying $40.00 (ebay) alone for a lifting key and then a come along and the cost of having to rent a cherry picker for $30.00 per day.

I still have to figure out how to load photos on this post. I will upload photos in photo gallery under my avidskier username.

[RickK]

Being creative not only saves you money but can also save some time.

As for the pics, there is a topic at the top of every forum that walks you through posting pics in your topic - it's very easy.

[Capt. Bob]

Phase 1 nearly complete.
1. Powerhead is nearly off my 140 Looper. It was a bitch of a time getting this thing off. All the bolts came off with the exception of one of the six long midsection bolts that broke. Had to drill into midsection. I do have a newer midsection to add to my motor complete with tilt and trim and lower unit so I wasn't too worried about destroying it.

2. Homemade engine hoist: 2 pine trees in my yard perfectly aligned. Nailed in 2x6 (no cost from neighbors garbage). Come along ($28.00 home depot). 3 metric stainless steel bolts ($.95 each at home depot) and a bed bolts or as you can see in photo, more or less eye bolt for $7.00 bucks (home depot which I will be returning. Finally a harmonic puller from Napa auto parts for $11.00.

Good luck.

[Aquasport Commodore]

Hey Avid how is it coming along, any updates?

[avidskier]

Hey Kevin,
So, I got the powerhead off as I mentioned last time. It was a true test of my patience. I so wanted to use a pry bar to get it off the midsection but intuition and lots of research haunted my every moved. Three days later and plenty of liquid wrench and pounding and drilling, it gave way.
Not much done after this due to other priorities.
I did get the midsection off/unbolted off transom and set aside.
Started working on stripping the old transom. It's amazing how a seemingly solid transom could be so rotten. Parts of the top and side of the transom are completely gone. I'm talking moosh in terms of consistency. The only thing holding it together was the fiber.
Also noticed after cutting part of the floor off that the stringers are in as bad of shape as the transom is. Delaminating and the foam at the rear part of the stringers is completely soaked.
I was hoping to get some if not all of the old transom off today but rain put a damper on that idea. I don't have a garage so all the work takes place outside.
I'm pretty savy when it comes to technology but I can't figure out how to load photos on this post.
That's my plan for right now. Back in a few, hopefully with some photos.

[avidskier]