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Author Topic: Thru hull windows  (Read 2069 times)

January 18, 2016, 04:39:15 PM
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FL.flatback

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Thru hull windows
« on: January 18, 2016, 04:39:15 PM »
As the proud owner of a '70 flatback. I have learned so much from this site. At this point mission creep has me in a snag. I just finished the floor and transom, all coosa board. Then I got to poking around at the glass windows in the floor. The glass work  holding them in looked a bit rough. One thing led to another.... now there out. Im going to buy new plexiglass pieces. But Im not 100% sure what type of sealent was used on the out side of the hull. Does anyone have any info on re-installing the windows? I will try'n get some pics if needed. Thanks.

January 21, 2016, 06:31:45 AM
Reply #1

RickK

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2016, 06:31:45 AM »
I was hoping the FB owners would jump in on this - guess we've only seen the viewing windows removed and filled in, not removed and replaced.
If you think it through carefully and use good epoxy to bed the plexi windows and then glass them in with epoxy I don't see why you couldn't replace them.  Do you still have the baitwell in place that they were in originally? 

I think we have "group-decided" that the original hull molds had the windows in them and if the buyer didn't want the windows, they filled the holes in the process.  We have seen a few that discovered they had the holes patched in, after the floors were pulled.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 21, 2016, 09:11:42 AM
Reply #2

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2016, 09:11:42 AM »
The baitwell area is still intact. I talked with the guy's over at Hammerhead boat works. He told me how he replaces them. Sounded like a solid plan. So hopefully I can have them back in this weekend.

January 21, 2016, 11:47:48 AM
Reply #3

RickK

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2016, 11:47:48 AM »
Take and post some pics of the process so we can all learn.  :thumleft:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 21, 2016, 12:44:08 PM
Reply #4

merkin222

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2016, 12:44:08 PM »
Hi there, FL. Hey Rick.

I agree, FL, if you can post up what Hammerhead shared with you re: the original mounting process and/or how they replace and re-mount, then you'd have our appreciation.

I have a 69 window boat, and I am in the transom and floor restos right now, with the plan to address windows in a couple weeks.

Thanks,

Neill

Have fish? Will travel.

January 21, 2016, 01:30:01 PM
Reply #5

CLM65

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2016, 01:30:01 PM »
My 67 FB doesn't have windows, and there was no indication that it ever did, so I can't offer any useful info on how to do it or what to use.  But if it had them, I would do whatever it takes to make sure that feature remained.

What was the original material for the windows?  Hopefully the plexi doesn't scratch very easy.  Is that the material HH recommends?
Craig

2002 205 Osprey, 200 HP Yamaha OX66


1967 22-2 Flatback (Rebuild in progress)

January 21, 2016, 06:38:40 PM
Reply #6

RickK

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #6 on: January 21, 2016, 06:38:40 PM »
I wondered what the originals were made from - look like plexi but makes you wonder what they had back in the 60s for strength - maybe they had strong stuff, resistant to scratches. Maybe that hasn't changed much.
Since you've already pulled them out, how thick were they?  Were they deeply scratched?  Were they beveled on the edges?  Can you post some pics of the old ones please?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 21, 2016, 08:15:31 PM
Reply #7

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #7 on: January 21, 2016, 08:15:31 PM »
The HH guys said they weld up two flat frames using 2"x1/8" alum flat stock. They use a frame on the inside and outside of the hull to sandwich the window in the hole with 5200 and thru-bolt. Mine will be slightly different because I dont have room in the well for the inner frame. I cut out two SS 1/8" one piece frames. Using one frame on the outside and glassing the inner seam like original. I will thru-bolt with counter sunk screws on the outside. Merritt Marine suggested using 5200 ONLY to bond the frame to hull. Using Sika 209 primer and 295 adhesive to bond and seal window to frame. The plastic's shop said it was plexiglass. They were 1/2" thick ad beveled on the side that faced the outside of hull. that seam was sealed with some type of black sealant then gelcoated over. Im having trouble loading pictures into my new album. I'll try'n get them to you guys soon.

January 21, 2016, 08:52:03 PM
Reply #8

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #8 on: January 21, 2016, 08:52:03 PM »
Hope the pics help.







January 21, 2016, 08:56:29 PM
Reply #9

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #9 on: January 21, 2016, 08:56:29 PM »
 The frame is just clamped in for test fit. I need to sand and prep the surfaces for adhesive. Does it seen like the idea is going in the right direction. Im open to any suggestions?

January 22, 2016, 05:17:23 AM
Reply #10

RickK

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2016, 05:17:23 AM »
How do the old windows fit in the holes presently? 
Is the bevel of the old still correct for the holes?
I assume you purchased new windows. Do you have pics of the new plexi?
Are they beveled? How do they dry fit? 

Sorry for all the questions.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

January 22, 2016, 06:41:01 AM
Reply #11

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2016, 06:41:01 AM »
The old windows are pretty rough.They would fit back in OK. But the two new pieces are going to cost $30. So its not worth the hours to fool with. The new frames fit the contour nice by clamping them. Im guessing I will slightly bevel the outside of the new windows. I'm going to pick them up this afternoon after work. I'll post some pics.

January 22, 2016, 11:30:41 AM
Reply #12

merkin222

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2016, 11:30:41 AM »
Hi FL,

Looks like a nice resto coming together there, and the info is very much appreciated.

On my side, I was hoping to be able to polish the original plexi to a decent degree of clarity (they're not too bad, as is), using a headlight kit or something similar, and then use 5200 to reinforce/reseal the framing.

This information you're posting up, about the materials and framing, is a big help in considering the full replacement.

Look forward to seeing the new pieces. Did you go with plexi, or lexan, or something else?

Cheers
Have fish? Will travel.

January 24, 2016, 11:35:17 AM
Reply #13

FL.flatback

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2016, 11:35:17 AM »
Sanded the frame's for adhesive.


Fit the new 1/2" plexiglass windows. I havent peeled back the paper to prep the window. 


This is how they look together. The one on the left is the view from the bottom and on the right is the inside.

January 24, 2016, 04:06:01 PM
Reply #14

RickK

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Re: Thru hull windows
« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2016, 04:06:01 PM »
So the frames are there to keep the glass flush and in place as the adhesive drys? Temporary though, correct?  I am not clear on what you are thru-bolting the glass to?

Quote
Sanded the frame's for adhesive.

I may be over-thinking this but I would think that you do not want anything to stick to the outer frame around the glass, especially adhesive, or you won't be able to pull them back off.  I think I might tape off the frame where the glass touches them. I understand 5200 or maybe 4200 to stick the outer frame to the hull. Does HH leave the inner frame in the boat when installed?

I'm sure Merritt knows what they are talking about but I can't find where it says Sika can be used under water.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1170&title=Marine+Adhesives+Strength+and+Usage+Comparison+Chart
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 

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