1970 Aquasport 222 FB rebuild

[RickK]

Do you have an old formica counter top?  That would work even better as long as it's wide enough.

[HawgLeg]

Rick,
Don't have any but my buddy who is a carpenter may. I picked up some visqueen at Lowes today. What type of wax do I need. Can you use car wax?

[RickK]

I've never used formica but Aaron did.

Looks good Aaron.  Was it hard to pop the glass off the formica?  Did you wax it first or .... 

i waxed it but isnt really necessary. pull out super easy.

Even if you can find a sheet of the ugliest design in a store that they want to get rid of for cheap - or a cabinet makers shop that has left overs from a job, that'll give you the best form making tool.  Get the formica and lam it on a piece of plywood.

[HawgLeg]

I found a 4x8 piece of formica at Lowe's. It was pretty banged up but was able to talk them into letting me have it for $20. Gonna build a frame with 2x4's on the back of a 4x8 piece of play and glue the formica to it. When I get done i can use it as a table. I see how to clamp it to the transom using a c-clamp on a block on the hull side then a squeeze clamp from block to dam but how would you screw the dam to the old skin lip to get it tight and flush?

[RickK]

Nice score - you can glue the formica to some Masonite or something that'll keep it flat and you can use it as a "wet out" table when you're done using it as the form for the transom - this is where you pre wet the cloth and then lay it where you need it.

I'll delete the posts about the teens - a sad situation for sure.

[Shine]

I found a 4x8 piece of formica at Lowe's. It was pretty banged up but was able to talk them into letting me have it for $20. Gonna build a frame with 2x4's on the back of a 4x8 piece of play and glue the formica to it. When I get done i can use it as a table. I see how to clamp it to the transom using a c-clamp on a block on the hull side then a squeeze clamp from block to dam but how would you screw the dam to the old skin lip to get it tight and flush?

Some sturdy screws should pull it down tight, drill pilot holes first.  It does not need to be super super tight, you will not be putting much pressure on it while you laminate the inside skin.  You can just cut or grind off the tips of the screws from the inside


When you bed (clamp or screw) in the new core, you will be pulling it together with the "mold".   

[HawgLeg]

Got a little closer to laying up my skin this weekend. I know my dam is a little on the large side but I want to use it as a table afterward and I didn't want to waste any material. I have some ideas on how I can use clamps to hold up my cloth while I'm laying up the skin. Thinking of clamping small piece of wood at the appropriate height on the dam for that. Its REALLY warm up here in GA so whatever glass work I do will need to be at night.

Here is a pic from last week when I cut out the old skin leaving a lip.



Here is my 4x8 Hoover dam lol






I clamped it up first then put a few screws around the lip while my dad helped keep it tight. Then I cut the screw tips and ground them flush from the inside. Its holding pretty good.

Should I lay up the skin a let it cure then bed  the core or should I have my core already laminated together and put it in while the skin is still tacky? To better phrase my question...Do the skin and bed the core, clamp it all together OR Do them separate?

[RickK]

Now you're cooking
The transom will be nice and flat when you're finished.  I would lam the 3 layers of 1708 to the form and let them harden. Then start working on the core and trowel thickened resin onto the new skin and clamp the core in.
You can refrigerate the resin and it'll give you some more pot life.  Did you get the scale to weigh the glass?

[flatbackpaul]

She's coming along nicely - keep up the good work.  I still expect a fishing trip when the boat is done.   I will even buy the gas.

Paul

[HawgLeg]

Roger that Paul!

[HawgLeg]

Anybody got any leads on the best priced Corecell for my stringers? looking for 1" 5 #.



Rick,
Remember us talking about the 1" PVC for the drain plug? My drain plug hole is a about a 1/4"+ high. Can you see that in the pics or do I need to take a close up?

[RickK]

I can see it.  You're going to cover that up when you lam the inside. Of course you can cut it back out and your goal is to keep the bottom of the hull (inside) at that level. After you lam the new inside skin of the transom and then add the coring and then the lam in front of that, the hole will still be at 1/4" but the hull in front of that will be higher and water will pool up in front of the high spot.  So you need to figure out a way to allow water to drain all the way out of your boat without pooling up in front of the laminations. 

My idea of using pvc pipe will keep the bottom of the drain hole where it currently is. Does that make sense?  If not maybe I can draw something up to illustrate this.

[HawgLeg]

Yea makes sense just not sure at which step the PVC needs to be set in the hole. Are you saying I should lay up the outer skin, let it harden, then drill the drain hole back out, glue the PVC in, cut a notch in the core, set the core, fill in the notch around the PVC with putty, then lay up the inner skin? Then what? Grind it back till the hole in the PVC is flush with the inner skin? Trying to picture all this in my head but maybe need a diagram or something.

[RickK]

I think you're on target. I don't think you'll get the PVC ground back square but at an angle - grinding the top of it at an angle to the hull but not too far out in front or you'll have water pool behind the pipe opening.
just remember that the more layers of cloth/glass you lay, the more it will build up in front of the transom core.  6 layers of 1708 is about 1/4" and water will pool in front of that 1/4".  I bet my build up was 1/4-3/8", so with out a means of lowering that build up, I will always have water pooling in front of my drain.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Anybody got any leads on the best priced Corecell for my stringers? looking for 1" 5 #.

Had to google where Macon was haha.      A couple hours from the coast it looks like?  I bet if you called some boatbuilders out near the coast and were willing to drive theyd probably sell you some at cost if ya tell em what you've got going on and how far youre traveling...    Much rather spend a lil in fuel than pay retail AND shipping!