87 222 Rebuild

[Capt. Bob]

 

[wingnut]

Looking great! I thought I had the award for “Most Rotted Transom” but yours definitely takes the cake... mine didn’t have any pet maggots living inside!

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Nice! Lots of good progress

[RickK]

Wow, that's a lot of progress. Thanks for taking the time to chronicle it with pictures. I remember the hours it took to take the pics, upload them and then document the rebuild.

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

Keeping the pictures flowing as much as I can:

the repair of the damaged areas with the molds removed. Nice and smooth Definitely will help in sanding & fairing later on





its been a bit chilly lately so I had to warm up my 2 part foam with some real hot water. A heads up for anyone working in the cold, the manufacturer says the expansion rate is half at 60 degrees vs 80 degrees F. By warming it up and using a heater near the pour area, you get a much better expansion.   



getting the rigging tube dry fitted. I have a 3" section running to transom and a 2" section runs to the bow & connects into an elbow at the center.









The excess will be cut away flush and the stringer tops will be glassed down, a few holes to fill the finished stringers and tabbed shut. I am going to go with a flat deck all the way as my casting deck is too banged up. I also like the idea of no level changes and with the deck being raised already, a casting deck raised even higher doesn't seem best. The best tool to mix the foam is a paddle mixer in the drill, doing it by hand you just dont have enough time if pouring a large quantity (1QT + ). As you can see the mixer just becomes one solid foam block 

[BradC]

Great stuff. Question: Are you embedding your rigging tube within the stringer? What if you need to access at some point in the future? Is the thought process that the deck will have to be lifted so doing the stringer as well is not that much of a bigger deal? Tx

[RickK]

Since the pics are from the past, we can't guess what his thought process is. I think I would have run 2 tubes, one in each stringer (you can't have too many routes). We have to wait to hear his plan.

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

BradC, I liked the idea of it being hidden within the stringer so its out of the way, Kind of like pouring the slab for a house. The good thing is, If I need to have more rigging space, I can always run an auxiliary tube below the deck on the outer side of the stringer.

RickK, My thought process was to have them completely out of the way. I can't see any need to have it accessible, 3" PVC is some tough stuff. Even if i configured it like the original factory design (where the tubes run diagonally across the stringers & towards the gunnels), I would still be running into the same problem dealing with foam encasement/ cutting thru bulkheads. I was thinking originally running one in each stringer. My plan was run major wires & controls thru the encased tube and if i ultimately need more space, I can tab in an additional 3" tube to the underside of the deck. 

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

Pulling molds from the foam with a nice smooth surface ready for glass





started trimming the excess for the extension pieces to lay correctly





dry fitting the extensions




You can see the level on each side dips off, after some shimming and digging a small groove where it sat high, I got it laying level.




Both extension pieces flush with each other


when i was checking the level across the stringers, it was off a good amount which had me worried. I suspected it was the whole boat not sitting level on the blocks. Turns out that was the case.  Tested across the beam & Used some measurements to confirm that was the case. On I went with tabbing the extensions down. 

[RickK]

Quick question for you. You mentioned you're probably going to hang a 200hp on the back. Do you know what kind of controls you're going to be using? If you're going to be running with conventional cabled controls, the control cables need quite a big pipe to make a turn in, especially not a 90.  I used 45s and barely got them to turn in that.




Also, what kind of steering are you going to be using?

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

Rick, I was planning on the 4 stroke Suzuki. I know they are all fly by wire (so i think).

for the steering, the usual hydraulic sea-star unit.

[mshugg]

Rick, I was planning on the 4 stroke Suzuki. I know they are all fly by wire (so i think).

for the steering, the usual hydraulic sea-star unit.

I think you can get either cable or  FBW on the 150, 175 and 200 Four Stroke.  It is a significant up charge for FBW though.  You can buy the gray PVC conduit elbows for easier sweeps to pull cable.

[RickK]

Rick, I was planning on the 4 stroke Suzuki. I know they are all fly by wire (so i think).

for the steering, the usual hydraulic sea-star unit.

Ok, good. So you should be ok.

[Hooked-On-Shenanigans]

Stringer tops are done. I'm ready to begin dry fit of the deck. This is where the project is sitting as of now. I was going to start looking for a fuel tank and tower to determine where I need the deck supports to go. Bulkheads are measured and ready to be cut but i am not going further till i find a tank. My tank that came with the boat was surprisingly in good shape so i can pressure test that and see ifs sealed. If it clears, I may throw a coat of coal tar on it and throw it back in (don't see a reason not to unless I can find a good deal on a poly tank or at a surplus). I will need to determine how far forward i need to move it, since most move them forward a bit for better weight distribution. 


4 layers of 1808 tabbed 8, 10, 12" overlap both sides of stringers.

[RickK]

Looking good. If you find a poly tank that you think is right, remember that you need to allow 1-2% growth in all directions once gas fills the tank. It grows and does not shrink back.