'85 200 CCP Refresh

[Wayne'sWorld]

I'm getting to know this boat since I bought it three months ago.  One of the batteries was dead so I took them both out to have a closer look.  First off, I didn't like the set-up of the batteries.  Their located here in the port transom storage well.


The batteries were sitting loose on this board.

And this is what it looked like under the plywood.


The limber hole through the port stringer was clogged and water was up to the deck on this port side of the stringer.  The clog was caused by rotted plywood (where did that come from?).  Two things caught my eye right away.  The first was rotted and missing wood that the transponder was mounted on.


And the second was the botched relocation of the scupper.  


It looks like someone was going to relocate the port scupper higher up than the original location, then decided to run it out the transom.  Take a look at how they rigged this from the outside and the repair made to the port hull.



My first question/request to the group is how can I have a cleaner set-up of the batteries that would provide ease of service and fairly easy access to the bilge on this port side of the stringer?  I understand that the batteries should be mounted close to the starter, but can I put them under the center console?  What are the pros and cons.  Any past posts I can look at?

My next problem was seating.  My father-in-law cannot stand for long periods so I found a great leaning post.  Before mounting it, I thought I'd take a look at the fuel tank even though I didn't smell fuel in the bilge.  The fuel tank well and deck hatch looked a lot like others I've seen on the site, so I cleaned things up with a bucket and brush, trimmed off the old sealant from the deck hatch seeing some separation of the matting underneath and figuring I'd deal with this in the fall.  Unclogged the drainage holes in the fuel well and sealed everything up with silicone caulk.  Took it out on Friday and the fuel smell was bad.  Pulled the tank cover today and here's what I found.
 

Not looking bad but remember, I cleaned things up once already.  Here's a closer look under the blue fuel line to the motor.


I think I've got problems.  I'd like to get a new tank to put this issue to rest, but I'm wondering if this can be repaired.  The tank was made at a local boatbuilder in Egg Harbor City, NJ and has a 2001 manufacture date.  I bet the bottom of the tank is solid since I'm smelling vapors but there's no standing fuel in the well.  I've read what others on this site have said about materials to use when mounting a new tank and looking for something to put under/around the straps that hold the tank in place.  I do not know what material the fuel line covering is made of, but I would guess that the line, sitting on top of the tank with the addition of the crusty salt that was covering the top of the tank caused these holes, about 1/8" in diameter.  This situation seems to be testimony to the truth of what others speak of when choosing the right material for under the straps.  And these are the photos to prove it out.  Now what to do?  Can the tank be repaired for the season?  And how heavy is the tank empty?  I'm thinking of taking the boat to my brother's garage over an hour away just to use his car lift to get the tank out!

Any comments/question/advice would be welcomed.  I could use the feedback.  I'm fairly new to the site.  Thanks!

[Capt. Bob]

WW,
1. I'd relocate the batteries under the center console. You'll better balance the boat (IMHO).
2. I'd replace the fuel tank. You're into it this far, now is the time. While a new tank is expensive, peace of mind is priceless. The tank itself is not very heavy. You won't need a hoist to lift it out. A second person will make handling easier but is not essential. That assumes that you have the fuel removed first.
3. I'd put the deck drain back the way it was from the factory.

Remember, these are just suggestions but I've found that they've worked real well for me.

Gook luck and keep us posted.

[Marcq]

I bet these are drill holes, do you have matching holes on the deck ?

Marc..

[Capt. Bob]

I bet these are drill holes, do you have matching holes on the deck ?

Marc..

Hey,
I never thought of that. :o

[GoneFission]

The tank is not that heavy when empty, but I agree that I would not try to repair a '85 vintage tank.  

Here's my tank replacement thread:

http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... light=tank

[Wayne'sWorld]

Thanks for the replies everyone.  The tank was manufactured in 2001, GF, and I want to say I appreciate your tank replacement post.  I've referred to it more than once.  It's good to know that two people can lift the empty tank and I'm wondering if I can do the removal and install without disconnecting everything under the console.
As to the tank's holes, I do not think they are drill holes.  At one time, the boat had the original pedestal seats, they were removed and the leaning post is a double pedestal type that nearly matches the hole pattern of the original seat base.  What's more, the holes are almost in the center of the tank and remember that the holes were under the fuel line.  Someone would have had to drill through the fuel line to hit the tank.  Also, if you were drilling through the tank hatch you would probably need a 8" bit to hit the tank.  The pictures don't show it, Marc, but the holes are irregular in circumference.  Thank you for replying.  It means a great deal to me.
Does anyone know the factory location of the batteries on this year CCP?  It almost looks as if a single battery was made to sit on a tray which was mounted to the stringer   Course now that I typed that it doesn't seem to make sense.  As to the tank, I'm going to start pricing.  Might be worth a road trip to Farmingdale, NY.

[Capt. Bob]

WW,
 Not sure on your 85 200 but my 84 (222) had the batteries located on each side of the motor well in white boxes.

[Wayne'sWorld]

Were those white boxes mounted to the stringers or were they a drop-in type of box that sat high up on the transom?  I've got the drop in boxes as you can see in the first picture.  You remove them to get to the batteries.  Have you relocated your batteries to under the console?  I'm draining the tank tomorrow and I'm going to pull it from the well.  We'll see if there are any other areas that have holes.

Anyone have a thread on pros and cons to the transponder postion such as through the bottom of the hull or through the transom?

[Capt. Bob]

Were those white boxes mounted to the stringers or were they a drop-in type of box that sat high up on the transom?  I've got the drop in boxes as you can see in the first picture.  You remove them to get to the batteries.  Have you relocated your batteries to under the console?  I'm draining the tank tomorrow and I'm going to pull it from the well.  We'll see if there are any other areas that have holes.

Anyone have a thread on pros and cons to the transponder postion such as through the bottom of the hull or through the transom?

WW,
They were the ones mounted up on the deck by the transom.
Yes, I have relocated my batteries under the console. There was (is) plenty of space under the 222's console for this move. It takes a good deal of weight and re-positions it closer to center. I have a full length bracket on my boat so the motor weight is positioned an additional 26" aft. I wanted to try and balance the boat a little better.

Can't help ya on the transponder. Mine have always been mounted on the transom but if memory serves,  the through hull mount is the more accurate method if done correctly.

Good luck.

[DOCREED]

[Can't help ya on the transponder. Mine have always been mounted on the transom but if memory serves, the through hull mount is the more accurate method if done correctly.]

1) Inboards must use thru hull transducers or shoot thru the hull transducers.  Airmar's new angled element transducers eliminate the need for a fairing block and are availble in 12 degree and 20 degree internal angles.
Here is a link to some product info on the Airmar ducer.

http://www.airmartechnology.com/airmar2 ... &PageNo=67

2) Outboards may use thru hull or transom mounted transducers.

TRANSDUCER PLACEMETN IS CRITCAL FOR PROPER OPERATION
3)Thru hull tranducers must be mounted on a fairing block to level the face of the transducer.  It must be mounted in the aft 25% of the hull that is in the water at cruise speed.  It cannot be mounted aft of a thru hull or a running strake.

4) YOU MUST USE CAUTION NOT TO MOUNT THE THRU HULL WHERE A LIFT OR TRAILER BUNK WILL DAMAGE IT.

5) Transom mounted transducers have the same electronics imbedded as the thru hull does. (600 watt models)  It must be mounted so that it is not behind a thruhull or running strake, as well.
6) It should be mounted away from the engine and the tabs, if present.

See the diagram below..     (I'm no artist but you will get the idea)

Smooth waterflow over the transducer with no air bubbles will allow the transducer to have a good lock on the bottom at crusing speeds.
If the face of the transducer is angled up as in the diagram below, induced turbulance will cause the sounder to blank out at speeds above idle.

thats my story and I'm sticking to it.........

[Wayne'sWorld]

4) YOU MUST USE CAUTION NOT TO MOUNT THE THRU HULL WHERE A LIFT OR TRAILER BUNK WILL DAMAGE IT.

And this is exactly the problem, Doc.  Previous owner had it mounted or mounted it himself that the transducer lines up perfectly with the rear- most roller.  When I winch the boat tight to the bow stop, the transponder sits right on the roller.  The boat can be nudged enough to one side so that it doesn't sit on the 'ponder but it's difficult to determine the correct lineup when the boat is in the water without going snorkeling (Jersey coast water aint that clear no matter how far away you are from NYC).  I'm going to have to noodle some way of lining up the boat onto the trailer without moving the transponder.  Don't want to buy a new one for the transom.

I think I once saw a post here that showed a sharp fairing block set up and install.  Someone glassed a piece of wood and did a great job of mounting.  If the author is lurking, would you care to claim the post and provide a link?

[DOCREED]

If you replace the existing fairing block and transducer with the new angled element you wont need a fairing block.  They are several hundred dollars, however.

The least expensive way to do this is to buy  a transom mounted transducer.  They are around $100

[GoneFission]

Why not put it on the inside of the hull and shoot through the hull?  It works really well when done right.  The only problem is if your transducer also gives temperature - won't get that with an inside hull mount.  

Here are some links to check out:

http://yachtvalhalla.net/articles/trans ... ducer.html  

http://store.humminbird.com/download.ep ... P_6_16.pdf  

http://www.tomneale.com/tips13.html  

Good luck!

[Wayne'sWorld]

I'm digesting what GF and Doc wrote.  In the meantime, here are shots of the fuel tank well...

...and the tank I removed today with my brother.  We siphoned out enough gas to fill a Chevy Suburban, a Mercury Villager, two lawnmowers, a power washer, a logsplitter, a roto-tiller and two 2 1/2 gallons cans.  I think there's about 5-6 gallons left in the tank that I will siphon out in a day or two.  

I did'nt get a good angle shot of the tank, but your looking at it from the top. Fore is the left side of the photo to aft, the right side.  Find the faintly circled hole at the top mid-left of the photo then run your sight along a fairly straight line to the corner of the tank you see in the photo.  You'll see a line of 5-6 holes and pit marks.  This is where the fuel line from the tank to the motor laid across the tank sitting in a bed of crusty salt.  This was not the original tank.  Tank was manufactured in 2001, 74 gallons (don't think this was the original size) of .125" galvanized aluminum as per the manufacturers stamped plate on the top of the tank.

I'll assume this post is of interest to folks until someone tells me you've seen it all before.  Just let me know when to turn it off.  I won't be offended.

[Capt. Bob]

WW,
You're right about some of us seeing this problem before but like yourself, a good number of members have inquired about their tanks. (in the short time that I've been around). The master re-builders all have been down this road and IMHO it never hurts to re-enforce the idea of a leaking tank. Besides, when it comes to Aquaporn, we can never get enough

Good luck and keep us posted.