Mounting downrigger on CCP

[jdupree]

I am trying to find a place to mount my downrigger.  I have shown a picture to show what my gunwalls look like.  I would assume most CCP'S have this type of cap on the gunwall.  It is held in place by 10 screws and it lifts right off.  It is basically a fiberglass shell with a wood insert.

The gunwall is not wide enough to mount a base for a downrigger.  Ok, well I thought about going with a gimble mount in the rodholder.  If I went this route at a minimum I would have to find a way to re-inforce the rod holder since it is just screwed in.  If I do this, are these gunwalls stong enough to support a downrigger   They seem awful flexible.

Just wanted some opinions and to see where if any someone has downriggers mounted to their CCP.  Sorry, I forgot how to include the picture in with the post but you can click on the link to see it.  Thanks.

     

[RickK]

There you go John.  You were close - when you got to the picture that you wanted to show, look below the picture and find the UBBCode line and copy/paste that into your topic.

Good topic because I want to add outriggers to my 230 too.  I don't want to add them to the side of the helm because they'll get in the way when I try to go forward.  I have the same inserts, more or less, in the back of my boat too.

I want to use the collapsible type outrigger and I don't think they weigh a whole bunch and are only there to run the line through the clip on the end to 1)get the line away from boat and 2) allow the automatic hook set of a loose line that is all of a sudden taken taunt with the rod.
Good topic (for me anyway).

[jdupree]

Thanks Rick, I figured you would help me out

[GoneFission]

I've got them on my CCP - factory mounted - but I updated poles, lines, tubes, and release clips.  Most people make the mistake of mounting them too far aft - they need to be more forward than you think!  In this picture, Ginger the boat dog is pointing to the base/mount with her nose - also I have replaced the cleat forward of the outrigger base with a stainless retractable one that helps keep lines from fouling:

 

You want the outriggers far enough forward to allow the poles to flex back a bit, and still get rods in the rod holders.  You will probably want to add 2 more rod holders for the downrigger rods.  You can then run 2 lines off the stern poles, and 2 more lines off the outriggers.  I have trolled 6 lines off the back, but usually find 4-5 is easier and less prone to fouling.  

I use 15 foot telescoping fiberglass outriggers with nylon cord, adjustable snap release clips, and glass rings with shock cord.  I like glass rings better than pulleys, because you can run clips and swivels through them.  I am in Canada now, but will try to take some pix of the whole setup when I get home.  

Here is a picture and web site that shows how to set up the outriggers:  

 

http://www.tigressoutriggers.com/images ... gerset.pdf  

You need bases, angle tubes, poles, and rigging.  You can spend a little or a lot on outriggers, but there are some pretty good kits on eBay going cheap - check this one out - the clips are junk, but you can get better ones for $20 and still save a ton:  

http://cgi.ebay.com/OUTRIGGER-COMPLETE- ... dZViewItem  

Hope this helps - see ya on the water!

[jdupree]

That is some good info on the outriggers as well.  That will be my next project    As far as a downrigger goes, I have a Cannon easy troll that I picked up off e-bay at a great price and also the swivel base that goes with it.  Need to know where I could possibly mount this thing at

The only way I can see to do this is to somehow re-inforce the rod holder in the gunwale and go with a gimble mount

[GoneFission]

Sorry John, I thought you were talking about outriggers, not downriggers.... duh  

Anyway, I would mount downriggers on the cover plate toward the stern.  You may want to take that cover plate off and put a layer of glass on the back side.  Mine had just a layer of plywood bonded to the underside; a layer or two of glass would make it much more secure and durable.  

Sorry about the misunderstanding - I guess I mixed up down and out...  

See ya on the water!

[RickK]

GF, your confusion was probably my fault - I read outriggers or at least I wanted to read outriggers Sorry jdupree for the screw up AND the derail.  I'm not ready for downriggers.  One type of rigger at a time
Anyway, that was good info.  I've heard mixed reports on the fiberglass ones as being like fishing poles and not stiff enough.  Maybe it is the brand?  Do you think those outriggers would handle small planers without bending too much?

[jdupree]

No need to apologize   The picture that Rick help me post was from before I bought the boat.  GF, I don't have the white hatch at the back anymore.  It was not stock and used as a cutting board so it looked really great

I must have a problem because when most guys are trying to get rid of teak, I found the original hatches for my boat and put them on.  To me it looks much better than what I had.  The teak hatch is in great shape and appears to be very strong.  I guess my only other alternative is to mount the downrigger base to the teak hatch.  You think that would work

[John Jones]

My '78 CCP does not have the removable gunwale caps.  It is all one piece cap with the teak screwed to it so I can't give any advice there.  My downrigger bases are mounted a couple of inches forward of the stern light.  If you have any access under the cap, just mount as big of a backing plate as you can and go for it.  It's not THAT much load unless you snag a ball on something.  

On the Key West 1900 I had I just used the rodholder bases.  I had no complaints with them.  I worried that they could bounce out so I just made a leash using 200# mono and crimps and looped the leash on a cleat when they were on the boat.  I still use the leash with the permanent bases.  A couple of years ago I was fishing with a friend out of Stuart, FL and sometime during the run out we lost a downrigger. I guess he forgot to tighten the big bolt.

Rick,
I have outriggers pretty much like Gone Fisson if you want to come by and see them some time.  My bases are mounted on the t-top but it will be the same principle.  The bases were already there and I got everything else on sale at either West or BoatUS.  I see them on sale a couple of times a year.

[jdupree]

My '78 CCP does not have the removable gunwale caps.  It is all one piece cap with the teak screwed to it so I can't give any advice there.  My downrigger bases are mounted a couple of inches forward of the stern light.  If you have any access under the cap, just mount as big of a backing plate as you can and go for it.  It's not THAT much load unless you snag a ball on something.  

On the Key West 1900 I had I just used the rodholder bases.  I had no complaints with them.  I worried that they could bounce out so I just made a leash using 200# mono and crimps and looped the leash on a cleat when they were on the boat.  I still use the leash with the permanent bases.  A couple of years ago I was fishing with a friend out of Stuart, FL and sometime during the run out we lost a downrigger. I guess he forgot to tighten the big bolt.

Rick,
I have outriggers pretty much like Gone Fisson if you want to come by and see them some time.  My bases are mounted on the t-top but it will be the same principle.  The bases were already there and I got everything else on sale at either West or BoatUS.  I see them on sale a couple of times a year.

John,

The problem I have is that my gunwale cap is not wide enough for the downrigger base.  So that leaves me with going with the gimble mount or mounting the base to the teak hatch at the rear.  I just don't know how well the gimble mount work in the rod holder and if it will put too much stress on the gunwale cap

[Bushleaguer]

I mounted a downrigger board on my 22-2.  I made aluminum stantions to match the angle on the top of the gunwale, then made a board that spread between the gunnels.  I have sockets to mount four down riggers.  I know that some people don't want to lose the room and think that a board will mess with the functionality and layout of your rig.  I thought the same thing, so I made my board removeable.  The funny thing is that after I got the board in place, I liked it.  It serves as sort of a "work table", plus something else to lean / grab on to.  I ended up leaving the board on full time.  

I will take some pics over the weekend if you are interested in seeing the setup.

[jdupree]

Thanks bushleager :)   I am open for any suggestions if you get a chance how about post those pictures.  Thanks,

[Bushleaguer]

jdupree-
I was able to go out in Northeast Ohio's blizzard Saturday and get a few pics of my board install.

Nevermind the winter cover frame in the middle of the board- I didn't take it off for the pics, I just rolled the tarp back to give you an idea of what I did.

The port and starboard stancions are made of Aluminum pipe and plate.  The angle of the lower plate matches the angle of the top of the gunwale to provide a level surface for the mounting of the board.  The board itself is 3/4" marine plywood that is primed and painted with Petit easyepoxy.

There are sockets mounted in the board for four downriggers, two straight off the transom, and two at ninety degrees port and starboard.  The two rod holders in the pics are auxillary for holding the gaff and when rigging up the baits.  The functional rod holders for fishing use are mounted right with the downriggers.

As I said, this board system was kind of a trial, and I ended up leaving it on the boat because it didn't interfere with other fishing operations, and I like having it there for a work table / leaning post.

Here's what the setup looks like in a  blizzard!!  When we get some decent weather here, I can take more and better pics.

Hope this helps.

 

[RickK]

Man that looks bad :(  
Not the setup, which looks quite ingenious, the blizzard. I'm still in Melbourne, Australia and it was 99F here yesterday.  One more week to go.

[Bushleaguer]

Wow- 99 degrees.  Maybe in 4 or 5 months here......

We ended up with 24" of snow here.  My back will feel the effects of all that shoveling for weeks to come.