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Author Topic: Inboard or outboard  (Read 1547 times)

January 31, 2005, 08:08:18 PM
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captin.kid

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Inboard or outboard
« on: January 31, 2005, 08:08:18 PM »
If you could start a project would you go with an inboard or outboard?

January 31, 2005, 08:47:59 PM
Reply #1

Wilson

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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2005, 08:47:59 PM »
Outboards are all I have had so I lean toward them.  

I like inboards for larger boats, but that  being said have you seen Old Schools post http://www.classicaquasport.com/viewtopic.php?t=21?  I love it.
Wilson Ayala
Tampa, FL

February 01, 2005, 11:01:15 AM
Reply #2

captin.kid

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« Reply #2 on: February 01, 2005, 11:01:15 AM »
I saw his boat and that is what put the question in my head. I know of an old Aquasport 22' that has an inboard that I could get cheep but only know outboards my self so just do not know if this is a project that I want to get into.. Any ideas???

February 01, 2005, 11:31:26 AM
Reply #3

Radioshop

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« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2005, 11:31:26 AM »
No question, I would do the inboard project.  You have much less expensive re-power and, typically less fuel consumption.  The major differences are; transmission, rudder, stuffing box and, propellor shaft/strut.  Yes the engine takes up the enitre console and, you have more draft, but the bulk of the weight is now in the middle of the boat versus one end.  An inboard does ride better.  Parts are less expensive for the motor and, any automotive machine shop can re-build one.  Also, if you have a GM bellhousing on your transmission, a Peninsular 6.5 diesel is an option.  A 22.2 diesel?  Wow, it just couldn't get any cooler.  The only thing I don't like is how Aquasport did the fuel tank on the inboards, it's basically a big aluminum box up against the transom.  It seems like there's got to be a better way to do it.
1973 22.2 Osprey - Sand Bar II
Miamuh, Florida

February 22, 2005, 03:24:48 PM
Reply #4

scott_gunn

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« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2005, 03:24:48 PM »
If the added draft is not a problem, then the inboard would be the way to go probably.

February 22, 2005, 03:49:03 PM
Reply #5

Wilson

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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2005, 03:49:03 PM »
I agree.  The added draft is the biggest drawback, not to mention the lack of tilt/trim.
Wilson Ayala
Tampa, FL

April 02, 2005, 05:21:25 PM
Reply #6

snapper whipper

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« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2005, 05:21:25 PM »
wait till ya try and back it up hey hey but if you plan your moves you can do it :lol:
snapper whipper
17 aquasport osprey
90 johnson
1 fathom above sea level

May 12, 2016, 11:20:12 AM
Reply #7

jaythefisherman

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Re: Inboard or outboard
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2016, 11:20:12 AM »
added draft brings up a question, exactly how much do they draft with an v8 small block , not a diesel?

January 30, 2019, 01:46:09 PM
Reply #8

Larryowen

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Re: inboard vs outboard
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2019, 01:46:09 PM »
No question, I would do the inboard project.  You have much less expensive re-power and, typically less fuel consumption.  The major differences are; transmission, rudder, stuffing box and, propellor shaft/strut.  Yes the engine takes up the enitre console and, you have more draft, but the bulk of the weight is now in the middle of the boat versus one end.  An inboard does ride better.  Parts are less expensive for the motor and, any automotive machine shop can re-build one.  Also, if you have a GM bellhousing on your transmission, a Peninsular 6.5 diesel is an option.  A 22.2 diesel?  Wow, it just couldn't get any cooler.  The only thing I don't like is how Aquasport did the fuel tank on the inboards, it's basically a big aluminum box up against the transom.  It seems like there's got to be a better way to do it.

Hey people, I have a 1977 222 INBOARD and wouldn't change it for anything! It has a Chevy 350-5.7L and Velvet drive 01:1 ratio. I am going to re-power it using a new long block ... perhaps 300-325 HP ($2,300!). As long as I get one that is in concert with the current engine (block model is same; produced between 1969-1980). I need more speed, and the upgrade will require a different prop size and pitch.

My question is, what is the speed potential difference between an outboard and an inboard, given that they are the same HP rating.

January 30, 2019, 03:23:06 PM
Reply #9

theFunsmith

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Re: Inboard or outboard
« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2019, 03:23:06 PM »
It came down to crab ropes for me. I run an amateur crew at times, and stuff happens. A rope around a prop is much less of an ordeal on an outboard.

January 31, 2019, 04:25:40 PM
Reply #10

Larryowen

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Re: Inboard or outboard
« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2019, 04:25:40 PM »
It came down to crab ropes for me. I run an amateur crew at times, and stuff happens. A rope around a prop is much less of an ordeal on an outboard.

Amen! I dragged a crab trap a hundred yards once, wondering why I was slowing down. Speaking of crabs, I like your avatar. Here on FL west coast we catch blue crabs at will. As a boy, I caught 18 using the same chicken neck. Sometimes, two at a time. Good eatin'.

February 06, 2019, 11:18:10 PM
Reply #11

Larryowen

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Re: Inboard or outboard
« Reply #11 on: February 06, 2019, 11:18:10 PM »
I have ordered a 350/5.7L long block from Summit -- Vortec heads, 1-piece main seal, roller rockers, 2-bolt main -- 373 HP / 400# torque.

Please, here are two neophyte questions:
Concerning the intake manifold for the (Vortec) heads: does it have to be marine designated? Could I choose an Edelbrock standard performance spread bore manifold and use brass or stainless fasteners ... and even paint it to curb corrosion?

Also, what are the thoughts about aluminum vs cast iron. thanks!

February 10, 2019, 01:08:58 PM
Reply #12

GoneFission

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Re: Inboard or outboard
« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2019, 01:08:58 PM »
Alloy intakes work better and are much lighter than cast iron.  But your cooling system makes a big difference.  Edlebrock makes a marine manifold with brass inserts.  https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-rpm-vortec-marine-intake-manifold-2516.html 

But you don't need it if you have fresh water cooling, since the only water that touches the manifold is fresh/antifreeze coolant.  If you are running raw water cooling, then you need the marine manifold, brass freeze plugs, marine water pump, and a couple more things.  You also probably want to go with a 145 degree thermostat to prevent salt buildup in the engine if you have raw water cooling. 

If you are buying a crate engine for raw water cooling, it makes sense to buy a marine engine.  It will have the features you need instead of having to backfit.  For salt water use, fresh water/closed cooling systems with no salt water in the block make sense.  For fresh water use - you can go with raw water cooling and the marine additions to the engine. 

Hope this helps!
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


 

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