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Author Topic: question about bilge pumps in a 2 battery setup  (Read 1386 times)

May 24, 2014, 08:05:39 AM
Reply #15

seabob4

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Re: question about bilge pumps in a 2 battery setup
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2014, 08:05:39 AM »
Phil, if you are going to replace your fuse holders with like parts, get the Blue Seas ones...http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=1334713  They stand up better to corrosion than the cheapies like Sea Dog or Marpac.  Apply some dielectric grease to the mating surfaces of the cap and body before assembling them...


Corner of 520 and A1A...

May 26, 2014, 12:48:26 PM
Reply #16

kaptainkoz

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Re: question about bilge pumps in a 2 battery setup
« Reply #16 on: May 26, 2014, 12:48:26 PM »
Circuit breakers are convenient but I found them to be bulky, expensive and a bit challenging to expand on. When I designed my electrical system, I wanted every fuse possible in one location. I didn't want any inline fuses or exposed fuses. I didn't want any fuse holders mounted to the console at the mercy of the weather or taking up space unnecessarily. Truth be told, we usually,more than likely will not have to changes fuses and if we do it's more of a sign that a problem has arisen.

So with that said I though of a car or a house with one central fuse box and went with the blue seas 12 slot blade type fuse panel with the negative bar. I cut out any in line fuses that came with existing accessories and ran everything through that box as the main source of power. 12 slots not enough? They make a six slot which can be easily branched off of the first box to add as many circuits as you need.
Murphy's law will most likely have you blow a fuse in a 5 ft chop and not trailered in your driveway. I wanted a quick, easy and central power management. As a result my helm and dash are much cleaner as I do not have to leave room for fuse holders, and if I blow a fuse I have one central location with all the same fuse type to find the blown fuse.  Having the same fuses is a plus as well so you don't end up with a mixture of blade and glass fuses to stock. Glass fuses could be tough to see the rating as its a tiny stamp on the metal casing.



Here is my panel. Yes, the wires are far from a zip tied perfect road map of wires. Sure that looks great but its a real pain to cut off 75 zip ties in a super cramped space to change or add a wire. Im not a fan. Once again to each their own but I believe in quick access and simplicity. (note: there is one visible blade type inline fuse visible but that has been eliminated as well). All crimp ends were stripped of their plastic crimp guard, crimped, then soldiered, then covered with heat shrink tubing. I don't trust the crimps by themselves.





Heres my console. simplicity. Sure, there are 6 switches on one panel but there are more than 6 items switched as most of them are on-off-on switches. The lower two switches are the trim. I don't have tach mounted either. I have left plug ends under the dash which I can plug in a tach and use it to diagnose my motor. Once its all set up I get my MPH from my GPS. I have temp, fuel, volts and battery. I don't have a tilt gauge and I can look at the outboard to see the tilt. Simple and clean.
1979 246 CCP project boat in development, Jones Inlet-Long Island NY
Steven Kozlowski. Captainkoz@aol.com

 

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