1987 222 rebuild

[brad329]

Hello everyone new here this is my 1st post. I live in Parrish fl. in manatee county i have a 1987 222 picked it up about two weeks ago will be starting the rebuild tomorrow will post lots of pic along the way any tips and ideas will be great i have looked at alot of rebuilds on here and cant wait to get started .

plans.
.full coosa transom with a crown and baitwell built in to the center 
.reinforce the stringers and replace foam
.new floor. looking for recommendations on core materials 
.repair holes in cap and replace core
. refinish outside and bottom undecided on paint or gelcoat any advice on this?
 
i do plan on having a tower as well looking at repowering it with a new suzuki 200hp and porta bracket

Question
.with a full transom and portabracket do i still get a 25in shaft on the outboard ?
. whats a good floor coring materials ? looking at coosa but its so expensive i dont want to use wood .
.whats the best way to reinforce the floor to mount the tower to it ?

[mshugg]

Congratulations on your Osprey.  I’m looking forward to following your rebuild.  I’ll take a stab at your questions.

.with a full transom and portabracket do i still get a 25in shaft on the outboard ?

Others on this site have installed Porta-Brackets.  I’ll leave this one to them.

. whats a good floor coring materials ? looking at coosa but its so expensive i dont want to use wold

For the deck most people go with a lighter weight, less expensive core like NidaCore or similar honeycomb products or foam like divynecell or Airex.  The exact brand of product is less important than finding a local source. Since freight to ship panels can be nearly as much as the core.
 .
.whats the best way to reinforce the floor to mount the tower to it ?

I laminated tiles of solid glass and laminated them into my deck. 







I can’t take credit for the idea.  Dirtwheelsfl did it on his 22-2 rebuild.  Here’s a link to it:

https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13425.45

If you can plan for your tower legs to hit the stringers then you could add similar reenforcement to your stringers.  Others glass in aluminum plates or try to locate e the tower wher it can be through-bolted.  With foam or NidaCore, you’ll still want to provide reinforcement so the core doesn’t crush.

[brad329]

mshugg thank you for your advice
 on the fiber glass tiles did you cut a hole in the core and then glass it in as a core or is it just glassed to the bottom of the deck?  looks like you cut a hole in the pic

[RickK]

Welcome aboard Brad - look forward to your rebuild and helping you figure out this stuff.

[brad329]

thank you rickk 

[mshugg]

mshugg thank you for your advice
 on the fiber glass tiles did you cut a hole in the core and then glass it in as a core or is it just glassed to the bottom of the deck?  looks like you cut a hole in the pic

Yes, I used a router to remove the bottom skin and core.  Then the pad was glued in with thickened resin and a bit more 1708.  I think I put 2 or three layers of 1708 on the bottom to tie everything together.  I put it in from the bottom because my top skin was thicker and because i wouldn’t need to fair it later.

Foam and NidaCore make great cores, but they offer little resistance to spot compression.  Once the skin compresses, breaks or separates from the core, bad things happen.  With the stresses of a tower or even a t top, you don’t want to take chances. 

Coosa and similar glass reinforced panels offer better compression strength that’s why they’re used for transom cores.  Coosa pads would be an option if you were going to through bolt your tower legs.

[brad329]

Mshugg thanks I think I'll do it the same way you did I like that you dont have to   Through  bolt it

[brad329]

well didnt get as much done as i wanted to today i had to put lights in the canopy over the boat so i could work on it after work during the week. I did however get the tank out that had 80 gallons of water in it and also got part of the transom/rear floor removed man my transome was so rotted it was like mulch but thats ok because it wont be so bad to get the wood hahaha

[Tampa Bay Mike]

Nice boat. Looking forward to watching the rebuild.

I went with coosa for the floor on mine but that was mainly because I found a great deal on it. A lot of people use honeycomb. FGCI is close to you and they have good prices on it. You're not too far from me so feel free to shoot me any questions and I'll do my best to help you out.

[brad329]

thanks for the info tampa bay mike im sure ill have some ??? for you.


so tonight i got in about 2 hours of work managed to get the floor cut out the stringers tops are cracked in some spots but they seem to be laminated to the hull pretty good still have to look at them better when i get the foam out of the sides.i plan to glass the insides of them and refoam them anyway.

so whats the pros and cons of raising the deck i want to keep the casting deck i will probably raise it if i raise the deck

   

you can see i could just pull the top off the stringer by hand

[Capt.Joe]

My liner has a small ~2inch “lip” that goes around the bottom of it and that’s where I’m raising my deck to. For me I hope that raising the deck puts the scuppers above the waterline so that I have a true self bailing cockpit. Raising it also allows me to put a larger fuel tank under the floor.

The cons would be, without the liner, getting a straight line along the hull of the boat for a level floor. You’d have to raise the stringers too and that will cost more $$$, depending on how you go about it.

I’m going with 1/2” coosa for the floor. Even though it’s expensive, I’ll have some peace of mind knowing I can screw my hardware through it.

Welcome to the forum!

[RickK]

Here is my $.02 (and what I did).
The first time I did a rebuild of my 170 I did the lip and laid 1/2" fence pickets on the top of the stringers to compensate so the new floor would be supported. That lasted 10 or so years and then I lost my mind after having some rot from under the deck caused failure in the front of the console, and I removed everything from the inside of the hull. I made detailed measurements from 1x2s attached across  the hull before and after the gut and new stringers. I lifted the liner out of the boat - I cut the liner so it kept the side walls.
With a clean slate I was able to raise the floor height 2+" when I made new stringers. I reinforced the entire hull with 1708 and epoxy, installed the new stringers I had made and then glued the new floor down and attaching it to the hull sides. Then I rolled the cap back into the boat and marked where i needed to cut the liner to mate with the new floor height. I then cut the walls of the liner to mate to the floor making sure to leave the necessary gap behind any rod wells in the liner, etc.

[Capt.Joe]

Here is my $.02 (and what I did).
The first time I did a rebuild of my 170 I did the lip and laid 1/2" fence pickets on the top of the stringers to compensate so the new floor would be supported. That lasted 10 or so years and then I lost my mind after having some rot from under the deck caused failure in the front of the console, and I removed everything from the inside of the hull. I made detailed measurements from 1x2s attached across  the hull before and after the gut and new stringers. I lifted the liner out of the boat - I cut the liner so it kept the side walls.
With a clean slate I was able to raise the floor height 2+" when I made new stringers. I reinforced the entire hull with 1708 and epoxy, installed the new stringers I had made and then glued the new floor down and attaching it to the hull sides. Then I rolled the cap back into the boat and marked where i needed to cut the liner to mate with the new floor height. I then cut the walls of the liner to mate to the floor making sure to leave the necessary gap behind any rod wells in the liner, etc.

RickK,
Did the lip give you enough height for the scuppers or should I go another 1” or so? Great information btw

[RickK]

No. My 170 had a little well under the motor where the water gathered to go out 2 scuppers.  I didn't change my transom out during that rebuild so the scupper holes remained at the same spot, so no change. I don't think you'll see much difference with a 1" floor height.

[Capt. Bob]

and then I lost my mind

Well that explains a lot.